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spongeaidar – :
Hermès Paris – Cuir d’Ange Eau de Toilette (Hermessence Collection)
Jean-Claude Ellena’s tribute to Hermès’ quintessential leather goods. The seductive leather note harmonizes beautifully with silken musk and violets. This was my introduction to leather based perfumes and it was an exquisite experience!
Azot1c – :
An Ultra Realistic and Suffocating leather fragrance…
Like Smelling hot leather Jacket.Powdery/Floral type leather which i don’t like.leather is rough,bitter and spicy too.
Leather dominant fragrance lovers will love it.
but its not mine
Scent: 4/10
Longevity: 7/10
Sillage: 6/10
——————————————————-
Overall: 5.5/10
forces45 – :
This one is excellent. Compared to Acqua di Parma leather this one smells more refined. Adp leather has certain butch, ruggedness which is not seen here. Hermes offers a more luxurious interpretation of leather, sort of ultra smooth serpentine leather. Its more like a very expensive new croc leather purse that has been filled up with flowers. One thing I like is the smooth blending of all the quality ingredients.
infileque – :
It was love at first scent with Cuir d’Ange and it only grows stronger. I think it has one of the most beautiful clean leather accord I have encountered. It smells like the most luxurious leather; it’s clean and buttery, far from being butch or rough, even in the slightest way. The leather accord is clearly dominating the fragrance from the first second until the end. It’s very slightly smoky and the heliotrope and iris gives it a nice distinct cool and buttery smell. It’s soft, airy, minimalist, masterfully blended, classy. Pure luxury.
Scent: 10/10
Longevity: 8/10
Projection: 5/10
DallFlaft – :
powdery leather. very present but never in your face (i.e cuir de russie). i love it a lot!
Саня 888 – :
Artfully composed. It’s excellent, but after owning this a year, I’ve ultimately decided it’s not for me. Very summery, with the violets and hints of hay and the delicate if strong suede smell (which evokes horse-back riding, skin, and expensive handbags). Powdery and light. Nostalgic. I find this one very feminine, but I think it just needs the right man or woman to pull it off.
Moncler Down Jackets – :
Cuir d’Ange is still in transition for me.
My first experiences with it, a year ago, were part of my introduction to the Hermessence line. I was not really ready for it. It came across as an intense, harsh leather. It clogged my throat, and all I could smell was leather, leather, leather.
A few days ago, I went back to it. I was shocked by the opening: powdery violets! What???? I was blown away by the nuances I was suddenly smelling. Minutes later, it seemed to have dried down to the simple, realistic leather I remembered.
Today, again something different: suede. Suede with some violets and other florals in the start. Now it is coming off slightly powdery, which is completely different from my first experiences.
To be continued.
yori66638 – :
My grandmother’s makeup powder and the inside of a leather purse. Soft and smooth and very pretty – I’m surprised because I usually don’t like these types of scent. There’s a slight mimosa/honey/almond from the hathorne mixed with the powdery melancholy of violet and heliotrope. Nostalic scent. I think this has to be sprayed heavily to get the full effect. My dab sample was dissapointing – just a makeup-powdery violet with a smidge of suede. I’m so glad that I went to Hermes and got a spray sample. The anise aspect of the heliotrope and the cumin-y undertone really comes out when sprayed on clothes. When sprayed on my skin, I get lovely wafts of violet, hawthorne, heliotrope and leather. It’s really not my kind of scent, but I can’t stop sniffing it. I think the nostalgia and the fact that it’s powdery yet delicately effusive (and never chalky) keeps me sniffing!
mirrobikov – :
Girl with a Pearl Earring BY Johan Vermeer
largonavt – :
I tried Cuir d’Ange back in the Fall of 2014 (not long after it was released) while out sniffing various fragrances. The Hermes store had a tester bottle available for sampling this scent–so I took home a couple samples–but no bottles were available for sale. Let me be blunt…I found Cuir d’Ange to be a major disappointment. Okay, it’s a decent fragrance (nothing bad) but it wasn’t what I was expecting nor do I feel that it lives up to the Hermessence price-tag. I love a number of Hermes fragrances (e.g., Ambre Narguile, Terre d’Hermes and Bel Ami Vetiver just to name a few) but Cuir d’Ange is not one of them.
