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petbastard – :
I realize as I become familiar with Angelo’s vision of work/art in his perfumes a pattern in what can be seen as eccentric, of dubious taste or even as a work of an enfant terrible (both in the most puerile sense of exposing the embarrassing as the unorthodox and avant-garde aspect). The fact is that all are just labels in which we, analytical beings as we are, try to fit and regain the control that was taken from us with something beyond the standard. It is a danger, however, for quick labeling can certainly deprive an interesting reflection and deeper thought. And it is precisely this rapid consumption of perfumery that O’Driu challenges.
The first attempt withKiss My Ass was precisely the lettering. “What Hell Angelo wanted in it? It would be a provocative response to send to hell those who, like me in the past, detract his work, since the term Kiss My Ass may have that connotation?” That’s what I asked myself right away, even before testing the scent on the skin. But again the words of the author himself in one of his interviews led me to reflect more on the subject. The conceptual goal here, in my understanding, focuses on two fronts: as an antidote to sensual and sexual sterile cliches that abound in contemporary perfumery and a kind of celebration of perfumery as something extremely intimate, exciting and somewhat controversial.
The controversial is a curious part perhaps because nudity and presence of butt accompanies man in the art since the early days but nowadays it seems to shock and annoy more than issues that really should disturb (such as social inequality, corruption, environmental destruction, the annihilation of identity in a mass society). And even with respect to nudity in conventional media is extremely curious that it’s heightenend the round and voluptuous form of butt, both male and female, but we see the anus as something dirty and shameful, and that gets more negative connotations than positive (think quantity insults in English using the word ass, for example).
Kiss My Ass Angelo Orazio Pregoni (from this point will be just called Kiss my ass) is somehow connected to a scent that explores the voluptuous, carnal and forbidden. In contemporary perfumery, it is curious that these issues seem to be related to the high use of natural essential oils and the presence of animalic aspects, which can be seen by some as less refined. It is important to remember, first, that this is the carnal and intimate view of the aromas of Angelo point of view. Therefore, the presence of herbs here is expected, and they take a leading role in the composition.
If you observe the aromatic profile of the essential oils of herbs such as oregano, thyme, wormwood and resins like galbanum you realize that there is a certain Animalic tone it along with the most sacred side, regenerative and protective that the aroma of the herbs and some resins have. Kiss my ass goes straight through this perspective for me, delivering herbs that reveal its broad spectrum of sensations – a more vegetable side moist, something a little Animalic and cut grass smell and ink. There are flowers certainly acting secondarily with touches of civet and musks to subtly enhance the fecal aura so that it is not something explicit, but engaging and enjoyable. As the scent evolves, you can see a masculine fougere aspect in the composition, which seems to focus mainly lavender and a starched aromatic impression that appears very little in current perfumes. Its end is the roundest and soft part, with the vanilllic creaminess that Angelo likes to explore in his compositions.
Kiss My Ass as an intimate exercise and denuded is a type of work that certainly reaches a smaller audience – so much so that its circulation is small, only 48 bottles. But as one of the statues of the painter and sculptor Bottero, he is confident in his voluptuousness and touchable nudity and offers it shamelessly and with all the quality to one willing to the experience – which in my opinion is very interesting.