Description
Tolu is an exotic fragrance based on Peruvian tolu resin, from a precious variety of tree in South America. Laced with frankincense and amber and a heady mix of floral and herbal top notes, Tolu takes the wearer on a sensual oriental journey.
Top notes of Juniper Berry, Orange Blossom and Clary Sage yield to a heart of Orchid, Moroccan Rose and Muguet. The base features precious Tolu, Tonka Bean, Golden Frankincense and Amber.
The fragrance is available in eau de parfum or Made to Measure Parfum for which the customer selects the concentration, a solid perfume compact, bath and body products and candles.
Tolu was launched in 2002. The nose behind this fragrance is Geza Schoen.
burundukk88 – :
A great scent to wear in chilly weather. Very warm and of course resinous. The tolu is strong in this one.
It is a tad sweet but it is all perfectly balanced. After a while you detect the orchid, neroli and aromatics which prevent this becoming too heavy. They cut through the resins and define the fragrance and are more evident with time.
Can you tell it’s a winner with me yet? There is something about it that reminds me of cartier baiser du dragon but this is more interesting. I fear reformulation took away the fire in Cartiers dragons kiss. So sad.
Further down the timeline and there is a soapiness which I don’t mind for a change.
I get good longevity and good sillage in this 20 degree room. I also think a fella could easily carry this one off. It is borderline unisex.
NillAlignique – :
Tolu is one of the most comforting perfume that I have ever tried so far. Tolu is an oriental creation which follows big orientals like Youth Dew, Opium and expecially Shalimar but with more modern way. I find it airy, easy to wear, chic and warm. I’m always getting amazing comliments from people when I wear Tolu. It makes me happy. Amazing job!
Natali17101977 – :
After a slightly acrid herbal-woody opening (sage?), Ormond Jayne’s Tolu turns into a warm amber, orange blossom, balsam and wood scent. It’s mostly an amber scent on me – sweet, only a little powdery, and a glowing golden brown. After the opening, it’s a pleasant experience all around. Very cozy in fall and winter. The tolu and orange blossom keep this scent from being just another amber scent. Lovely, radiating projecion (not too strong, but sort of wafts out in waves in a natural way), medium longevity. Like.
patahov56 – :
Excellent review by JTD below. I agree with most that is said and do not have much to add. It is a rather soft and resinous oriental. Somewhat floral but not much. Beautiful and long lasting. It is true that it reminds us of older oriental fragrances, but it does not feel dated at all. And it does not remind me of granny’s fragrances.
It may lean a bit feminine, though not really. The floral aspect is soft and the resinous part dominates. I would say unisex.
mabi – :
As an oriental and especially floral oriental lover, I’ve tried for years to love Tolu. I do like it, but it has a sharpness that puts me off. I don’t get any floral notes from it at all; if I did, it would probably smell more rounded and plush and thus more pleasant to me. As it is, it is just never quite what I want it to be. I’m going to continue experimenting with layering it in hopes of using up all the versions in which I bought it (I’ve tried the EDP, parfum, bath oil, and body lotion).
ramzai59 – :
Tolu is one of perfumer Geza Schoen’s early perfumes and one of the perfumes that launched the Ormonde Jayne line in 2002. It’s an interesting spin on the oriental genre and provides a glimpse of the techniques and style that would become Schoen’s signature. It also demonstrates how a ‘contemporary’ style ages.
Contemporary independent perfumers have riffed on the oriental perfume since the niche trend started. Just as Christopher Sheldrake did with the Bois series for Serge Lutens, Schoen based Tolu on a close reading of the traditional model. Both perfumers deciphered it, focussing not just on the compositional ‘recipe’ but the logic behind it—the how and the why. Sheldrake’s Bois perfumes were famous/infamous for their optimistic use of woody amber materials, and in this respect there is a lot of common ground in Sheldrake’s and Schoen’s methodologies. Where they differ is in their relationships to archetypal oriental perfumes.
Sheldrake bent what he found into a distinctly new shape. Shoen also took the genre down to the studs but came up with a different model for innovation: facsimile. Tolu is a clever rebuild of the traditional oriental perfume. In terms of scent Tolu and Guerlain Shalimar run on close parallel paths but they diverge sharply when it comes to texture. Tolu’s stained glass luminescence has all of Shalimar’s richness but none of the opacity and graininess that makes it seem dated to the modern nose.
