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yzg099bedyWelty – :
Despite the official notes, Geisha Vanilla Hinoki reminds me so much of a cross between Tom Ford Black Orchid and Tom Ford Noir Anthracite, but a much softer and gentler version of both. A complex, woody vanilla, but very tasteful and well-done. Lasting but not overpowering.
tpe – :
This is a good quality vanilla, but not for me since I like my vanilla sweet. Hinoki has woody notes and I think it will be nice on a man too.
bovkun – :
A not-too-sweet citrusy vanilla. Something about the combination of ingredients strongly gives me the impression of ginger. The whole, though, doesn’t smell like something edible. I really love this one, especially in Fall. It’s uplifting and invigorating/uplifting and mellowing at the same time-like the briskness of an Autumn day with the grounding from the smell of dry leaves outside. I have the oil and the scent lasts for like 12 hours on me. I recommend and I’m not really a vanilla fan normally. Also, totally bizarre that vanilla isn’t in the note pyramid above!?
LUKA79J – :
Lovely, soft, fresh woodiness with natural sweetness.
The soft woody sweetness reminds me of Van Cleef and Arpel’s Bois d’Iris, but this is more natural, less sweet, with a juicy citrus quality that’s not tart but soothing.
It’s very relaxing, very slighty smoky aspect to the wood. You could happily wear this around folks who find perfume difficult or are allergic. Refined, natural and gentle. Easy to wear and perfect for dreamy autumn days.
Big like!
Svan109 – :
I am loving the spicy woodyness of this non sugar Vanilla. I get at least 6 hours and love the compliments I get all day
xiw671Negeltzex – :
I am loving the spicy woodyness of this non sugar Vanilla. I get at least 6 hours and love the compliments I get all day
Aaekk – :
I agree with much of AveParfum’s response below: this is a “non-foody” Vanilla. And I like that part very much and prefer these kinds of vanillas. I most like incense vanillas. So if you are looking for gourmand–do not look here. In fact, this is extremely inedible. While AveParfum is more positive in her review, I wish I could be as the notes are either ones I really like, or, they are interesting and ones that in theory I should like.
However, this scent conjures up two juxtaposing images: 1) my citronella candles that are outside warding off mosquitoes; 2) a massage with some kind of herbal oil, frequently used by various salons that has a hint of citrus, lavender, and warmth–a kind of “generic massage oil” smell. And it is mildly nauseating. The best I can do is imagine an outdoor massage with citronella candles burning. I have wondered a few times if this scent might actually have “insect repelling” qualities (from the Hinoki and the elemi along with the cedre). Many perfumes do, and there’s a list on Fragrantica, but this one is not as mainstream for that kind of testing.
So, the Hinoki wood is the most likely suspect along with the Amyris (elemi–which normally I really, really like) in creating a “Citronella Candle” effect. I have worn this several times in warm weather and in cooler weather (which I think amps it up a bit), and it’s just not for me. I would like to smell it on a man and see how it does with different chemistry–it may be better on someone else.
This is the darling right now of many perfume bloggers and perfumistas, but it’s a miss for me. However, though I rarely go off into raptures about bottles–the bottle is almost (almost) enough to make me pull out my pocketbook. Not quite–but it’s very pretty! These days in the land of post-modern bottle architecture, I’m delighted when a company moves away from the heavy, ponderous, generic glass and chrome look. Anything ornate, baroque, etc., is passe. Too bad. But I digress. This is low sillage and short to moderate longevity.
A definite try before you buy.
Messar – :
Lemony vanilla with low sillage.
Leriemnibra – :
Right from the start, I realized it was not the usual foody vanilla. There are some vanillas out there that *attempt* to veer away from gourmand territory and actually succeed. I happen to adore non-gourmand vanillas. Geisha Vanilla Hinoke hits the skin with bright citrus, the distinct scent of cypress, and the lightest touch of worn leather. With time, the citrus backs down to reveal more of the fragrant Japanese hinoki, which is a fascinating wood as it smells rich and intense, yet there is an aromatic green quality to it. Certainly the kind of wood I would imagine finding in a Japanese spa.
I can’t help but compare Geisha Vanilla Hinoke to other non-foodie vanillas. This type of vanilla has been attempted by Mona di Orio, but hers was all wood, so while it’s beautiful, there is no vanilla to be found, so I still have a hard time with the fact that it’s called “Vanille”. It’s easy to make a non-foody vanilla by removing the vanilla! Then there is Atelier’s Vanilla Insensee, a sweet vanilla mixed with beautiful woods and sharp, tangy citrus. While it is not my favorite non-foody vanilla due to its citric tang, it is successful, as the end result is a vanilla you would not want to eat. My two favorite non-foodie vanillas are the woody, smoky, incensy Vetyver 46 by Le Labo and the green and musty Vanille Absolument by L’Artisan, albeit the latter perfume smells like vanilla ice cream on some people; not on me.
I can now add Geisha Vanilla Hinoke to the exclusive non-foody vanilla list. It is not easy to turn vanilla into a scent that you wold not want to eat, but Maria McElroy has demonstrated exceptional skill in this task. There is a delicate complexity to this vanilla without going overboard with notes. Very admirable.