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q.artur – :
Lutens’ Nightwatchman is a restless seducer. He teases you by drawing you in with intimate projection leaving behind a trail of deep and dark powdery bitter chocolate, both animalic and oily, infused with a rooty-green vegetal flavour. Is this really fleshy tuberose (or maybe rather jasmine?) emanating from the subclavian skin exposed from the black satin dress? And just before he strikes our Veilleur becomes surrounded and eventually engulfed by musk – first sensual then increasingly nebulous.
I like the abstract arty patterns of the Section d’Or range and that they invite one to use senses and imagination – sometimes telling aristocratic tales of bygone eras – cooly detached as in Renard Constrictor, opulent and extravagant as in Cracheuse de Flammes, or close up, intimate and mania-driven short stories such as VdN here. I do not think that the intent was to present a finished product that would render itself easily to typical analysis.
Equally I can understand the severe criticism Lutens/Sheldrake have received for this range in terms of concept, realisation and, of course, price point. I would not advise anyone to go and spend €600 for 50ml of Veilleur de Nuit but testing it most should – and if it does something to your head or heart in spite of its “imperfections” (like eg listening to Chet Baker does) then it’s a totally different story.
1866ф – :
Veilleur de Nuit opens with boozy, dark chocolate on my skin. The booziness doesn’t come out as deep as a really rich dark chocolate exhibits, but more high-pitched, which makes me think of the tangy liqueur hidden in the chocolate. And the chocolate doesn’t feel as unctuous as milky chocolate, nor as powdery as cacao powdery, its texture is rather dry, more like dark chocolate chips.
The fragrances shifts in a very stealthy way: if I don’t particularly pay attention, Veilleur de Nuit smells like dry chocolate chips for quite some time, but once I make effort to analyse the development, the chocolate is being replaced piece by piece by a discreet, abstract spicy animalic element. The fragrance eventually becomes a spicy chocolate-y scent after about 2 hours, and it feels surprisingly thin and insubstantial as a chocolate fragrance.
Once again, Veilleur de Nuit starts another sneaking transition, this time by a grape-y jasmine and white musk. The later two take over the fragrance after about 5 hours, with the spiciness and the creaminess of chocolate becoming a far cry in the background. The overall effect of this dry down, reminds me of a slightly more spicy and creamier version of La Religieuse.
The sillage is moderate to soft, and the longevity is around 8 hours. Veilleur de Nuit has its merits: I enjoy its boozy dark chocolate and its combination with spicy animalic elements, even though the jasmine and white musk dry down seems rather conventional. It it’s in the export range, I would probably happily grab a bottle. But at the price range of Section d’Or, I honestly expected something more nuanced and more substantial with these notes.
slava_haker – :
Nestle Quik powder that becomes inedible when the scent of Phyto shampoo rises up and takes over. The only good I can say is that it develops very dramatically from phase to phase, like 3 completely different perfumes in one: cocoa, tuberose, and musk.
South_park – :
Interdite, maybe the name could be translated into Night Look-Out, or Night Watch.
Sounds like way too much musk. I’m not terribly keen on musk. The smaller the dose, the better.