Description
“UNE AMOURETTE IS A LOVE AFFAIR — IT WON’T LAST FOREVER, BUT IT’S UNFORGETTABLE.
It all began about eight years ago, on a cold winter evening, when Roland Mouret and his CEO Mark Langthorne came to the Etat Libre d’Orange offices, just above the boutique at 69 rue des Archives, Paris. He wanted to talk about a perfume with Etienne de Swardt, our creative director. Roland was a fan. He wore our parfum, and in a British newspaper article entitled “Little Black Book: Roland Mouret,” he wrote about us: “A unique parfum company that produces the best exclusive scents with a twist.”
On that evening, we talked fashion and fragrance and the possibility of creating a perfume for Roland’s brand. And since we were drinking champagne, incredibly brilliant ideas emerged from the discussion. We were all very excited.
But in the days to come, when we were sober and realistic, we all realized that the time wasn’t right. Etat Libre d’Orange had just completed a collaboration for Tom of Finland, and we were about to embark on another with Tilda Swinton. Following his phenomenal success with the Galaxy dress, Roland was creating more iconic dresses that would become equally celebrated: the Moon, Pigalle, Titanium, and many others.
But we never forgot that remarkable evening and the ideas that came out of it. And it seemed inevitable that we would come back together. We had so much in common! For both of us, collaborations were appealing challenges. Roland created collections for the Gap and Banana Republic. Etat Libre d’Orange has worked with the Tom of Finland foundation, with Tilda Swinton on Like this, with Rossy de Palma on Eau de Protection, with Mx Justin Vivian Bond on The Afternoon of a Faun. We collaborated to create Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade, and teamed up with perfume critic Chandler Burr to develop You or Someone Like You.
We both believe in a bold aesthetic, provocation, sensuality. We want our creations to enable clients to define themselves or become someone else. Roland drapes bodies — we drape skin. We use the same words: fusion, structure, magic, eroticism. We both have high profile fans. Roland talks about dressing to undress — and what better way is there to reveal the full power of a fragrance? Not to mention the fact that both our brands are creatively directed by hot, tempestuous Frenchmen. Etat Libre d’Orange and Roland Mouret. We’re made for each other. Together, we have merged our philosophies, our attitudes and our identities, and created Une Amourette.” – press information of ELDO.
The fragrance composition:
Neroli, Iris, Vanille Absolut, Akigalawood
Available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum.
Une Amourette Roland Mouret was launched in 2017. The nose behind this fragrance is Daniela (Roche) Andrier.
Billyjoe – :
dark, mysterious, smoky iris- neroli is not prominent-
La_Sergio – :
They are so many scents that describe themselves as ‘multi-faceted’, but this is a real one. Intense and airy, dark and bright, extravert and introvert – there are so many personalities in one. I fell all the aspects of the perfume – flowery, woody, powdery – and they create a new olfactory pattern on my skin every few hours. I tried it just last evening and bought it one hour later, it has a lot of character and enormous sillage. Flirty and vivacious, this ELDO gem i a real ‘amourette’ in a bottle!
carrera2010 – :
Opens up with heavy pepper & Vicks vapor rub combo on my skin. It made me think I bought the wrong fragrance,but then it quickly started developing into a smoky unique neroli concoction that is to die for,unfortunately like most it doesn’t last on my skin 4 hrs max maybe 6 if I’m indoors,but spraying heavily has solved that problem for me & I will be upgrading to a larger bottle ASAP.Thanks to Steve at scentbar for the recommendation!
slc973speagoessenda – :
super woody , sillage is monster not my cuppa tea but it is good
peps – :
Gorgeous. A woody musk (Akigalawood?) is dominant here and I’m loving it.
Neroli makes an entrance on the drydown. Long lasting on me too, and I have nothing Iike it in my collection. Nothing. When my husband first smelled it he said he loved it and he’s hard to please. So a win-win all around.
By the way, I admit to following gtabasso and her observant reviews. She is right on about this, and I thank her once again.
