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djinn4362 – :
Lets take away the Roja prestige for a moment and take this composition for what it is in the real world. Diaghilev is an old school chypre fragrance with a dirty sex drenched aromatic chewyness that isn’t frequently seen in contemporary perfumery but it is not a masterpiece.
I’ve been testing this for a while off a fresh bottle and upon application it strikes me clearly that the opening few hours is basically Tom Ford’s Moss Breeches (sadly discontinued) and transitions smoothly but not completely over the next few hours into what comes off to me as Frederic Malle’s Musc Ravegeur. That mossy chyrpe still hangs around and blends with that dirty vanilla sex scent that Musc Ravegeur has in it’s full dry down.
Diaghilev never feels unweildy or incompetent-very much in control and behaves like an elegant jaded pro. The projection is mild but the longevity is decent. I get an average of 7 hours where the scent is viable. The push only lasts the first 30 minutes maximum on me before it becomes a “body contact” range scent.
It is frankly: gorgeous and dirty (in a good way) and the quality is plainly evident.
Scent: 8/10 expertly crafted and competent but truly doesn’t break new ground to me and can be approximated *enough* by layering 2-to-1 Moss Breeches (or similar chypre) to Musc Ravegeur and frankly get better performance.
Projection: 3/10 at rest, I get very little push but do catch light whiffs here and there consistently for nearly five hours. It never goes loud and never seems consistent based on temperature or activity or even clothing.
Sillage: 4/10 it does leave a bit of a train when moving and while always soft, tends to do it’s best work while you are in motion.
Longevity: 7/10 while it *does* last longer than seven hours generally, it doesn’t really have much bite after that. The best longevity I got was 12 hours if I was nose-deep-point-blank to the site of application on skin. Faintly at that.
Would I buy a full bottle: a regrettable “no”. Diaghilev is gorgeous and it is memorable but it is not a masterpiece or unique enough to me to justify the $1,000.00+ selling price. A 100ml bottle at $500…that would be a harder choice and I don’t have a clear answer on that but this scent for half the retail price, does incline me to say yes. But I wanted more and I never quite got it.
odb243Bessinepome – :
I felt in love with this Masterpiece and it will be my second Signature Perfume. Such a smart blind … Speechless ……
obuh88 – :
A lovely and sophisticated (and insanely overpriced) aromatic woody chypre. The perfume begins with citrusy notes of bergamot, orange, lime, lemon, and tarragon with slight cumin. It moves to a floral heart comprised of jasmine, rose, black currant, heliotrope, peach, tuberose, violet and ylang-ylang. Finally it settles into a mossy powdery base of patchouli, vanille, cedar, cloves, guaiac, nutmeg, oak moss, sandalwood, ambrette, benzoin, civet, labdanum, leather, musk, peru balsam and styrax. The perfume is very elegant and sophisticated. Unisex (slight masculine leaning) with moderate sillage and projection and very good longevity. Nicely blended, but nowhere near worth what price it retails for. There are many vintage chypres like this on the market for a fraction of the price. Recommended only for those who have monies to spare on extravagant seeming exclusive luxuries. Enjoy!
килер – :
D is a summary of a genre that is long lost in modern perfumary. The epoch of the chypre genre was the animalic fruity floral with mossy leather nuances with some spice.
It opens with herbs and citrus much like the greats of yesteryear then opens up a mossy leathery heart with cumin, and fruit. The animalic ending makes this dirty and sexy..like you are wearing contraband or something that the IFRA would have a heart attack over.
This is made for a vintage enthusiasts or a well educated nose. This has substance. I find it closer to Femme than Mitsy.
It reminds us how great perfumary used to be.
zezug – :
دستریز این ادوکلن فوق العاده گران قیمت رو تهیه کردم.دقیقا نظر قبلی خودم تایید شد.اکثر کارهای داو علیرغم خالص بودن نتها و رايحه ها و طبيعي بودن و در يك كلام خوش ساخت بودن اصلا جذاب نيستند دقيقا مثل اين كار.رايحه غليظ هلو ادم را خفه مي كند.به نظر من خيلي زياد زنانه است.پخش بو بیش از حد .همان خفه کننده.فقط به درد كلكسيون دارها مي خورد.ان هم با اين قيمت بالا
slaukolich – :
This is a classic pre-IFRA women’s oriental fragrance, everyone that recommends this must be a committed vintage junkie. Only buy if you like that style.
dj-dar – :
A ‘one spray will do you’ type of scent. Lightly applied, this a beautiful scent that tickles your nose and nasal passage in the gentlest way possible.
