Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle

3.88 из 5
(40 отзывов)

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle

Rated 3.88 out of 5 based on 40 customer ratings
(40 customer reviews)

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle for women of Frederic Malle

SKU:  a098c03e5cfb Perfume Category:  . Fragrance Brand: Notes:  , , , , , , , .
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Description

Une Fleur de Cassie by Frederic Malle is a Floral fragrance for women. Une Fleur de Cassie was launched in 2000. The nose behind this fragrance is Dominique Ropion. The fragrance features mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla and cassis.

40 reviews for Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle

  1. :

    5 out of 5

    I’m not overly familiar with many of the prominent notes in this one, so it was a bit hard to discern what I was smelling. Aldehydes, yes – I enjoyed those. The other notes, I’m not sure they suited me. I would describe this one as a bit vegetal or herbal, even bitter. There is also cumin, which comes off quite pungent on me at first, but settles in nicely. On the other hand, it is also quite floral and definitely smooth and well-blended. This is one that you may need to spend some time with, as it is quite unique in its composition. But it is certainly worth a try.

  2. :

    3 out of 5

    Sigh, another disappointment for me. Something in Fleur de Cassie remains over-bright on my skin, probably the aldehydes which are always a problem for me.
    There are elements I like – the green feel, the herbacious quality, the smoothness of mimosa but aldehydes stop all of it developing or softening on my skin – so it’s just uncomfortable.

  3. :

    4 out of 5

    This is an art! Melancholic, intellectual, gloomy. Just wow!

  4. :

    4 out of 5

    Something super vegetal about this fragrance.
    I kept on digging for the powdery creaminess but all I found was a vegetal smell.

  5. :

    3 out of 5

    I’m not quite sure how exactly to describe this perfume, but I like it. It’s fairly dynamic and has kind of a fuzzy/powdery/indole vibe. I can see the retro floral feel. I do also like that it’s a powerful and rather complex floral with some depth that doesn’t just completely beat you over the head with it’s floralness. Very nice.

  6. :

    3 out of 5

    It should be noted, that I tested a very minute amount from a sample vial. I imagine that a full spray would be much stronger, so I can’t accurately comment about projection. I should also note that I tested this on one arm, and at the same time Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur on the other. It was actually a nice combination. MR had more projection considerably, but I also used more from the MR tester.
    That said, this is gentle, innocent, soft, and joyful. As odd as this may sound, it smells like a clean, powdered child in the sun. It evokes feelings of peace and serenity; as if everything will be alright in the world. Yet, it is also intriguing and sexy in a subtle, confident, and very classy way. It is not overt, and although it smells like child-like, I feel this would be more appropriate on a woman over 25. As it opens, aldehydes intertwine with a very realistic and heart-stopping mimosa that really makes me swoon. At the moment the mimosa note wins over the aldehydes, I wish I had more lung capacity to breath in this heavenly scent. Beyond the aldehydes, which are not even listed as a note, and the mimosa, I can detect a bit of creamy sandalwood and vanilla, a touch of cassis. Perhaps a hint of jasmine.
    I have tested hundreds of perfumes, due to an insatiable desire to want to smell EVERYTHING. I enjoy variety, and I haven’t reached for the same perfume bottle from one day to the next in over five years. That said, I love Une Fleur de Cassie so much that it has SIGNATURE potential! I could imagine wearing it for any occasion, all seasons, day or night. To sum it up, this is magical.

  7. :

    3 out of 5

    This perfume represents a fascinating intellectual exercise in perfumery. Last night after I put it on, I could not keep my nose off my wrist. It’s decadent and intoxicating — but definitely a niche product with little popular appeal.
    This is an old school retro smell, but certainly not in an outdated sort of way. Une Fleur de Cassie aims to evoke the “voluptuous, glamourous scents” of the 1930s, and that the Mimosa flower has a fragrance that’s “bestial, bordering on the coarse.” (On my skin, it starts with a strong jasmine absolute then moves to tuberose and mimosa.) The dustiness of the middle and basenotes do conjure the smell of makeup from that era.
    IMO Carnal Flower and Une Fleur de Cassie are like twin sisters; one light and one dark. Carnal Flower is fresh and light; like being in a flower shop floral cooler full of dreamy tuberose, while Une Fleur de Cassie on the other hand is like being in a mysterious, enchanted forest at night, by the light of the full moon. Thoroughly gorgeous, but a little dark, brooding, and complex. It’s so utterly bewitching. This stuff will have you inhaling deeply again and again, intoxicated by something that doesn’t feel quite right, but powerless to stop. I would most definitely classify this as a narcotic floral.

