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feveFlese – :
More than just being inspired into the past to launch its collection (unfortunately discontinued at the present time), the store Auguste used three formulas from grasse perfumeres created during the years 1905 and 1920, in a way that the elegant porcelain bottles contains precious restorations of artistic works of the past made according the current materials and restrictions. Esprit de Chine is inspired on a vintage fragrance which was very succesful until the 70s – F. Millot Crepe de Chine.It makes me think of how the chemical revolution of the xx century, the aldehydes and the Chanel No 5 influenced the perfumery at that time. This fragrance has that vibrant and hard to explain touch of aldehydes – a mixture of talcum powder, imaginary flowers, clean soap aroma, candles, the soul of fruits. It’s an aldehydic misture similar to the one found in Chanel no 5, but the conducts to simpler floral body, which rose, lily touches and a slightly lilac sweetness.The base has a kind of musk and sandalwood combination that seems quite typucal of those fragrances – a little bit woody, creamy, with gum-like touch, something quite polished that shows itself very discreetl but quite persistent, creating a slightly warm aura surrounding its user. What you notice, however, that you are wearing something sinpired on the past and not comming directly from it due the considerably lower oakmoss volume – an essencial item to give that earthy touch on chypres and aldehydic chypres but unfortunately had to be reduced here due the current restrictions. To me, this is an interesting memoir of how much we owe to the perfumery at the turn of 1900’s to what we are and have at the current moment.
Spider – :
Esprit de Chine is such a refined, slightly oriental floral infused chypre. It is relatively quite, but complex and rich.
It starts with some floral sweetness, with a tiny bit cool powdery hint. Soon it becomes a discreat-rich-royal-floral soap without the traditional soapyness. I can smell a little bit lilac every now and then, and all the other floral notes are mixed so smoothly together that I cannot tell them apart.
The dry down is not as mossy and woody as I thought. It’s just slightly woodier than before, like smelling an old wooden makeup box which has only a trace of its woodness but soaked up many other floral ouder from the other things.
It is a interesting perfume that says China in a really lovely polite way, it has some oriental hint, but in a quite and inoffensive way(in comparison with India spicy shop). However, the image Esprit de Chine gives me is floral, rich, powdery, slightly dim(imaging going through those exquisite ancient archetectures in Beijing), and nostalgic.
I find it a quite versatile chypre floral and can be worn in any occasion. It’s something along the line with Chanel No.5(Parfum)and YSL Paris, but quieter.
Apply with a light hand, enjoy 🙂