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Zemanoina – :
Launched in 2015, Iris d’Or was created in limited edition to be part of a special line within Amberfig called Preciosidades (treasures), made up of 3 fragrances: Cuir Fétiche, Iris d’Or and Oudh. At the time of its release, the first batch sold out in less than 24 hours.
The concept was to demystify the iris as an ingredient in perfumery, which became better known because of its earthy scent (reminiscent of makeup) and magnify its facets with other notes. For this, the perfumer decided to increase the fragrance with notes that confer a golden content and a certain luminosity, through resins and beeswax. It is worth remembering that the beeswax does not have the same smell of honey. It smells like a maple syrup with nuances of tobacco. However, it carries a unique characteristic: it has an equal result in all the fragrances in which it is used. For this reason, various perfumes with that note are very similar at some point in their evolutions. In Iris d’Or, its accord reminded me a lot of Chene, by Serge Lutens.
Iris d’Or was made with notes of violet leaves and cassis, opening for a body with iris, beeswax, carrot seeds and fenugreek, towards the base with notes of tonka bean, cedars from Texas and Virginia, benzoin, labdanum, vanilla, and Tolu balsam.
On the skin, the fragrance of Iris d’Or is intense as in other creations of the house. In fact, Amberfig is, in my opinion, the Brazilian version of Serge Lutens. But the output did not match the composition. On me, at least, the beginning started from the heart. The most intriguing nuance comes from the fenugreek, with a mixture of curry and everlasting flowers. Anyone who knows a perfume called Immortelle de Corse (Voyage en Méditerranée – L’Occitane) will understand what I am referring to. In fact, there is much similarity between both fragrances, by the way.
To complement, although the evolution is subtle, the resins amplify the sensuality and the warm aspect of the fragrance. The tonka bean did not stand out, unlike the benzoin and the labdanum with its oriental content.
To conclude, it is worth remembering that the liquid is quite oily and the perfume projects and lasts a lot. Again, I must say that I have never found anything similar in Brazilian perfumery before. Beautiful work!
rfl181intitytek – :
Iris d’Or explores the iris in a way that the fragrance is not used.
This flower has its abstract aroma, has many facets, the best known is kind of scent of make up, in powdery and here appears but in a milder form.
In the opening already enters a powerful cloud of fenugreek which is like to immortelle in my nose, with its creamy toasted floral aspect, and has something earthy together i believe to be the carrot.
Later appears iris with a semi powdery touch, nothing too strong, wrapped in an almost animalic wax, matching the previous chord, developing a scent like a beehive on top of a tree in my mind.
Drying going to base, I catch something more oriental woody, cedar mixed with a sweet resinous aroma, giving a kind of t comfort, but at the same time is sweet and bittersweet, as a kind of propolis, something like a herbal medicinal, very complex and well-developed scent, and unique in this line.
Rating: 8.5-9 / 10
reedybarm – :
I feel privileged to have an exclusive creation of the Brazilian niche House Amberfig in my collection. Iris D’or is a smart interpretation of the iris note, which, by the way, is a highly complex note in perfumery, in that a same chord reveal herbaceous nuances, atalcadas woody and also in its composition, and characteristics acute similarly found in Violet.
David Magalhães achieved the feat of embodying one iris in its entirety, in my view, because the chord Iris D’Or will root the tip of the last petal, perfect thing to feel, I approved enough. On the way out we feel a bitter and very green touch that bothers the nose and cause a safe splashed made me remember the Propolis and Honey aroma still in the comb with that waxy which refers to a swarm of frenzied bees in high production. The output is very long and almost does not seem to evolve.
Here in the heart we find the well-developed iris and with a strong touch of makeup, but nothing that haunt both because here at this stage there is a counterpoint; it is planted in moist soil in a rustic clay pot that is within a stable, composing the decor of the place. Here is the counterpoint that does not allow the iris note is stark, the presence of wet earth smell of wet clay and dry hay itself, giving a balance and unprecedented characterization of the herbaceous chord / high powdery bloom.
The farewell Iris D’Or is serious and with no pretense “Joy”, something rustic, country and wrinkled, very Cedro with burnt aspect of your wood here still kind of milky, closed resins nuances and concentrated in a manly sweet and sometimes fruity, like, I feel a smell of candy gum fruit, mixed with subtle touches of propolis. The perfume will finish with a balsamic background surreptitiously to resemble a medicinal aromatic touch, but something so subtle that it takes triple draw attention to that vibe there.
For the rest, in my amateur design, Amberfig took another inside for scoring materialize a context for the shrill notes of Iris, so as to be linear and all dominated by other notes of which did not make its natural characteristics were lost and merely allow it to become something uniquely ominous. Iris D’Or is necessary for those who appreciate the chords note!