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dpj246InsuffBooni – :
Dewaniya is so gloriously rich that you can smell it before you have pulled the stopper.
On application, we meet a dark, handsome prince of an attar, supremely confident and bold… defiant amongst ancient carved walls and intricately patterned carpets.
It evokes dark amber, black and red colours.
Layer open layer of rich smells: tobacco, honey, smoke, saffron, black tea, oud, rose and labdanum… twinkling with ambergris and uplifted by frankincense and myrrh.
Dark, sexy, complex and confident… Those who love Ame Sombre, Tabac Grande or Ambrecuir, amongst others, will no doubt love this masterful blend.
ANENERBE – :
Dewaniya is absolutely a marvel – truly a marvel in every sense of the word. It is a bag of tricks you simply cannot predict, and one which will dazzle you like many other creations of his with a slew of notes, each a wonder unto itself, and yet in a maximalist dance perfectly in sync with the grand amount of other notes simultaneously wishing to present to you their beauty – and yet it never feels like too much, nor does it feel overwhelming (except in the sense of beauty which simply brings tears to your eyes and a shiver to your spine.) To me, Dewaniya opens on my skin with first and foremost with a mixture of Cambodian oud and Indian oud (with perhaps the bengali oud making an appearance, although to be quite honest I have yet to have an isolated appraisal of Bengali oud, and as such its scent profile escapes me.) In addition, as if a swirling series of magnificent colors behind this heavenly vision of oud, one can make out: tobacco, saffron, honey, tea, rose, labdanum, osmanthus, jasmine, as well as some semi-green (citrusy?) elements dancing from what appears to be marigold, a dry and almost dusty feeling coming from what I believe to be hay, as well as loads of resins, animalic notes, and spices that seem to be literally neverending in the glory they insist on bringing to ones palate. There are distinct fruity aromas that evolve through the spices, animalic qualities, resins, and woods – there seem to be a peach-like effect in tune with some orange-blossom like tea which somehow seems distinct from the black tea quality which is still very much at play here, as well as green citrus notes which seem to be coming from some mixture of osmanthus and marigold which seem to have a bitter green quality beneath them that almost falls right into the jammy, sticky roses (which I believe is the absinthe, although I might be mistaken) which itself has a quality beside it of a fruity hay paired with honey and tea – and behind that even still there is a strong leather note which is very smoky and animalic, and yet it brings you to notice the oud right before your very eyes yet again. The Indian oud here seems to habitually call upon the dark woods, the earthy and resinous hyrax, the animalic and musky civet, the chewy tobacco, the dark roasted coffee, the smoky frankincense, and to a lesser extent, notes like semi-sweet semi-bitter saffron, and the hay whose dusty qualities spill over into the sweet vanillic benzoin, the ripe tonka beans, which lay spread out atop bright and beautiful cedarwood dripping in honey, with osmanthus and marigold calling upon the absolutely lush (in every sense of the word) roses, all of which pulls in the sweet and almost gourmand Cambodian oud which has flashes of a caramelized edge to it while still maintaining a dominant woody profile which again allows it to bleed back into the other elements dancing about this fragrance. Overall, I would describe this composition as celestial – it’s a representation of the organic movement of all that is, and the interconnected nature of elements differentiating themselves within a set totality – it’s about Yin and Yang – it’s about the majesty of scent itself – it’s no-mind meditation and yet a meditation that seeks to actualize through all that is. It’s an oud-centric attar that seeks to show just why this material is very precious – it’s not a price point, it’s an essentially intrinsic to the very object itself. This is very easily one of my very favorite fragrances from the line, and one of the fragrances through which one should truly pay attention throughout it’s entire duration, because it’s not just worth it, but it would be a tragedy to miss out on any element presented here. Wow. Just wow…
10/10
YT: Jess AndWesh