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palahx – :
New Sibet definitely impressed me. It opens with a note of fresh mint, that strikes a clear tone like a bell. Soft carnation,, carroty orris, mint and goat milk create an oddly natural but strange scent. The carnation, waxy orris and smoothed out oakmoss give the scent an overal vintage vibe. I’m impressed that Josh Lobb got such a harmonious scent out of such disparate notes, but it works. It’s a very pleasantly clean and smooth scent. Over time the orris note gets less carroty and more waxy, and the suede and ash notes join. They’re minor, but they do add depth to the scent and the suede and ash combo reminds me of a similarly mellow accord from Myths Man. I love this different direction for Slumberhouse. Josh Lobb seems to be obsessed with waxy notes (olive in pear and olive, orris here, carmex lip balm in ore, etc). This is an interesting exploration. It has an unfamiliar wholesomeness – the image I get is of a rosy cheeked farm girl doing chores in her garden, high in the Himalayan mountains. The smell of the carrots she’s picking, mixed with the cool mountain air and the smell of her freshly washed skin. Despite the goat fur tincture, I don’t really find this scent to be “animatic” – it’s just a light goat milk like tang, and some clean suede. Projection is average (on the low side for slumberhouse scents) but longevity is good. Love.
Ballari – :
Worm oily cooking iris, & goat hair indeed.
Hmm.. I had this sample since Nov 2016 and I sisnt bother to open it till I saw a thread in the forum about the best iris fragrance so I saw this mentioned by one of fragrantica’s users so i decided to retest it again and it is the kind of weird iris as the user mentioned. It’s iris with goat hair in an oily texture with hints of oakmoss, mint, & carnations. It is kind of similar to “Dama koupa” by Baruti.
It’s fair to be honest but I feel its overly powered oily kind of iris in a way that makes me think of a pan fried type of fragrance. “Dama Koupa” used to be one of my favorites in a certain time but not anymore as I see it kind of too much powered up blend with too much weird type of iris, it’s ok but not a favorite iris… so “Sibet” is like that too.
ustas79 – :
One thing that surprises me in the recent launch of the American indie brand Slumberhouse is that it is almost the opposite of what the brand usually does. Slumberhouse perfumes are striking, hitting you with powerful and unusual notes and so are not always easy to use. They are perfumes that often function more as concepts than creations to be appreciated in everyday life. However with New Sibet the brand seems to aim at something moderate, balanced and of great quality and that for me automatically stands out as one of the best they have ever done.
That does not mean that New Sibet is an easy perfume, even more so for someone who is accustomed to the commercial releases or the perfumes that have been popular lately. Sibet is timeless, it looks into the mysterious harmony of the elements that make a chypre classic so interesting and cozy. It is as if brand revisit and made their own the idea present in Coty Chypre.
New Sibet exchanges a citrus bergamot for a luxurious rich orris aroma. This is not the iris that we are accustomed to in perfumery, the powdery one, but the true one, that of the iris absolute, which has vegetal and earthy contours and which is the most expensive variety. It is well-balanced, opening space to the hot spicy aroma of the carnatioin and an herbal touch of mint to brighten the combination. The scent evolves into a warm base of oak moss and labdanum, and if there is a fantasy or real goat fur note it just adds a subtle animalic touch to the idea. The leather is also not the most obvious note to me and instead I feel a more elegant woody scent that makes me think of Indian sandalwood. Sibet is something new to the brand, daring in the sense that few use today to risk that kind of chypre but harmonic and elegant in a way that many of the brand’s most avant-garde creations can not be.
LSD004 – :
I love the opening of this – I can’t get enough of it in the first half hour, and drive around in my car with my wrist stuck in my nose. (I do the same thing with Mitsouko and 1969, though Mitsouko stays on and on so I can relax eventually) Here I get the powder, the mint , the leather , the green, some ashiness and something else that was driving me crazy until my friend identified it as pencil lead. That’s it! I used to have a small herd of dairy goats so was intrigued by the goat hair tincture, but I don’t detect their lovely smell in this – maybe because I had no bucks, and those are the goats that give the “goaty” smell. The ewes just smell clean and good and hidey and milky. But I guess thats reflected in the nice leather found here. I think I will buy this – my only reservation is that it pretty much evaporates on me after about an hour or an hour and a half. Very faint, mossy leather I can barely detect. So I will likely go though it quickly in order to keep my wrist on my nose through traffic jams great and small. Wish it was a bigger bottle….
otiv – :
Kouros for women
terliemo1977 – :
The opening of New Sibet is gorgeous orris/leather on me. Very earthy supple and grounding. The drydown is reminiscent of L’heure Bleue. I’m not really getting anything challenging or seriously animalic. It smells like fresh air in the countryside, green, mossy, and open, filled with subtle natural nuances that beg you to inhale more deeply. An extremely delicate leather, expensive makeup and a piece of antique lace floating in the breeze.This is worth every penny. So incredibly good. I’ve finally found *my* orris perfume.
