Description
Violette Fumee is the fragrance created by Mona di Orio and dedicated to Jeroenu Oude Sougoteu with whom she founded the house of Maison Mona di Orio. The fragrance was presented in 2013 at Fragranza 11, at truly interesting design of stand Campomarzio 70, which also hosted Yosh, Amorvero, Memo, Brecourt, Cire Trudon, Fueguia 1833 and Vero Profumo.
Mona di Orio Violette Fumee belongs to the collection of Mona Di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Exclusive and is available as 100ml EDP Intense at the announced price of 230 eur. Its compsoition accentuates violets, tobacco and rose.
Jeroen says that Mona created melody of his favorite passions, memories and raw materials. Violet flowers and rose flirt with tobacco for pipes, while its irresistible saturation is provided by suede and cashmeran. Deep and war shades of resin warm us seductively while evoking his love of luxury, making him dream, travel and remember…
Notes:
Mediterranean lavender, Calabrian bergamot, oak moss from the Balkans;
violet flowers from Egypt, violet leaves from Egypt, Turkish rose, vetiver from Haiti, clary sage;
opoponax and myrrh from Somalia, cashmeran
The fragrance has been on the market since September 2013.
denis_95 – :
It opens with smoked leather on my skin. The leather becomes weaker staying in the background and really beautiful accords of violet and strong lavender develop later and turn actually more soapy than powdery on a green-vetiver base. I love the way lavender exposes herself here. Really beautiful and sensible composition, incredibly fine and feminine. It is a very discrete fragrance. Silage and longevity could be a little better though for the price.
Marcel Chistruga – :
Violette Fumee is such a lovely, feminine perfume. On the whole it fits the soft and powdery profile, yet it’s anything but ordinary. If you take a closer look, there is much going on beneath the surface. At first it smells like violet pastilles. As it develops it takes on an interesting oiliness. I was reminded of the greasy creaminess of mayonaise when it has been sitting out too long and starts to become a bit transparent.
At first I struggled to find any “Fumee”. Violette Fumee is not obviously smoky as I thought it would be. Instead the smoke is extremely subtle and seems like it’s an effect caused by a few of these ingredients when they are combined, rather than, for example, a synthetic smoky ingredient that is blended into the composition.
I pick up a lot of vetiver in the heart. Where vetiver can be sour, here is it used with great skill to the point where it really doesn’t jump out at you, but it’s very obvious if you make an effort to seek it. I really loved the drydown when all of these elements combined and deepened on my skin.
This is just an incredibly beautiful and understated fragrance. It’s the kind of thing I would wear if I were out shopping in Paris. I feel very impressed with the skill of the nose. Violette Fumee is beautifully composed.
Just to compare, I felt there were major similarities with the magnificent Violette Sacre by Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orange. Violette Sacree is more intense, more smoky, much more woody. It smells more natural whereas Violette Fumee feels more like you’re wearing something perfumey. But if you like the idea of a smoky, creamy, woody violette, these are both excellent.
igan44 – :
Violets on a soft clean leather base with saffron adding the hint of smokiness, this is one seriously pretty and whimsical fragrance, fit for a delicate princess with ESP.
Amigo01 – :
Beautiful fragrance from Mona !!
The entrance already feels floral-streaked with a fern touch.
The effect is given by the lavender and violet that is already tinged and with a slight contribution of luster by the bergamot (precious combination) and another dark touch by the moss.
Then it softens and begins to increase the smoky-woody note on the floral effect and the fragrance begins to darken like the sunset of a cloudy day.
The body of the drying is quite oriental and somewhat monotonous, begin to appear woody notes like the vetiver leaves its smoky mark and notes very balsamic as the opopanax that ends up dominating all the drying with a warm feeling of coat, in less effect it feels the Myrrh and cashmere that produces a musky effect so that it neutralizes well and engages with the skin.