  8. :

    5 out of 5

    Une Fleur de Cassie is quite the beastly little flower, yet powdery and demure at the same time. It seems a contradiction, but this is as alluring as a fluffy yellow duckling playing in muck (if you find that type of thing appealing).
    Powdery floral, light yellow, but dense. Like warm humid air hanging low, not airy or celestial. In fact, it reminds me of the smell of bee pollen (the chunky granules you collect to eat) — a little sulfurous and fatty with hints of sweetness, greenery and flowers, scorched by sunlight; rich and intense.
    It’s also reminiscent of Donna Karan Gold but not as sweet. Une Fleur de Cassie is also much better balanced and has a strong musky vegetal indole. I pick up decaying narcissus more than mimosa or acacia, although the effect leaves a fantastic visual impression of mimosa’s dense, fluffy texture — deep, plush velvet diffuse with funk, softening into a musky floral that is ambrosial to wear.
    I think fuzzy honey bee fur smells like this. Or even the pollen baskets on the busy insect’s hind legs.
    Une Fleur de Cassie is a synaesthetic work of art.

  9. :

    4 out of 5

    When I first smelled this I was like “meh”. It was okay. Nothing to write home about.
    Was I mad?
    This stuff is absolutely glorious, floral from the gods, a balance of chic and dirty, of formal sublime florals combined with a casual earthiness that I can’t quite put my finger on. It’s beautiful with an edge….like a combination of the Queen and the King’s mistress. There is something tawdry mingling with the elegance. It’s like wearing an evening gown on a bus.
    I’m so thankful I didn’t give up on Cassie or write her off. This stuff is exquisite.

  10. :

    4 out of 5

    Nice but not worth the price as most of Malle aren’t. This is a mimosa, black locust, cassis leaf not fruit scent. A dry odd floral that is sweet and dry at the same time like a Serge Lutens. Pretty for a spring day.

  11. :

    4 out of 5

    Fleur de Cassie est ” mon ” EDPFM. Je le trouve terriblement addictif. Il est, de plus, empreint de beaucoup de nostalgie car il me fait inévitablement penser à une poupée que j’avais reçue en cadeau à Noël . Sur moi, UFDC me rappelle l’odeur quand j’ai déballé mon cadeau. J’aime le porter au printemps quand le soleil réchauffe ses notes florales absolues et lumineuses.

  12. :

    4 out of 5

    Something about thhis blend is strongly reminiscent of aldehydes in the initial blast despite not being mentioned as a note. The florals start to pop as it dries down.It’s beautifully blended so that none of the florals really stand out above the others, aside from the mimosa, which is such a soft non traditional floral that the fragrance defies comparison, imo. FBW. Classy af. This would be equally at home during a fine dining experience, running errands in a trench coat, and gardening wearing a giant straw hat in the sun.

  13. :

    5 out of 5

    Fragrance – Léon Frédéric – 1894

  14. :

    3 out of 5

    Dusty, dirty, disturbing. No question it’s a work of art with a very specific vision; for me however it’s not a love. There’s a stage to this scent, about 2hrs in, where I like it; and all seems harmonious and that it’s blending with my skin. Then I realise that’s fleeting and I’m once again freaked out by the wierdness and shock of it all, one minute it’s a pretty violet soap, the next it’s an unwashed, Louche, skanky, decaying vase of grey, grubby pink and off white / yellowing flowers with a hint of sci-fi plastic. Challenging but I admire the artistry.

  15. :

    4 out of 5

    The words not enough to describe this. Un Fleur de Cassie is full of melancholy flowers, artistical, stuck-up, unique! This is an example of modernt art in perfumery.It is an expropriator shadow for degenereted perfume world. This is why I really love Malle’s work. Sypmhonic!

  16. :

    3 out of 5

    A shameless mimosa.
    Literary reference: Madame Bovary

  17. :

    3 out of 5

    On the bottom of the bottle i have, there is a date, does it have an ingredient that goes bad sitting around to long?