1982petuh – :
I’ve heard so many great things about this one and I was so excited to try the goat smell. But on me, it smells like old lady, and like the lipstick my mom would wear when I was a kid. No good associations even though it’s a pretty nice smell. Nah, this one’s not for me.
Elephant – :
This is one of my favorite scents this fall. The orris gives it a pretty powdery vintage/old lady scent that makes a great juxtaposition with the musky goat fur. One without the other wouldn’t work as well, but the combination of the prim perfume with the earthy rugged musk feels sophisticated.
ky6uk – :
I’ve been dissecting this fragrance since I received my bottle. It seems like each time I wear it I discover a new nuance in it. It is first a gorgeous, minty and spicy orris root scent before it turns smoky and to a leathery scent. I really love the feeling of it. I’m pretty sure I get some patchouli (a little) in the first minutes because there is something earthy here, and I get cloves also I think. I would not call it animalic though. I owe some perfumes that contain hyrax or civet (Montecristo for instance or some Sultan Pasha attars) and these ones really smell like animalic. New Sibet, even though it’s leathery, never smells animalic to me so don’t be afraid of the goat fur accord.That’s a very deep and complex perfume, a little unsettling at the beginning because it’s so unique, but that quickly became one of my favorite in my collection. It just makes me feel good. It is very long lasting and the base lingers a long long time on the skin. It’s not a super powerful perfume on me. It’s more an intimate experience. Love it
AntonZloi – :
The first animalic fragrance from the Slumberhouse line, which is known for its very exceptional and uncommon resinous scents is a surprisingly bright and airy beauty with the main notes of leather and goat hair tincture, which are sweetened and fortified with mint, ash, orris, labdanum, moss and carnation. Like every other offering from this eclectic house this one also requires a very open mind to appreciate the beauty of the perfumery. Unlike other fragrances from this house, this one has a relatively moderate sillage and longevity, but it is definitely a stunning beauty which balances dark and light notes, and takes on a journey to a mysterious and mystical place – In this case probably a moss laden forest pond in the morning with animals hiding in the thickets. Very evocative, but not for the faint hearted.
rfs895elipseskism – :
I really like how goat hair tincture is the second most dominant note here as per votes of fragranticans. I mean, who doesn’t know what THAT smells like, right?… Extraordinary
lenok – :
Too start, much cleaner than I expected, with the orris and mint being the main player. A few minutes later though, the animal components come out to play and completely transform the scent. On hair it’s still clean, but wild, while on skin it turns sticky and has a bit of barnyard.
It seems to be getting stronger the longer I wear it, during the first few hours.
coilone – :
The notes appeared almost in exactly same order as shown on “Main notes according to your votes”; orris, goat hair, leather, carnation, moss, ash… that’s it according to my skin and nose. They lasted significantly different, so instead of mostly leathery orris I have hoped for, it ended up being more about leather chypre.
Very interesting perfume, not as nearly harsh or butchy as I expected (my first Slumberhouse tested).
Lovely orris, buttery with a soft violet touch, leather is sumptuous and complements orris in a best way. The ash note appears here as well adding an interesting, antique dimension to orris and leather (similar to dusty pleasantly ashy/moldy treatment of Maria Candida Gentile perfumes). Unfortunately for me, orris-leather slowly leaves the stage after this.
I see that goat hair note raised many eyebrows here, actually it’s quite harmless animalic note that begins as goat milk note and later develops into more leathery and refined animalic accord – together with spicy carnation and moss takes it to the chypre side and stays there; dries down just like a classic powerhouse leather chypre with big spicy oakmoss/leather/carnation.
It’s a very good leather/chypre, with many interesting facets and twists (goat, ash, carnation) and good lasting power, but as I was looking for a big and longlasting buttery/leathery orris, the search goes on.
ikhtiander – :
New Sibet smells exactly like old rug with Danish Oil wood finish. If somehow you like this scent you should check it out in your hardware store. Unfortunately it is skin irritant, so you will need to soak rug in it and carry it with you. Little inconvenience, but it would save you $150!
Definitely not a safe buy!
dkzafgl038 – :
“Goat Hair Tincture” was not exactly encouraging–but… intriquing. I love goats, having grown up with them as pets along with our horses; I just wasn’t sure I wanted to wear one. I thought this fragrance would be sexy and skanky. However, it is not that exactly. I found it in the first 15-20 minutes an austere sort of sexy, kinky sexy, more S&M than “love me tenderly.”
