Description
Mata Hari is a new fragrance arising from the collaboration of DSH Perfumes with Natural Perfumers Guild. It is launched in 15th November 2010 as a part of the Outlaw project in which many banned natural ingredients are used.
Margaretha Zelle or Mata Hari was an exotic dancer and notorious double spy in World War I; a true femme fatale. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was inspired by the Mata Hari movie starring Greta Garbo and by the perfumes of the early twentieth century. She chose a fruity chypre composition to evoke the memory of the popular perfumes of 1920s Paris with notes that reflect the character of the woman she was inspired by; fruits reflecting the sensuality that Mata Hari possessed, and moss and leather symbolizing her power and sexuality.
Mata Hari is a modern chypre fragrance with juicy fruits on a masculine leather background. There are also notes of vintage orchid and lilac, which were also very popular back in those days. Fruits of the opening are not subtle or concealed; Mata Hari approaches directly, she is a woman who knows what she wants. The perfume is based on the four natural botanical accords: fruit chord, lilac accord, vintage orchid and leather.
Top notes: bergamot, coriander, fruity notes No.1 (botanical accord), green mandarin, neroli, orange blossom, sweet orange, blood orange, tarragon.
Heart: blackcurrant, champaca, cinnamon, cloves, lilac cocktail (botanical accord), Moroccan rose, orris root, marigold, davana, may rose, otto rose, osmanthus, nutmeg, angelica root, honey, Sambac jasmine, tuberose, vintage orchid ( botanical accord).
Base: sandalwood, ambrette seed, peru balm, cumin, cedar, myrrh, tobacco, benzoin, Buddah wood, cassis bud, labdanum, patchouli, green oak moss, vetiver, leather (botanical accord), musk, tonka, cade, vanilla.
DSH Perfumes Mata Hari is available as 15 ml perfume extract and as 5 ml perfume.
asvettiki – :
Mata hari is bits of almost everything!
Vintage oily myrrh, Champaca, & honey blend with doses of cloves, nutmeg, lapdanum, balsamic, cinnamon, & patchouli.
Its more of an oily balsamic floral with doses of spicy spiritual mix in a churchy way. Nice.
ehm875Unlogrere – :
While reading the notes listed here, I admit I got a little manic – literally every smell I love, all packed into one powerful little juice – what could be better? I placed an order for my sample and I waited with baited breath, hoping that I had found my wintertime holy grail.
But sadly, on my skin, Mata Hari is lopsided.
While the opening entrances with its orange notes (something I’ve been craving madly as the holidays approach), also smelling the bergamot and a touch of something peppery, my nose starts getting befuddled soon after I spray, and it’s very hard to make out specific notes at the heart because the next thing my nose gets – and the ONLY thing it gets for the next two hours – is CLOVE.
Don’t get me wrong – I like the smell of cloves. I’ve even been actively searching for scents that include that note. But I’m apparently very sensitive to that spice so it can easily overwhelm my palette, which is what it does here. That’s frustrating, because while this rich juice could give a yummy nod to that note, which for me would be a welcome comfort, here it’s just TOO dominant. I would have liked to pick out the antique orchid notes, the jasmine, the rose and lilac. (My boyfriend described the floral notes as old lady-ish, but I’d always take that kind of critique with a grain of salt.) But I could only detect a slight floral heart myself, and again, my nose just couldn’t take in all the formula’s components because of that sweet, strong, cloying clove.
A few hours into my second and third wearing, I sniffed my wrist and caught slight touches of honey and tobacco – which along with the vanilla and some other resinous notes made for a sweet and pleasant skin scent once that clove quieted down. At that point, my skin was kissed with warm spices, but it was hard to detect oak moss or sandalwood, and I didn’t smell any leather, which I was looking forward to. It was nice enough, but it couldn’t redeem this formula for me, personally.
If I could try this juice without the clove accord, I’d be happy to invest in another sample (it’s very expensive though). There’s even part of me that thinks the house might honor that request. In any case, I’m intrigued by this brand and I have resolved to try exploring more of their offerings. But Mata Hari isn’t the one for me.