Schoen recreates Shalimar’s citrus accord with an evergreen/herbal mix. It has a whiff of turpentine, whose citric/lime facet replicates Shalimar’s bergamot topnote. The aromatic herbal accord lasts well into drydown, making it an ingenious proxy for Shalimar’s famously hefty dose of Guerlinade. As the name implies Tolu’s resinous core stems from tolu balsam, which gives the perfume an unwrinkled matte appearance. Tolu’s heart is significantly less sweet than Shalimar’s but the vanilla is just as pronounced and tolu balsam’s hint of cinnamon accents vanilla’s woodiness. Leather is as prominent as it is in the Guerlain but without the smoky backdrop of birch tar it is sheerer and decidedly more modern. Shoen gave his perfume a sizable orange blossom note, which differs from the Guerlain’s jasmine and rose heart, but adds noticeably to the perfume’s suntanned glow.
Tolu’s innovative reimagining of an historical genre with contemporary materials made it novel when it was released in 2002 but the particular style of luminosity does date it. It scores exceedingly high on ‘radiance’ which pegs it as a Millennial Perfume, a cohort of fragrances composed with famously high percentages of insistent woody-amber materials. To Schoen’s great credit, Tolu has aged more gracefully than most perfumes of the early ’00s. It reads as era-specific rather than outdated. Trend might have followed Shoen, but he lead through innovation.
Part of the charm and appeal of oriental perfumes has always been their over-the-topness. To the modern nose, though, they might be a little much for daily wear, like opera or high drag. For those who do favor the Emeraudes, Tabus and Youth Dews of the world Tolu’s light version of a dense style might seem inauthentic, like a spray tan or a faked orgasm. But for those who find traditional perfumes a bit too heavily brocaded Tolu offers an oriental without melodrama.
(from scenthurdle.com)
ckz198speagoessenda – :
Free sample..my take: Feminine on initial spray, a flowery-balsamic combo, light-moderate sillage. On dry down it becomes more balsamic, Longevity is great, 8 hours easily. I like it although not enough to buy a bottle. A bit too feminine and generic balsamic for me.
IBANEZ – :
“For women and men” is often applied to niche, but that’s really a stretch with this one to my nose. Why? Tolu takes me back to something my grandma used to wear. Something by a designer brand that she would save for church or other special occasions. Something by Estee Lauder? YSL? Not sure. I do get most of the notes that are listed or otherwise commented on here.
I’d buy this as a gift for a special lady. My personal frame of reference for this kind of scent is forever etched in my mind as being “feminine.”
But I’m grateful for the sample, which was like an after scent of a Grandma hug on one of those special occasions.
elistratov245 – :
This is very nice. Soft, feminine oriental,balsamic. Mature but not dated. Moderate sillage and longevity.
But..this reminds me so much of Youth Dew! not as rich and strong as YD,imagine that you put 2 drops of YD in a cup of water, then you have Tolu by OJ!
Why to spend so much money for a super diluted youth dew when you can have the real deal for just $30?
fanin.n – :
I’m really impressed by this fragrance. The first smell I get is oddly the base notes – rich and powerful amber and resins. But then only seconds later, the top notes appear as you would expect. Beautiful orange blossom and juniper make for a fresh contrast to the heavy resins and amber.
The middle notes are gorgeous. Completely unisex florals. I usually don’t like Lily of the Valley in fragrances, but this one gets it right. Mixed with rose, it is a really clean, refreshing floral vibe. As a guy wearing this, I think of some old school Guerlain scents (Habit Rouge in particular).
The base is as expected, deep, resinous, and satisfying. This is a unique fragrance and I look forward to repeated wearings to see what else I pick up.
CalvinGZ – :
It almost reminds me of Shalimar!
zara442009 – :
This just smells like orange or citrus and is not very strong with no projection.
dimaxxx1 – :
This made me aware of how much I dislike orchid note in perfumes.
In this particular case I clearly detected the irritating note as a dull smell of some everyday hairproduct (shampoo, hair spray) appearing out of nowhere in the middle of what could otherwise be very smooth and sophisticated oriental. A single disonante turned Tolu to less niche, more mainstream-smelling creation. And there’s a whole bunch of “fresh flowers” listed for a woody-oriental I must notice.. Also agree with the statement below – the opening is actually the best part of the composition.
