Description
The third fragrance of the Private Collection was created by Aerin Lauder in honour of her late grandmother, Estee Lauder, and the perfume was named Jasmin White Moss. Estee Lauder worked on this fragrance in 1980, but it stayed unfinished.
The perfume arrives on the market in July 2009, and it incorporates: mandarin, black currant buds absolute, Sambac jasmine absolute, bergamot, galbanum, Indian jasmine absolute, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, patchouli, white moss and vetiver. The fragrance is available as 30 and 75ml edp, as well as 30ml parfum. There is also a solid version of the perfume and it will be backed in a box shaped like a luxurious pendant. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Marc Chaillan.
gir741speagoessenda – :
Kept putting off buying this because it seemed an extravagance. Wish I had done it before it was discontinued. ☹️
shouddele – :
Chanel Cristalle EDP.
Exactly the same perfume. Jasmin White Moss is slightly softer; true to Estee, Cristalle is somewhat sharper; true to Chanel.
Jasmin + Oakmoss + Feminine Vetiver
Dreambegemot – :
I had a bottle of 50ml in October 2013. It did not quite hit my taste, so I exchanged it.
However, edp is a good perfume, about 8/9 hours lasts. Mostly a mixture of jasmine and galbanum, and some oak moss. It resembles a Red Doo bit without a honeycomb. It has an interesting 1 ingredient – iris root. For me, this root has nothing to do with iris flower, because I do not smell anything. This root is rather spicy and gives a whole degree to the whole note that I did not like and which for a long time did not occure in my fragrance. But Estee’s daughter series, Aerin Lauder, is generally recommendable.
baltur – :
Fine, sparkling scent with unexpected intensity. It smells like a tropical, damp garden in which the jasmine together with the orange grows. In perfume the development of jasmine and moss is the most prominent. Because the blooming jasmine can be a “deadly weapon”, I am extremely pleased that, unlike the other two fragrances from the Private Collection series, it is atypical, mild to slightly “translucent”. Beautiful and wearable at the same time. Thanks to this scent I look forward to rain and misty weather, in such days it smells absolutely irresistible …
SKWANT – :
I have a brand new sealed in wrapper bottle of this in the Parfum strength with the blue stones on the cap. I already have two and it last a long time so I am willing to part with it. Please private message me for details.
vadd – :
Upon spraying Jasmine White Moss, I can immediately smell an earthy combo of moss, galbanum and bergamot. The bergamot shimmers and sparkles despite being rendered quite dry because of the moss. The salty aspect of the moss is present, but the scent feels very smooth and lightweight.
Sweet white floral gradually permeates the earthy moss, resulting a melon-like succulence. I’m unable to perceive it as jasmine per se, and it smells more like gardenia to me when it becomes slightly oily, even a bit buttery after about 2 hours.
The moss and the sweet floral eventually melt together after about 4 hours. The sweet yet airy floral smoothens and lifts the earthy moss, while the later one harnesses the sweetness with its dry, woody texture in return, forming an elegant skin scent sometimes reminiscent of fuzzy peach skin.
The sillage is relatively soft and the longevity is around 9 hours. Jasmine White Moss feels very classic to me, and it gives out a timeless grace and elegance. I really appreciate that the moss retains a significant presence throughout the while development, yet the fragrance manages to maintain a certain spaciousness and brightness. If you happen to be like me, who is learning to appreciate chypre, I think it would make a lovely starter.
bsa2 – :
I have wanted this for so long and I finally got my hands on a sample. I love the opening, a nice strong blast of oakmoss. That becomes softened with the entrance of the jasmine. I never really get any of the other notes. If I could just have that opening throughout, I would get a full bottle in a heartbeat. Sadly this disappears on my skin within an hour. If I stick my nose to my arm I can get a very faint floral. Glad I tried before committing!
Smert – :
this perfume is beautiful! and somehow, it makes me feel happy, optimistic.
could be the lovely blend of jasmine, orange flower (the main florals for me) touched by the heavenly oak moss…on that rich slightly sweet, woody base. the greenery. it is hard for me to describe such a stunner, as i am no perfumista. Or it could be that my feelings are just memories of my teenage Cristalle scented self…as that is what it reminds me of…Cristalle EDT, but better.
