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Яна – :
I heard so many deep dark legends about how good this was that I had to try it – dark spicy resiny woods being my home territory. At first spray I was a bit underwhelmed – yeah, it was in that ballpark, but not hitting any of the notes particularly heavily, very nice, very rich, very opulent, but really nothing stellar or unusual. Then it deepened and broadened for a couple of hours to become something really special, with really delicious frankincense. Then, about 4h in (on female skin in cool conditions, low humidity) most of the good stuff had died away and I was left only with a very bitter, sweaty afterwash… possibly the coffee and/or styrax, but in this phase, on me, it was acrid and not that great even for a lover of dark woody spice. I’d very happily try again and give it another go, but beware, this isn’t for blind buying (especially at its steep retail price point.)
mrgoga – :
Thanks, Nemophilist…I’ve actually not yet gotten my nose on TF’s London but was curious about it for a long time. I have to come back to Nanban when the weather cools a bit more because, while I do like it, I’m not LOVING it right now (glad I didnt pay full price).
MIWBUTT and StellaDiverFlynn correctly picked up on the Oud quality, which I also picked up on immediately, but I find it curious how others are getting the coffee and tea notes because I’m not detecting even the slightest hint of those notes! =/
him1k1987 – :
Jwhdz1: I don’t know if you are familiar with London by Tom Ford, but I just dabbed some Nanban on my wrist about 15-30 minutes ago and it is reminding me quite a bit of a softer version of Tom Ford London at this early stage.
IsommaTutratt – :
I’m going crazy trying to figure out what this reminds me of! On first wearing, I find it to be very leathery in the opening. After an hour or so, it begins to soften up and get much smoother/sweeter…quite nice at this stage, actually. Not really getting anything that resembles coffee or tea but am definitely getting something that reminds me of oud? hmmm. need to spend more time with this…
tue248JeomiWogkig – :
This is a beautiful perfume, wonderfully balanced. On my skin, it is very masculine, so while I’m very impressed with it it’s not one that I would wear while out and about.
I would love to smell it on a man, though.
mohoriarrob – :
WHAO! fantastique, unique chaud précieux ce parfum est beau. Il ne ressemble a rien de connut. je l’aime il est comme une seconde peau.9/10
Nwatchmoviese47 – :
A boundary pushing Oriental gourmand, this warm resinous beauty combines many unusual notes with winning effect. The gourmand/spice elements include pepper, saffron, tea, coffee, juniper berries and myrhh. These are rounded off with leather, incense, styrax, sandalwood, and finally copaiba balm to achieve an amazing resinous effect. Probably one of the best unisex inoffensive fragrances created for wintry chills, this bright beauty radiates and glows on your skin without overwhelming or offending. The dry down is gorgeous with the initial leathery fruit/spice drying down to a beautiful woody resin on your skin. Exquisite Arquiste!
zamamuka – :
This is to me what I wanted Olympic Orchid’s Cafe V to be – worn, luxurious leather – deep black coffee and tea – rich sludgy resins and spices – perhaps even a varnished wood of sorts – in short: the amazing coffeehouse/hole in the wall joint that you love visiting at 2AM after a rough day: the one where time passes without you being aware: the one so dimly lit and intoxicating once you leave you have to rub your eyes a few times before being capable of looking around. There is an ‘oud’ quality which hangs about, and upon the drydown it, alongside a few of the darker resins, hang around as if they were the foundation of a dark Eastern Oud fragrance.
There is a sweetness that hides beneath all of the ‘rougher’ and more ‘masculine’ qualities of Nanban, although never does it stand up straight and demand attention. It could be the edge of the Saffron, or the milky sweetness of the sandalwood – either way it blends into the work just perfectly as the lights in the coffeehouse illuminating a pathway through the rest of the work.
I was looking for wonderful leather fragrances, and shimmering coffee fragrances, and this fits both bills while simultaneously pursuing an awful lot more.