Fragrance that deals with a theme already seen and trite, but this work of Mona, in addition to having excellent qualities and a fairly good duration, has been original, very well mixed, serious work and with a different vision to the typical treatment of The violet spice or iris.
Rating: 8
vlasikdj – :
This is not a smoky violet, but a violet smoke.
Today this thing grabbed by entrails and twisted them to the painful place where nostalgia swirls high, and your soul is whimpering with both expansive delight and the insecurity of a newborn.
– I am officially ISO, so if you have a bottle you’re not using in the US, please give me a sign.
1fog1 – :
apertura quasi disarmante.
Viole iperealiste,incenso acre,mirra medicinale e vari accenni di rose bagnate,vetiver e lavanda.
Mi viene in mente una monaca nel giardino di un convento intenta a pestare gli ingredienti.
migliora di molto nelle ore successive ma al mio naso e’troppo umido e aromatico all’inizio e troppo polveroso alla fine.
Sicuramente distintivo e ben fatto puo’ diventare una firma facile per una donna matura.
C’è un aurea internazionale in esso.
interessante.
faton – :
Oh, this is beautiful! Smells like crushed violets, clean skin, leather and an ethereal smoky saffron. It’s a love for me!
kosihin1979 – :
Not you everyday type of violet scent. It is more “earthy”…maybe….The woods are there…a little powder effect…yes….and oak moss/citric..yes.
The combo here is absolutely STUNNING. Love at first sniff!! However, I only have a sample…and the price is out of reach for me on this one…sigh..sigh….Maybe one day…lol. It is FB worthy…for sure. LOVE IT !!!
Unisex….btw.
polivak2008 – :
The violet and violet leaves are used in here quite enormously with a good take blended with oakmoss making it feels oily and greasy & the colder it goes the more the smell of burns raises up as a combination of roses and limes with the help of vetiver and lavender.
I remember this was the personal scent of Mona as i heard it from a seller in a niche fragrance in London.
I’m not a fan of violets but the colder this fragrance goes the more unsuspectingly charm it brings to me.
Edit (23rd April 2016) now after few sprays on me, i realized that it is an oily violet leaves! not greasy but oil… something like body oil and again not sticky oil but oily…and it reminds me of an Indian oil women used to use on their hair to make it think, heavy, and feeds it healthy nutrition.
vishenka_1m1 – :
What an interesting take on violet, this reminds me a little of L’Artisan’s Skin on skin (although the floral s Iris in that one) in the way it settles to a violet, suedey leather smell but without the saffron it’s not exactly the same by any means just reminds a little of it. Very delicate, very beautiful, full bottle worthy for sure. I get a little of the lavender early on too it’s lovely.
JaxfriefeBiam – :
I am enjoying wearing it at work.
And grieving for the last few drops in my rollon litle bottle.
I found it not so smokey / fumee but more of a posh leather scent.
I would love a full bottle.
RainGirl – :
When I bought a bottle of Violette Fumee I was not yet sure if I should wear it or my husband. In the end I gave it to my husband. It smells great on him. Really. I am not too fond of lavender but this scent is mostly violet and tobacco for me…not strong pipe tobacco but a mild fume that does not alter this scent too masculine for a woman to wear. I am not sure if I smell any rose there. Anyways, the scent is quite fresh and yes, metallic. It is nice for a man as a casual scent and it would compliment a woman wearing a formal outfit with straight-leg trousers. There is lots of sillage and longevity I think. More of either would be too much…
danik48 – :
Violette Fumee opens with a strong alcoholic blast, followed a moment later by the sharp greens of crushed violet leaves, bitter saffron, and sharp lemony opoponax. As the heart opens, a dark rose note joins the sillage, but not the scent on my skin. Floral violet appears in drifts, made light, cool, and airy by the dark and bitter accord surrounding it, like the cool breeze that arrives just before the first raindrops fall. All I can do at this point is sit and smell my wrists, this is magical in its evolution.
