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lelik06 – :
Interesting and top notch in conception and creativity. Very smoked vetiver juxtaposed with the cleanness of moss and synthetic floral aspect (deconstructed, not really floral. hediones and other white fl. aspect).
But the last batch I smelled has been reformulated: watered and less smoky (the women who attend me says She believed the new one better…) , the juice is darker (greener) but the smells is less potent, the vetiver go running to the synthetics ones… I think it was a wrong step.
surmaless – :
Very interesting and a sparkling beginning which goes into a more interesting and complex evolution. Green, earthy and woody. It has vetiver, tea, it’s herbal, aromatic and smoky. And what a great name: “Palais Jamais”.
Scent: 8/10
Longevity: 7/10
Projection: 4/10
andor222 – :
Harsh
увар – :
Palais Jamais is a beautiful scent, woodsy and clean, balanced with an understated herbal sweetness. It is bright, evoking, invigorating. Not a walk in the dark mysterious woods but rather a stroll in a sunny, safe and well-kept park next to a condominium.
I love to wear it occasionally but sometimes I sense that it would equally work as a room spray or a car fragrance although that odoriferant feature is common to many Etro fragrances and serves as sort of signature of this brand.
Alinialex – :
Palais Jamais is my first Etro, and though it’s become a love, it first gave me a bit of a surprise and a bit of a heartbreak.
The surprise is that it smells sweet. (Not dessert sweet—citrusy sweet.) With mandarin and orange blossom among the notes, perhaps it’s no great revelation, but since everyone describes it as a mossy, musty, green fragrance, I was surprised to find it both sweet and *orange* in color. The comparison with Collistar Profumo di Benessere had mislead me the most. Collistar is definitely and unambiguously green, lacks any hint of sweetness, and belongs more properly in the neighborhood of Sisley Eau de Campagne. Palais Jamais is mossy and musty, but it also has an almost syrupy orange quality about it.
This quality is the first to show up and the last to leave. It colors the experience from the beginning to the end. It’s fused together with the perfume’s more expectedly earthy and dry features, and initially it can be perceived as discordant. The first time wearing it, I wanted to ignore it and get to the green. But as soon as I relaxed into smelling what’s there instead of what I thought should be there, I came to crave Palais Jamais exactly as it is: a strange new harmony, ethereal and beguiling.
Evernia prunastri aka oakmoss (which someone wondered if is still listed on the label) *is* still listed on the label. It’s easily detected and gives the perfume much of its bewitching character.
The heartbreak has to do with the performance. As another reviewer said, Palais Jamais isn’t so much fleeting as it rushes through its development. The best stage, when all the notes sing in glorious harmony, lasts some 20 minutes. It makes you wish you could stop the clock. The wisps, however, last most of the day.
On the whole, I feel this delicate, unusual perfume is a treasure. A part of it is precisely that it’s not boosted by one of those aromachemicals that have the half-life of plutonium. I look forward to trying more from the same house.
Deroxuvvef – :
Starts out green with petitgrain, then softens with a bitter touch from moss; vetiver is there throughout. Never realized it before but it has a slight resemblance to Dior Eau Sauvage Parfum.
VPakeqT – :
Not my review, but there are more notes on the official website then listed here!
Love this fragrance though! It is something special and takes some time to get used to! Currently testing the Vintage formulation. Review wil follow later!
HEAD NOTE
Mandarin Orange, Bergamot, Lemon, Coriander, Cardamom
HEART NOTE
Arabian Jasmine, Palmarosa, Paraguay Petitgrain, Matè Absolute, Pepper, Birch Wood
BASE NOTE
Vetiver, Oakmoss, Clary Sage
EDIT: I do feel that this scent shines best when it is sprayed on fabric or paper. There is a subtle balance in accords and notes which can easily be off-trown combined with your skin chemistry.