Light-leather and light-floral is what I get out of this fragrance. I also sensed a fresh marine vibe. Go figure! The leather in CdA has an elegant feel to it, however it was way too light and airy for my taste. No doubt a number of folks will be asking, “Where’s the leather?” For these reasons, it comes across being much more feminine to my nose. These buttery soft-leather frags are just not in my scent wheelhouse.
If Cuir d’Ange were marketed as a women’s fragrance then I probably wouldn’t rate it. I would still sniff it, but I wouldn’t rate it. However, I found CdA to be way too soft and feminine for most men. I feel CdA should be marketed as a women’s fragrance. But don’t take my word for it…put your nose on Cuir d’Ange and decide for yourself.
LaferNeil – :
Girl with a Pearl Earring BY Johan Vermeer
Iqrok – :
As I was expecting another limpid, abstract floral leather like Kelly Calèche when I was testing Cuir d’Ange for the first time, my jaw almost fell to the floor when not only did it hit me with a realistic leather, but also a fairly noticeable cumin as an companion.
However, this doesn’t mean that Cuir d’Ange smells like a dirty, butcher leather. While the leather note here is mostly dominated by its barnyard-y, hay-like facet probably resulted from narcissus, it’s juxtaposed with a supple, lightweight, suede-like texture (suederal?). With the presence of the cumin, there’s also a clean white musk and vegetal, floral undertone, almost like a floral ivory soap. It’s as if Ellena pulled the trick of the juxtaposition of dirty-clean in Cartier Déclaration again in this leather composition, resulting a convincing impression of a finely-cured real leather.
The focus on this slightly spicy, hay-like leather starts to blur with time, as the clean powdery white musk and heliotropin gradually melds into the leather, until it finally becomes a feather-like, abstract, pristine floral powdery skin scent in the late dry down. I can definitely relate to the comparison of Cuir d’Ange as a leather variation on Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver. The transition happens in an incremental pace, but I would say that starting from the 6th hour, the leather behaves more like a salty undertone undertone.
The sillage of Cuir d’Ange is close to skin, as most Hermès fragrances are; the longevity is around 10 hours on my skin.
In my mind, I would picture Cuir d’Ange as a leather made from unicorn or pegasus skin. It has this ethereal, other-worldly aura, but firmly displays an animalic (not necessarily dirty) aspect. When I try to compare it with other elegant modern floral leather, Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur is handsomely animalic but lacks this strange diaphonous aspect; Penhaligon’s Iris Prima is too clean and too abstract as a leather in comparison; Louis Vuitton Dans La Peau lacks the animalic quality despite its realistic leather handbag impression, and its execution as a whole is rather conventional in style. Therefore, Cuir d’Ange strikes me as a rare exemple that manages to unify these two seemingly contradictory qualities. I would definitely recommend it as a graceful, lightweight floral leather, and a gateway animalic leather as well.
velbot113 – :
An impeccably-crafted diaphanous abstraction. Utterly beguiling, supremely elegant.
Cuir d’Ange opens with a dizzy and indiscernible floral aldehyde accord. Distinguishing itself immediately, hawthorn lends a sweet, fleshy waxiness to the opening. A flood of dry airy leather that smells simultaneously refined, purified, and indicative of birch wood follows. All the while, a clean musk carries through, hinting ever so subtly at tobacco and beeswax. The result is a conceptual suede-hawthorn accord reminiscent of the buttery suede lining of a pair of finest Hermès kid gloves.
Cuir d’Ange is relatively linear in its evolution; instead of developing new characteristics as it ages, it waxes and wanes to amplify the cool nuances of iris, heady narcissus and a contrasting clove-like bitterness before hiding them once more amongst its clean, wispy suede-hawthorn accord.
At times melancholic, at others romantic, Cuir d’Ange is soft, sheer, and effortlessly elegant.