елена2002 – :
Mata Hari A Femme Fatale Fragrance
We all know the story of Mata Hari the Dutch housewife turned exotic showgirl who was years ahead of her time as far as women’s lib. She was a sensual, sexual adventuress who was maligned by a society that was not ready to accept such an independent and strong woman. This was during World War I and even before the free spirited flappers of the 20’s. Mata Hari would have indeed smelled like this fragrance. This was one of those perfumes that wowed me and blew me away. I equate this fragrance with Salome by Papillon Artisan. Both fragrances are spicy cumin based musky scents that are meant to evoke a femme fatale. Mata Hari however is more of a spicy fruity-floral chypre with heavy leather and incense. This fragrance has a lot going on. I had to wear it for an entire week (Fashion Week in New York) in order to analyze it and understand it. The bottle looks like a Coca Cola Bottle but this is as far from smelling like Coke than you could possibly get. It’s definitely not for everyone. This is a mature fragrance for noses who have experienced a lot of different fragrances over the years. This is also an indie niche fragrance with a vintage vibe. This wears more like one of the 1980’s power house fragrances like Dior’s Poison or Coco Chanel’s Coco or Krizia’s Teatro Alla Scala, Elizabeth Taylor’s Passion, Cartier’s Panthere, etc. There are so many different notes and scents that seduce your nose as they enter it upon different stages of the fragrance’s performance. And this is quite a show since Mata Hari herself is performing it. In the beginning the fragrance is fruity with citrus including even a strong blood orange. There is also neroli and spicy tarragon. But this wears away fast and the fragrance takes a longer time going through the floral heart and the base notes. At one point I smelled both of them alternating and jumping around back and forth. There is rose, jasmine, marigold, lilac, osmanthus, floral scents that are clearly there but never do take the lead. This is mainly a spicy musk. The spices include honey cinnamon and cumin. There is also tobacco galore, animalic musk and incense notes. The incense is myrrh and benzoin which turns into smoke. Dark, smoky, profound. There is wood notes of cedar and there’s plenty of patchouli. This is an embarrassment of riches as far as scents. So much to enjoy to indulge in. It’s sexy, it’s strong and it’s devil may care. At times it smells too much of musk, at other times of smoke and other times of fruits and flowers. I have discovered a masterpiece. I will always love this fragrance. With Salome and Mata Hari (and Passion by Elizabeth Taylor which I see as a Cleopatra scent) I have 3 femme fatales in my arsenal. Mata Hari is such an epic perfume! My biggest loss right now would be to have anosmia and have permanently lost my sense of smell. I pray this never ever ever happens so I can continue to smell this amazing fragrance.
Saintman – :
The opening of this perfume definitely reminds me of Femme by Rochas (the original version). This is a gorgeous rich and complex boozy/fruity chypre.
As it dries down it becomes more tawny and it has a lovely rich ambery glow. There are so many notes it seems a bit OCD to try to find them and name them, but suffice to say this is the essence of sophistication. It has that scented leather gloves note I love in Femme, but it’s more modern – a bit more amber, maybe slightly woodier but it’s soft too, it’s not loud at all, or a hard hitter.
It has to be tested on skin, even on my cool slightly dry skin this warms up beautifully which it doesn’t on a test strip. There’s no vintage face powder note, nothing too ‘old-school’, but it does have a proper chypre – that tingling dry/green twiggy note, which blends so beautifully with resins, but it’s sweet here and rounded
This is very smooth, sillage moderate, longevity ok.
Nick Baker – :
what does the “musk” stand for in a natural perfume???
domo – :
This has all the notes I want in a perfume, but I can’t find it anywhere, including the maker’s website. Anybody out there have any clues where it might be found?
YP.Pahomov – :
Perhaps one of the most enigmatic figures from the turn of the twentieth century, Mata Hari is a name that evokes intrigue, mystery, sensuality and (more than anything else) the term “femme fatale”. The woman who became known as Mata Hari (her exotic dancer name) was, in fact, NOT a double agent for ANY country in World War I (she was cleared by the French government in the mid-eighties); and was used as a scapegoat by those who were jealous (or appalled) by her strong free will and capricious lifestyle.
