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despera – :
For the new trilogy of exclusive fragrances released in 2018 Bvlgari was inspired by famous gemstones that are known for their symbolism of power and their strong presence in royalty. Rubinia represents one of the most well-known gem stones, the Ruby, which with its intense and striking red is considered the stone of love, energy, power and passion. Red and passion certainly could have led to a fragrance of red roses, though the brand avoids an obvious path and seeks to emphasize the feminine side of ruby and its light in a fragrance centered on a red sandalwood accord.
From the existing woods in the olfactory of a perfumer the sandalwood is an excellent choice when you want to build a woody scent for the female audience. Its aroma forms a beautiful synergy when juxtaposed with flowers, mainly jasmine and ylang, with the lactonic aspects of these flowers combining with the lactonic aspects of the wood. Alberto Morillas goes that way by building the fantasy of red sandalwood that dominates Rubinia.
The dynamics of perfume end up behaving as if the Oriental floral theme of Guerlain Samsara was re-imagined for today’s perfumery style. Rubinia suggests the red glow with the use of ionones, which give a powdery and lipstick nuance to the composition. The flowers also shine, with a kind of abstract floral accord, one that makes me think of the delicate floral freshness that is hard to catch when you extract the aroma of flowers. Jasmine and ylang nuances are intertwined with sophisticated powdery touches, rose nuances and the creamy, woody scent of sandalwood. As the perfume evolves it suggests its warmer and more passionate side with a base that has a roasted impession, something of the almondy side of tonka and an amber and resinous aroma. It is a very elegant composition as a whole with a kind of delicacy and luminosity that does not seem to be so easy to create and guarantee a good performance. Certainly expensive, but well executed and without resorting to clichés to create its theme.