The initial blast was beautiful, floral, and even up close, throat-closing mentholated (mint? chrysanthemum?), and then the goat-leather-labdanum came through a few seconds later, still mingling with the floral mums and I would even add a rose (though not listed). Twenty minutes in there is a “sweet earthiness” (that hints at patchouli–again, not listed, the methylated earthy kind, NOT “hippie nag champa”) and it becomes ever more sweetly amber-animalic (though not floss) and the mums settle into a low-throttled spiciness. The “harsh” “goaty leather” smooths into a lovely, warm, skin scent that IS rather sexy and tender with wafts of incense (labdanum).
I highly recommend. This is novel yet classic, well-constructed and beautiful. (Thank goodness, because I want to keep feeling the love for goats. This is the first time I’ve ever looked up/posted on Fragrantica and seen “Patches” (dead ringer for one of ours) as a fragrance note!).
vik_taras – :
Some scents I only think of in terms of separate notes. This one paints a picture. It’s an early morning walk past a swamp near farmland. You can smell moss and vegetation, and a goat in a nearby field comes up to greet you instantly. Its coat of fur is wet from the morning dew. You can detect the smell of ash, maybe from a campfire extinguished not too long ago
Илья Солодухин – :
Okay, I’ve now worn New Sibet several more times and have additional thoughts about it. One of the first thoughts is that I’m hopefully maturing in my olfactory opinions. While I still don’t love the goat fur note, I do appreciate the overall fragrance much more. This wears something like Serge Lutens Arabie, but with the animalic goat fur presence. I actually enjoyed the full day wearing New Sibet after letting myself get to know it better and give it a chance. I may go “fur” a full bottle at some point.
I love many of Josh Lobb’s fragrances. Norne is one of my top three favorite fragrances of all time, so I’m definitely fond of his work.
I’m giving New Sibet a thumbs up, but I would definitely recommend sampling this one before investing in a full bottle. It’s a strange frag. But I applaud Josh’s unique creative sense once again!
Шима – :
Like other Slumberhouse perfumes, New Sibet feels deliberate. As if the perfume I’m smelling is the thousandth mod. The one that got the dynamics, tones and balances just the way the perfumer intended. The attention to detail is apparent, but most Slumberhouse perfumes favor ecstatic imbalance over caution. New Sibet is focussed and edited differently, though, and it’s quite a change from the recent sweet, syrupy directness of Kiste and Sadanne.
Still, it’s not a return to the good-old/bad-old viscous Slumber-style that many have been publicly hankering for. Better yet, it’s something new. New Sibet is an unexpected iris. It balances the notoriously finicky note and succeeds in creating a distinctive, durable iris root. It turns iris root’s signature powder to dust and ash, keeping the focus on a grey horizon. Iris’s leathery/paper side gives the perfume a stiff, upright posture.
Independent and artisanal perfumers have been re-examining traditional forms. Chypres, animalics, fougères. If Lobb has been deciphering vintage genres, his approach is the furthest thing from recreating an old-school sensibility. New Sibet doesn’t reach for a vintage, nostalgic vibe but it does have the tailored rigidity of the classic floral/animalic chypres and the snubbed-cigarette severity of the old leather chypres. The olfactory qualities are there, but the haughtiness, the ‘grand-dame’ character of those retired chypres don’t apply.
Lobb famously doesn’t work with topnotes, but with New Sibet he plays with the evolution of the perfume and materials in a new way. The opening set of notes reduces over the course of an hour or so–like a striptease–revealing the core of the perfume. The notes then continue to rotate through different configurations through the drydown. Different facets appear and recede, emphasizing different angles of the central woody floral. Spice, resin, animalic tones, sweetness. This changing geometry of notes is a style Lobb has explored over the course of his career but in New Sibet he polishes the technique even further.
(from scenthurdle.com)
phoenix512 – :
Finally a Slumberhouse that I dig from beginning to end, with every twist and turn.
It’s like wearing a favorite leather jacket, and on this jacket is a smattering of stuff from many years of house parties and dive bars–women’s makeup and perfume, men’s cologne, traces of cigarette smoke.
Within this bottle I smell the most perfect lipstick-and-powdery-makeup accord ever, albeit short-lived and relegated to the top notes like all the others of its kind (I’m looking at you, Lipstick On! And you, Incarnata!).
In my mind “New Sibet” means “new civet,” as it smells less like goat and more like a nice synthetic civet accord. I hope it’s synthetic.
Very long-lasting and has fairly strong projection.
I love it.
FriendAlexandra – :
This one by Slumberhouse is very different to the others that I have sampled. I get a big hit of orris up front. Then as it settles smooth leather and some kind of musky spice. Really what it reminds me of is smelling one of my grandmother’s expensive black leather purses. She always kept some lipstick(in gold metal tube)a compact, a few Kleenex tissues, and a pack of gum usually juicy fruit but sometimes big red. I would always open her purse and dig around and stick my nose in there. I love the smell of leather. Don’t know if I will buy a full bottle but I like it.