To me, it came close to being some sort of more transparent Cuir Ottoman; more clear – without the thick iris fog, more fragile – without the heavy sillage. ONLY IF without orchid.
shizoglaz – :
A very cozy warm, very aromatic fragrance. Well not surprisingly this is very heavy on the tolu and sweetened a touch by the strong supporting acts of the tonka and the amber. Its not long before the olibanum and orchid are very evident. Its the olibanum note that ruins it for me. The juniper, sage and the neroli work well to act like accents to what its after all a fragrance with a lot of “heavy” base notes. Perfect for cool and cold weather wear. Only moderate sillage and longevity which is surprising considering the notes in this. No fb for me Im afraid.
tareto1983 – :
Tolu is one of the best winter perfume i have ever seen. People always ask me how good i’m smell when i wear this. Warm, cozy, creamy and bright. Best one in the collection!
Deroxozegn – :
TOLU is a beautiful, pillowy-cuddly-marshmellow amber dusted with resinous powdered sugar.
The overall character of TOLU is soft yet persistent. It really reminds me of beautiful vintage scented face powders and creams.
From distance it smells like a classic oriental with a very sheer, smooth, chiffon-like blend of amber, benzoin and a sightly smoked white chocolate aroma. The closer you get to the skin, the sweeter and creamy it becomes.
A big creamy powder puff. It is sweet, but not in a gourmand way. It is powdery, but not in a outdated manner.
Consistent with other ORMONDE JAYNE perfumes, TOLU is rather linear with very good sillage.
TOLU exudes femininity. It is classic yet still elegant. Like a confident woman who is not afraid of aging and takes absolute pride in her wisdom and experience.
av57098 – :
It smells quite great on the paper strip I tested this on, but Esteban Tolu is a good bit better, I think.
pxk710Negeltzex – :
I love balsamic orientals, and I wanted this one so badly that I almost went ahead and blind bought it. I am *so* happy that I got a decant first. Colin Maillard’s previous review describes this perfume very well. To me, it’s very basic, boring and underwhelming. Rochas Absolu or the modern version of Opium – which I would not pay money for – do what Ormonde Jayne Tolu does for much less money and they last a great deal longer. I can think of so many balsamic orientals that equal or surpass this, it’s hard to believe. The radiance is low, the sillage is modest, longevity moderate or less. It spends the majority of it’s time being an ordinary sort of amber fragrance that you won’t notice without putting your wrist to your nose. It’s not bad, but it’s so far from great. Polite, inoffensive, nice. 6.5/10 being generous. I’m so disappointed.
nowdi – :
Not as exotic or unique as I was hoping. Smells exactly like Rochas Absolu, which can be had for a fraction of the price.
anesseswist – :
I couldn’t wear Tolu when I first received the OJ Discovery Set. At the time, my body chemistry went to war with anything resinous. So glad that got sorted, because now it works on me, and it is absolutely gorgeous! While I love the peppery openings of many of the OJ scents, this one starts out much differently. There is an initial wave of orange blossom and sage, but still with a resinous underpinning. On me, the floral mid notes emerge quickly, predominantly a hint of rose and orchid. I never have the sense, though, that this is a floral perfume. The delicate spice and warm tolu keep their presence known throughout. It is sophisticated–a new classic for the 21st century. This scent is for the woman who wants to reach beyond gourmands and white florals into something that is complex, spicy, resinous, and a hint woody, while still being utterly feminine. Saving my pennies so I can spring for a bottle or travel set.
bercut – :
Three words on my mind: grown, classy, feminine.
JudeEAO – :
This review is based on a tiny decant. On my skin and to my nose, I get mostly tolu, tonka bean and orchid with a hint of vanilla. Maybe there’s a little bit of frankincense in the background too. Amber joins in later with a slight boozy undertone.
Moderate projection and good longevity on my skin. I feel projection could be better if I apply more.
All in all, it feels classic (not dated) and contemporary at the same time. I’ve not smelled anything like it before. It’s quite unique in my books.