So so glad i bought it based on everyone’s reviews.
Gogitashvili – :
I would lo love to hear from someone who has tried the parfum ..
serga javoronkow – :
This has a real woodsy feel to it. It reminds me of what a Woodland Elf may smell like. The floral bubbly freshness has a slight undertone of spice. I feel it is soft like a microfiber blanket. (Lets not say its silk or as hum-drum as cotton.) A comfortable softness that is not too heavy. I am using it now in winter. Though I warn you to use sparingly. It is straightforward. No meandering or muddying here. It is a clean straight path to grandmothers house through the woods. This scent stays with you. I am considering it for my wedding in august and look forward to this scent unfolding in the heat. I consider this a perfect scent for my 30’s. This is the first chypres I have much experience with. I need it a bit more complicated. Overall I am happy to have met this as my first friend in the chypres family.
eclipsio – :
I feel really blessed to have this fragrance. I bought this as a vintage “mini” bottle (about an inch and s half tall). The only lettering is on the bottom of the bottle and I’m only guessing it is in this collection because it had a prominent smell of ylang ylang in it (again just guessing). This was s rare find because of its size and the fact it is pure perfume.
At first it was very powerful because of the fact that it is the real deal and you could smell the Orient at first and as it slowly dies down you can smell the floral and woodsy, with a hint of woodsy followed by a warm powderey smell. It seems like it is the best of all three notes.
This is a very sophisticated perfume not to be taken lightly, but to be worn on that special date or occasion or even out with the girls as a wonderful topic of conversation piece. This has a very European smell (very high society – think Diamond & pearls, designer purse & couture).
Again, I have the perfume version and not the EDP and that this is vintage and not reformulated (if they have done so).
coflongo – :
A pretty-ish scent, but nothing extraordinary — especially given the pricetag and the exclusive “private” appellation — with jasmine taking the backseat in favor of the moss. There’s a quiet vetiver here, a purple note, maybe iris, and an overripe orange. There is a discernible tangy quality, and the overall effect is like rubbing acerola berry vitamin c tablets on your skin. It is long-lasting, but as it was too linear, therefore, I experienced a sort of scent fatigue with this one.
ETA: I bought a sample of Jean Patou 1000 and this is a dead ringer for it.
kolyasic1 – :
My only daughter’s wedding is two weeks away. This is what I wear for the day. Chanel No 19 will come later as my evening scent. I think my daughter is wearing Champaca Absolute and whilst I didn’t want to clash with hers I also wanted to have a sillage trail. Is that selfish? Bring out the vanilla sky and the white picket fences; this is the perfume I want to wear on my daughter’s wedding day. Kelly Caleche was my second choice. I wore Annick Goutal’s ‘Passion’ for my son’s wedding. Do I love Cristalle?
You bet your bottom dollar I do, but she wasn’t going to last past the first hour, so I researched how close I could get. Thank you Aerin Lauder and Estee for the white moss mist. Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue
zonlainn – :
The first spray of this perfume gave me a wonderful rush of white flowers, not particularly, to my nose, jasmine, actually closer to gardenia. I could also detect the galbanum and the ylang-ylang, giving it a lovely creamy feel. I did not get any moss or citrus at all.
After about 2 hours, I had a second spray, and then I could smell the lovely woody, slightly musty vetiver and moss blending beautifully with the white florals. About an hour after this, I could suddenly smell the citrus, bergamot and mandarin, quite strongly.
I enjoyed every phase of the journey, but in different ways. I found the sillage to be quite strong initially, but more of a skin scent in the dry-down.
Sadly, I only had one sample of this intriguing perfume, so we have not really been able to get on intimate terms. I shall have to get more samples: I feel this is a scent to build a relationship with, not just a single date.
sana15041981 – :
In my experience Estée Lauder’s private collection fragrances that I have tried have been HUGE fragrances with so much oomph and lasting power, that I found them completely overwhelming. I had a bottle of Gardenia and Tuberose that I just could not wear because it was so overpowering on me even though I love both tuberose and gardenia. I gave that bottle away.