I know it says there are no aldehydes, but it sparkles in a way. At least at the start. It then moves more into the Woods where all of the animals live, and the ground is covered in both wet bark and animal droppings. Combined with the trees that are covered in fine layers of moss, stone fruits, soft citruses and the rain that has just fallen, you have Diaghalev.
Traditional in style, traditional in smell, this could be described as boring – and many would. I wouldn’t. I also wouldn’t pay for a full bottle either, as I predicted and hoped. One or two 7.5mL would be enough as I imagine this not being one I reach for often. Its one of those fragrances that make my stomach rumble, as though it were empty (No. 5 & Rive Gauche do this to me too)
Edit: also a reminder of just how amazing some of the fragrances like Cabochard still are.
gorkud – :
I couldn’t get thru the atomizer, I didn’t like it one bit. The notes were suffocating and rancid I disposed of it.
Dimasudomlya – :
I bought this fragrance several years ago, when it was comparatively inexpensive. I eventually got through the bottle but it was hard work. Such a suffocating scent.
VIK-T-OR – :
Relatively new to the world of perfume, I could only wonder what the almighty fuss about how new regulations had changed perfumes like Mitsouko beyond recognition. Smells pretty good to me, what’s the drama?
Go to the where the Roja Dove perfume stand is. Spritz Diaghilev. Immediately be overwhelmed by a sense that you were meant to be in the prime of your life in the 1920s, wearing furs, visiting speak-easys, using cigarette holders, going to the opera and generally being fabulous, opulent and TERRIBLY naughty. That my dears, is what the fuss is about. That is a chypre with claws very much intact.
Hamik – :
This is a complex fragrance no questions about it. This is also not a scent for the uninitiated. It took me years of perfume enjoyment to be able to truly understand and enjoy this scent. I do not believe this frag is reminiscent of Mitsouko (if at all, Nüwa is closer to Mitsouko than Diaghilev). This perfume has multiple stages of scents from the moment you apply it on your skin until the end of its life that goes well over 20 hours (I detect it on my skin very clearly 24 hours after application). Diaghilev opens up with notes of oakmoss and a touch of sweetness (peru balsam perhaps with peach), sweetness that will accompany this masterpiece during the whole life of the scent. Towards middle life I get a strong, pungent ammonia note that after some research online I believe is the civet (people also refer to cat urine smell) – it is definitely not pleasant but gives the fragrance this animalic vibe. At the end of its life the perfume compliments your skin with a soft labdanum note accompanied by the ambrette note shrouded in a delicious sweetness.
If you liked Enigma you will love Diaghilev (they do share the same background notes – i.e. bergamot, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli and benzoin). But that love comes with a steep price. So for most of us this fragrance will just remain a “tried once” experiment. For this review I had a sample provided to me by a dear friend. Despite the astonishing work done by Roja Dove on this frag I will never even consider spending that much money for a fragrance. But it was definitely worth trying.
Scent: 8/10 (a little old school)
Longevity: 10/10
Sillage: 7/10 (pretty close to skin)
Cost ratio: 3/10
Overall: 7/10
This scent deserves to be tested at least once in your lifetime. It will set new standards for your olfactory appreciations. The price is not justified (even with the rare materials that go into this perfume), that unless you are a real estate tycoon or a Gulf prince.
Edit
Mystery of ammonia solved 🙂 civet oil or tinctures contain ketones heres an excerpt from wikipedia: “The chemical in civet oil that gives it most of its distinctive odor is civetone, at a concentration of between 2.5 and 3.4 percent. The oil also includes various other ketones such as cyclopentadecanone, cyclohexadecanone, cycloheptadecanone, and 6-cis-cycloheptadecenone. The animal scent is reinforced by the presence of smaller amounts of indole and skatole, which in African civet are present at a concentration of about 1 percent.”
Makasino – :
This fragrance at once epitomises and breaks tradition with the chypres of yesteryear. It is, as folks have said above, a symphony of notes that never bores the wearer, though its sillage may deter the casual perfume enthusiast. I personally adored the orange peel, leather, amber and deep animalic notes. As for the homage to Mitsouko, bravo. Mitsouko’s little sister grew up to be 10 times as good, and about 10 times as expensive as well.