8.5/10
YT: Jess AndWesH
Gizakyve – :
A good perfume to visit if your are in a search for perfect sandalwood. Not the sweet synthetic bling but that real smoky and a touch dirty wood. Arquiste carefully selected the companions for its sandal in this formula: tea and osmanthus, coffee, stryrax and others to give it a dark, sensual depth.
Some ombre gang…
jb7475 – :
Love this, nice woody great notes and blendedness I get a chocolate smell and no coffee, though I tend to get a chocolate note often when it’s not there it may be my skin. I just wish I knew what Chinese Osmanthus smells like. Has anyone picked up this note anywhere ever? 0_o Lasts a few hours could be a bit longer.
I have 100+ niche samples for swap within Europe – updated spreadsheet of samples on my profile, get in touch!
kne047speagoessenda – :
The first two hours of Arquiste Nanban has its potential: a beautifully musky, subtly animalic leather emerging from unctuous myrrh resin. There was initially an abstract fruitiness, which could be the osmanthus seen from the shadow of the supple yet wild leather. The bitter coffee merges with the milky creaminess of sandalwood, as if the leather is placed beside a cup of delicious cappuccino. Incense smoke mingles with the styrax aspect of leather, while saffron and cumin are carefully sprinkled on top. The overall effect of Nanban is not too far from Papillon Anubis and Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque on my skin, but Nanban is more streamlined and more modern than both while still managing to retain a quiet animalic whisper.
Unfortunately, as the subtle nuances wear off with time, Nanban then devolves into a sharp, smoky woody fragrance with a flat amber background, and it remains so until the end. The smoky woody part is quite similar to a few “oud” fragrances, such as Nasomatto Duro and LM Parfums Hard Leather, albeit Nanban being less aggressive than most.
The sillage is relatively soft and the longevity is around 10 hours. I firmly enjoyed the harmonious first two hours of Nanban, in which it managed to interpret sensual animalic leather with a modern fluidity, even though I prefer the more opulent and wild Anubis and Cuir Mauresque. However, its ubiquitous smoky dry down ultimately left me unsatisfied. If you happen to be looking for a smoky oud-y leather fragrance which is rather trendy among recent years’ niche offering, but with a soft ambery warmth and sensuality, Nanban would fit perfectly. That being said, I do find the price a bit too steep compared to other similar options.
dik18 – :
This opens as Murdock’s Black Tea, which I am very fond of, but soon the mellow smokey coffee notes bring you through to a dry down that is mostly leather, with coffee and myrrh smoke accents. I had sampled Arquiste some time ago, perhaps it is time to revisit? This is a slightly darker, cold weather friend. Very nice. Thumbs up.
BrutalheatH – :
I was hoping for the resins, osmanthus and tea to be more prominent, but really ‘Nanban’ is all about dark, smoky woods and leather.
I can picture myself inhaling the inside of a large wooden chest, resting in an old Japanese shrine. Once varnished and smooth, now worn and rugged from humidity and handling. It’s a rich, deep scent with a rounded texture, and the spice from the coffee and pepper imbue it with an intimate warmth.
There is something slightly ugly about it, however; A waxy dirtiness that reminds me of oud, although not listed as a note. While it enhances the ‘ancient artifact’ comparison, I don’t see this an an easy wear, certainly not if you like your woods to be fresh and clean, like I do. However, I can certainly appreciate the imagery it evokes.
It’s well blended and potent stuff, as to be expected from this house.
Крештак – :
Tried this on my skin today after visiting Bloom, they had a few drops left in a tester. The black pepper at the opening tricked me once again in thinking nothing much was going on in this fragrance. Luckily, myrrh and coffee started coming through after 10 mins or so, and after another while a lovely osmanthus made its presence noticeable.
It seems to increase in projection as it dries down to a sweet and very comforting mix of resins and woods.
It is very nice indeed. I am going back for more once the actual bottles hit the shop.
Svetushka – :
First Impression:
Right off the bat I get the Olibanum, Coffee, and Leather. This is a really beautiful mix. Given about 10 minutes passed the black tea note is starting to surface. Excellent juice. This is fall and winter all the way. This is classified as a unisex fragrance but I see this as a total Men’s fragrance. Very different.