  18. :

    3 out of 5

    This is too animalic for me.. If you’re looking for pure mimosa, try the one from Diptyque.

  19. :

    4 out of 5

    Venus at her Mirror : Diego Velázquez

  20. :

    5 out of 5

    Ropion knows how to make monster florals. Ysatis, Amarige, Alien. Jarring and disturbing to some, ravishing to others. (Count me in the disturbed category.) The key is in the synth-natural play of Ropion’s aesthetic. Take Amarige and Alien (co-authored with Laurent Bruyère). They are considered versions of the soliflor yet to my nose they are so unequivocally chemical in tone as to be science-fiction. Ropion’s mainstream florals are so exaggerated, so counterbalanced with potent synthetics that they can seem brittle. They might pay lip service to flowers, but their magnitude and mathematical sense of proportion mark them as artificial. The hyperbole of the accords will read as graceful to some and as frightening to others. If a flower is like a folk song, Ropion’s florals are Farinelli singing to Louis XV at Versailles.
    Ropion puts his ability to leverage floral tones to excellent use in Une Fleur de Cassie. It lacks the stiffness of Ysatis and the shrillness of Amarige but is equally, and proudly, as synthetic as either of the two. The name name might lead you to believe it’s an attempt at a soliflor, but the mix of an odd botanical note like cassie/mimosa with heavy synthetics makes Une Fleur de Cassie a cyborg of a perfume. It pairs scents of mud and metal, cinnamon and slate, almond and glue. The the bold use of seemingly disparate tones gives Une Fleur de Cassie a deep saturation. The balance of large strokes and detail allows it to be as large as Ysatis’s bouquet but far less overdressed.
    Une Fleur de Cassie showcases Ropion’s strength at calculating olfactory effects to the umpteenth decimal point. It is a remarkably intricate and precise perfume but the complexity doesn’t lead to obscurity. You don’t need a vocabulary of notes to read Une Fleur de Cassie. The legibility is in the clarity and accuracy of the olfactory aesthetics, not in the list of notes. To lean further into the opera analogy, Une Fleur de Cassie offers a satisfying experience whether you’ve read the libretto or not.
    For some perfumers working with a prestigious niche house is the opportunity to branch out from the obligatory mainstream sensibilities of their day jobs. For Ropion its a chance to hunker down and dig more deeply into a genre he’s known for. Frédéric Malle’s approach to art direction is to give the perfumer the resources to pursue his own direction and then to engage in a discussion during the perfume’s creation. It is a measured approach, one that favors a thoughtful composition over an outrageous one. Une Fleur de Cassie’s success is likely due to both Malle’s and Ropion’s input and was one of the perfumes that put the Malle brand at the center of attention when the line launched in 2000.

  21. :

    3 out of 5

    Dominique Ropion is a unique perfumist which I love because I really enjoyed it all works for Malle, nobody is currently working floral fragrances with the skill with which he does, from his brutal and hyper realistic Carnal Flowers to the offender “New Romantic “Fleur de Cassie sexy tremendously.
    It seems confusing, but in French literature of the eighteenth and nineteenth century cassia flower with mimosa was confused, so in this paper, is still maintained that sought confusion of old and queen of this floral bouquet is the yellow and fragrant flower mimosa Australian, as does the French writer Merimee to describing Carmen of which soon would become famous opera.
    The aroma of this cuddly feel powerful, bright and warm as the winter sun, golden like gold, sensual lips as Carmen.
    Ropion mimosa retains all its facets more features: honeyed and very dusty, colored by flowers like rose, jasmine, and a spicy note provided by the carnation, all topped off by the note of all of Cassie or yellow flower cassia, leaving impacting timidly like a forbidden glimpse and carnal love.
    The striking woody drydown is soft sandalwood becomes rubbery and animal to dramatize and emphasize the carnal, the sexual passion of Carmen that primarily feels free from bondage and possessive touch.
    Fleur de Cassie is a scent that is contracted to himself in search of freedom, transgressive because it is a different, unique aroma, where the root is taken from fragrances of the past but with a very avant-garde results.
    The duration is very good with a moderate but fairly accurate projection, with excellent qualities in terms of essences.
    The fragrance is the closest thing to wearing a couture dress, is a compact set, studied as a colossal work of engineering, very glamorous without being pretentious, is refined elegance, and though you do not like floral fragrances, not I do, because I love them, you have to surrender to works of art so compelling and unique as this Fleur de Cassie.
    Rating: 9.7

