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sizov-aleksan – :
Unexpectedly – because that first burst is truly *pungent* and maybe even a bit too aggressive for my taste – I preferred this to Trudon Revolution (which I loved, but which is just my beloved Perfumer H Charcoal but with the rough edges sanded down.) Mortel is more of a one-off and not much like anything else I’ve tried, though it has some things in common with Piguet Casbah, to my nose.
Mortel is much more distinctive and even odder than Revolution – it somehow manages to be an intensely floral-herbal resin, which is a hybrid I hadn’t come across before. However Mortel is a bit of a challenge for a female user; it’s definitely wearable but the cistus note is seriously strong and verges on some moments on a whiff of a really manly aftershave. For the first hour I was ambivalent; after that it was all uphill and I liked it more and more and more. The whole scent has me seriously confused – like other reviewers below, I’m a bit flummoxed by how it can be both warm and so very cool and airy at the same time. It might be taken for a near-marine at some points – which is often kiss of death for me. HOWEVER. The spicing is gorgeous. It’s full of organic beauty. It’s one of a kind. Weird and intriguing. Unisex though skewing strongly male, with better longevity than Revolution (on me anyway.) Very definitely not a blind buy but I would lay bets it is someone’s very individual dream. Try before committing, and expect to be surprised.
sergey10 – :
Salty lapdanum.
It hits first with salty marine like whiffs and remains for few seconds till it gives the impression of incense by the olibanum, pepper, and cedar with hints of chilies.
It remains juicy salty with huge doses of myrrh, pepper, sandalwood, and chillies. Sometimes I feel I want to sneeze somehow! But not sure yet.
An interesting take of olibanum, myrrh, black pepper, and woody blend.
SHAITAN4uK – :
Beautiful! Probably one of the clearest and purest incense based fragrances ever created (HOM Devotion claims notwithstanding), this shimmering new beauty goes for a minimalist approach which works in spades. The incense here is blended with myrrh, benzoin and a hint of labdanum and woods. The resulting juice is a mystical beauty that simply radiates through your skin and gives you beatific joy. Moderate in sillage and projection and evocative without being overpowering, this is a bright uplifting incense creation unlike many brooding ones out there. Incense lovers need to make a dash to grab a bottle. Enjoy!
corsar211 – :
This whole line from Maison Trudon is so tasteful, so calm, tender and beautiful. I cannot add much more than the other reviewers, other than to second their observations and recommend this house strongly. Rare to see a new launch where each offering is strong and assured and truly represents a “brand” style. Bravo.
alienvi – :
The opening moment of Mortel on my skin, is dominated by the bracing earthy spiciness of black pepper, flanked by the warmth of pimento and the nutty roundness of nutmeg. The spices are hard to miss, but they are not sharp or aggressive at all. Instead, they induce a fuzzy warmth to the opening of Mortel.
During the first half hour, the frankincense and myrrh are already on the stage. But they’re firmly wrapped in this warm cashmere shawl of spices, and don’t have the aloof church incense vibe as CDG Avignon, Heeley Cardinal, etc. This fine-tuned warmth of spices manage to bring a human element to the otherwise cold frankincense and myrrh, without setting the resins on fire.
With time, the spices gradually loses the warmth and turn into an uplifting aromatic sheen over the cold resins. Complemented by this aromatic brightness, the frankincense and myrrh now fully display their shimmery, cool woodiness and date-like creaminess respectively. But again, they are never sharp as frankincense and myrrh sometimes can be. Instead, they form a diaphanous, pellucid skin scent of incense, cool but never aloof.
Mortel has a close-to-skin sillage almost right from the beginning, and it lasts around 6 hours on my skin. While I don’t particularly mind its performance, I do agree that it’s probably the weakest in this department among the five new releases of Trudon.
And this overall weak performance did impact my initial assessment. As I was smelling them together for the first time, Mortel was easily overwhelmed by its siblings and I didn’t think much of it. It was until later, when I wore it on its own, that I started to grasp its lovely nuances.
While Mortel doesn’t pack the same icy punch as CDG Avignon or Diptyque L’Eau Trois, it makes up for it by showing a tender heart. I especially appreciate its transition from earthy warmth to an aromatic coolness prompted by the spices, which feels like watching orange melt glass slowly cool down to a crystalline craft.
Although I suspect that fans of hardcore incense fragrances might find it a bit too soft, I do think Mortel is solidly made, and its “human (therefore mortel)” tenderness might even distinguish itself from other austere, cold-like-church-stone incense perfumes. I’d definitely recommend it as a more approachable incense fragrance.
bylvtrrra – :
Handsome, tasteful skin scent. Very Cire Trudon. Mortel is a scent that fits right into a room lit by only candlelight, filled with 17th century artifacts. It’s what Sir Leigh Teabing from The DaVinci Code would smell like. Begins with a woody, green papyrus note, fresh cut timber, nutmeg and an organic sweetness. Very quickly it develops into churchy incense muddled with rock rose and resins. Mortel seems to describe what a man’s skin might have smelled like, long ago, when the brand was founded. It has nuances of body odor in the same addictive way that Ernesto and Solis Rex candles do. The only thing I would change is the weak performance and projection. A missed oportunity to create something solid and sought after.
Саша Бородач – :
OMG! Cire Trudon ventures in the world of perfumes. I love all their scented candles so I wasn’t likely to be let down.
I have tried mortel directly on the skin. Olibanum, myrrh, benzoin. My three favourite essential oils. I couldn’t go wrong. It really reminds me of their candle « Spiritus Sancti ». It smells like a church. But they successfully translated it into a perfume. I love fragrances that smell « sacred ». Similarities with CDG Avignon are absolutely true. Although I wore the latter about 7 years ago so I could not tell precisely what makes them different. It also has a similar vibe to Eau Trois by Diptyque.My only concern with Mortel is its performance. I must say that the shop assistant sprayed it once and not very generously. After 4 hours it’s clearly closer than close to the skin. Considering its price I would be very careful and try it again before making a decision. But the scent itself is just gorgeous, totally out of this world and makes you directly a very special person.
kolgen – :
I get a woody frankincense with other supporting spicy/piquant notes and a some sweetness in the base from labdanum. Not as churchy or cold as CDG Avignon. Very smooth and refined but longevity wasn’t great. Maybe 4 hours. Nothing groundbreaking but a nice, sophisticated, wearable incense, perfect weight for all seasons, really, since its not smokey and is fairly sheer. I’d buy it if they made a smaller size or travel spray.