As the heart develops, the dry bitter orange peel scent of myrrh arrives, complemented by a bergamot made juicy by the contrast with the dry resins. In the dry down, the primary accord forms an elegant, aromatic earthy accord, like soil after a soft summer rain. Cool, clean, slightly mysterious, utterly ravishing. I think this effect is created somehow with damp vetiver and dark, smoky guaiac. Or maybe it’s magic. I’m leaning towards magic.
Violet Fumee is like something out of a fairy tale, transformative, astonishing, miraculous. This scent will change how you perceive the world around you, making it fresh, washing you clean. This is a must-try scent for any perfume lover!
I really, really love my new butterfly wings.
IlnazKzN – :
Soooooo…not quite sure about this one & the jury (the one in my mind) is still out! But the fragrance DID grow on me after a few days. Still, I’m giving it a “LIKE” after wearing it.
The opening of this fragrance is a bitter, sour, earthy citrus-fruit approach that is akin to an orange peel thrown on a dirt pile. Bergamot-yes. Oak-moss-definitely! Opening notes are quite sour and acrid…not the best, frankly.
Eventually, mid-notes develop that (for me) are not quite lavender but GRAPE. At one point, I detect notes mimicking Stewart’s Grape Soda in the most definite way!!! Eeeeeeew, I thought. Definitely detecting notes of leather, some tobacco…but dry, old grape SODA!
After an hour or more and with continued development, violet notes emerge but not in the way I hoped for or imagined. Not dreamy, dark, Gothic, mysterious or complex, this fragrance dries in a rather linear, faint, dusty violet manner.
The fragrance definitely lands with slightly acrid, somewhat (very faint) citrus-y violet notes. What’s interesting though is a smoky, gray cloak that embodies the violet fragrance, toning it down and balancing the violet out in the nicest way. Also, for a rather “linear” dry-down, this fragrance is “still” complex and quite lovely, actually.
This is NOT a sharp, potent, shrill or pitch-y violet fragrance. In general, this is a very subtle, gentle wear. I applied a LOT to detect any fragrance, which isn’t a good thing. And with all this said, silage is low and longevity isn’t great. And the price? YIKES!
Guess I was expecting more of a flowery incense fragrance, which this is not. Smoke-yes. Violets-yes. Cashmere-yes. Incense-no. But please note: this is NOT our grandmother’s violet perfume! This is different & unique! It’s the reason I love niche fragrances!!!
Reminds me of a cloudy, gray day. Don’t think I will be purchasing a full bottle of this at the going retail price of (what???) $350.00/3.3 ml.
i080278r – :
This has to be the highest quality perfume I have ever put on. Below descriptions are pretty accurate. It feels luxury and feels like being wrapped in the highest count of Egyptian Cotton sheets.
Regarding longevity, 20+ hours on me with two sprays
iba8800 – :
Violette Fumee is a seductress. I find the floral opening to be pretty and surprisingly ordinary, but 45 minutes in, it’s a totally different story. Hints of tobacco, rose, and the tiniest smoke tendrils rise above the ladylike violets. I imagine a demure young women in the ’40s with a well fitted suit, hat, and gloves with the knockout figure underneath. Violette Fumee is a relief from the ubiquitous white florals and candy gourmands of the day.
The downside, as others have mentioned, is the sillage and longetivity. Neither impress. While I might consider a decant or large sample, I can’t see paying the enormous price for a full bottle.
st-v – :
I had been a little cautious in my approach to this scent because of the mixed reviews and the frequent comments about lack of a smoke note. Oddly enough I find I agree with most of them. It is not a smokey violet leaf fragrance that you can point to each note and say there is the violet, there is the green, there is the smoke. What you do get is an incredibly sophisticated herbal green from the violet leaf and the lavender. As with true violet leaf distillations there is the violet note along with the green performing as an accompaniment rather than the star. There is a sweetness, a grounding and a polish that probably comes from the bergamot and the combination of the green, the lavender and the bergamot is where the classical feel comes from. The twist comes in the violet note which somehow seems to be a restrained swirling effect – not a smokey trail, but a slightly ‘dehydrated’ non sweet violet, the like of which I have never come across before. It is incredible and so restrained that I struggle to describe this fragrance adequately. Sophistication to the n’th degree.