  22. :

    5 out of 5

    quando ho comprato questo profumo, l’ho spruzzato accidentalmente sulla maglietta di un mio amico che ha subito urlato, disgustato, che sembrava puzza di ascella. l’ho provato su di me e la sensazione è stata desolante, come se si trattasse di un corpo sporco, su cui si mette un profumo, datato, da vecchia signora, per coprire l’olezzo. confusa, sono corsa al computer per capirci qualcosa di più. ed ecco cosa ho scoperto: Mr Ropion lo scrive chiaramente. Semplicemente ha cercato di ricostruire quale fosse l’odore predominante in un bordello anni 30. ecco di cosa sa, esattamente questo. odore fortissimo di una donna sudata (il cumino!) che usa un profumo d’altri tempi floreale, sì, datato per l’appunto, per cercare di coprire la puzza. quello è. Ropion è un genio, senz’altro, ma il profumo è assolutamente inindossabile.

  23. :

    4 out of 5

    First of all, like many perfumes on this site that for whatever reason someone chose to misrepresent, this perfume is a shared perfume for men and women alike according to the creator.
    Back about 15 years ago I bought Gal Violet soaps from the Duty Free shop at the Madrid airport and fell in love the the tart violetty sparkly andahydic scent which even their own violet perfume did not have and vowed that if I even found anything similar that would be my signature scent. Well, one sniff of Une Fleur de Cassie and it was clear I had found it. I have always been totally in love with the violet-orris ionene-irone smell but this smell is a fresher perkier and a but more tart of a scent. And it seems to have the sparkle of andehydes. To me if there were such thing as violet sweettarts this is what they would be like. From start to finish I find this perfume to be sweet in a effervescent and refreshingly clean and invigorating way.
    As a perfumer I know the overall effect is there as a result of mimosa, cassie, carnation, rose, sandalwood, black locust, vanilla and car rant leaves but I find they are so well blended I cannot begin to smell them apart from each other. As far as I can smell Ropion as taken total command of his raw materials and has interwoven them so tightly that from beginning until it fades away a good 6+ hours after application we smell acacia flowers and nothing else.
    The sillage is a good distance that most anyone in your general vicinity will smell you but it is gentle and subtle enough that it is sure to be in a pleasing and gentle way. It is a very specific smell and I feel there will be a lot of lovers and a lot of haters and not a lot of people who feel impartial. Yet, for all those around you the smell is pleasant enough that even those who don’t care for it will not run for the nearest source of fresh air. So my advice is that if you like mimosa, acacia, and/or violet-orris to try a sample or even better a decant and see how you like it. Even though this is not am absolute favorite perfume and now my signature scent, I can certainly see why it is not for everybody. But for those of us who love it, it is a real masterpiece unlike any other perfume on the market, well worth the hefty price.

  24. :

    3 out of 5

    Soft, floral, powdery. This is a new perfume for me, I am a fan of DR and seemingly love his perfumes and this is no exception.
    This is not “in your face” but it is noticeable on application, the dry down is divine, maintaining it’s lightness but blooming into a warm cloud of loveliness.
    The mimosa and white floral notes are notably addictive and I love the peppery note of the carnation. The vanilla is not cloying, it just peeps through and the sandalwood is one of my favourite notes although it whispers and doesn’t dominate.
    On me this is very feminine although I know it’s a unisex fragrance.
    Exceptionally well balanced and note perfect.

  25. :

    4 out of 5

    This is the carnal flower to me.
    Carnal Flower ought to change its name to Une fleur de tubereuse.

  26. :

    4 out of 5

    I have had very different experiences with this perfume. When sprayed on the top of my arm late in the day the difficult aspect of this perfume was more noted: the sweaty cumin, not super intense but present. When sprayed on freshly washed dry skin of my inner wrist, it opened reminiscent of Apres L’ondee, misty and ethereal, and then bloomed into a warm, bright mimosa scent with less spice, somewhat powdery and sweet. I liked the first effect better. It has just enough cumin-y aspect to keep it from being just a pretty floral, but I find it very wearable, with its presence known without being overwhelming. Seems great for spring. It reminds me of a more minimalist version of Caron Aimez-Moi also by Dominique Ropion. I like that one as well. I bought the 10ml size.