EDIT this has turned into one of my favorite perfumes, and if I was stranded on a deserted island, it’s one that I would hope to have with me.
orlyorlydavidov – :
first blast was camphor then it toned down and blended into a light woody floral with no distinct note; the wood dominates with a supporting hint of floral and no powdery effect but the iris lends it a creaminess
Констян777 – :
Somehow I am reminded of Horchata. There is pepper at the beginning but it ends up smoothly blended and comforting. There is a nuttiness to it and a suede-like leather impression. I also do not notice the patchouli or neroli – at least not the way they’ve been used in other fragrances I’ve tried
Vaskovtcev – :
I may have finally found my perfect scent from this house. This went on like strong nag champa incense on my skin and is a powdery, woody iris scent. As it has settled, oddly enough I am now also picking up the neroli. I really love this and will definitely be needing to add this to my collection. It’s not a loud scent but the sillage is respectable. I wish it lasted a little bit longer. Honestly though – I am really in love with this one.
гав_гав – :
Perfume marketing tends to induce tsunami-sized eye-rolls in me, so I have a love/meh relationship with Etat Libre d’Orange. Love the perfume, cringe at the ‘stories’ the brand gives each of its perfumes. The scene-setting melodrama can be interesting as a side-bar, but the ‘story’ is irrelevant to the experience of the perfume. So when a friend recently turned me on to Une Amourette I started the odd little two-step I find myself doing with most ELDO perfumes: enjoy the perfume and just ignore the story. But the dance takes enough effort that I eventually give in, read the text and have a laugh.
I had just written some quick notes for myself that started with, “It’s a lovely, conservatively proportioned floriental. A contemporary take on a traditional genre.” when I decided to take a peek at ELDO’s take on Une Amourette. There designer Roland Mouret’s is quoted: “Une Amourette is a no-holds-barred fragrance. It is not for everybody. It’s divisive. It will corrupt the fragrance category with its subversive positioning.” Oh, for fuck’s sake. Really?
Une Amourette isn’t divisive or subversive in the least. But you know what? It’s gorgeous. Forget corrupting categories and just dig the feel-goodness of Une Amourette–that’s where this perfume hits its stride. A peppery citrus opening is the freshest, though not necessarily the brightest moment of the perfume. Matte, spicy, creamy-powdered florals illuminate the perfume from within and transfer their glow to your skin. A mineralic vanilla-almond accord forms a backdrop for the skanky white florals and reminds me of the way Bellodgia set a spicy carnation against a chewy marzipan stage curtain for maximum effect. Here the result is less powdery, more mineralic and far more modern than comparison to the old Caron perfume might imply.
The heartnotes blend into a listless olfactory image of vintage suntan lotion. The particular combo of solar florals and creamy woods actually suggest a whipped-smooth beige or khaki tone. The almond-vanilla accord reinforces the image with a matte sand or putty tint, but perfumer Andrier takes a page from Coco Chanel’s book. What you notice in historical images of Chanel’s collections is not the plainness of the color but the uncluttered design, the perfect drape of the fabrics, the impeccable tailoring. The difference between the perfect beige and dinginess is slim and the potentially dull ‘color palette’ of Une Amourette could have been its downfall.
Like Chanel, Andrier’s manages to make the olfactory ‘color’ chic. She reassembles olfactory cues to shift from a beige hue to tanned skin, from flowers to sun tan lotion. The perfume’s easy finish and seamless transitions make it an effortless wear but don’t disguise the details. The floral accord’s heavily indolic breathiness reinforces suntan lotion’s implicit suggestion of parading flesh barely contained by swim trunks and bikinis. Andrier gives you skin and sun. Flirtation and exhibitionism. Skip Mouret’s story of corruption and subversion. Just dig the potential of Andrier’s suggestive scenario and fill in the rest for yourself.
