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alenanelly – :
I recently discovered the Adagio Teas signature blend capacity. I am creating a series of white teas to commemorate HRH Emperor Oliver, who on September 16, 2013, took leave of those of us trapped in terrestriality. How am I designing these teas? By combining “good stuff” in a variety of different ways. Do I know anything about tea blending? No. I only know what I like, as they say. But because the ingredients are good, my “signature blends” are turning out to be potable brews.
It’s becoming increasingly clear that Michael Boadi is the King of Permutational Perfumery. This is a mode of perfume production very different from what was done in the twentieth century. The permutational method of perfume design involves establishing a palette of fine ingredients which produce a set of good-smelling notes: rose, white, saffron, gardenia, oud, black, leather, amber, musk, vetiver, etc., and combining them in every conceivable way. (You may have noticed that Montale has done the same…)
The number of possibilities is limited only by combinatorics. Start out with a large palette of “notes”, and you can design dozens or even hundreds of new perfumes in only a few years’ time, which is precisely what Michael Boadi (and Pierre Montale/William Shakespeare) have done.
White Saffron smells good, like most of the Illuminum perfumes. Why? Because it involves the combination of good stuff. In this case there’s some of the good house musk, and a dose of the promised saffron, and some nice floral notes thrown in as well. So basically the recipe is simple: take some new combination of any proportion of good stuff, and stir it together. That has got to be Michael Boadi’s modus operandi. He cannot possibly spend very much time on these creations, because he is but one man, and human beings are finite. They inhabit a world structured by the twenty-four hour day. In all likelihood, he sleeps just like everyone else. He cannot be spending more than a few days, therefore, on any of his creations. Yet they do smell pretty good.
Why does this strategy work? Because the vast majority of people just want to smell good. That’s it. They are not looking for chefs-d’oeuvre of “olfactory art”. No, they just want to smell good. Perfume houses may seize on the “perfume is art” gimmick to increase their sales to those perfumistas enamored of the idea that perfume is about something more than smelling good, but really it’s just another marketing gimmick, not unlike enlisting beautiful models to pose with a perfume so that people will associate the attractive image with the scent and probably hope that by wearing the scent they will resemble the beautiful people depicted. Charging exorbitant prices, too, is a gimmick, because people want to believe that they have not been fleeced. Presenting perfume in bling-encrusted bottles, too, is a gimmick, because people want to believe that they partake of true luxury. The list of such marketing tactics goes on and on…
Nothing wrong with any of this, of course. Perfumery is, first and foremost, a business. No holds are barred when it comes to selling one’s wares. Sex sells, stories sell, art sells: all of these are marketing strategies, it seems to me.
LaWElove – :
I came across this brand in House of Fraser Westfield, and I was immediately drawn to this perfume because the jasmine and musk notes. Wet this smells of soft florals and the jasmine is lovely and quite clean but as it began to dry down all I smelt was rose…and that’s how it stayed for at least 3 hours.
I cannot fault the silage on this one its between moderate to heavy and impressive. An hour after putting one spray of this on my hand my friend walked by and asked whether the rose smell was me – it most certainly was. Unfortunately there was nothing complex or enchanting about this rose smell and I simply washed my hands of it but will definitely check out the other scents in this range – Tomato leaf smelled promising.