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alvid.valentin – :
Though I have used a few fougeres over the years, I am not normally a fougere kind of guy – I prefer the darker scents. That being said, I am enjoying Phoenix Fougere. It was the really nice jasmine note that did it for me. Fougere fragrances, like Dior Eau Sauvage, have jasmine but it is usually lost behind the stronger, what I call, “barber shop” notes. Eau Sauvage smells more like an older gentleman’s fougere. Phoenix Fougere does not give you that “Old School” feel. I would say that it is more of a “New School” kind of fougere, that any age group would enjoy.
After swiping, I got a herbaceous tart orange citrus accord. After a short time the slightly bitter floral notes came out to play. The jasmine was the most pronounced, but I did pick up some ylang-ylang and lavender in the mix. The jasmine is not the normal jasmine most people are used to. It is Jasmine Sambac. I know the smell of this one from some of Sultan Pasha’s attars. Really nice, almost animalic (for lack of a better term). After a time, light bittersweet and dry earth notes take center stage. The wood notes present themselves shortly afterward. By this time, the citrus has receded into the background.
Phoenix Fougere can be worn for work or play, and would wear best during the cooler seasons of Autumn and Winter.
If you are a fan of fougeres, try this. You will be pleasantly surprised.
Recommended.
9/10
malex752 – :
This dark thick juice is playing some tricks with me…first I wonder why this should be reserved solely for men….smelling so nice. It’s a very evocative scent then, like that “ahhh” of inhaling fresh air in the nature, so first thing that comes to my mind is a walk in the forest, but wait,it’s not a forest, it’s at the seaside, the breeze transferring scents from conifers and lime trees here and there. Then it goes deeper under the sea to the sweet and slightly salty musk of the ocean. Looking at the notes, there’s neither pine nor seaweed. So what, I give up analysing notes and simply enjoy this. And that’s maybe the point then? If I’d smell this on a man, I’d like to stick my nose to him. 🙂 Go ahead guys and give it a try,but I’ll keep my sample vial. And this will last quite long, I needed only one drop, that gave me a good sillage and a moderate longevity.
KEMPAH – :
verdant
fresh flowers
classic
natural
captivating
Some words that come to mind…
The notes pronounce themselves with clarity and merge in a way I find both multiplicious and constructed to a peak of it’s own identity. I could try to simplify what it smells like and say it’s citrusy, floral and “fern-like” but that falls short of it’s overall sophistication. It’s both classic and unique in form. It’s dense but in no way overpowering. It radiates full and succulent with an array of blissful flowers in it’s trail.
The quality is there and I do love the result of the effort put into making this composition. For all the expense the scent is rich.
klimenkogena – :
Well what can I say that was a great write up and did assuage much of my concern for the content of these fragrances against their price point. Maybe it’s overkill to have that kind of a detailed description on your website but it’s the kind of thing I look for especially when it costs that much. Thanks for taking the time and I also live near Roswell, GA so it’s interesting to see someone from around here make it in the perfume world. I’m looking to make mostly natural fragrances myself and I’m sure I’ll confront all of the associated costs you speak of. You know it would be nice to be able to try these at say a .5-1ml level to get a better idea about them before you go all in on any one of them.
Dropkling – :
As a natural perfume lover I’m thrilled to try these new scents. Anyone who is into naturals will be used to paying more for them. Quite a bit more actually but you cannot even compare them with mainstream & so called niche lines which are predominantly & sometimes completely synthetic. My favorite Aftelier is $125 for 2ml. Anyway, I feel so much better on so many levels when I wear natural perfumes. All 5 of these are going onto my must try list. BTW, Mandy Aftel’s Essence and Alchemy is a great read for anyone interested in natural perfumery.
DukeNukem1 – :
Hello Transapien,
JK DeLapp, here. =)
You raise some good concerns that I am more than happy to address.
For starters–Our 4mL vials are composed as Parfum Extraits. As the article states–only a single drop is needed for a wear, and our style of compounding has tested and shown that this style of compounding and application actually lasts the average owner of a bottle of our perfumes longer than a 100mL “spritz” bottle of French-style (alcohol-based) perfume.
–>So, don’t be fooled by the size–this is a great value!
