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Wrall – :
Mmmh, I sprayed DILETTANTE this morning and I did once more in the afternoon, without reading anything about the materials before. I agree with other reviews above when I read of sharpness, green, indolic, somehow soapy in the middle, but this is not what I call a take on orange blossom, and I’d rather call this a Narcissus (daffodil): it has all the features of a specific and popular kind of a white narcissus with strong scent and small corolla, irregular double petals, and little yellow button in the centre, it’s called “Bridal Crown”. Anyway, great scent, very natural and smart.
*****
Mmmh, ho spruzzato DILETTANTE (Hiram Green) stamattina presto e l’ho rispruzzato ancora una volta nel pomeriggio, senza leggere nulla delle materie prime. Sono d’accordo con chi parla di impronta tagliente, verde, indolica, in qualche modo saponoso nel cuore, però non sembra un lavoro sul fiore d’arancio, piuttosto mi pare un bellissimo narciso, ha tutte le caratteristiche di un tipo specifico di narciso bianco dalla corolla ridotta in dimensioni ma con petali doppi e frastagliati, con profumo forte, e bottone giallo al centro, si chiama “Bridal Crown”, abbastanza comune. In ogni caso, un grande profumo, naturale, elegante.
fvd339Negeltzex – :
Not much to say about this one – it’s a good quality,
simple orange blossom scent. Stemmy petitgrain and snapped green leaf opening, a little sharp, then soapy yet smooth orange blossom/neroli. It’s clean and proper, fit for a young debutante or a traditional bride. A few hours in, the soap wax turns to beeswax. Average longevity and good projection (good longevity for a citrus cologne). So far all of the Hiram Green scents I’ve tried have been good quality and lovely smells – Dilettante was just a bit simple for my honey and spice loving nose, which was crying out for more notes in this composition.
Larrommaedums – :
Wore this again and realized it is a beast-mode fragrance, at least on skin. Sillage and longevity are unbelievable. Don’t over-spray, 2-3 max as this is strong. Unusual, at least in my experience, for a natural floral to have this kind of trait. I love it and am glad I blind-bought it.
serdjad – :
Very green and herbal.
vfm411JeomiWogkig – :
Beautiful citrus flower fragrance. The opening is very nice, stronger than I suspected. I do also get a kind of musky smell in the background which adds to its appeal to me. Not too flowery so very unisex, not too feminine at all. Smells very natural and I’m glad I have this in my collection, A definite keeper.
Bao_Hao – :
Truly exceptional! Fresh, on the tree orange blossom, with a splash of citrus in the strong opening. Quickly dries down to a sweet inhale of this wondrous flower – delicate with all the nuances of the real thing. It’s as if you took a sprig and tucked it behind your ear, the scent tantalizing your nose for hours. Already one of my all time favorites!
ereulov – :
A new rock star to represent the botanic genre. This is a syrupy floral and/or one of the few citrus where you don’t have to overspray. The opening hits you with that lush verdantness but quickly morphs into that likeable fresh neroli-like territory. This never becomes summarily white as the citrus accord hovers over everything like a superintendent. For such a heavy composition, this amazingly sits close to the skin. A fragrance possibly worth sacrificing for.
BowmerieDer – :
The assumption behind many indie brands is that a well turned-out line should have a broad range of styles. This generally leads to slot-filling, an unfortunate and unsuccessful tactic. Green takes a different tack. His four perfumes might look similar on paper—resinous florals of one type or another—but they vary considerably. Moon Bloom is a narcotic floral portrait, Shangri-La is dark fruity-floral chypre, Voyage is a resinous vanillic-floral. Green uses floral notes to investigate traditional genres that are ‘natural’ at their core, such as the chypre (bergamot, labdanum, moss) and the amber/oriental (resin, spice, flower). The perfumes are coherent as a collection, but their differences are quite noticeable, especially when the perfumes are compared side-to-side. The four perfumes have a similar aesthetic, but not a shared set of notes, or a house accord. For a set of four floral perfumes, there is surprisingly little overlap among them and I can easily imagine the brand’s customer buying more than one perfume.