I have over a hundred fragrances, most of them anything but mainstream and yet I found myself drawn to Violette Fumee so often. I find it quite unexpectedly wearable and hypnotic. Like a lot of other users I too have to report it is relatively low sillaged and short lived, but what a trip. It was an unexpected love and as masculine as any man could want.
anchuta – :
Well composed and elegant, although I don’t smell violet much once it’s on my wrist.
It’s difficult to describe. If you could imagine a pretty purple Band-Aid, that is kind of what this perfume reminds me of. There is a rubbery element, but not as rubbery as Bandit, and a powdery green facet that gives it a “fancy lady” kind of vibe.
Overall, it’s interesting and it works, but is not something I’d buy.
korea – :
A violet like no other. I think I’m finally “getting” the Les Nombres collection. They may have simple names which let us think it’s centered around a particular note. Which is not the case at all. Vanille is not a stereotypical gourmand vanilla, Tuberose is like no other tuberose scent and Violette Fumee is like no other violet scent I’ve come across. I thought Lez Nez’s Unicorn Spell and CDG Stephen Jones were different and unique takes on violet. Mona di Orio’s Violet Fumee pretty much blazes past these and leaves them in her smoke, in terms of originality. This really has to be sat down with and taken time with to enjoy, it’s complex and does not reveal it’s entirety in the first half hour. I agree that it’s opening reminds me alot of Cristalle and the like. Cristalle opens cold and unreachable on me, just like Violette Fumee did. I know perfectly well what clary sage smells like now, the leathery note was clearly in the icy herbal opening. However, making friends does take time and I was patient. My faith was well-placed and with time, the chill air left and I was greeted with a fresh violet with its leaves still green and perky, resins and woods. I much much prefer the warmer drydown to the opening so thankfully this lasts very well on my skin with a single spritz. This is not an easy scent to like, but neither were Cristalle or No. 19 for me intially, but now is a different story from then. Violette Fumee is not for those looking for a sweet violet pastille scent. It’s a decidedly unisex take on violet with a bold entrance and uncompromising quality I’ve come to expect from Mona di Orio. This is no shrinking violet.
.purefinance.ru – :
You’re not meant to take the gold champagne wire off the cap! Anyway, I’m revisiting some of my Mona di Orio samples & I’m really enjoying them but I think this is my fav out of her current offerings. I do still need to sample her rose & oud scents though. I find it hard to describe this perfume but I will say it has similarities to Chanel 19 IMO, only better-more modern. Not sure about longevity & sillage but it’s sometimes hard to tell w/a small sample vial. I need to stop by Luckyscent & sample this properly!
gingerr07 – :
Violette Fumee smells like a fragrance suspended at the crossroads of violet in perfumery: many references to predecessors ( powdery, candied violets; bracing aftershave violets; fresh, green violets ) and roads less traveled ( the metallic iris of Iris Nazarena or the pulped blueberry sheen of Couer de Vetiver Sacre ). It alludes to chypre without really being one, and on the other hand has an accord of civety florals and frankincense that wouldn’t be out of place among the older Amouages.
The top is both rich and fresh, a velvet wave of purple with a bracing edge of bergamot and lavender, but predominantly violet for an hour before transforming into an oriental violet with rose, incense, and opopanax padding. It lingers in this middle stage, soft and veiled, for about six hours, before diminishing to a muted ashen after-scent.
It is difficult to do justice to a fragrance this complex. It’s clear nights and grey days, mid-way between warm and cool.
If there is a flaw in this, it is the labeling: this is not a parfum, and wears more like an eau de toilette in the initial big burst of scent followed by half a day’s light wear. I wouldn’t change a thing about it, but price point doesn’t make it any more “intense”.
podillyatbi – :
The drydown smells on me like Earl Grey tea leaves.