Therefore, it was with much trepidation that, based on the reviews here, I bought Jasmine and White Moss. I shouldn’t have worried so! Of all the Estée scents, this one is the most soft and delicate.
The first spray is a spray of fresh white flowers laced with rather a sharp green note. On me this fades very quickly, to be replaced by a soft, shimmering white floral with a bit of mossy earth blended in. I find I cannot detect any jasmine, but a completely artistic blend of the softest white flowers. The moss added gives the fragrance almost a warm cozy feeling. The dry down phase doesn’t change much from the middle notes, it just keeps mellowing out and spreading the flowers and moss thinner and thinner. On me this is now a perfect skin scent. In fact, of all the Lauder’s I have tried, and I have practically tried them all! this one is the only one that I find not to be a fragrance bomb! I adore this fragrance and look forward to wearing it often this spring and summer!
Sillage I found to be moderate during the opening, fading to soft during the middle notes and dry down.
Longevity is, on me is also moderate, lasting 4-6 hours.
Roma308 – :
On another thread I was bemoaning the disappointment I experienced when I bought a 21st century issue of my beloved Diorella. A fellow Fragrantican suggested I try Jasmin White Moss EDP.
I love this fragrance! While it lacks the superb complexity of Diorella, I find it to be an acceptable substitute – which brings a great sense of relief that there is still something around for me that is easily obtainable.
It is certainly a floral (and far more so than Diorella), but I agree with others here that it isn’t necessarily jasmine. On me it is super-green and full of fresh white flowers, slightly sharp and edgy and less lush say than Tuberose Gardenia.
I’ve always loved the Lauder fragrances’ complexity and sillage, and I find it here again in Jasmin White Moss.
This is practically the only non-vintage perfume I would buy again.
vladimirford3 – :
Yesterday I went to Nordstrom to buy my serum by Estee Lauder, that it is amazing product, and the lady gave me a sample the Jasmin White Moss perfume and wow!! this perfum is really delicious and it goes perfectly with my skin’s chemistry!! Definitively I am going to buy this perfum through the next week. I love love love Estee Lauder!!!!! Actually I am wearing White Linen and also it is amazing perfume.Well, I am a perfume lover and ever I am looking for a new scent. 🙂
nikolaslomber – :
This scent has the honor of being my very first chypre. Usually I use orientals, floral orieentals specifically, or woody florals.
I went to Estée Lauder to buy PC Tuberose Gardenia, and since I was there I also tried Jasmin White Moss.
It might have been the temperature (it was around 33 degrees C in Budapest yesterday), but Jasmin White Moss just smelled wonderful to me (and Tuberose Gardenia just too overwhelming). I did not smell anything unpleasant that I usually associate with chypres, just a nice, clean and cool scent, mild jasmin, bergamot, then it switched to really smooth vetiver and moss.
It is a long-lasing scent, I could still smell it on my wrist this morning after spraying it on around 6PM yesterday.
All in all, a very pleasant surprise. 🙂
Trol-1 – :
I get a whiff of my early twenties when I wear this. It’s like an instant teleportation down the memory lane. And that’s because it smells like an exact replica of Cristalle, eau de toilette, circa 1989. I remember letting my precious, almost brand new, 50ml bottle fall on the bathroom floor and shatter into pieces (a very traumatic event for the cash strapped student/budding perfumista I was at the time). The scent that pervaded the whole apartment for a couple of weeks has remained indelibly printed in my limbic brain.
Collection Privee Jasmine White Moss smells exactly like this.
Interestingly enough, I went and smelled the newer iteration of Cristalle: on my skin, the eau de toilette now has a plastic watermelony scent, and the and eau de parfum is simply sweet, cheap and fake.
So I am very happy to have discovered the Private Collection, Jasmine and White Moss. My skin loves chypre and moss… It just becomes soft, close to the skin and enveloping. The jasmine is there too, but it is subdued. I detect some wood, maybe vetiver, and possibly a hint of orange blossom. Longevity is amazing and it is a close to the skin kind of smell — which I like.