Dilettante struck me instantly as a shrewd feel-good perfume. The joy and pleasure are direct and instantaneous, but the heart and basenotes follow with meticulous attention to dynamics and have some unexpected changes. The combination of spontaneity and precision hints at a methodical but inspired approach to composition. Dilettante ostensibly creates an idealized orange tree: flower, fruit, leaves, twigs and all. If it were just a pretty, plein-air exercise, it might reinforce the ‘perfume-lite’ bias against natural perfumery. Fortunately, there’s more to it. The fruity, green and floral notes fly at you and the perfume is unabashedly lovely, but it rotates through a range of other tones. Honeyed, woody, smokey, astringent facets undergird the heartnotes. The sweaty orange blossom salts the honey and adds a measured gourmand touch that lasts through the drydown.
Dilettante creates a very particular olfactory image (hallucination?) each time I wear it. It has the earthy/floral aroma of masa, the alkalized corn used to make sopes and tortillas. Fresh masa smells surprisingly floral, sweaty and honeyed in the same way that Dilettante does. This vegetal-floral tone enhances the animalism of the resinous base. Less animal ass than sweaty human neck. The far drydown of Dilettante is notable for two things. The first, that it exists at all. Few natural perfumes have the endurance to survive 12+ hours. The second is complexity. Dilettante’s honeyed drydown is as intricate as its singing topnotes but is richer and deeper.
I’d recommend the Hiram Green line for anyone interested in natural perfumes. More to the point, I’d recommend it to anyone simply looking for first-rate perfumery.
(from scenthurdle.com)
vul623speagoessenda – :
Orange blossom, citrus of heaven, and grand valley of lemon field. I can relate this fragrance to the secret garden with it’s vintage touch of Russian leather cologne and the harmony of niroli and orange blossoms.
Beautifully blended to simulates the modern era of cologne. To be specific, this is not a creation from the scratch but it is a blend that could capture senses and let you soar backwards through previous decades.
This house continuous to impress me with their superb creations.
You know, i really appreciate them for producing 9ml of their fragrances, as i always see that 50ml is a HUGE amount of fragrance while 100ml+ is an ENORMOUS BEAST that i don’t want to own. 9ml, 12ml, 15ml are always THE BEST size to own for me and i wish all creative perfumers take this into their consideration. Truly few people loves to own larger bottle sizes but there are people like me who likes to have smaller bottle sizes to enjoy the fragrances rather than keeping it for a longer time! new fresh patches are always better.
Edit (7th Jan 2017) This is slightly a modern “Phul-Nana” by Grossmith
Maksym24 – :
Agreed with Calvini on the very ‘sharp green’ opening- which is my favorite phase.
Dry down reminds me of honey & beeswax. Reading through Gardeniawhore’s review, I see s/he characterizes it as “the scent you get when inside one of the Chinese tea markets – a light, powdery, woody, somewhat earthy tea-like scent.” Yes- a honey’d tea accord is what I get too.
Projection & lasting power are superb. I’m a big fan of Naturals, and will continue to keep my eyes open for Hiram Green creations!
Andrej1 – :
I am just going to come right out and say it: Dilettante is a spectacular yet simple orange blossom perfume. It starts out like California sunshine, like a freshly plucked orange flower. The heart goes into soapy territory (I happen to love soapy scents), but the drydown…oooooohhhh the drydown! A surprisingly animalic, musky, velvety orange blossom. It smells like orange blossom combined with a very pungent, animalic honey and hints of wood. It didn’t seem quite animalic enough for me to believe that any natural animal essences, like civet, were used in the construction of the perfume, but at the same time I would believe it if someone told me they were there. The muskiness is undeniable. At first sillage was quite strong, then it became more of a personal scent. It easily lasted more than 12 hours on me without a touch-up. It is natural, yet it is not linear, despite the focus being clearly on orange blossom. Each phase is like a new way to enjoy the flower, but I am glad the musky drydown is by far the longest phase.