JepGreevA – :
This started off warm, round, and acceptably spicy…then morphed into a sharp powder reminiscent of 1980s scented toilet paper. Grrr!
hlk364elipseskism – :
Very deep,thick and sweet. I really don’t deyect any of the floral notes which is a good thing. Amber,tonka,oilbanium and tolu balsam give it a deep and resinous vibe. Very unisex and appealing. It goes on heavy and sillage remains great for about 5-6 hours on me. After that it settles down to a bit of a powdery feel. No complaints from me as this is a love at first sniff.
steirmen – :
Oh how long I have waited to try this and today, the wait is over! Just as I dreamt of it being, just as I imagined the delightful tolu to be, a stunning masterpiece! I was hit with some citrus balsamic notes with the initial spay, I waited anxiously for the scent to develop as I knew there was much more to come, and how right I was. The more it develops, the more sweeter, more feminine it becomes. The amber comes out to play, giving it depth and warmth, at the same time the citrus is still present. I can definitely detect some orange blossom, this is making the sweetness more prominent. Once it settles, it turns into a powdery wonder, just enough powder to blend in with the spices, woods and flowers. An extremely elegant, romantic and sexy scent, very sensual too. The downside is it doesn’t last on me at all, otherwise it would have been absolutely perfect!
If I had to describe how this scent makes me feel when I am wearing it, I would say ‘Like a girl in love, plucking out flower petals and saying he loves me, he loves me not’
gvfcaumvetcb – :
Yes, this is the best fragrance by Ormonde Jayne. Beautifully sensual, opulent, seductive, magnificent. It may remember Feminite du Bois by Serge Lutens, but Tolu is more powerful. Orchid and amber: two ingredients complacent and expressive. I really like it.
ldr563bedyWelty – :
Shalimar + Parfum Sacré = OJ Tolu
It’s great, but I think I prefer the two separately. One funny thing is happening on my arm: Shalimar at the wrist and PS at the elbow…?
fatsia – :
Not exactly my style but I can appreciate this fragrance for what it is.
It’s my first meeting with Tolu Balsam in such high quantities and what I’m getting is major golden amber tones, slight masculine vibe. It feels kind of regal, and makes me think of ancient times. Just the right amount of spice.
It’s a very full bodied fragrance and wafts beautifully in subtle but not weak waves. It feels very smoothly blended and somehow feels familiar, like a hug from someone I used to know.
It’s deeply resinous, rich and warm, quite comforting also. It feels quite classic to me. It’s also the strongest Ormonde Jayne I’ve tried to date
I’m not sure I’d buy it but, glad I’m using my sample today. It’s quite warming and bringing a bit of golden sun to this gloomy day in London.
Agissespospew – :
This is so uniquely beautiful. I know coffee isn’t listed as a note but does anybody else get it as well? I’m talking rich, freshly brewed espresso coffee. It is DIVINE! That note seems to stay from the moment I put it on to the moment it’s wearing off and I lurrrrve it ♥
Aside from the caffeine addict in me loving this – that orchid is just LUSCIOUS. The Spices, Amber and Vanilla (only a hint of Vanilla on me) compliment the Coffee and the Orchid beyond belief.
I am *crazy* about this. For some reason, the dry down on me is similar (but not identical) to Cartier’s Du Dragon…which is just another reason I love this perfume! WOW, WOW, WOW. What an introduction to this niche brand!
MEGA thank you to the lovely fragrantician who sent me a decant of this…think it’s safe to say I’ll be getting my hands on a big bottle when I can LOL xxoo
Jelling – :
All aboard the orient express! This is one gem that an oriental lover should try to get their hands on in this lifetime. This is my favourite of all of the Ormonde Jayne exclusive line because it is opulent and rich, full of spices and balms and it is a true delight to the senses. The top notes include sage which is invigorating and therapeutic. The dry down is tonka bean, sandalwood, ambery heaven. A real wrist sniffer. Sillage is fantastic, it will draw many admiring compliments. This is for a woman of any age who holds eloquent taste. The bottle also looks gorgeous on one’s mantlepiece.
On a side note, whilst I was being attended to in the perfume boutique, the sales assistant told me Pierce Brosnan had just been in hours earlier and bought the Tolu fragranced candle. I must say it did help contribute to the sale 😉
invoftbeeloff – :
Gorgeous, Rich, Resinous, Spicy and Warm composition from a lady who knows how to create an unforgettable scent that will stay with you for a lifetime.
I initially tried a sample from the discovery set and immediately fell in love with it; ordered a bottle and have since enjoyed many winter nights enveloped in this deep scent made with tolu, muguet (I love this note present at the beginning), rose, amber and frankincense notes.
I have also tried a mini candle, courtesy of the Ormonde Jayne Boutique in Bond Street which is absolutely lovely and hypnotic.
