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gurew-1977 – :
To me this opens like a honey and toffee infused Kahlúa. It’s very boozy, nutty, vanillic, ambery and maintains a semi-sweet chocolate after-affect that follows the scent wherever it may go. The labdanum here is fairly strong coming from underneath the layers of sweet, nutty, boozy coffee, whose affects are quite strong here, and though coffee does come through loud and clear as a strong backbone to this fragrance, it nevertheless comes across as an alcoholic desert drink rather than a straightforward coffee beverage – it’s a decadent gourmand rather than the coffee grounds opening of Cafe Tuberosa, or the dense ‘dark’ note in Arquiste’s Nanban.
There are variations in the dense nectar that is Cafe Ambre Noir, such as a salty facet coming from the ambergris, a slight dark nutty/woodiness coming from the hindi oudh, from the beeswax occasionally there is a (excuse the term) waxy quality which is usually sharper and ‘cool’ when coming from notes like orris, but here combined with the sweetness from the honey it instead comes across like a candied exterior to the fragrance as a whole.
Rarely there is still another facet which seems to come from the Hyrax which adds a ‘musky’ or slightly earthy feeling to the fragrance, but it never becomes predominate nor fully fleshed out – and is fleeting at the edges of the fragrance.
The drydown of this fragrance primarily comes with a sugary, woody effect from the coffee drying atop the oud, combined with the labdanum, vanilla and amber which all hide together under a small amount of smokiness, which overall reminds me of a few other sweetened oud fragrances I have smelled before, and yet despite that CAN never feels cloying as I recall the others smelling, instead always simply maintaining a ‘rich’ and, as said before, decadent feeling which has the maturity of an adult beverage, rather than the bombastic, sharp, and immature feeling of adolescent sweets.
8/10
YT: Jess AndWesH
Realmiha – :
I am not a gourmie but addict to this! It smells better than Starbucks’ coffee –
rich coffee and rum opening with vanilla and amber drydown. I don’t need afternoon coffee fix anymore after wearing it.
Top: rum, coffee.
Middle: tea rose absolute, hyacinth, Cambodian oud, spices, tobacco, coffee.
Base: tonka absolute, white ambergris, beeswax, cocoa, aged patchouli, Bengali oud, musk, labdanum, Madagascan vanilla, Siamese benzoin, styrax, castoreum, cade, guaicwood, malt, coffee.