  27. :

    3 out of 5

    A true, sublimely blended mimosa, true to the flower!
    I’ve had two tiny bottles of mimosa oil over the years, based on curiosity from a reference in the 1940’s film The Uninvited in which the heroine/ingenue’s ghost mother announced her appearance with the warm smell of Spanish mimosa. One tiny vial was from ca. 1977 and the other recent from Artisan Aromatics.
    Both have indeed been warm, “plump”, slightly animalic, drily sweet, leathery.
    Une Fleur de Cassis is dead-on mimosa with little supporting cast. It’s drying down softly with maybe a bit of wood and a gentle spice note.
    Glorious!
    Je vous aime, chér Dominique!!!

  28. :

    3 out of 5

    A cold salon at dawn in New York.
    Melancholy wafts of flowers right before their wilting sets in. Used stockings thrown on a chair, a short sleep has set off their wearer. All windows are closed.
    Within an hour a maid will enter the building, very softly.

  29. :

    3 out of 5

    My second attempt at Malle. Hit a home run this time. Very beautiful casual, ladylike scent. Little old school but I am beginning to think my signature.
    Light floral, I smell mainly mimosa powdery and comfortable. I highly recommend!

  30. :

    4 out of 5

    So far, this is the only scent from the well-loved Malle line that I can really appreciate.
    UFdC starts out with a natural-smelling mimosa—buttery yellow, somewhat stemmy, a bit oily. However, there’s a grain-like substantiality beneath it—a kind of meal effect that counters the mimosa and elevates the scent above that of a simple floral portrait. Wearing it is peculiar in that it tricks you into thinking it’s a simple linear accord when, in fact, there’s a lot going on to sustain the effect it produces.
    While there’s a slight sourness upfront (cuminaldehyde, I suspect), the fragrance is generally warm—almost nutritious-smelling without being a gourmand; a textural, haptic kind of thing akin to a powdered shrub crossed with almonds and glue. It smells, to me, a bit like an untenanted field, or even a pile of discarded flowers left to rot in a damp space. This is the kind of scent that draws you in based on morbid curiosity, and then succeeds in convincing you that its unorthodox beauty is more durable and substantive than that of “prettier” flowers—the kind of beauty that’s stoic, learned, and lasting. It’s not traditionally “nice,” but it’s moving all the same.
    I find it to be less of an abstract composition, and it doesn’t feel particularly tied to a time period to me, but it does trigger in my mind the painterly style of impressionism. There are great dynamics within it—golden hues and glimmers of light—yet it never really permits you to gain a complete grasp of what it’s doing. Variants of the image it conjures up slip back and forth like an olfactory View-Master, but the enveloping impression remains throughout—buttery, indolic, golden yellow, desaturated sepia. A bit musty and sour, and there’s little superficial appeal to be found, but this is rewardingly original—the kind of thing you’ll want to smell again and again just to remind yourself that such a scent is a thing that exists in the world.

  31. :

    4 out of 5

    As soon as I put Une Fleur de Cassie on I knew – this is it, I have finally found F. Malle perfume for myself, but only until I experienced drydown I was totally and utterly in love. Today I wear a different perfume, but I cannot think of anything else but Une Fleur de Cassie, so it must be love. The smell of yesterday remained all over my son’s T-shirt and it’s been calling me across the room the whole day today, magically, as if it’s Sauron and I am Frodo, the poor ring bearer, trying to resist the calling… only the calling is beautiful, not dreadful 😀
    Another interesting thing is that I cannot bring myself to over-analyze this fragrance. I can only say it smells as retro as something a grandma could wear (violet, carnation), but at the same time it is daring (cumin, cassis), it is passionate (cassie, black locust, jasmine), full of emotions (rose) and warmth (sandalwood, vanilla, musk). It is dirty, spoiled, compromised, it is pure, innocent, sweet, it’s womanly and childlike. It is a wild, complex fragrance with the most touching, angelic drydown and the amplitude and the range of emotions it is capable of stirring is simply amazing…
    After initial blast the sillage is moderate on my skin, but longevity is great; it wraps around me like a gentle, warm hug.
    I don’t ever want to be without it (OMG I really sound crazed and in love LOL).
    *Thanks to a lovely fellow Fragrantican for this fantastic olfactory opportunity.*

  32. :