I shall be getting the travel spray set to be able to enjoy the scent while on my travels.
I do look forward to many years of pleasure surrounded by this beautiful perfume.
Excellent longevity and sillage.
Double thumbs up!
Thank You…x
JordanRZ – :
I feel like a traitor for not loving Tolu as much as the Fragrantica reviewers below. I do appreciate it – the warmth, the resin, the liberal dose of citrus…but after a while the base, which reminds me of caramels, grows tiresome. Perhaps it’s because I don’t particularly enjoy caramels. Or perhaps there’s something missing in this base…somehow I want it to be deeper and darker. I suspect that layering Tolu with something dark could produce a truly fabulous blend.
VerieFeraDIFF – :
I made the review below, just timed out from my account.
At first spray I was greeted with a sharp juniper berries & orange blossom. It’s good, really. The sage was just behind, adding some green kick. This is also smoky & kinda metallic. But oh so amazing top. No powdery scent here.
I have high hopes with this beginning but I already felt this can lean more for men. Then 5 minutes after, a flower manifested, the rosé, so beautiful, blending well with the juniper berries & sage. The orange blossom was hiding now. I also detect a wonderful scent, a balmy tone, woody, could it be the tolu? If this is tolu, then its blends with the other notes are remarkable. No powdery scent, again.
If tolu is a compelling note especially when mixed with rosé, florals & greens, then oud may have a competition in perfumery. At this stage the coin has turned, leaning to feminine side. But without the florals, this woody tolu note could be a hit for men’s fragrances.
15 minutes after application, this composition has come out with stings of smokiness & sweetness of tonka with little support from rosé & tolu. The base is good but the dominance of smoke & tonka prevented the rose & woods to be more noticeable. If only the rosé & tolu gets a stronger emphasis & lesser on the tonka and smoke that acted like an incense. Again, it leaned back to masculine scent. The balmy vibe diminishes, no powdery scent detected throughout my brief journey with Ormonde’s Tolu.
I love this scent from top to heart but the base is not unique. I have smelled a better base, better & intriguing than this, it is the wonder of Amouage Opus VI.
ЕвгенийЕвгеньевич – :
Try taking your nose away from your wrist with this one~It’s practically impossible. The orange blossom and tolu come together in this staggering, smoky, golden nectar of a scent.Tolu’s depth is unmistakeable and it’s quality breathtaking. Juniper, and sage add an herbal edge while the florals create a haunting richness. They play off of each other almost like the facets of a diamond play with light. They draw you deeper into the inhale and as you sit there smiling like an idiot~the base notes come up at you and play your heart like a resined bow over a string…this perfume is all about closer. You MUST get closer……although it has excellent sillage and longevity….you will still come….closer:)
vayazh – :
Love, love, love this!
Gorgeous smoky swirling notes of resin mixed with creamy Amber and sweet Tonka they move around me while Rose, Lily of the Valley, Orchid and Orange Blossom softly anchor the perfume to a floral base. A tenacious and soft beauty brilliantly constructed in moving 3D.
Day or night, light or heavy application this is just perfect for any occasion.
10/10 well worth the money OJ!!
yunis85 – :
I love this! I think I will have to break down and have a FB. It would definitly be a GO TO scent for me! I’d be wearing it a lot!
demaTeams98 – :
Tolu is impressive.
Resinous, spicy, fruity and brimming with seduction.
Upon application my nose recognises some similarities with Must by Cartier. The top of Tolu is slightly greener reminding me of Nu EDP also momentarily. The exquisitely crafted rosy notes are Tolu’s defining feature.
As the proud owner of both Must and Nu I will not be NEEDING the magnificent Tolu. Do I WANT it? Absolutely.
PeceLeady – :
Love at first sniff, this starts out with a gorgeous medley of citrus and orange blossom, woods, vanilla, powdery tonka, and a floral note up front that smells something like ylang-ylang. I suppose it contains tolu balsam, which has a resinous, vanilla-like scent, and is usually used as a fixative, not the main attraction. Here it serves the usual purpose, with the main attraction being the florals and amber base.
