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newzheka2010 – :
I have just lucked into a full unopened bottle of the EDT, or “Eau de Lanvin”.
An opening sniff from the bottle reveals PRETEXTE to be sweeter than either ARPEGE or MY SIN, with a head not only of bergamot and aldehydes, but sweet orange. Indeed an almost Cointreau-like note is felt; a slightly dusky hay-ey quality haunts it, pricked delicately by some black pepper.
The rose and hawthorn bloom perfumily to give the scent a noticeably “happier” vibe than other Lanvins. There is a fleeting “varnished wood” note that one recognizes from ARPEGE.
The base is rich with tonka, a ghosted patchouly, opoponax and vanilla, a combination which almost seems to confer a caramelized sucree hint beneath the hay-ey soft florals.
PRETEXTE seems more festive and extrovert than MY SIN and ARPEGE.
I confess, I do not pick out a leather quality, per se. I seem to read this as an “Aldehydic Fruity Chypriental” perhaps?
This is a wonderful oldschool fragrance.
AlexNV1984 – :
“eau ” Pretexte concentration reviewed.
Pretexte is my favorite Lanvin. It opens with aldehyde and a gorgeous narcissus and bergamot. The leather is very evident from the start, an herbal unndercurrent introduces the heart (hay? patchouli). A slight spice (carnation), Hawthorn (probably aldehyde), a starchy iris and rose (wonderful when it unfolds) keep this relatively soft , supple and dry. Its made with a different thought and age, no sweetness to be found, only upper class refinement.
The ambergris amplifies the florals and makes them shine. A slight musky marine and the leather is courtesy of a well heeled castorum that does not come off animalic in nature at all. Oppopnax gives it a silky powdery feel and a strong wood note comes from the base.
I feel Pretexte steers much more into leather-chypre. Theres a green undercurrent to it and the flowers bloom atop of it. Its gorgeous if you can find it