That said, it is a very different kind of perfume from the usual offerings, and I definitely understand it may not work with other people’s tastes and chemistries.
voytsergey2506 – :
People are comparing this fragrance to Chanel’s Crystal and I feel that some of the base notes are very similar to Chanel’s Chance Eau du Fraiche – they are definitely in the same family, but Chrystal and Fraiche smell a bit more refined than Estee Lauder’s creation. Fraiche is much more earthy and natural than Estee Lauder’s creation.
I love certain aspects of this fragrance. It has definite silage and lasts for hours- but has a slight “Plastic” or “Chemical” smell to it, as it wears with my chemistry. This was apparent from the first spritz of this in the department store, but became much more apparent as time wore on.
This is dancing the line of something that may be becoming a masterpiece… but is not quite finished. It needs a bit more “tweaking” (tweaking – as in “fine tuning”).
I’d like to see this one go “back to the drawing board”– and worked on, to try to make it a bit more wearable and less chemical. I think that Estee Lauder is really ONTO SOMETHING here, but this fragrance was very similar to a painting that may get tossed under the bed and is never pulled out for a full art show. It needs more work to become the masterpiece that it could potentially become.
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Who knows, perhaps it is just MY NOSE– and CHEMISTRY!!! Some women may really LOVE THIS!!! But in my opinion, it is not quite cooked yet. It needs some more tweaking and then — truly may become a complete Masterpiece!
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The bottle design is good, it has unique styling and is saying “Masterpiece” – but the fragrance itself needs more tweaking.
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As it stands now, I may want to sample this product – but would not buy this.
777.san4es.777 – :
Estée Lauder Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss 2009 by Aerin Lauder , nose Jean Mark Chaillan. Hardly stock standard or obvious, this release is packing earthy moss and parched woods. Rumour has it this is a unfinished fragrance from 1980, picked up where Aunty Estée left off , there are subtle hint of jasmine floating through this superb mossy green floral. New notes added by Aerin are mandarin and black current absolute, this is a fragrance created to honour heritage and family tradition. It also offered in a Parfum and annual limited edition sold perfumes.
19nik08 – :
I honestly can’t smell any jasmine in it, at least not what I know the actual flower smells like.
However, it’s a nice soft smell (not pungent and sharp like others have said). Kind of like a just showered smell, but a shower smell you get by using the products of an upscale spa. Very nice and delicate.
The sillage is semi-strong for the first minutes but afterwards stays very close to the skin, at least for me it does.
On another note, I really can’t see any similarity between PCJWM and Chanels’ Cristalle, the latter smells like bitter grass on me. Which proves that people should always try the perfumes before buying and not rely solely on reviews as every person has a different experience with them.
groznov2011 – :
wanted to try this for a very long time, for so long that I almost bought it without sniffing because the notes seem perfect on paper. However, on my skin the scent which was divine in my head turned into a cloyingly sweet stink bomb..Very disappointing. It was mostly jasmine and amber on me with lots of bergamot. I’d still advise it to jasmine lovers, as it’s definitely the dominating note. For the rest of us, especially moss lovers like me- I’m afraid we’ll just have to keep on looking for that perfect moss..
lilinuga – :
I agree – very sharp and pungent. Not my idea of a jasmine scent. Love the tuberose-gardenia but this one is not on my like-list.
kirill00811 – :
Sharp and pungent, do not get jasmine at all from this! Not for me.
ALLEXXAN – :
It cannot be compared to Diorella!. Maybe to Diorissimo as it reminds a bit its jasmine notes… It is nice, clean and tender but, not something completely new and unique.
Assicmunc – :
Jasmine White Moss has the most beautiful set of opening notes! Bergamot, galbanum, orange flower, and a touch of mandarin. I find them very uplifting, and they took me by surprise! If I could preserve this phase of the fragrance, this would surely become a favorite scent of mine.
I must note than I am not a jasmine-lover, and I was happy to discover that (at least on my skin), it doesn’t feel like a dominant note in this composition. Instead, the earthy oak moss took center stage. This makes the scent feel a bit gloomy to me, but I have to remind myself that, at times, oakmoss can be a very oppressive note on my skin.
Behind the oakmoss, I can feel powdery violets (thankfully very subtle or they begin to smell like lipstick on me) and a balancing “effect” of ylang ylang. (I am very sensitive to ylang ylang and I still perceive it as quite “neutral” in this composition.) Later, dry vetiver begins to emerge, softening the base.