(from scenthurdle.com)
Yes68 – :
I think this must be stuffed with Iso E Super. I say that because after spraying a small amount on my wrist I got a brief whiff of something vaguely woody and floral and then – nothing. Days later I put on the same sweater and I can smell something very dark, smoky and woody. Iso E Super, though I like it in tiny amounts, tends to shut my olfactory apparatus down and I guess that’s what’s happening here.
prg1976 – :
It’s pleasant, and quite elegant, but very light-weight. Lasts about 3 hours for me, but there’s no sillage at all. Disappointing.
Kastelanis – :
this one is exactly related to afternoon of faun and cologne from the same brand, an amazing perfume indeed but only for private time near to the body nothing further and too weak, it can make you happy for only half an hour but you know we would like to catch the happiness even if for a few minutes:)
thank you eldo you are the best
vitboy – :
Un Amourette is exactly the complete opposite of what niche is right now: pretentious and pompous. It’s pure, magical perfumery and a triumph of olfactive narrative. La liberte a son parfum!
jailiasia – :
AKIGALAWOOD was created by Givaudan, patchouli oil was added to an enzymatic bath, washed, and what remained, the new material, was patchouli with all the earthy herbal qualities removed. The spiciness and the woodiness are what predominates.
thumbs up for antonpan, scott.lauze and Sezyvex for their descritpions, I have nothing to add, except: I think this bizarre, georgeous, modern, FB worthy perfume is, IMHO, absolutely unisex.
хлам – :
I tried this today from a sample vial and it has put me in a dreamy, cosy state.
A swipe from the vial I get notes blended in perfect harmony; Cardamom and Cinnamon sticks (obviously it’s the Akigalawood which I have never smelled), the ones you put into Indian tea as a whole and the combination of these two spices releases an intoxicating aroma with some sweetness maybe from the vanilla.
In addition to those I smell and I think that the mix of iris and neroli give it that ever so slight detergent quality. It’s very faint but it’s there in the initial stages.
Initially I did think it had a peppery vibe but it was a passing feeling due to reading the reviews on here and then on second application, I didn’t get any pepper at all.
I see why some people are getting patchouli. It is akin to the patchouli in MFK’s Lumiere Noir Pour Homme which is barely perceivable in that too. Here it’s paired with the Iris instead of the rose. I could mistake this for a MFK creation if I had blind tested it.
Une Amourette could be my favourite from the line-up from ELDO from whatever I have tried so far. There’s something magical about it which I cannot describe and haven’t smelled before.
A close second is Eau De Protection. I feel both are hampered with projection and longevity issues with being really close to the skin that I have to really dig deeper. Having said that, I would still like to pursue a bottle of this because I think a few full sprays from an actual bottle would really satisfy and do justice to the feelings I already feel from a tiny dab.
ahtohahtoh – :
So weird! I am sniffing my wrist and reading the current reviews and wondering if we are smelling the same thing.
To me this is predominantly a woody oriental perfume.
Peppery: yes, for sure, almost an eye-watering pepper, but emphasizing the woody aspects, not the floral.
I detect no neroli, unless the perfumer used some exotic isolate.
Heart of vanilla is noticeable in the dry down, but it is not forward at all.
I am somewhat patchouli sensitive, and I smell no patchouli! And yet other reviewers are describing a patchouli festival! Perhaps there is a difference between patchouli and what is listed as a note: akigalawood?
To me this is quite abstract, contemporary, skews masculine, slightly weird in a good way.
Sillage is moderate, persistence is excellent.
spimberse – :
This is pepper in a bottle to me. Neither good nor bad – it’s fine on its own but I think it benefits by being layered with something else. Leans more towards the masculine than the feminine.
ladygin – :
Love this one. The best ELDO in years and a very Daniele Andrier’s style.
Akigalawood (=patchouli) is dominant here. Starts off with a nice freshly dark violet vibe, then the scent transforms into irisy patchouli with a vanilla heart but still not Dior Homme / DHI kind of sweetness. The green, minty character of patchouli is shadowed by a smoothiness of iris creating a leathery sensation in a style of Bottega Veneta fragrance.
A must try for patchouli lovers.
ganzhas – :
A patchouli with steroide in a very 80s style. A more transparent and flower’y Kouros