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_Vampire_ – :
Launched in February 2018, Violette has, as inspiration, the famous violet flower. But anyone who thinks that this fragrance tries to recreate the smell of the flower or the leaves will be disappointed. Here, the violet was worked as a concept, a color, and its nuances, among them, the sweeter.
Violette has notes of coconut, plum, peach and mandarin, at the exit; notes of violets, rose of Bulgaria, Jasmine Sambac and caramel, in the body; notes of amber, Bourbon vanilla and sandalwood from Mysore at the base.
And as I did in the analysis of the Malabar perfume, I would like to clarify a few points before talking about the fragrance and its behavior on my skin: Gabriel is not the responsible perfumer, as many are saying. Who gave life to this perfume was Luciana Bergamasco, perfumer of Vollmens, which is a Brazilian fragrance house. But it is wonderful to see such involvement because we often extol the “masters” who create the formulas, but we forget to praise who creates the concept and draws the briefing behind hundreds of fragrances of worldwide success. And unfortunately, this type of professional does not usually have his/her name disclosed.
Now, with these releases, it is clear the importance of who develops the project and need to have contact with various fragrances, something that was easier for Gabriel, since he owns perfume stores that work with the most famous brands, focused for the general audience, in addition to others of the niche perfumery. In short, in this perfumed orchestra, Gabriel represents the conductor.
For Violette, Gabriel thought of a floriental bomb, in which the caramel exploded with all its gourmand glory. To do this, the perfumer had to work on the compound Ethyl Maltol, responsible for the famous sweet scent of numerous fragrances, which may smell like cotton candy or burnt sugar. And to get the result expected by the creator, more than 250 essays were necessary, according to information that he gave to me (thanks for the trust, Gabriel!).
The result is a sensual and sweet perfume, which will make you think of being more of the same, because the output is sweet and reminiscent of those fragrances with synthetic vanilla, you know? But wait a little and let the magic happen. The plum and coconut notes take time to show their real value. It seems that the caramel arrives in front of everything, desperate for a medal that does not exist because there is no finish line. Then, the peach brings a milky nuance and the evolution begins to unfold, slowly.
After a long time on the skin, the second stage of evolution brings a floral bouquet, in which the jasmine shines beautifully, knocking down even the reign of the rose. But it is not a green or rough jasmine. It is sweet and carnal, almost velvety. And over this velvet drops a warm, almost melted caramel. This is where the mouth fills with water and we understand the central idea behind the creation. And the journey continues towards a creamier base, with all the power of the vanilla and the amber, stamping the oriental style.
In my opinion, Violette does not have the same refinement of Malabar, which resembles niche Arabian fragrances. Here, there is a much more commercial appeal, but with less of the plastic aspect. In contrast, Violette beats the other, both in projection and durability. In fact, less is more, you see? This perfume exhales, exhales, exhales, exhales, exhales…and exhales. Like I said back there: “there is no finish line”.
Violette was made to be marketed without distinction of gender, but will please the female audience more, without a doubt! If you are a fan of Bonbon (Viktor & Rolf) you are going to like this one.
To conclude, another information full of exclusivity: the fragrance has 23% of essence, which would be enough to be classified as Parfum, according to the standard classification of the world perfumery until recently. But as this market is changing and companies are shaping to it, the Creative-director himself thought it was better to opt for EDP rating, maintaining a more familiar approach to the Brazilian consumer.