The movie of the same name (starring Greta Garbo) was based on some historical facts, but largely fictional; while being very entertaining. The ideal of Mata Hari (a sexy, dangerous double agent, who just happened to be an exotic dancer and courtesan, crossing nations and gaining the trust of two governments) is indeed a wonderful one. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has captured that essence very well here. Elegantly constructed, using a myriad of notes to emulate the complex persona of Mata Hari while remaining entirely natural AND using “outlaw” ingredients (something of which Mata Hari herself would be proud) to create a complex and stunning parfum…
To even begin to describe this perfume through individual notes is folly, as it has been skillfully comprised of 39 notes (four of which are botanical blends). Careful, if you look too close or analyze it too deeply…you miss its intrinsic beauty. The best way to experience this is to apply and let her mystify and captivate you. It is like watching an exquisite odalisque dance provocatively, revealing just enough to keep you interested without becoming vulgar or trashy. It is obvious that there is a lot going on here, but this perfume is not “muddy” or thick and strange like many “naturals” can be. It is multi-faceted and exceedingly gorgeous, creating a work of true ALCHEMY: turning the “lead” of many common raw ingredients into pure (parfum) gold!
This begins with a thick accord that is at once, ever so slightly, spicy but fresh and fruity. Sharp sweet and succulent citruses, their blooms and dried herbs are woven into a gauzy chemise type of robe that is colorful and catches your attention, as it billows gracefully, with its intensity and its sheer beauty. This is the costume in which she is dressed when she takes the stage. As the layers come off (to an undulating beat and haunting melody) she begins to show more of herself yes, but keeps some hidden as well, naughtily tantalizing you.
The heart of Mata Hari is a blend of sheer floral femininity, dry spices (that hint at her inner “fire”) and oriental blossoms (such as orchids and champaca) evoking the mystery of the Far East. Here she is open, every aspect of womanhood is being displayed: light innocent beauty, carnal sensuality, loving sweetness, amazing strength, a rather sharp (yet sassy) wittiness and a cool green earthiness…she is divine!! She is all women, she is ALL woman…she is Mata Hari and there will never be another.
The dry down (aka The REAL Mata Hari) is actually very masculine, yet sultry. It reminds me of one of those independent strong-minded ladies who was not afraid to barge into the “Old Boys Club” and have a brandy and cigar with the men! (Unheard of in those days) Warm, woody, musky, smoky and resinous; she let’s it all hang out, unafraid of judgement and able to hold her own and outshine them all. It is a true chypre in how it unfolds from fresh to floral to earthy.
Despite the obvious metaphor to the actual historical figure and an exotic dancer, do not let this review make you think this is just for the ladies! NO WAY…this perfume has more “balls” than anything on the market today, men’s OR women’s. I have sniffed many perfumes based on historical times, persons and eras, I can say (without a second thought) that DSH has captured the ideal, the persona and the essence of not only Mata Hari and her aura, but created something that is utterly unique, stunning and “to die for”. This perfume is haunting, it is amazing, it is…MAGNIFICENT!
Sillage: Good
Longevity: Amazing
Overall: 5/5 A True Masterpiece
Available only in perfume and perfume extract, this is definitely strong, but never overpowering. It projects just enough to give that “come hither” aura to it while making others go: “Wow! What smells so good?”. It lasts for a very very long time and with each successive sniff of my wrist (and there have been many!) I am always greeted with some new note, accord or aroma to savor. It has many sides and many faces and takes multiple wearings to really understand and appreciate it.
This review is the fourth time I have worn this, and I have only scratched the surface here, folks! My 1 ml sample is going to be gone soon. I look forward to getting the 5 ml Perfume after the holidays (what better use for Christmas cash?) and eventually (should it still be available) acquiring the 15 ml Perfume Extract. I have a very large collection and my tastes change from day to day, I can say; however, that this is something I will keep coming back to again and again. I am enchanted, I am under its spell…I am “hooked”!
karpeluk.ua – :
In one review DSH’s Mata Hari was called a masterpiece. The more I wear it the more I think that to be true! First I bought a small sample, then a 5 ml flask and then I just had to buy the 15ml. I can’t get enough of it. I am always surprised and pleased by the progression of the fragrance as I go through my day. It amazes me that Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was able to include so many notes and accords and still have everything work so well together as each element reveals itself individually and collectively. Brava!