Most of the time when I tested this on skin it was really odd and didn’t really show me much dept. When I combine spraying on skin and on my shirt it was just amazing! So much dept, earthy mossy damp vetiver birch, surrounded whit a citrussy bright, petigrain, green tea like aura whit a distinct muskyness! I’m in love now! (Vintage Formulation)
The mos in the vintage is really beautifull. I don’t get this as much in the newer formulation.
phidaniska – :
Such a lovely, elegant way to explore birch tar. Starts with a green tar explosion, which later quiets down to a mostly smoky vetiver fragrance, but with a lot of depth. Refined like all of Etro’s offerings, Palais Jamais is also thoroughly unique.
Just one caveat: on me, Palais Jamais _races_ through all it’s lovely stages rather quickly before settling down to a beautifully green, discreet, long-lasting base, so if it’s the birch and smoke what brought you here, try it first.
niseOmils – :
Etro is a great, if a bit underappreciated, house, and Palais Jamais might just be their best creation. I did not love it right away, but it slowly grew on me with each wearing and soon became one of my favorites. So don’t discard it after trying just once: it takes time to be understood.
Palais Jamais is green, but not brightly so. It’s a dry, dusty, slightly smoky and rubbery green. Like a discarded old tire lying in the overgrown grass by the motorway. The new formulation is brighter, more citrusy at the top, the old one – mossier and smokier. The sillage and staying power of both is moderate. It’s not a perfume that screams to the world about itself. It’s reserved, intellectual and a bit aloof. It’s a scent for overcast days, for work, for contemplation, for keeping both feet on the ground. Very personal, very unique.
xxxkirillxxx – :
I got this as part of a 5-scent Etro sample pack, which I originally purchased because I wanted to try Patchouly. After sniffing them all from the vials, however, Palais Jamais was the first one I wanted to put on my skin and WOW, am I glad I did. This scent is gorgeous.
It is verdant. Earthy. Woody. But it is soft — there is nothing sharp about this, not even at first which is unusual and intriguing. It is cozy. It is inviting. It smells as if you somehow washed your sheets in garden-scented detergent.
I tried Tom Ford Grey Vetiver a while back and I really wanted it to work on me, and it nearly did, but in the end it was just a little too sharp, a little too masculine for me to buy a bottle. This is like the Monet to Grey Vetiver’s Duchamp. Subtler, more diffuse, but also snugglier and warmer. The fresh, green petitgrain and the clean, bitter vetver are both still pronounced on my skin, but much more softly and in ways that will easily blend in to my overall vibe.
Sillage seems poor, but that could be because I dabbed it on from a vial rather than spraying. Still, there’s no way I’ll be able to avoid buying a bottle of this.
dva – :
First impression: the first drops of a summer storm hitting blocks of dusty sandstone, the smell rises hitting your nose with a mineral, earthy and dry yet humid scent. As the fragrance develops, this image becomes cloudier, citruses and herbs enter the picture, the scent becomes woodier, I do get the liquorice roots reference, with that earthy, dusty almost leathery sweetness, a perfect example where the perfume is more than a sum of the parts (vetiver, birch and oakmoss). This perfume is all but simple. At first I dismissed it, only upon second wearing did I really grasp the creativity. I expect I will continue to discover this fragrance with its subtle facets. All in all, great fragrance, perfect for reflecting on perfume as an art form. A refreshing attempt to create art and not a commercial people pleaser.
Halaponga2 – :
bellissimo e bilanciato, questo è uno straordinario profumo unisex, fresco, campagnolo eppure elegantissimo. le note di inizio sono verdi e terrose di bergamotto, te verde, muschio di quercia e vetiver. l’assestamento procede verso una morbidezza che restituisce sentori lievemente affumicati di cuoio ingentiliti da gelsomino e salvia. sul fondo si arriva ad uno skin-scent muschiato gradevolissimo. veramente notevole.
zca077bedyWelty – :
To me this is green, grey and beige… Very dry and intellectual, also peaceful and restful. I love to wear this before bed, I sleep very well.
It’s not listed here but the musk is referred to as an ‘oak musk’ somewhere and it’s beautiful, with a definite oaky smell like a white wine cork.