    5 out of 5

    Effectively a perfect fragrance. I was wary and put off by the first few minutes of this perfume for far too long. Friends convinced me to give more time. Jesus where they right to. The opening clay-like eugenol heavy blast coalesces into one of the most intensely beautiful fragrances ever composed I think.
    The mimosa is hay like, grassy, honeyed and tobacco-esque. Soft and slightly powdery this mimosa dominated drydown phase is so good you’ll want to drink it. What follows is equally beautiful- white florals. But not the sweet succulent kind of modern perfumery, instead this is pollen laden, powdery, sunset dappled stuff of the past, though not Indolic especially. sweet but not so sweet they become saccharine. The eugenol/carnation continues to make momentary comebacks but the mimosa has blossomed as the sun sets into something from the nightshade family almost.
    This fragrance is so achingly soft and melancholy and sophisticated. I’ve described this as evoking the light of a setting sun through slatted wooden shutters on the windows of a decrepit but once plush journalist’s club bar in the tropics somewhere with lizards eyeballing you from the walls and the refractions of that golden light from tumblers full of whiskey being drunk playing across the ceiling. If you throw in the smell of the freshly drenched soil from outside wetted by some tropical downpour and the exudations of night scented flowers in trees around and about with the oncoming of night you’ll have a good idea of this perfume’s magical effect.
    Be brave, endure the opening if you find it too much, and wait for this perfect perfume to bloom on you and transport you.
    It has excellent longevity, good sillage, and is perfect for those times you want to create a melancholy glamour for yourself.

  33. :

    4 out of 5

    Une Fleur de Cassie smells amazing to me. There are many controversial reviews on this one. To me it is not challenging in the least. It is a modern twist on the classic powdery fragrance and smells much more natural and softer than the aldehydic classics we love.
    In the beginning it smells like cardboard but when it dries down you can smell some spice and the delicate scent of mimosa flowers which adds some sweetness and cheer to the blend.Delightful!
    Worthy of at least one sniff.

  34. :

    5 out of 5

    I’ve had this fragrance for a long time and had worn it only a few times in the past, but never with the intention of really “wearing” it or getting to know it. I just reached for it when I wanted to wear something different.
    It’s bright, sweet, feminine, and makes me feel VERY happy when I wear it. The first time I wore it, I swear I felt more friendly, more pretty, and like I couldn’t stop talking.
    This is actually the first fragrance that I’ve experienced with mimose taking on a leading role and I like it.
    It’s sparkly like soda. Warm like the sun, and sweet like…(i don’t know you fill it in here).
    This is a very, very, very friendly fragrance.
    I applied it before boarding a flight from LA to NY with a ridiculous layover and it lasted about 9-10 hours.
    This along with Apres L’Ondee are two fragrances that I use sparingly because I don’t want to run out. I teeter between this being a show-stopper and just an interesting scent, but it’s one that I plan to keep in my collection for a long time!

  35. :

    4 out of 5

    Une fleur de Cassie (UFDC) might be the most difficult perfume I have come across so far. I love me some skanky beasts and heavy chypres but UFDC took me by surprise as it is completely different to what I had imagined. In my mind it would be evocative of old Caron’s in their full glory, (silly, I know) and a film noir perfume to be worn by daring personalities. Needless to say my imagination was also fed by the fact that it was very hard to come by during some time last year, due to the fact that it was being reformulated, something that Malle himself has confirmed. When I finally got a sample after supplies became available again I was a little underwhelmed. Is this what I was waiting for? This is the fragrance that was on top of my wish list for so long? I quickly buried my sample until a month ago when I decided to give it some proper testing. The first time I got vanilla and lots of rose, but I believe that heat or slightly warm temperatures allow this perfume to bloom and show its true face. That’s when I started to fall in love. My skin amplifies animalic or dirty notes, and UFDC has them in abundance. I get a faint bergamot opening, more herbal than crisp and fresh, followed by a very sensual ‘barnyard’ smell. The smell of horses, animals and hay. It doesn’t smell as scary as it might sound but it is highly animalic and very evocative of my childhood in a way, when I would visit the zoo. It might not be what Ropion intended but the smell is there and it lasts for a good 30 minutes or so, intertwined with the bergamot which appears in and out to give a touch of freshness. Slowly the flowers start to show. I get jasmine and rose, and a pollen powdery smell which I guess is the mimosa. They don’t feel in your face, more like highly refined essential oils that give glow and smoothness to the fragrance without overpowering anything else. It keeps the barnyard aspect but now I see the film noir persona I was hoping for, and I can clearly relate it to the 30s and 40s, imagining that this is what the elegant women of the decade would wear. UFDC remains pretty linear on my skin, with slight variations as to the opening 30 minutes. Along the 10+ hours it lasts on my skin (the longest lasting Malle I’ve tried) I get a floral animalic oriental. Sometimes more rose, others more powder, always full animal with hints of bergamot. Stunning. It’s on top of my buy list, as I think this is one of the hidden gems of the collection and one of the best creations of D. Ropion. If you like vintages and chypres and orientals of yore, give it a lot of skin time. You may not fall in love like I did but I believe you will discover a gem of modern perfumery.