I should mention too that tenacity is 2+ days, which is quite wonderful. If you hug someone they will smell it long after. I love perfumes of this kind for making that impression: almost like wearing warpaint or a love potion, there is a sense of power when anointing yourself.
123фів – :
Possibly my favourite perfume. Huge in every respect. Vatfuls of citrus in the top notes, especially oranges, sitting on a mid section of a truck full of flowers and a massive base with dollops of civet. Dove has thrown everything but the kitchen sink at this, and it smells like something from another era of grandiosity and opulence, all purple velvet and decadence. The parfum opens rather sharp and skanky compared with the EDP, which has nicer and milder opening notes, but the perfume then knocks the EDP into a cocked hat in terms of development and longevity. The EDP is long-lasting (6-8 hours) while the perfume goes on for far longer. A wonderful fragrance to lull you to sleep, with just a dot on one wrist. I was given mine by the company and only have three or four 10ml bottles, so I ration this strictly and keep it in the fridge.
Sportlerherz – :
I tried it only on paper. It’s rich (in every sense), complex, 3D perfume from the past (which is very good). It says about wearer: I am special (and rich, and important). Trying it only on paper, I felt like listening to an overture. I even caught a bit of the first act. This is a kind of perfume which wasn’t made to smell nice, or sexy, etc. It awakens imagination, memories, associations. It talks to you.
It felt very familiar. Something from childhood when adults gather for a dinner party, they eat, they drink, and afterwords some gorgeous lady reaches for a box of Rothmans with golden rims, clicks a lighter, and she gracefully smokes.
ps eventually tried on my skin. regal
edited 16 Feb 2018
I finally bought it. I rarely get comments on perfumes but this one people seem to like, which surprised me. Honestly, I thought it would be my own extravagant guilty pleasure and they would simply have to tolerate but I was proven wrong.
Icemonkey – :
One more brilliant work of Roja Dove, but, for mature men, only. I´m almost 38 and I can´t see myself wearing this. The more I know Roja Dove´s work, the more I see that his primary target is gentlemen above 55-60 years old.
speeguips – :
Roja’s Diaghilev clearly has a nuanced appeal for men and women alike, but I could tell quickly from applying that it wasn’t quite going to be for me. I’m not sure what specific combination of notes is off-putting to my nose, but there are a lot of daring notes here, and in combination with one another, at that: civet, ambrette, violet, heliotrope, peach, styrax, cumin.
I get mainly a feminine musky floral mix that comes off like old lady perfume, but the same thing can be said of many fragrances that I like and wear, so it’s difficult to characterize my distaste for it on this basis. I’m almost troubled that I can’t figure out why I dislike it specifically.
It seems like a lot of thought went into it and it was crafted carefully, as one would expect with Roja Parfums, but it just doesn’t reside in an area that I like. It seems to perform fine, but sample before wearing, especially given how pricey it is ($1,150 for 100ml parfum).
4 out of 10
bona – :
Despite the price tag on this exclusive scent, it smelled absolutely dreadful on me and made me feel physically ill. Really musty and old, just a bad mix with my skin perhaps.
193102 – :
1st of all I absolutely love Roja Dove scents. For the amount of history , legacy , heritage and quality that Mr. DOVE comprehended through out his years toward mastery of perfumery.
Diagahilev is a chypre quality parfum that’s highly inspired by the legendary Mitsouko , which sergi him self loved the theater curtains to smell like it.
What set Diagahilev differently is the heavy dose of ultimate civet note , that gives the parfum a heavy animalistic theme that you’ll not experience in Jubilation 25 nor Mitsouko.
Quality parfum , with outstanding performance.
The price tag is not for the quality only but for the mastery and legacy behind the creation. It’s really for the privileged ones who value the art of perfumery.
Cheers
letranger71 – :
“Imposing, extraordinary and flawless… transporting back to the Old World, the stuff of legends.”
Diaghilev is a 2013 brainchild of Roja Dove, a prominent figure in the perfumery world. A perfumer and creative director of his own perfume line named after himself, Roja Dove is a larger-than-life personality who carves his own niche in the industry by offering magnificent perfumes without being tethered down by any financial restraint. Diaghilev is a prime epitome of his idea, and one he closely covets as a tribute of perfumes of the yesteryears.
