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koliacloud – :
A run-of-the-mill neroli cologne with a dash of Choward’s violet scented/flavored chewing gum and powdery notes…Neroli dominates in this bright, sharp, floral and slightly feminine leaning fragrance whose name roughly translates to dirty brat. Imagine the scent of a perfumed bratty kid chewing some sweet violet flavored gum… I would have liked this much more if the candied violet and bubblegum accords were more prominent relative to neroli and it had been less sharp and more sweet as the notes may lead one to believe. A mediocre fragrance release by a young up and coming nose riding the coattails of Frederic Malle’s famous name and brand. A great effort that tries and fails to be different…nice to sample but probably not worth the asking price or exclusive status.
SamPugEmumn – :
Oh dear! Esteé Lauder’s commercial hand starts to show its greedy little fingers on this one.
In a nutshell this is the cheaper/ lesser version of >>Enfant Térrible<< by L’Etat Libre D’Orange, which I much prefer due to its originality and strength/ composition.
I am beginning to wonder whether Frederic Malle is beginning to lose its pole position as a trailblazer of originality (which is the true essence and foundation of the brand), but I am sure that head office would tell me otherwise….
Why don’t you judge for yourself?
My advice: Try >>Enfant Térrible<< first and then draw your own conclusions…..
Verdict: 3/10. Plagliarism.
faq12432 – :
Apparently this is not sold in the U.S. The SA at the West Hollywood boutique said it was a French exclusive.
It’s now available. I need to go test this one.
ganimed – :
One of my lessons from my review years regarding the marketing dynamics of perfumery between its commercial, niche and exclusive segments is the fact that any style of composition can be transposed from one universe to another.This is true even to sectors where there is not necessarily a significant gain in quality in the formula or the final result, as is the case of the Colognes, which continue to be produced cheaply and fulfilling its purpose, which is to provide a pleasant freshness. However, in recent years the genre has gained a new prestige and today you can charge the price you want to pass on the idea of quality and premium selection of materials. And if there is a name that has prestige and artistic credibility for this is that of Frederic Malle.
Sale Gosse is a typical example of what niche perfumery has become in recent years, victim of the same problem of commercial perfumery: more concept than execution itself. The name is provocative, referring to a brat child, one with no exactly the best manners. The brand also promises a perfume that is based on the formulation of a Cologne with something “daring” – nuances of candies, violets, chewing gum. But honestly, that’s more concept / excuse to surf in the fact that classic Colognes sell according to the way you present them.
For a perfume that presents itself as provocative and that is sold with nuances gourmands Sale Gosse is not convincing. On the contrary, it is the scent of a polished child, clean and well behaved, arranged by the mother and who obeys her orders not to get dirty. As much as the perfume promises notes that may sound modern and rebellious within the genre, the end result is very close to the interpretation of a Cologne in the style of Acqua di Parma: a floral citrus that does not escape the aromatic nuances. I see how the use of an orange blossom scent could have given a more sweet and fruity scent, but the brand stays away from that and the perfumer here focuses on the citrus, medicinal and half bitter nuances of the neroli. Curiously, the way it is worked almost makes the neroli in some moments sound almost like a green and citric rose punctuated by herbal aromas. And even at the base the scent is well behaved, evolving into a clean musky aroma that matches the genre and with a performance that is reasonable for a cologne but that disappoints a bit for a scent of this price range. If this is Frederic Malle’s idea of a Sale Gosse, I think the brand or perfumer needs to know more kids, but in my opinion the concept here used like in other brands, just a pretext for creation.
vladimir_gorohovskiy – :
On my skin, Sale Gosse is primarily a bright, green neroli-dominated eau de cologne. It opens with the fresh, herbal minty tone of rosemary, and bracingly soapy, bitter greenness of petit grain. Occasional ginger-like zestiness of bergamote and the metallic grit of lavender pop up, further underscoring the cleansing, invigorating nature of an eau de cologne.
The neroli soon appears and takes the leading role after the initial galvanizing opening. The neroli here exhibits a subtle camphoraceous, even mushroom-like trace of indole, and the fluffy sweetness of orange blossom, albeit very gentle, which grants Sale Gosse a more natural feeling despite its overall bright, clean, soapy nature.
While some eau de cologne proceeds to reveal a woody base from then on, Sale Gosse develops a slightly tart fruity sweetness about 1 hour in, which makes it appear slightly more feminine as an eau de cologne. At first, this fruity tart sweetness combined with the green petit grain, reminds me of unripe green mandarine. As the tartness recedes, it vaguely recalls the herbal sweetness of violet candy and the woody sweetness of strawberry. But this sweetness acts as mere footnotes to the overall green, refreshing neroli, and at no point does it smell outright gourmand.
If I try to think about the Malabar bubblegum, there is indeed a discreet powdery texture. Adding the cheerful, albeit soft fruity sweetness, I can indeed see the reference to the bubblgum. But it’s far from being a strong and distinctive note, and can easily be described as just a touch of joyful red fruits and violet.
This already soft fruity sweetness doesn’t last long, either. It soon gets lost in the pristine, tranparent green neroli and white musk about 2 hours in. And Sale Gosse remains so until the end. The sillage is mostly soft, and becomes extremely close to skin after 2 hours. It lasts merely 5 hours on my skin.
As I was expecting a more prominent Malabar candy accord and a daring juxtaposition of candy and fresh eau de cologne, finding Sale Gosse a mostly safe green neroli is disappointing to me. But overall, it’s still very pretty and solidly done.
Fans of pure, crisp neroli eau de cologne might want to check it out, especially if you’re looking for a version with a slightly feminine fruity twist. The candy and bubblegum accord emphasized in the press release is pretty minor on my skin as well. Therefore, I’d encourage those who are wary of sweet notes to give it a try, but would suggest against a blindbuy if you’re intrigued by the Malabar accord.