Tamoffs – :
Oh what the perfume world lost when we lost Mona! I didn’t think there could be anything better than some of the Les Nombres D’Or collection that came out not long before her untimely death, then I sniffed Violette Fumee ~sigh~ how do I find words for this masterpiece?
I’m just thankful her friend and colleague she designed this for was generous enough to share it with us.
There are great descriptions below, all I can do is say how much I second their effusions. Worth every cent!
kegor2004 – :
Just ordered a sample of this, pretty excited. But man this stuff is expensive, looking forward to updating later, great posts from the previous users so far
Update: I have worn this twice now, I am Unable to provide quite a review like the ones below. This feels more feminine to me and I am pretty open. I get a lot of rose in this. It’s very high quality.
Update 2: I found myself seduced by this. I started more into sharp violets (think fahrenheit and flankers) and find myself being more attracted to powdery as well. I cannot stop thinking about this, in fact I just sold a couple lots of colognes on eBay to find me some of this. The price is insane for my career choice, but sometimes you gotta go balls out. Not as feminine as I originally thought.
bmldivahn9 – :
Violette Fumee opens with a fresh sparkly triumvirate of green violet leaf, a splash of golden effervescent honeyed bergamot and subtle herbal lavender. Towards the heart the violet flower builds, an ultra-fine polished smooth powderiness is present but checked and never overwhelms, as opoponax adds resinous sweetness and a creaminess to the violet, forming the languorous sinuous and slightly shimmering heart of the fragrance. There’s also a very subtle tobacco note appearing at the beginning of the drydown, although I noticed this only on the second full wearing. At late drydown the violet flower recedes and watery violet leaf endures with a soft suede musky aspect (must be the cashmeran).
As others have noted the ‘fumee’ aspect is noticeable by its absence. Although I experienced a couple of phantom smokey tendrils that are gone as soon as I noticed then. It lays close and after around 4 hours is really a skin scent, however I experienced +12 hours longevity, on fabric it’s also +next day material. Not bad at all. There is a sweetness to VF, but it always retains a freshness and never threatens to become cloying. I’ve worn it now three times in the last four days, it’s got a subtle luxurious allure that keeps me coming back for more, I like it very much.
Violette Fumee is smoothly beautiful in its subtleties, its softness and tenderness. It’s different from anything in my collection and fills the violet yearnings I had. It would be easy to dismiss it on many levels, however doing so would be to miss the magic contained. It’s not a knockout punch, it’s a simmering romance…
ris880elipseskism – :
I have just reviewed this perfume at Chemist in the Bottle.
I was in a perfume boutique the other day and the SA said that it has just arrived that morning, so I grabbed a sample. Liked it so much I had to write about Violette Fumee
fanpetro71 – :
Violette Fumee opens up with an absolutely beautiful herbal lavender cloud. The smokiness starts to come through shortly after and wafts around for an hour or two, before settling down into soft vetiver and violet, which on me grows sweeter with a slightly just-right powderiness. I don’t smell tobacco but my partner commented on it so it’s clearly there. Presentation is outstanding – it comes in a lacquered black hinged box, lined with a velvety cream fabric – it feels like something special before you’ve even popped the twisted gold champagne wire off the bottle.
I appreciate the luxuriousness of the perfume and the presentation which is by far the best I’ve ever seen, but at this price point (230 euros) I would like more sillage. Having said that – while wearing it at work yesterday I had one or two violet-tendril-laced moments during which I felt sorry for my colleagues who were not able to share the experience – and i understood then that this should be described as personal or private scent, rather than one with low sillage.
As beautiful as this is, I’m a Leo, and like my perfume to announce itself to the world just a little more than this. If anybody is interested in buying the bottle (with all packaging) please PM me – I’m in Australia but happy to ship internationally depending on HAZMAT regulations.