  36. :

    3 out of 5

    Disgusting, repulsive, I had to wash my hands as soon as I tried it. It reminds me of my old Latin teacher who was wearing fur until late May: I hated her for the acrid smell that emanated. Well, this fragrance reminds me of that old lady. I do not like at all.

  37. :

    5 out of 5

    MASTERPIECE!
    If you love Mimosa flowers and aldehydes, you HAVE TO try this one.
    It is marketed as a woman’s perfume, but I am a (daring) dandy man and I love it.
    Initially I was confused by the name and thought of the also yellow flowering Cassia plant, but it is an abstract perfumery creation of the flower of Cassis, the black currant plant. Correct me if I am wrong, but I cannot imagine the Cassis flower (that are rather unspectacular doldrums of mini greenish/ white flowers on the bush). The berry fruits as we know however have very potent olfactory qualities and so do have the leaves. (The fruits have tons of vitamin C by the way. More than any other European fruit, I believe).
    Locust and Mimosa form the powdery and powerful top of the bouquet but you can also make out a lovely soft rose and a very faint jasmine. The soapiness, triggered by aldehydes and perhaps the dry sandalwood note, perfectly juxtapose and balance the initial sweetness.
    A joyful, enticing pleasure to wear this time of year in early spring if you want something strong, yet sharp and unusual.
    Try also AMOUAGE “Library Collecton OPUS III” which is a similar direction yet much sweeter and wetter and warm-woodier.
    Cannot rate this highly enough! 10/10

  38. :

    4 out of 5

    I love many of the Malles, but this one and I do not match chemistry wise. All I get from this scent is an initial awful fecal note from funky indoles and finally a bit of warm woods in the drydown that is nice, a bit of carnation and still the remnants of that bad smell from the topnotes. Definitely not a scent for me. Give me my L’eau de Hiver, please!!

  39. :

    4 out of 5

    Dominique Ropion is a genius of a perfumer.
    He is also a sorcerer.
    Une Fleur de Cassie could have been formulated during a full moon on the midnight hour. In a hidden back room of an apothecary in the Dark Ages. Its ingredients forbidden, sourced from the deepest recess of a forest where even the brave dare not tread. Amongst them, black locust, which if it were the insect rather than the flower, I’d actually be more inclined to believe to be true.
    Enigmatic and cyptic, this is a floral that’s more pollen than flower, herbal without the presence of herbs and has a strange bitterness that you don’t just smell but taste – permeating beyond the nasal cavity into the mouth and coating the tongue. All is not as it seems.
    And yet..it’s so utterly bewitching. Like the car crash you just can’t avert your gaze from, this will have you inhaling deeply again and again, intoxicated by something that doesn’t feel quite right, but powerless to stop.
    It will confuse, frustrate, lurk in the shadows and do its utmost to resist revealing its secrets. But it will also ensnare and beguile you.
    Un Fleur de Cassie is a mirage in the Malle line, the outlier, the one you perpetually overlook at the perfume counter for no discernible reason, the one you never get round to testing from your various sample vials. Once you do, however, you’ll never forget it.
    I don’t want a bottle; I need a bottle.

  40. :

    5 out of 5

    This is like crawling into a hammock under some flowering trees and being breathed on by someone who’s just spent the afternoon taking a really satisfying nap. It’s totally uncanny and off the wall. I almost never want to wear another perfume again.
    EDIT: This is my favorite, I ne

Une Fleur de Cassie Frederic Malle

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