Diaghilev is named after Sergei Diaghilev, an early 20th-century Russian Ballets Russes. Indeed, like any of Sergei’s works, Diaghilev is a masterpiece, a fragrance that is multifaceted on so many levels that it’s a full-length ballerina performance on a grand stage. Complex and opulent, this fragrance is NOT for the timid; it draws immediate attention to the wearer and all those around him/her. The wearer would definitely stand out in a room if he/she were to wear it, whether he/she likes it or not.
On a more intimate level, Diaghilev is conceived by Roja Dove as a tribute to Mitsouko, a legendary perfume by Guerlain conceived way back in 1919. Mitsouko is one of the definitive fragrances of the chypre genre, and is much loved by prominent figures such as Luca Turin. However, on my skin, the scent resembles Jubilation XXV by Amouage more than Mitsouko.
In a way, Diaghilev is the love-child of Jubilation and Mitsouko: the opening is a powerful blast of citrus (particularly peach) and spicy notes (particularly cumin) that are reminiscent of Guerlain’s iconic fragrance. At the same time, smoky-sweet incense accords (possibly myrrh) resemble that of Jubilation. Indeed, to me Diaghilev embodies the best of both worlds but on top of that, it also has something else: an exquisite brown-leather accord drenched in animalic castoreum that gives this unisex fragrance a very masculine edge. Also, the oakmoss in Diaghilev draws many parallels with MDCI Parfum’s Chypre Palatin, a pièce de résistance by Bertrand Duchaufour, giving both perfumes the unmistakable chypre identity.
Performance level, this perfume is perhaps the BIGGEST BEAST I’ve ever encountered. I had the first experience of wearing this at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City. Wearing two full sprays on my wrist, the scent persists even after my entire flight back to Singapore and a full shower… that’s more than twenty-four hours after application! I have yet to come across any fragrance with that kind of longevity and probably I doubt I would come across another such fragrance for a long time.
Diaghilev has garnered a lot of attention when it first debut in the perfume world for its magnificent smell and, on a less positive note, price. It’s definitely not modest: priced at £750/€990 for 100ml, the price is, *modestly* put, astronomical. As much as I love this fragrance, the price will break the bank and as subjective as pricing may be, I just can’t justify that kind of price for a perfume. Diaghilev is evidently for the highest echelon of buyers, and I’m certainly not in this tier.
For all those who love chypre or old-school fragrances, Diaghilev is an immediate shoo-in on the test list. Roja Dove describes it as “decadent, intoxicating and sophisticated.” I won’t disagree; they aptly describe what Diaghilev is about. But for me personally, I would describe it as “imposing, extraordinary and flawless” because, like Roja Dove, it’s larger than life. A standing ovation to the British Master Perfumer for offering to the world the definition of opulence in perfume form.
44artist44 – :
Scent – oakmoss, leather, civet & patchouli.
Season/Time of Day – I prefer to use this one in the colder months, day or night.
Projection – I did get noticed, I didn’t get a compliment.
Longevity – I get 12hrs consistently.
Dimann01 – :
excellent fragrance…stunning….my 100 ml bottle came in……a work of art indeed
roma800 – :
This perfume is a work of art. Totally classy with excellent longevity and projection. Well done Roja Dove!
ata1818 – :
Markanın beğendiğim parfümü. Bir klasik havasında. Bence kadınlar için uygun değil. Deri ve animalic yapısı bunu daha çok erkeklere yakın bir parfüm haline getiriyor. Etrafınızda hemen bir klasik ve kaliteli atmosfer oluşturuyor. Burada sıralanan noktaların tümünü koklayarak almak mümkün değil. Kalıcılık ve koku dağılımı makul, iyi. Diğerlerinde olduğu gibi bununda fiyat etiketini hak edip etmediği tartışmalı bir konu. Yaklaşık 1000 usd. Bu rakama neler alınabilir eminim benden iyi biliyorsunuz.
khrizantema – :
Quite rich and bulky with an enormous Sillage and longevity. Quite animalic with allot of Ylang Ylang. Dark green with gaiac wood & beaches. Sophisticated and too suffocating when applied more than 2 sprays on skin. it screams quality and fits the ballet dancing atmosphere to the max which is the reason it was created for Mr. Sergei Diaghilev.
in case you asked for the price, it’s around 1100$ for the 100ml.