Once the scent stabilizes, I would characterize Tolu as a beautiful, sexy oriental fragrance with a lot of citrus, and just enough rough edges to make it unusual. It’s as if there were angles that don’t quite mesh together, but the mismatch ends up creating an interesting texture. After a while there appears a sweet, creamy note that reminds me of rice pudding. I love the juxtaposition of this soft, smooth stream with the rough one. There’s just the right amount of sillage, and longevity is excellent, 8 hours or more. Two thumbs up on this one!
costyashkin – :
Something in this scent reminds me of all the good things about Shalimar, without the things that make it seem fussy or dated to so many people. I think it is the tonka bean and amber that draws that reaction for me, but this is so modern and fresh in comparison (even though I honestly love the original Shalimar). As with so many of Linda Pilkington’s fragrances, the dry down on this is spectacular and I find I’m constantly sniffing myself throughout the day to enjoy more of this fragrance. Great but inoffensive sillage and long wear time. This is the perfect fall fragrance, but I find myself pulling it out on hot summer nights when I really want some sizzle.
jackfromos – :
FRESH WOODY SWEET THATS WHAT I THINK SAGE ORRIS AND TONKA IS NOTES THAT I SMELL SUPRISENGLY THE TOP NOTES ARE FRESH THEN THE VANILLA SHINES IN THE MID THEN IITS START SMELL MORE POWDERY AND AFTER A COUPLE OF HOUERS WHAT U WILL GET IS AN AMAZING AND SOFT AMBER THAT MIXED WITH RUM OR TONKA I DONT SMEEL ORCHID IN THERE AT ALL BUT MAYBE THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH MY NOSE OK LETS RETURNE TO THE MAINE SUBJECT TOLU IS VERY EASY TO LUV SPEICALEY FOR THE LAIDES ITS VERY SEXY PERFUME AND SECONDE /IF SOMEONE WANT TO UPGRADE FROM BRONZE GODDESS WICH IS CREMY COCONUTE MIXED WITH JASMINE THEN LAIDES THATS THE BIG DEAL THATS WHAT U LOOKING FOR OK PEACE
dvu208Diobtetty – :
I find the primary character of the top notes fleeting, but then the beautiful bright nuance of the opening manages to glow all the way through Tolu.
As the heart of this fragrance starts to beat, a bouquet of flowers begins to blossom–velvety, smooth, lush, rich–their botanical aroma doesn’t seek attention, yet their ethereal beauty hovers.
The resins in this composition are featured with most prominent perfection. Frankincense, for me has a penetrating quality on a very primal level–balsamic, rich, a little sharp, teasing awake some deeply buried corners of my psyche.
Tolu balsam married with amber offers some comfy, malted goodness, like a fresh-from-the-oven earthy graham cracker dipped in warm, full cream milk.
A very regal presentation of what culminates into a creamy, smoky, earthy, woody, sultry delight. Just try not to love this–about as impossible as sneezing with your eyes wide open.
BIBIk504 – :
I treated myself to the Ormonde Jayne Discovery pack and Tolu and Orris Noir are my favourites. Warm, sensuous and earthy fragrances are my new obsession. I find that they go the distance too. Can spray on early morning and get a compliment in the evening. Tolu is a fragrance that simply cannot be ignored. It’s gorgeous and now my signature scent.
iiu538speagoessenda – :
I’ve tried every single Ormonde fragrance, and hands down Tolu is my favorite. I can wear it day and night as it is both rich and light, or luxurious and energetic at the same time. It is very interesting but not in an obnoxious or pretentious way, just classy, unique, and brilliant.
Shantal – :
This is a beautifully subtle perfume. Yes, it has depth and warmth, but it does not sit heavily. Woody and resinous spices, and the smoke of incense curl through it. But the lightness of the orange blossom, and the spark of the sage balance the richness quite perfectly right from the beginning. It manages to be of the earth and the air simultaneously. The drydown is gently warm and rich, with glints of the florals continuing to lighten and animate it. It remains three dimensional until the end, not powdery flat.
This is the first Ormonde Jayne I have tried and it is quite lovely in a thoughtful way.
makevolk – :
After my abortive attempt to uncover the essence of osmanthus through a series of, let us say, disappointing fragrances, I was feeling pretty perfume deprived and so reached for something sure to fill the elixir void, the dark and viscous TOLU by Ormonde Jayne.
I love tolu balsam and this composition is gorgeous, with that note definitely as focus. The florals are pretty much drowned out by the oriental components, above all, the tolu, but I’m not complaining as we have here an admirable example of truth in advertising.
