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159875369 – :
Parfum Mini review
Its so difficult to review a fragrance created so long ago in its current state, as opposed to when it was freshly created.
In my bottle the aldehydes have turned into a hairspray note opening..but once that passes realistic lush fruits of tarty raspberry and cassis surface dancing with the musky oakmoss chypre base.. the ylang and patchouli give it richness and body. The rose opens and mixes with the fruits and its just exquisite. A small soapy nuance surfaces thanks to lily of the valley and at this point I realize, despite its age, this one has held up rather well.
A sweet ambery honeysuckle accord travels under the tarty rose, which I can only ascertain this is a damascone rose, given the time frame of its release and its fruity nuances. (1981)
The Syranga makes an appearance with a citric orange blossom pineapple nuance. Its one of the oldest fragrances/bushes dating back to the Lewis and Clark expeditions- and one cant help but wonder if this is the pineapple note that was in the vintage Patous.
A powdery orris expresses its feminine edges but it doesnt dominate the florals. Tuberose and fruit nuances continue the journey giving this a very well thought out sophisticated feel. Its unique and I struggle for a comparison.The drydown is a powdery warm amber musk with oakmoss very elegantly smooth. If you removed the big animalic notes in the base of Paco Rabannes La Nuit youd get something similar in both of their drydowns (only)
It was a well done fragrance for its day, and vintage enthusiasts would enjoy it if they came across a bottle..but its a very fragile formula that isnt meant to last the sands of time, so Im sure every bottle will be in different phases of degradation. I happened to luck out on the extrait to the extent id say this was about 75-80% intact.
The back of the box reads:
The essence of pure femininity is captured in crystalline form, A sensuous mingling of Creamy Muguet, Honeysuckle, Syranga , and Rose warmed with Amber a hint of sensuality (musk) expressed. Dedicated to all that is feminine this fragrant art of love is now enthroned to thee.”
Lenivezz – :
This review is to be taken with a definite ‘your mileage may vary’ wariness, as I’m working off both 30+ year old memories and a recent experience with a leaky partial bottle. I had to decant it to get more than a stale smear.
Sadly, the scent fell apart completely a couple of days and was utterly spoiled. I fear this was due to air getting to it because of my crude decanting (I had to pour it into a stopper bottle, as I had no sample spray vials.)
When I smelled it fresh and new in 1981, there was a strong aroma of cedar in the mid-notes, but not fresh sharp cedar like animal bedding or pencil shavings– this was the mellow, sweetish resin scent of well-seasoned cedar, such as an antique wardrobe or hope chest made of solid Eastern red cedar lumber. I recognized that note even in my scent ignorance, because we owned a couple of cedar storage pieces that were well above the century mark in age.
At the time, Sculptura hit me as a very unusual scent. My mother and sister hated it, and rolled down the car windows on the ride home. I couldn’t keep my nose off my wrist, and wished for years after that I’d bought it, for love of the scent as much as the artistic bottles. (Mind you, my mother and sister loved big white florals like Tatiana and fruity things like Tresor exclusively, and this scent is the polar opposite!)
Shortly thereafter, due to life circumstances, all fragrance left my life for years and years. Reviving this love recently, I bought a partial bottle of Sculptura on Ebay, that turned out to have a nonfunctioning sprayer.
Dabbed on, it gave a definite vintage 80’s perfume vibe, but wasn’t overpowering and territorial as that era’s scents tended to be. (Opium, I’m lookin’ at you, sir!) I’d tag it more a 70’s scent in spirit.
Other than the vanilla, which I didn’t smell as a distinct note, I agree with the user pyramid above of musk, amber, oakmoss, cedar and patchouli. I detected very little floral, and no fruity scents at all. The top notes were definitely gone-off, though, so that’s probably where all the flowers/fruit had been.
This aged/damaged remnant lost almost all the powerful antique cedar scent I’d adored all those decades ago, too, but it still left a lingering, luxurious fragrance on my clothes for days… I hated to have to launder it away!
For that dry-down alone, it’s become my unicorn, but one that I’m reluctant to actively pursue. I don’t want to fall in absolute lustlove with a fragrance that’s well on its way to extinction, you see. I’ll always keep the empty bottle on my dresser, though, for the pure visual pleasure.
If you do happen across a functioning bottle of Sculptura, it will be well worth taking a chance to purchase it, if you enjoy vintage Chypre Florals.