Edit (16th Nov 2016) Unfortunately, i just realized that this fragrance was around 70 pounds when it was first released in 2011/2012 and Roja wasn’t the one who created it! and now in 2016 it is the same version of the 2012 but now it costs 1000+$! how come? i realize that it was flop and Roja didn’t say the truth about it.
I’ve always thought of fragrances as a piece of art and never look at the price tag, but when it come to Roja’s perfumes i always feel anxious about owning one! i feel so much hesitation when thinking of owning one and i was wondering why! now the picture became clear about him and the missing link appeared just 2 days back. Each of his fragrances reminds me of another fragrance and i realized that all of his fragrances are rip offs something. Too bad Roja, but good that i have found out about you.
Mettallist – :
Opulent, luxurious and Regal. Probably the most stunning fragrance I’ve come across so far. This masterpiece is a 10/10. Pity the price is out of my range. I wish it was available in 50ml bottles.
Scandalnight – :
Absolutely stunning. Some light cirtus and sharp florals on top, then … dirty, earthy green. Moss and civet. Like walking through an ancient place, with stone structures, and moss growing out of the dusty cracks…
adveveproof – :
one word,impressive,and the name i just love the name,reminds me of russia,kavkaz,dancers,ballerina and all those stuff,voyage through perfume.
sasha33 – :
not my cup of tea 6/10 well made but to mature and to churchy feel for me!
das77 – :
This is very similar to Maai’s drydown!
avatar0185 – :
Diaghilev opens with a brief blast of concentrated citrus notes and moves into a very animalic heavy civet and oakmoss accord. It stays like this for a long time, then it’s slightly brightened by Ylang Ylang with some cloves joining the skanky party. The main star of the show is the civet and oakmoss and this never goes away.
I get average projection but good longevity of several hours before it’s a skin scent.
This scent is like a piece of art from over a hundred years ago in a museum which you can appreciate but would not think of taking it home and hanging it in your living room. Though those who love Leather Oud, Vintage Korous, Mouchoir de Monsieur and other heavy civet and oakmoss fragrances will find much to love here.
qaqhome1 – :
one of my favorite fragrances, one of best chypre fragrance i have ever smelled
Fresh 10/10
rich 10/10
Pwadery 10/10
leathery 10/10
earthy 10/10
woody 10/10
anaimalic (musky) 10/10
every note in this gorgeous excellent if u like chypre fragrance you will like it without any proplem
Raziel2010 – :
Dirty sexy. Tousled hair, sweat, naked raw sensuality. Not for the faint of heart or delicate of sensibility.
hater – :
I’ll start by saying this is not my cup of tea at all a mixture of dense complex heavy floral chypre and aromatic powerhouse…make no mistake people, Diaghliev is real perfume.
I respect this composition for it’s complexity and moments of beauty but the main elements are too dry and potent for me. The opening is a classic device the interplay of sharp lemon/lime citrus and heavy musk. The oakmoss and civet are very heavy indeed but don’t choke you out and that means one thing…superb quality. The balance is right here and if you like this sort of classic approach to perfume then this composition would rival the very best. The dry down is very nice and there’s too many notes to mention popping out of the mossy earthy base.
There’s elements I don’t like, you can smell cloves and ylang quite strongly in the opening especially this is too musky, never feminine (in fact almost butch at times) but quite dated and too formally perfume like but not the way I want to smell.
I can understand how some would consider this to be Roja’s stand out work as the others are quite accessible and almost modern in comparison to Diaghliev.
Great longevity and projection but not for me.
zv-vladimir – :
EN. Little more about Diaghilev. I would like to add another thing to my previous review, some people speak often about a similarity between Diaghilev and Mitsouko by Guerlain and as the saying goes “there is no smoke without fire.”
Having all 3 perfumes (often they speak also of Guerlain’s Vol de Noit) I did several tests, so I’ll try to explain here the main differences: initially in Diaghilev you feel a strong animalistic notes (civet) and some bitterness, probably from tuberose, which in Mitsouko is weaker (to not speak of bitterness, that doesn’t exist in Mitsouko), Mitsouko at the same time, retains its unmistakable aroma for hours, but Diaghilev, after an hour loses almost everything, remaining with only its light sweet&woody base.
