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gamered – :
Vanille Noir was released in 2016 and I will approach the difference between the original version and the current, already reformulated. This is because the perfumer Sanderson Santana identified that his creations could be improved, not for technical reasons, like limitations with raw material or impositions of the industry, but by pure perfectionism.
According to official information, Vanille Noir has notes of carnation leaves (not cloves), nutmeg, cinnamom from Ceylon and roses, in the output. Then, in the body, notes of apricot, muguet, rosewood and cedar from Virginia. Finally, an intense base with notes of Black Agar, leather, tobacco, patchouli from Singapore, vanilla from Madagascar, tonka beans and vetiver.
Let us go to what matters: Vanille Noir was good before, but its reformulation improved the fragrance considerably, which proves that not all reformulation is a bad thing. While the original version featured a sickening nuance, as if it were a tutti-frutti chewing gum, which exuded a lot and hid the best part (smoky) close to the skin, the current version has no such nuance. Now, Vanille Noir touches the skin with the nutmeg heat, making way for a fruity facet of apricots, very well balanced by the woody content. At the same time, as if they were present from the start, the base notes pop up and explode in full force, bringing a kind of chocolate-type patchouli (fans of A*Men and its flankers will like), with a pungent vanilla, the star of this creation. Here, the vanilla is not creamy and sweetened. It is completely sweet, liqueur and almost burned.
The perfumer defines Vanille Noir as an oriental-ambery fragrance. On my skin, however, it behaved like an extremely powerful oriental-gourmand. It is a perfume that does not evolve much, but it has a high power of projection and durability (remembering that the concentration is Parfum Extrait) and that, in my opinion, should not be worn on hot days or nights, as it will annoy and probably go wrong with excessive sweating. However, at lower temperatures it works beautifully.
Vanille Noir is not completely groundbreaking to my nose, but for anyone who is just accustomed to mass-market brands and has always heard about those “niche perfumes”, the surprise will be great. And the presentation of the brand is very nice, from the box (with internal electronic cut) to the bottle.