Upon application, TOLU reminded me immediately of Rochas ABSOLU, which also features tolu balsam, but the difference is that this creation does not bear Jacques Cavallier’s signature. I’ve said it before, and I’m sure I’ll say it again: JC adds something to all of his perfumes to identify them as his own. Go down the list: TROUBLE, TRUTH, SO ELIXIR, VANILLE NOIRE, ABSOLU, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO POUR FEMME, NU…they all smell like Jacques Cavalier. I kid you not. If I acquire any more of his perfumes I’m going to have to write to ask him to start paying part of my rent, since the evidence is beyond dispute: he’s clearly inhabiting my space!
Anyway, I prefer TOLU to ABSOLU, all things considered, and recommend this delightful wintertime perfume to all who appreciate ABSOLU, BAISER DU DRAGON, MUST, and the like. Very, very nice.
WEXEER – :
I’m so grateful to Anorton1965 for sharing a sample of this with me! Tolu is such an amazing fragrance: it starts spicy, almost like carnation, but quickly dries down to a gorgeous woody/incense scent. One of the best resinous fragrances I’ve ever tried. My nose is not too good at distinguishing all the flowers in here, but I think orchid is the most distinct. It’s cozy and never sharp, seems like it has a hint of cocoa, but not exactly (tolu balsam?), it seems that frankincense adds smokiness, and tonka gives a touch of sweetness. It’s a heavy scent but never cloying, absolutely perfect.
maxchifa – :
It’s the only OJ I know and I have to say: It’s gorgeous!
The scent is not all that flowers that are in the notes-the base is the strongest part from the get go.
the top and middle just make a floaty appearence but only shyly in the background. Amber, incence and surely tolu(though I don’t know what it should smell like) + orange flower/ orchid with a hint of juniper I think, is most prominent. but it isn’t too strong – the sillage and longvity is good, but it isn’t too intense!
Now I feel I’ve the same problem as with SCENT by CN: hard to get, expensive-and of course I want them!
I feel like a dork because my right wrist seems to be glued under my nose-just can’t stop sniffing TOLU!
Everyone who has the chance please try to enjoy this dreamy one!
svbuben – :
This reminds me a little of mon parfum by paloma p on my skin-which is actually a good thing. It’s warm, very resinous yet powdery, and has a little bit of an 80’s classic feel.
RIDAKO2 – :
This is the first Jayne Ormonde perfume Ive tried and I must say its an absolute quality of a fragrance. Tolu is an ambery, resinous, slightly powdery scent. I smell the orchid note distinctly as it peeks through the amber and resin notes. I also smell the orange blossom which keeps on for the duration of wear and makes this perfume somewhat fresh. Its a heavy perfume, with great longevity and sillage. I think its best to wear for night. Again, Quality.
gyi227Diobtetty – :
Resins, raisins, ray-zings. This is how this perfume goes, in short. On my skin the initial blast of resins becomes sweet and slightly fruity, and then gets transformed into the warm rays of sun in a darkened wooden hall that had seen many joyful celebrations.
This is a perfume that unfolds narratively, making me want to tell a story. Here’s a woody blast of the cleaned wooden paneled room, a smells of holiday cooking (raisins) way, way in the distance, and then finally, the smell of smell of expectation of another holiday coming to the warm
wooden house where they had many good times and celebrations.
However, all this is slightly far away. You’re inside the house, but you’re not in the epicenter of cleaning, cooking, and expectation.
Actually, if, like me, you’re steeped in Jane Eyre, having read it about twenty times, you’ll follow me: this perfume makes me think about a big ball in Thornfield hall from Jane’s point of view — somewhere far away up the stairs.
In terms of perfume it means a skin scent, subtle, without loudness.
Highly recommended. Thanks for a sample, dear friend.
gidroizol – :
I’m quite sure my good Fragrantica friend who sent me this dropped it in the envelope by mistake because I wouldn’t give this to anybody. Not even my mother.
It’s Awesome
This develops along the lines of Black Orchid for me, i.e, spicy but well grounded in woody, orchid-y glorious goodness. I see previous reviewers are describing it as classy, sophisticated, feminine.
I agree to a point, but this is too sensuously earthy to be that refined. I think this scent could be fronted by Gaby of Desperate Housewives. I.e, someone who is well kept, wears all the right clothes and goes to all the right parties, and plays with the lawn boy whe