Personally its just a bit dry for me and seems to vanish very quickly, otherwise one of my favorites.
папапаша – :
“Just Landed On The Moon” ****
It happens I wondered how it smells walking on the moon. And now I imagine it could be everything this scent conjures, being that a place where no palaces were ever built.
Metal still warm of your spacial capsule, just after you landed the moon, surrounds you, and the dust penetrates your nose.
Launched in 1989, this was so futuristic that I’d like to ask Neil Armstrong about how correct my feeling is.
bukhari – :
I really love this scent.
My impression is a bonfire in a blooming orchard at dusk. I get sharp smoke and some herbs, wood and blossoms behind it. Feels pretty much like an enjoyable trip to countryside, such a nostalgic reminder of childhood.
When I wear Palais Jamais I just can’t stop sniffing my wrists, it is so pleasant to me. But it is also very specific and definitely not easy to wear. I mostly use it at home for myself, because I’m afraid it can be offensive for some people. And yes, I disliked it at first, but it grew on me so quickly that I bought it in half an hour after testing. A wonderful and unique creation.
pgw330speagoessenda – :
Well, I found a very small 1 or 2 oz vintage hotel bottle of Etro palais jamais shampoo at a yard sale. i like the clean pretty fragrance so well, reminds me of some product that was available back in the day. To me it smells fresh ^ clean.
I was thinking there might be a lot of people here with tons of fragrances just sitting on their dresser or vanity. Maybe, I could be affectionately looked upon as your poor cousin of this Fragrantica fragrance family. I really really want some more of that jamais palais shampoo! Or jamais palais anything. I could trade someting for a bottle of it, like a vintage clothing or vintage something you’ve been looking for…please let me know!
The fragrance reviews here on this website are truly great, btw! very thoughtful & i learned a lot from them
utest4all – :
To me, this is a very unusual fragrance in its curious mossy green appearance. Not what one would expect to have been formulated. There is ample oakmoss within, and vetiver, but the way it is blended with the cedar, bergamot and petitgrain… At first it is dry and a bit sharp, a brewed herbal that almost suggests some kind of scented cleaning fluid. I did NOT like this at first. I bought it blind and thought I made a mistake.
I have come to discover that newly experienced accords take time to appreciate. They can be off putting at first, but in time you get to discover their true character. With Palais Jamais, that sharp opening softens into the dry down. The rich oakmoss is garnished with sage and jasmine, and cedar becomes less prominent than in the beginning.
Still, there’s only a subtle sweetness to this. And burnt plastic? Well, you might be able to force that imagery. There are qualities to unpleasant aromas that can appear in similar forms, but shifted enough as to become quite pleasant. Palais Jamais seems to do this.
But don’t get me wrong — this is NOT an easy fragrance to wear. I think of it more like a personal scent, one that you wear when you just want to enjoy the artistry of an unusual accord.
I bought this along side the older Etro Vetiver. I thought for sure that the Vetiver would be more appealing to me (which at first it was), but Palais Jamais, the ever palace it is, nudged its way to the same shelf. I don’t know if Etro’s latest version of it is the same as the older gold cap version. If it is, don’t hesitate to give it a try if the prominent notes appeal to you. This is a curiosity worth owning.
Longevity is OK, sillage is a little below average.
wrinursiree – :
the absinthe-coloured juice sits patiently in the myriad bottles waiting for the precisely correct time to be worn; it’s a coolish, overcast summers day, a hint of menace in the clouds. this smokey, mossy tea – with a stout vetiver heart – elixir has its moment….. pj always imparts a contemplative, comforting impression when the right day appears. very nice
BafeEssesty – :
A pure green sugar cube.
A Candied bergamot.
A bit “Plummy”.
A fairy forest, full of kind spirits.
Adorable.
Magic and without time like a tale.
skg552JeomiWogkig – :
Etro is a funny house for me. I do not always fully understand their creations, but I sense that they are all made of high-quality ingredients, featuring many natural components. PALAIS JAMAIS is a case in point. As I have enjoyed sniffing my way through a generous house-manufactured carded sample, I have become more and more smitten, which makes me wonder whether these creations do not simply require a bit more time to fully digest.