Dilettante is another 100% natural perfume that blows my mind with its beauty and longevity, further proving to me that it is wholly and completely unnecessary to use animal ingredients that were cruely/inhumanely harvested.
The artistry of this fragrance is undeniable. I am a life-long lover of orange blossoms, and Dilettante is one of the best out there. I never thought of an orange blossom perfume as sensual, but this one is indeed very sensual and intimate. Five gold stars for this rich, golden elixir!
krava-men123 – :
Not what I expected but truly lovely. Dark green, woody, indolic, sultry orange blossom in a style that harkens back to classic perfumery. I like to layer it with Jo Malone Orange Blossom to add a fresh, juicy aspect.
finansist1234 – :
It’s surprisingly sharp (green) and indolic (musky), very voluptuous for a citrus, kind of like Bergamask.
Neriemporgo – :
Actually, “dilettante” in Italian and French translates as “amateur”,”dabbler”, and other similar words, not to be confused with the Italian words for “delight”, which are “diletto” or “delizia”, or the French “délice”. So, I’m not really sure what Mr. Green means by this particular name being given to this perfume, unless it is meant to conjure within the wearer a feeling of being a person of extreme means who has the time to dabble in all manner of Fine Arts, eccentric studies, etc., without ever feeling the pressure of having to become particularly skilled at any one of them. The feeling of living a life of, well, a Gatsby type of person…perhaps. Someone who has the leisure to spend any given day basking in the glory of an orange grove in full bloom. A rather tall order for a perfume, I should say, but one that has been fulfilled by a certain few…dare I mention the one or two that I think?!
Opinions are so personal, and I try to remember that.
I must say that, being a perfumer myself who works exclusively with naturals, it is very hard to find an orange blossom absolute that even resembles the fresh-bloomed flowers, to say nothing of replicating the fragrance exactly. The worst of them smell like nothing but hexane and bad breath, while the best that I’ve found tend to smell like withered orange blossoms. A sort of dry, sweet/grassy note reminiscent of the dried orange blossoms or jasmine that one gets in green tea, which is not unpleasant, and can be worked with and buffered by other ingredients to supply the missing sweetness and mentholated “whoosh” that the fresh flowers have. As for neroli, which is the steam-distilled essence of orange blossom, I’ve not found one yet that doesn’t just smell like petigrain, and in fact, many neroli distillations are done using flowers, twigs, leaves, or some combination of these. It’s very rare to find a neroli prepared only with the flowers. Having made these observations, Dilettante does have a remarkably good and realistic orange flower note to it, at least for a while. On my skin, and to my nose, it soon goes to a powdery, slightly “funky” note of which I’m not overly fond, and also seems to be at odds with the notes listed above. Of course, perfumers are notorious for not telling you everything that goes into a composition – just the main notes. It would be interesting to know just what type of petigrain and orange was used, as they can all be quite different, the range being from very sweet to quite sour.
The extreme dry down ( 2 & 1/2 hrs ) is a bit similar to the scent you get when inside a Chinese tea market ( an authentic one, that is ) – a light, powdery, woody, somewhat earthy tea-like scent. It sort of reminds me of a good pu-erh tea I once had.
Dilettante also, at certain points in it’s evolution on the skin, bears a strong resemblance to Aftelier’s Palimpsest. ‘Resemblance’ being the operative word, that is.
airat121090 – :
!!!
My English Language Dictionary says:
Dilettante is someone who seems interested in a subject (I add; who seems expert in something; who wants to show sureness),especially in art, but who does not really knowvery much about it; use showing disapproval.EG:: He is really a dilettante rather than a working photographer.
In conclusion: a superficial. a beginner. in essence is a derogatory.
Well I don’t think that giving such name to a creation is a clever idea.
So it is the case to say: DILETTANTES!