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muusernamef5 – :
My review is based on the new extrait version released in autumn 2017.
Legendary Fragrances’ version of extrait opens with sweet-tart and almost boozy peach supported by the soft whisper of smooth orris. Besides this expected peach-orris accord, curiously, there is also a note recalling stale vegetation mixed within during the opening 10 minutes, adding an unexpectedly eldritch twist to the usually optimisitc and colourful peach-orris combination.
This “leaves left for too long in stagnant water” note recedes into the distance after about 30 minutes, when it gets replaced by a spicy, slightly metallic and almost meaty clove as peach and orris’ new companion. With the clove combined to the gently powdery texture surrounding the iris and violet, a spicy yet sweet carnation blooms vividly in this bouquet during the next 2 hours.
As times passes, the fragrance loops back to its initial focus on the peach-orris, but becomes more dry and powdery in the texture than the previously smooth one. There are times from 4th to 6th hour when a nutty, flour-y woody note threatens to overcome the smooth sensation of orris, but evetually relents. The fragrance then remains this softly musky, peach skin-like scent until the end. The sillage is moderate to soft, while the longevity is usually around 10 hours.
I haven’t smelt any vintage original Jacques Fath Iris Gris, nor the reconstructed version of Osmothèque, therefore cannot provide any comparison. Compared to other fragrances constructed around a peach-orris accord such as L’Iris de Fath and DSH Scent of Hope, the orris/iris part in Legendary Fragrances’ extrait seems less plush and less velvety, instead it feels slightly more powdery and dry, maybe because of a stronger woody emphasis midway in its evolution on my skin. The mood of the fragrance is also more sombre, more cacophonous, and in a certain sense, more grey, probably thanks to the “rotten leaves” association I got in the opening, and a less luscious and less radiant peach in general. In contrast, the carnation note turns out much more noticeable here than in the other peach-orris fragrances that I tried.
I personally prefer a more optimistic and harmonious rendition of peach and orris, this extrait is therefore not a version that I seek after. But the spicy powdery twist of the carnation is quite intriguing. Considering that carnation is sometimes mentioned as playing a non-negligeable role in the original Jacques Fath Iris Gris and the Osmothèque reconstruction, it would be interesting to compare them on this front besides the peach-orris pair.
Grimdgoy – :
Hello: These comments are quite interesting. However:
Q80: The Iris Gris Extrait is what you will smell at the Osmotheque! Sorry, or unless, they mess it up, we wanted to be accurate and not re-invent IG. If that was the case, this would have be done so fast.
danieq: Which product are you talking about? Very curious, please explain!Looks like a very old post that I read before…..
Scentmad: If you have a small decant of the original IG (1947), I guess you compare the X.O. version to it, correct. Before to settle on this reformulation of the 1947 version (X.O.) we mail dozens of samples to peoples owning the vintage, and all agree, our re-constitution is quite impressive.
What I like to say here, WHAT IS PRESENTED AT THE OSMOTHEQUE (until January 23, 2018) is the reference for Iris Gris. Our version extrait is just that, no better, no worse.
sazikov – :
I haven’t had the chance to sniff the real “Iris Gris” by Jacques Fath so i tried “Scent of hope” from DSH. Now this fragrance (Iris Gris extrait version) smells quite rooty and clay like peaches, beside a dusti orris (not creamy). The peach isn’t the pulp but the skin, it’s there to softens the planty, clayish mix, the oakmoss, & the orris but over all it’s quite clay like peaches.
Comparing this to DSH’s “Scent Of Hope”, “Scent Of Hope” is brighter, happier, and fresher than Legendary Fragrance’s version while LF is good tho but dustier and clayer than DSH’ “Scent Of Hope”.
Now i can’t decide wither if this version is the identical as the original “Iris Gris” of JF or not but i personally prefer DSH’s version over this one.
Furthermore, Legendary Fragrances have another version of “Iris Gris” which is not in the fragrantica database, and it’s called “Iris Gris x.o.”, as “Thierry” wrote (he is the owner of LF): ” In order to achieve this wonder we patented an aging process”. Honestly, this version is quite harsh as it has a harsh oakmoss, vetiver mix with sandalwood, and aging cedar. It has violets quite huge time, with a very softly heliotrope.
I can’t deny that i liked X.O version allot with that harshness and more animalic like orris.
Eventually, both versions are quite interesting and quite good and i like the X.O version over his original version.
Edit (12th April 2018) The more i use it the more i crave it, specially the X.O version. However, the drydown of the X.O version is identical to the top note of the Extrait version. Now the MAJOR drawback of DSH’s version”Scent Of Hope” is the longevity as it doesn’t last longer than an hour while thie X.O and Extrait lasts more than 3 hours solid which makes it quite impressive.
Furthermore, there is one major thing that i have noticed… The orris doesn’t really last quite long! as the transition from orris into carrot seed makes you believe that the orris is there while it’s mostly vanished and what you are experiencing is the carrot seeds and the peach pulp. It is made quite well and very balanced.
samvel69 – :
My very first impression upon opening the vial was of the strong rooty Iris found in Iris Silver Mist. However, once applied to skin, that hint quickly took flight and was replaced with a very strong, plastic carrot.. There certainly is a healthy dose of Iris here, but I’m not convinced it is natural as the synthetic vibe was enough that my husband immediately noticed it when I sat down beside him. His comments? “WHAT is that SMELL? It came with you. It’s not good, smells like plastic!”
He’s right. He actually continued to complain throughout the evening, which he doesn’t do unless he feels very strongly and he rarely feels strongly about anything.
However, I chided him to wait for the dry down in case it improved over time. The initial strength did calm down and it became more of a skin scent. The carrot calmed and peach came out to visit. Sadly, what it reminded me of was a peachy play dough. This does have an underlying spice which also makes me think of ISM but it’s not nearly as well done and the play dough really competes to win notice over the sharper spicy notes.
Another one I was reminded of was L’Artisan Skin on Skin, which is not a scent I care for. Again, the reason is a plasticky Iris note.
Now, here is yet more to confuse the issue. I applied my wearing today using a q-tip and that thing smells absolutely beautiful! The peach takes on an almost alcoholic flavor and the Iris goes as cold as ice. There is something crisp and refreshing about it. I get more of the realistic roominess of Iris like what is found in ISM, but it’s a bit more on a crisp line, like a razor edge somehow. This makes me question whether the plastic feel is simply my own skins particular reaction.
I do need to say, that while those who’ve smelled the original IG often rhapsodize that it is the most beautiful perfume they’ve had the pleasure of smelling, I cannot say the same for,this reproduction. I do wonder if such rhapsodies are brought on primarily by the originals rarity. At any rate, this is NOT of that grand character to my nose.
Two hours have passed since application, the plastic has, thankfully, all gone and what is left is a soft, floral fruity rootiness. There seems to be zero sillage and I must touch my nose to my arm to catch the scent.
While I think it does have merit, the poor longevity makes me think it would not be a worthwhile investment to me personally. The parts of it I enjoyed are also found in Iris Silver Mist and so I’ll stick with that.
bovlad – :
I have a minuscule decant of the original Iris Gris as well as this reformulated example. They are nothing like one another. The JF version is breathtaking and completely unique. It’s probably one of the best perfumes I have ever had the fortune to smell first hand. I treasure the few drops I have and the temptation to wear it is sometimes overwhelming but once it’s gone it’s gone and that would make me sad.
The reformulation is fine, wearable but not like the original which is just incredible.