In the end, I don’t have the right chemistry for this fragrance, because the dry-down is like dead weight on my skin, but I can easily tell that it’s only a chemistry issue, and this would be a magnificent scent on those who can wear floral chypres with a wonderfully enveloping oakmoss note.
chima 1 – :
This is a difficult review for me to write because I have mixed feelings about this one and I also wanted to fall head over heels in love, but I just couldn’t.
Yes, it is most certainly gorgeous, obviously composed of fine ingredients, and sillage and longevity are tops. Beautifully packaged, too. It is complex and earthy, but it isn’t the earthy type that agrees with me because it turns sharp(?) on my skin. I’ll guess it’s one of the following notes: jasmin, patchouli, oakmoss or perhaps just the combination. It doesn’t make me rush to scrub it off, but I have this feeling of anticipation for the scent to develop in a way that it just doesn’t on me.
It’s heady and bold, not a mellow, earthy, woody scent and I think this could be a “style” issue for me- I lean toward the latter. Also, I haven’t been wearing perfumes that long and the chypres are a tricky group for me (esp. aldehydes and oak moss)- I want to like them, but maybe (hopefully) my nose is still being “seasoned” to appreciate them.
Even though I don’t particularly love it on my own skin, I still have the desire to take the cap off the bottle and inhale… I really do wish I could have worn this!
vschik – :
o how much i vant this beauthy!!extrem good luxury well done like a cristal if a cristal can be smelled .
traitomaham – :
I am so happy that everybody here agrees on that.
THIS IS A SERIOUSLY GOOD PERFUME.
All that herbal complexity that is mastered so well that in the end it feels simple as clean air, that alpine purity of dark green leaves.
And then you smell the earthiness. The wet ground.
The resins and the vetiver take you to a place where no tricks and charms are needed.
This to me, is peace of mind bottled.
I think that mostly “Estee” or even “Knowing” that I also love, share this calming foresty feeling, but this one is more gentle and citric.
So, no flowery ribbons. No sweetness.
Oakmoss like (sigh) oh, moss.
BLAST – :
My mother and one of my best friends wear this wonderful scent. It lingers a lot, and spreads a delicious flower blast at the atmosphere…
Scent – 10/10
Sillage – 10/10
Longevity – 10/10
Hope they never discontinue this.
popados – :
it smells…expencive! i love it….
shkval777 – :
Smells lika a vintage jasmine cologne my dad used to bring from the middle-east.
Its also very green and citrusy, its very sharp and fresh. But for me personally, this fragrance is pretty useless. I do like it a lot, but that’s mainly because it reminds me of dads old cologne.
Projection : 4/5*
Longevity : 5/5*
Edit: Longevity is the BOMB! Stayed on my skin forever! Its a very elegant scent I must add. I’m liking it more & more.
I wish there was a ‘kinda like’ or ‘growing on me’ button.
* A million thanks to nathalieZ for the sample.
NataQi – :
you have to sniff it a zillion times to detect the notes for they are perfectly well-blended and that’s rare in the perfume world nowadays
as for the scent, i -for one- adore jasmine and violets, patchouli and Ylang-Ylang are sexy and comforting consecutively and i love how they smell but the latter has a very light scent that it almost needs to be alone to be appreciated -i have a Ylang-Ylang shower gel that smells heavenly great; so to my dismay, i didn’t detect it in the frag
it has so many woody notes to my delight, and vetiver, can’t stress on how much i love vetiver, yepiiiiiiiiiie!! on my skin, no sweetness whatsoever, just green dark (weird combination? but that’s how it is) floral fume, at some point, it reminded me so much of Bvlgari Jasmin noir, but the moss in this frag is a wonderful treat ^^
this one is not for the weak-hearted, it’s not sweet, floral, yummy, green apple stuff… it’s for the chypre, green, dark sexy and pleasantly strong fumes lovers, i simply adore it <3
the longevity is impressive by the way, i expected it to be more impressive though, a couple of hours more won’t hurt but i can’t complain with a scent like that, this is a unique frag and the sillage is out of this world
_Liho_ – :
This is a wonderful stuff, and smells like a bunch of flowers in the middle of a grass carpet. Despite beeing composed by flowers, this is a very strong fragrance that LASTS DAYS on skin and clothes.