Regarding “what ingredients are actually in this”: there are NO aroma-chemicals used in our fragrances. All of the materials are 100% Natural. We acquire materials from all over the world–literally, dozens and dozens of countries. Natural materials tend to cost more (quite a bit more), and are difficult to come by in smaller lots. For this reason, there is a tremendous amount of money that goes in to acquiring materials–sometimes, even more money is invested into the materials to make a batch (as more materials than are used must be purchased in order to acquire the materials), than the individual batch itself is worth.
We also do our best to support small, artisan-extracted operations around the Globe. These materials tend to be of superior quality, and also cost more per unit than commercially produced–or even non-perfume grade–materials. Only about 3% of the perfumery materials produced world wide are of Perfume Grade (meaning Superior in every aspect of qualification).
On that money line–one must consider the Cost of Doing Business. The price of goods is not just the cost of production. Consider Taxes, Cost of Materials, Cost of Bottles, Shipping, Rent for Space for making the perfumes, etc. Don’t forget to factor in the cost of having raw materials setting on shelves awaiting to be used. It quickly eats at your Operating Capital.
–>Also consider that the price must allot for the wholesaling of our perfumes to other boutiques and establishments. Hypothetically speaking, If a perfume costs $50 to make, and we sell it for $50–how can a boutique purchase our goods and sell it at a profit–and how can we sell it at a profit to them? In other words–prices must reflect Multiple Layers of Cost.
One must also remember that materials must first be purchased to make a batch–and more materials must be purchased in the future to replace the consumed materials. That right there takes a chunk out of the money a sale “makes,” as we must accumulate funds to cover future purchases of materials.
Lastly, one must consider that the Notes that you see presented do not encompass the entire formulation. I’ll give you a food example–when you go to a nice restaurant and read a menu, do the ingredients lists include “Salt, Pepper, Butter, Sesame Oil, all the variety of Specific Spices and other materials needed to prepare that specific dish, or does it list Duplicate Spices (for example…I may use 6-15 Distillations of a single material like Lavender–different Hydrodistillations, different Solvent Extractions (Absolutes, CO2, Alcohol extractions), etc).
–>What I am trying to say here, is that the orchestration of our formulations require multiple steps of compounding, natural ingredients that may not be listed (as listing Black Pepper, for example, may lead a consumer to thinking the fragrance might have a Spicy Note–when really it is there simply to draw out the “flavor” of a particular Note or overall fragrance)–it is quite a complicated process that is undergone to compound our fragrances.
**Not to mention–months and months–sometimes even years–of various Accords and other hand-compounded materials spent sitting and maturing on a shelf, awaiting their maturation to the point that they are ready for integration into a formula. This is LITERALLY money tied up and sitting on a shelf that cannot be accessed. This adds a tremendous Cost in the Compounding of a formulation.
–>Oftentimes, various Accords are even compounded–which may include anywhere from 3-100 ingredients–simply to create a particular Note…and it may simply be listed as “Fig”, “Jasmine”, etc–and may not necessarily notate that it is (or is not) an individual ingredient, or a Compound Accord. I often age these Accords for a MINIMUM of 6 months–often times 1+ YEARS. This requires quite a bit of money tied up in the “pipe line” of doing business.
So–I appreciate you commenting as you did–as I can totally understand your misunderstanding of just what that price actually reflects–and the quantity and quality of materials and labor necessary for the way we compound.
I hope you can see that 4mL is a deceivingly small number, and that the value for what you are paying for–which encompasses Superior Quality Natural Ingredients, as well as a specialized and complex method of Compounding–is reflected in the price of the product.
–>That price is not reflective of marketing campaigns, advertising, and unnecessary salaries. It is reflective of the Quality of Natural Materials, of the Time and Expertise required to compound the materials, and of the Amount and Quality of Attention that we pay to the Compounding and Creation of our fragrances.
These are superior quality products, and all (hopefully all!) that have purchased them can tell in a very deep, intimate, and meaningful way that there is “Something Different” about these perfumes.
As the old saying goes, “The Proof is in the Pudding.”
We invite each and every reader to take a taste of our incredible puddings.
Thanks again for your comment =)
~JK