This perfume is an incredibly beautiful, entirely unisex, herbal-moss chypre–sort of. It’s actually a bit difficult to describe. The oakmoss (and yes, it’s evernia prunastri, according to the text printed on the card), is in full evidence, but it is balanced by enough bright elements that the overall effect is not gray but light green.
I feel that this composition is perfectly blended, and I wonder whether it is being reformulated to conform with the IFRA restrictions. This is an excellent case where if I knew that I could acquire the perfume in my sample vial as a full bottle, I’d jump at the chance. Unfortunately, it’s always a gamble these days. If I run into a physical bottle somewhere (unlikely to happen, I realize), I’ll read the label, and if what is listed is the same (evernia prunastri, not furfuracea), I’ll gladly add this perfume to my collection.
PALAIS JAMAIS is refined and subtle, but gorgeous.
alenuwka_2006 – :
Palais Jamais should be a mess. Citrus, floral, smoky, herbal, vetiver. Was that rubber? Was it supposed to be leather? Palais Jamais somehow keeps its parts distinct and well behaved. From top to base, PJ maintains an ungainly balance. The elements don’t come together—that would be the mess—they just follow their courses. The lighter elements recede, the heavier notes come forward, and PJ’s drydown is suggestive of a sharp, dry, smoky tea. PJ manages to suggest dry, wet and burnt simultaneously. Great trick, actually. Always captivates me.
There’s something objective in tone about PJ. It doesn’t come off as blended or harmonious. It doesn’t become a skin scent. It stays put and asks you to approach it, to consider or admire it as you might a piece of abstract art. A successful if oddly modern attitude for such a staid design house like Etro.
DroniDepe – :
Firstly, I do enjoy this scent very much smelling it directly from the bottle. The green smokiness is positively different and unique.
Nevertheless, I cannot wear it. Afterall it remains difficult to make it work well with my skin’s natural chemnistry.
The moss and tobacco together render my skin smelling like I had just left a dark and smoke-filled bar on a misty night.
vishnya1984 – :
Like an ashtray left in the rain or something like that for my nose. I’ve tested it in november. I feel leather plus tobacco and oakmoss with citruses. All this turns into plastic and metallic scent on my skin after a while. It may be called interesting but this scent is not for me.
app59545 – :
I tried this on the blotter the other day and did not bring myself to try on skin, as the smell was that of cigarettes, of ashtray. Never had such an experience before. Pardon me for that, maybe it will be different on skin? I will try next time.
Gusartoglb – :
Descubrí este perfume en invierno y lo probé en mi muñeca. El olor me cautivó al instante al igual que el nombre mágico. Durante mucho tiempo me acompañó y noté que paseando había reacciones a mi alrededor. No tardé mucho en comprar una botella de esta obra maestra. Yo siempre querré visitar el Palacio Jamás..
orinkchoill – :
It’s green at the top, but the leather and tobacco smooth that out, then the lovely vetiver keeps it interesting.
This is one of the most interesting scents I’ve worn. It smells like the morning after a great night — a little bit of smoke, a hint of suede, maybe a little aftershave on that suede…
SpookY – :
Somewhat smoked yet green-
aromatic jasmine tea with wood. The leather here is quite soft and….not leathery. If this scent were a poetic/musical form, it would be a fugue of a scent. Not necessarily an easy scent, but has the makings of a comfort scent for a deep thinker-
greens, citrus bright, subtle leather,
dry tabacco, and the depth of oakmoss.
Thankfully no charred smoked sausages here-no char, no sausages- and limited smokiness-thank goodness!
saffonov – :
Ha-ha ;o)) For me this is one of the best fragrances by Etro, green and citrus freshness is perfectly combined with woods, moss and leather. Strong and bright.
orineeunews – :
I am sorry to say that, but this fragrance is terrible! It smells like the burnt frying-pan with the remainings of chared smoked sausages..yak…