BRAVO!!!!!
Anfer – :
The first thing that struck me upon application was MANDARIN. More fruity than citrus. There is a bit of mandarin/orange flower going on here for a long time. The very pretty jasmine shows up in the heart. The drydown is very nice, kind of creamy/nutty, kind of sandalwoody type thing. Medium sillage, a little goes a long way, nice changes in the scent along the way, and good lasting power.
Okay, that being said, if I had to nail this down blind I would pin it as a fruity floral. For me the orange-jasmine is just the most dominant feature. Now, among many the ‘fruity floral’ thing leaves a bad taste on one’s mouth, as it conjures many a sicky-sweet celebuscent aimed at teenagers. This is a tastefully done fruity floral, with fruits that are simply their fruity selves, and not sugared syrupy fruit holograms. The florals are very pretty, and smooth, and rich. There is a gasp of the ‘white moss’ accord toward the drydown but I don’t find it too much.
I like this very much, and I am happy to wear it, but truthfully when I want an oakmossy chypre floral I will reach for Aromatics Elixir or some or the sort. I find the idea of constantly having to ‘clean up’ types of scents annoying. This is hardly a deep woody mossy scent. It is fruits, florals, and an inoffensive drydown.
I guess what I am saying is that JWM is a totally sanitized perfume that will never offend anyone. Part of my love of old time scents like AE is that they are almost 3D in their composition, while things like a ‘modern’ chype floral has no comparable personality.
Regardless, I do like this scent for what it is. The jasmine is really beautiful.
KrasatulyNika – :
A gem! Beauty! I only have the 30 ml but still i love it!!!!!!!
tema_96 – :
I swear this is a copycat of a legendary oakmoss monster: Chanel’s Cristalle. I am a Chanel lover, and when comparing the two perfumes side-by-side, Chanel stands out as being more complex, better crafted, and more beautiful all around. Both perfumes smell a lot like a linden-scented French soap. Although I do love Chanel, I would honestly purchase this perfume over Cristalle because the sillage and projection are far superior. Contrary to what other reviewers have said, it surprises me that this perfume was built around jasmine because I really didn’t feel the jasmine was prominent. I live in an area where jasmine is bountiful during the summer. I catch strong whiffs of it constantly. If I didn’t know anything about this perfume, you would not be able to convince me that there was jasmine in it. The white moss takes center stage.
boris41166 – :
I was sent a sample of this gorgeous stuff: Oh my! I smell so good!
When I lived in the UK I had lovely jasmine climbing up a trellis, and that is the strong singing scent I recognised after the first spritz. The scent broadened and I detected the violet and African Orange–but oh! what really makes it is when the balance of the bergamot, galbanum, vetiver and Estee Lauder’s special white moss, (developed to replace oak moss) chime in.
It’s not too sweet: it’s perfectly balanced. The pure clarity of the green notes shines through and compliments the heavenly jasmine.
It is still freezing here and there is nothing like a brisk walk in the icy cold to bring out a scent. Glorious, glorious– a slice of sun in the snow!
Now I must start saving for a real bottle…
Edited to add: lovely staying power, too.
KRASNODAR – :
I don’t like jasmine-dominated scents too much – but funnily enough – this one does not seem to be governed by the white flower – in spite of its name. Just received my second bottle of the Eau de Parfum, because it has become one of my absolute favourites. It’s elegant, well-balanced, fresh and seems like a mix of my beloved Diorella and the crisp, elegant Christalle by Chanel! You may not find this too exciting, but I for my part are delighted with the staying-power, high quality and sheer beauty of this “Private Collection” fragrance, which I prefer to many other recent perfumes and which is the best Estee Lauder has produced in years!