Dimas 74 – :
Slumberhouse’s 2016 release of New Sibet is the first animalic entry in the house that I’ve tried (any others probably having been discontinued, as their scents seem to be short-lived), and in that respect, it does not disappoint. New Sibet is an odd mix leather, cistus, styrax, moss, and ash. I detect the general vibe without really being able to identify virtually any of the notes. It mainly comes off as an amalgamation of leather and woods, with other slight floral and animalic touches. “Goat fur” is a particularly odd note (perhaps a fake one) that certainly provides some color to the note breakdown.
Performance is okay, better than some of the weaker members of the house (i.e. Kiste, Sadanne, Pear + Olive) but certainly not as strong as the darker entries (i.e. Norne, Jeke, Ore). Perhaps worth the $160 for 30ml extrait price if you’re in love with it, but I am not.
7 out of 10
urbaclela – :
Beautifully smooth rooty iris paired with suede leather and a perfect touch of animalic skank. Gives off notes of chocolate and flowers and suede as it floats its aura around you. It’s sophisticated, sexy, and to me this is gorgeous. Somewhat short lived but worth it for the exceptional quality, originality, and transitions.
brad_pitt – :
Opens with a strong blast of “ancient” orris powder together with ash, then slowly transition into a warm leather fragrance; however, the horror comes in a couple of hours later when I smelled “pork skin” on my hand (and it projects quite well).. specifically the kind you’d eat, unseasoned
kseniya200011 – :
Chaulky, powedery iris combined with a smooth leather note, along with something slightly animalic in the background. I don’t know if that’s the goat hair note or something else. Very potent juice. Overall, I like it so far. Quality is there. Another good one from Slumberhouse.
tdhtqxbr – :
You had me at Goat Fur.
floocc – :
Following the easy appeal of Kiste, New Sibet suggests a return to the strange and challenging aesthetic often associated with the brand in a way that underscores increasingly refined technical skills. As is the standard with this line, the scent is unprecedented. And, as with all things genuinely original, it’s unsettling at first sniff. This is a brand that cannot be assessed via paper strips or drive-by sniffs of the cap; they’re scents that have to be worn and lived in — even if they make you uncomfortable. New Sibet is perhaps the best example of this.
A few weeks ago I was traveling across the US and found myself driving through the country roads of the American Midwest’s Corn Belt. Because I’ve always lived in cities, getting out into the heartland is a treat for the senses. I drove with the windows down and the a/c off (even though the temperatures were soaring) just so I could take in the scent of passing fields and whatnot. While New Sibet doesn’t smell like fields of corn per se, the impression that it gives me is along the same lines — that of a dusty, dry atmosphere buzzing over a huge open space.
I suspect that this scent will be contentious as it’s such a unique, tonal smell — not one that hits you hard with obvious nostalgia (Sova), high drama (Zahd), or easy comfort (Kiste). In fact, it’s discomforting at first — like getting lost in an arid, open, alien landscape. It’s highly cerebral, jaw-droppingly sophisticated, packed with subtleties, but the initial impression I get upfront is of sandy / beige colored leather — perhaps a vintage leather jacket done in a western style. The leather is wrapped around scorched florals and a buttery musk that splits the difference between skin, hair, and baked earth. If there’s a hay-like feel to it at all, it would be dry, clean hay. What is extraordinary, though, is how dovetailed these notes are. I could never say “this is a leather scent” even though leather is clearly present (I’d peg the genre as somewhere between leather, woody-oriental, and chypre, but it’s a scent that debunks the very concept of genre classification). If anything, I’d be inclined to say that it’s a sandalwood-based scent as there’s a distinct bubble of buttery-rich blonde woods and mysore carrying the low end. It smells ambient, like the air of a space in which multiple scents intertwine but without any muddiness whatsoever. Unlike Slumberhouse releases of the past, there’s no wall-of-scent going on here — nothing syrupy, goopy, or particularly dark / aggressive; it’s open, spacious, and very dry. If Mare was the scent of a depopulated world in which vegetation retook ownership, this is a similarly desolate space, only without the green, damp vegetation. It’s dusty, barren, distant — yet calming once you dial into it. It does smell like a thing from the past, but not quite a vintage perfume (even though there seems to be a considerable vintage influence at work). If there’s a genealogy to the brand at all (despite his obvious knack for decoupling himself from anything he’s done before), I’d situate this as an estranged cousin, several times removed, from either Sova or Sana (Une Fleur de Cassie and L’Air de Rien come to mind as well). Although I think it might divide fans of the older style, I suspect that New Sibet will draw a new audience of its own. More unexpected than anything he’s released as of late, but I think that’s why people flock to the brand in the first place as Slumberhouse remains one of very few lines that is actually innovating and is way ahead of its time.
mmZOR – :
I’m sure the ash sweetens it.