As for Vol de Noit, here there isn’t a lot in common. Vol de Noit (I speak, however, about its concentration of “pure perfume” and not EDT) initially has a strong animalistic note, but loses it much sooner than Diaghilev does, acquiring instead the rich powder note with a slight, but very distant animalistic note.
So it makes no sense also to mix Mitsouko with Vol de Noit, trying this way to get an economic variant of Diaghilev, as suggested sometimes in the various revisions, because this combination also would have very little in common with Diaghilev.
IT. Riguarda Diaghilev aggiungerei un’altra cosa alla mia recensione precedente: si parla spesso di una somiglianza tra Diaghilev e Mitsouko di Guerlain e come dice il proverbio “non c’è fumo senza fuoco.”
Avendo tutti 3 profumi (si parla spesso anche di Vol de Noit di Guerlain) ho fatto vari prove, quindi proverò a spiegare qui la principale differenza: inizialmente nel Diaghilev si percepisce una fortissima nota animalesca (zibetto) e qualche amarezza, probabilmente dalla tuberosa, che nel Mitsouko è più debole (di non parlare dell’amarezza che nel Mitsouko non esiste proprio), Mitsouko allo stesso tempo, mantiene la sua inconfondibile aroma per ore, Diaghilev, invece, dopo un’ora perde quasi tutto, rimanendo solo con una leggera base dolce e legnosa.
Per quanto riguarda Vol de Noit, qui non c’è molte cose in comune proprio. Vol de Noit (parlo, comunque, di una concentrazione “puro profumo”) ha inizialmente una forte nota animalesca, ma la perde molto più veloce di Diaghilev, acquistando invece una nota di cipria con una lieve, ma molto distante nota animalesca.
Quindi non ha alcun senso mescolare Mitsouko con Vol de Noit per arrivare a un variante economico di Diaghilev, come a volte viene consigliato nelle vari recensioni, perché anche questa combinazione avrebbe molto poco in comune con Diaghilev.
panterrrka – :
EN. This is a general review for all 7 men’s fragrances by Dove Roja, which I received from his boutique in Harrods (London) as 2ml pure perfume samples. Well, what can I say about… I’m sorry I wasted $210 just to satisfy my curiosity.
So, in order of things:
1 First of all, the most famous and most publicized Dove Roja’s perfume – Diaghilev doesn’t smell like, Mitsouko, or like a mixture any the other Guerlain’s fragrances, as can often be found in the various review here, however, in its initial notes it slightly reminiscences the opening of Vol de Nuit (pure perfume edition), Diaghilev, as to me, is weaker and with some strange bitterness, which fortunately disappears after about an hour. Well, in general is not bad, but I would not wear it, as I would not wear the other 5 of 7 men’s fragrances from Roja that I have received, the exception would be Roja’s Scandal pour homme.
2 Nüwa, as I expected from the list of ingredients, smells hard of cumin and frankly is just unbearable. It ‘a kind of suffocating stench of sweaty men in a concentrated mixture of almonds.
3 Fetish and Reckless are good anyway, but then, as often happens with Roja’s perfume, Fetish to me smells like a twin of Interlude Man by Amouage, while Interlude doesn’t cost $600, but much less. I mean that Fetish and Reckless are good and high quality perfumes, but, I would say, that they are a pure example of what does “too much” means. I believe, that this is the reason why wealthy Russian consumers love them, because they have to show off the money.
4. About Enigma and Danger I wouldn’t even talk – they are just 2 boring woody fragrances.
If I need to describe in one sentence the style of perfumes by Roja I would call the Rococo genre: they are very intense, everything is always created in strict accordance with the laws of luxury perfumery, every detail is taken into consideration, but it’s too much, it’s not in the right place and in general you wasted your money just for the name and authority of Dove Roja. However, if one day, despite this review, someone would decide to give me a perfume by Roja, I would certainly prefer Scandal by Roja. This one, at least, is the most original and, at the same time, more stable perfume of the whole male line. Diaghilev, for example, in its new configuration evaporates too soon.