крот – :
Despite the ‘rave’ reviews, and much to my dismay, this fragrance did NOT work well on me! I didn’t get any of the mandarin, black currant buds absolute, Sambac jasmine absolute, bergamot, galbanum; I did manage to get a hint of the Indian jasmine absolute, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, patchouli, white moss and vetiver which readily turned into a deep whiff of Crest mint toothpaste! I gifted the mini I bought to someone who will appreciate far more than I!
andalestr – :
I have a hit and miss relationship with jasmine, and unfortunately this is a miss. I smell indoles which reminds me of the smell of public restrooms. There is also something very scorched about this scent–like hot bricks or sand that actually caused my eyes to start tearing up.
bosss777 – :
I love chypre fragrances especially the more fruity ones. I found the floral ones a bit heavy /heady and the contrast between the green- sharp- moss notes and the heavy white florals doesn’t work well with my nose.
However, I found Jasmine White Moss quite appealing and well composed.
There are few modern chypre from Chanel and Dior that I really dislike. All the new regulations and restrictions affected the quality of many perfumes but I think the impact on the chypre family is more than evident. It is unfortunate. There are few trends that try “to play by the rule” and invent new combinations that would replace the old ones, however the new compositions lack balance (in my opinion Miss Dior Cherie and Chance Eau Fraiche are un example).
I found the old constructions very smooth and hard to read (aprox 70% of a chypre composition I can’t really point down to individual notes as they are very well blended). Basically, in many new composition the notes are screaming, playing individual themes with obvious disaccord and no elegance.
I remember the chypre fragrances were consider “chic”, “intellectual”, refined, elegant, etc. Enough of the past.
Jasmine white moss is an exception from this pattern. I understand it is hard to respect the regulations and find replacing notes for the banned oils…but that makes or breaks a “master nose”.
Estee Lauder managed to get this composition right. It still starts strong with separate notes: bergamot, jasmine, galbanum, moss (a special kind, newly created), and vetiver. Lots of noise. But in 15 min everything starts singing the same song: “ I am lovely”.
It is difficult to bring harmony in a chypre, but this is it, the jasmine starts blooming (probably with help from the other floral notes that are less obvious), and stays fresh with orange –bergamot accords and green with a sharp bite (violet, orris, vetiver, moss). After one hour the sharper tones become mellower, the moss is more assertive and the jasmine (a clean and smooth one) reigns the earthy –sweet dry down (patchouli, vetiver, ylang-ylang,).
Surprisingly the bergamot/orange flower notes will stay until the end, sheer and fresh.
Beautiful, refreshing, non-indolic jasmine chypre, very easy to wear.
8.2/10
BTW, maybe somebody from fragrantica has time to correct the notes… at least to replace the oakmoss …
queesee – :
Estee Lauder Private Collection JASMINE WHITE MOSS is a rich and compelling jasmine creation which I can heartily recommend to all and only jasmine lovers.
To be perfectly frank, I am somewhat surprised at how nice this is, in part because of the name–I think that I was expecting some sort of indolic agent of suffocation. In fact, this is a complex and subtle composition comprising high-quality components skillfully combined.
I love, love, love the jasmine here, and it is complemented well by equally appealing moss and galbanum notes, thanks to which the longevity is quite good. I sense that these ELPC edps veer closer to the perfume category than the edt, for the essences seem natural yet the staying power is nonetheless great, even with only light application.
I like JASMINE WHITE MOSS so much that it’s going on my wish list, despite my mild aversion to the pretentious “private collection” concept. “Just the scent, Ma’am!” (-:
zadun – :
This fragrance probably would appeal to chypre lovers who aren’t necessarily white floral fans- because, in all honesty, all that I smell are green notes from top to bottom, with the exception being a slight floral-woody dry-down- the staying and potency aren’t the greatest, in my experience- I didn’t get even a whiff of jasmne-
master14187 – :
I don’t necessarily love jasmine but the white moss really makes this scent. On me after it warmed on the skin about an hour, is earthy and calming. I applied the tiniest bit but hours later it still lingers. This is the kind of fragrance you want someone to wear who you plan to hug a lot.
Memwk606Diobtetty – :
If Private Collection Jasmine White Moss heralds the future of chypres in the post-oakmoss era, you may count on me to sound the trumpet, light the fireworks, lift up the banner and lead the parade. PCJWM is absolutely, positively drop-dead GORGEOUS. Granted, I am predisposed to like any combination of jasmine, bergamot, galbanum and ylang ylang, and I’m at the edge of swooning in pleasure when they’re simultaneously