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The notes in Sweet Wood Desire are Indian agarwood CO2 extract, Indian cardamom essential, Indian labdanum essential, Canadian rosewood essential, New Caledonian sandalwood absolute, Brazilian tonka bear absolute, and Indonesian vetiver essential.
Like with Dirty Sinner, I immediately get this green, camphorous, almost menthylated note right off the top. It can lend a harshness to the overall scent. I can’t tell what it is from the ingredients, but the effect works a bit better with the jasmine in Dirty Sinner than it does with only woods. It wears off after ten or fifteen minutes, and into the heart and base it’s virtually gone. Despite the presence of tonka, I don’t get a lot of sweetness out of this until far into the dry down. The oud isn’t that skanky, animalic Laotian oud that smells like a freshly utilized barnyard. It’s been “domesticated” by the tamer sandalwood and rosewood. This is a dry combination of woods warmed with some aromatic cardamom to lighten things up. Everything is grounded in an earthy, woody vetiver that mixes with the woods very nicely once it appears.
Even though it there’s already enough going on here to keep the noise interested, I found myself missing that luscious jasmine sambac in Dirty Sinner, so this doesn’t rank quite as high on my list. I think Dirty Sinner will always be my reference scent for the Body Conjure line, and everything may inevitably get compared to it.
Because of the consistently high concentration of oils that Body Conjure uses (33% concentrated essentials, which is basically a parfum extrait), there is really no problem with longevity or projection. All the oils last beyond eight hours, and this is from someone who struggles to get six out of anything on the mainstream market or even more recognizable niche brands. I can’t really describe in words how the oils do this, but they wear with body heat better than anything I’ve ever worn before, going from potent to wispy skin scents over the course of their long life.