While I was writing this review, all 7 fragrances are arrived to their olfactory pyramid base and I decided to add in the conclusion that all of them, except Scandal have completed their transformation to a very regular woody note, as happens to the most men’s fragrances that cost from $50 to $90 for a bottle of 100 ml. Therefore, I hope that the time you find to read this my review was spent much useful than mine, wasted to discover Dove Roja’s perfumery art.
EmilMailliard – :
IT. Si tratta di una recensione unica per tutti i 7 profumi da uomo di Dove Roja, che ho ricevuto da una boutique di Roja in Inghilterra in qualità dei campioni di 2ml di puro profumo. Beh, cosa posso dire… non mi dispiace di aver sprecato €162 per soddisfare la mia curiosità.
Quindi, in ordine:
1. Prima di tutto, il più famoso e pubblicizzato profumo di Roja – Diaghilev non assomiglia comunque, a Mitsouko, o a una miscela degli altri profumi di Guerlain, come spesso può essere trovato nei vari recensioni, però, nelle sue note iniziali è leggermente ricorda l’apertura di Vol de Nuit (sotto una forma del profumo puro), solo che Diaghilev, secondo me, sia più debole e con qualche strana amarezza che per fortuna scompare dopo circa un’ora. Anche se in generale non è male, ma non vorrei indossarlo, come non vorrei indossare gli altri 5 di 7 profumi da uomo di Roja che io abbia ricevuto, l’eccezione sarebbe Roja Scandalo pour homme.
2. Nüwa, come si aspettava dalla lista degli ingredienti, puzza francamente di cumino ed è proprio insopportabile. E ‘una sorta di soffocante fetore di uomini sudati in una concentrata miscela dell’odore di mandorle.
3. Fetish e Reckless sono buoni comunque, ma poi, come spesso succede coi profumi di Roja, Fetish, secondo me, assomiglia come un gemello a Interlude Man di Amouage, mentre Interlude non costa € 500, ma molto meno. Insomma, Fetish e Reckless sono buoni profumi, ma, come dirlo, sono un puro esempio di “troppo”. Sono un sacco di cose di troppo. Per questo, credo, che i ricchi consumatori russi li adorano.
4. Di Enigma e Danger non vorrei nemmeno parlare – sono 2 noiose fragranze legnose.
In una parola può descrivere l’arte dei profumi di Roja come le opere nel genere Rococò: sono molto intensi, tutto sempre viene creato in stretta conformità con le leggi della profumeria di lusso, ogni dettaglio è preso in considerazione, ma… è troppo, non è nel posto giusto e in generale sono i soldi sprecati solo per il nome di Roja. Comunque, se un giorno, nonostante questa mia recensione, qualcuno deciderebbe di regalarmi qualche profumo di Dove Roja, allora certamente preferirei Roja Scandal. Quest’ultimo almeno, il più originale e, al tempo stesso, più stabile profumo di tutta la linea maschile. Diaghilev, per esempio, nella sua nuova configurazione si evapora abbastanza presto.
Mentre stavo scrivendo questa recensione, i 7 profumi messi in prova sono arrivati alla base della loro piramide olfattiva e ho deciso di aggiungere alla conclusione che tutti loro, tranne Scandal hanno completato la loro trasformazione ad un di tutto normale nota legnosa, come succederebbe anche nel caso della maggior parte degli fragranze maschili ad un prezzo di € 50 per una bottiglia da 100 ml. Perciò, spero che il tempo dedicato a leggere questa mia recensione vi sia passato in modo molto più utile del mio, sprecato per conoscere i lavori di Dove Roja.
TheSpy – :
Is quite interesting that the differences between the original Dighilev composition and the relaunched parfum strenght are, somehow, the same differences between Mitsouko and what is known to have inspired Mitsouko, the legendary Coty Chypre. The Original Diaghilev is more muscular, dry, almost masculine, putting much more emphasis on the moss and on driest citrus and flower aromas. The Parfum, however, is like a classic Mitsouko with a nod to current chypres (it comes to my mind, besides the Amouage one listed on the similarities, Gucci Rush too). It fills the driest sections of the first version with soft peachy tones and sensual flowers that blooms on different moments on skin. The spices also seem to be more intense and dirty, but the scent itself isn’t dirty. It’s complex, abstract, very sensual but in a refined way. It’s not a kind of fragrance that is on trend anymore, but i guess that there is always space for some high quality chypre (too bad that it’s so expensive!).
ryrizes – :
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