Certainly unisex, if leaning slightly masculine. Suited to cool weather wear.
Longevity is moderate, sillage is moderate-cum-soft by the second hour.
8.5/10
emkari – :
Best Leather scent in my Collection !!!!
MUST HAVE !!
stranger87 – :
Pelle angelica.
Elegante e versatile.
All’apertura ho ricordi di nivea e baby-talc , bel eliotropio e un pizzico di tutti gli ingredienti elencati.
Ultraleggero con camoscio fresco e pulito e’perfetto nei mesi estivi.
Per fortuna delle mie tasche lo reputo un po piu sul femminile a causa della crema solare che accompagna tutto fino alla fine.
La durata sulla mia pelle e’ un piacevole, breve battito d’ali.
If you love this try also prada no7 violette.
igb098JeomiWogkig – :
the best of the Hermessance line…………totally delightful and alluring.
unetta – :
I have smelled the Hermessence line many times but nothing really pulled my heart strings (or rather my wallet strings) until Cuir d’ange. It took me awhile to get Cuir d’ange soft supple expression of leather with just the right depth of eccentricity and dryness. Once I did, I am hooked!
This reminds me in some ways of a tannery or a laboratory and it’s wonderful!
Honestly I am not a fan of usual hot favourites like Ambre Narguile and Vetiver Tonka from the Hermessenence line. To me, others behind Cuir d’ange from this line are Poivre Samacarde and Santal Massoia!
соуп – :
Hermes leather is like a more delicate,toned down version of Dior Cuir Cannage.
Nothing wrong with that at all,but for the comparable price differential I would go for the Dior version everytime.Yes I get the abstract soft new leather handbag vibe but cannot detect the florals as opposed to Dior where the orange blossom and jasmine add noticeable support to the main player.
Hermes is the house of leathergoods but this all seems a bit PG 13 in comparison.Its quality and pleasant enough but as a
niche leather scent it leaves me a bit underwhelmed.
Feels a bit too one dimensional.
Lehions – :
scent : 10/10
sillage : 8/10
longevity :8/10
80% night / 20% day fragrance
nice powdery, leather&smoky scent
reminds me of Midnight in Paris Van Cleef
rama – :
A light, subtle floral leather fragrance that is unusually cool and quite wearable in summer. The initial opening is tempered with mild spices and a leather accord that hints at high quality leather handbags. The floral notes bloom pretty soon as the fragrance starts to smell similar to some creams and body lotions. The typical airiness of Ellena’s composition is found here, and this fragrance is very Hermes. It is slightly radiant and wears very lightly on skin. The heart of the fragrance is mostly the floral leather accord. It is followed by a similar soft and subtle dry down that is reminiscent of the earlier phases. The composition is linear to a certain extent, and has soft sillage and moderate longevity on skin.
Personally I love the opening, but thereafter it is too fleeting and a little unexciting for my tastes. I prefer to go with Declaration or Eau d’Hermes when looking for a leather scent that is similarly bright, airy and radiant.
Overall it’s quite a good composition. Definitely recommended if you are looking for a light, airy, summery leather fragrance and do not want anything striking. Definitely not a butch leather. Also, definitely would not work for those looking for something a little potent and tenacious.
3/5 (neutral)
barusin2010 – :
This is simply stunning, so beautiful . It’s an angel leather indeed, it’s demure and almost teases you with a glimpse of the leather with each waft. Its classy and unisex with about two to three hours longevity.
igor241180 – :
The softness of leather,a promise hovering over the skin.
Hawthorn,violet,heliotrope.Mysterious and delicate.
Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena .Cuir d’ Ange : words taken from the book Jean Le Bleu(Blue Boy) in which the French author Jean Giono describes his father’s cobbler’s workshop”…in angel leather for some god with a thousand feet”.
hebyDothhiemy – :
Cuir D’Ange is a magnificent leather fragrance. Kudos again for Mr. Ellena, by transforming an “expensive leather handbag smell” into an incredible fragrance. I think that the name suits perfectly to it. Heavenly divine leather scent. A must for those leather fiends.
gcjbjnwgvrn – :
When I first sniffed this perfume at Hermes Boutique, I didn’t feel anything special until I walked out the boutique and starting to realize that the perfume sprayed on my arm smelled like as if I’m carrying Birkin or Kelly bag.. The leather was sophisticated and deeply dramatic. Love this perfume!
ohale – :
Delicate Leather…
I don’t think this is too much of a standout fragrance from the Hermessence line. It is in keeping with the character of the other releases in the series. Basically a light, delicate leather. There’s a sweetness to it that I also get, perhaps from the almond-like heliotrope. The overall feel of the fragrance is not harsh leather but soft suede. I feel that Jean-Claude Ellena wanted to create a leather that did not smell like the rest of the heavy, birch tar scented leathers of the “dirty” and “animalic” style.
So I get the soft leather, very clean. I also get florals in the shape of violet and iris. There probably is musk in here, but it is nowhere near dirty or “musky” enough to make an impression, other than giving a soapy clean finish to everything.
I am a fan of his work, but I think with this one I am starting to agree with people who call it an “eau de cologne with leather” which to me is why it is so light, even though it has a wonderfully sift, clean leather note running all the way through. I think that if you don’t want a strong, stinky animalic in-your-face leather experience, then this one is a perfect alternative take on those. Great stuff for people starting out in leather based fragrances too. As long as you expect a light and delicate fragrance here, you won’t be disappointed. Typical signature style work from Jean-Claude Ellena.
pqk665bedyWelty – :
Feels similar to Tom Ford’s White Suede, but keeps its sharply fresh (almost peppery) leather essence instead of turning into a soft musk; smells like a highly refined & polished brand new handbag as opposed to the slightly worn suede bag with powdery makeup.
sidarkovski – :
This is straightforwardly the finest leather under tanning in a leather workshop. It is still strikingly raw and completely untouched from any further processing (to saddlery, footwear, handbags etc) that it might just as well be called “angelic”.
I think that specific raw treatment part is the most invigorating and tantalising of the whole leather processing.
Here’s the leather solo, wild and alive. Nothing alike with the complex leather fragrances like f.i. Chanel Cuir de Russie- where there’s party going around the dry, dead leather- jazz, vodka, fur, perfect make-up, expensive sigars, vases full of flowers etc.
Cuir d’Ange is innocent yet full, raw and invigoratingly earthy. Aesthetically enjoyable piece from the Hermessence line, very distinctive in its refined purity.
getaleaky – :
Literally translated to mean “angel leather”, ‘Cuir d’Ange’ attempts to counterbalance the heft of leather by creating a scent which defies gravity with its light and airy qualities. As artists, perfumers use scents as a creative medium in order to express themselves. This is not entirely unlike authors or poets who create literary masterpieces using words, painters who design beautiful canvases utilizing a variety of colors, or composers who develop emotive music by way of instruments of sound. Ellena wanted to capture his love of literature as an art form by creating a fragrance which used scented notes as words to tell a story. The end result is a perfume which marries leather and skin, hereby creating a unified vision of intimacy.
‘Cuir d’Ange’ opens with a not too surprising heavy dose of leather. There is a slight synthetic tone, which conjures up images of heavily preserved leather pieces. It is suede-like in texture, with deep and rich smokey facets. As opposed to most fragrances which lead with the lighter and more effervescent top notes in front, ‘Cuir d’Ange’ seems to open oppositely. It’s as if the eponymous leather is lifting slowly from the skin by way of undulating wings. This dry down effect is mesmerizing to encounter. Slowly one is able to notice the accompanying light floral accord. Hawthorn blossom’s slight sweet and almond-like scent can be perceived ever so gently. Its scent is known to smell slightly rotten, and here it expertly amplifies the animalic and bitter facets of the leather note. Heliotrope is encountered next with its fluffy, goose down texture. Much like a luscious dessert, its scent oscillates between smelling of vanilla, almond and marzipan. Very faint nuances of narcissus and violet flowers can also be perceived. Here narcissus’s creamy floralcy is demonstrated, offering hints of wet hay and powdery facets. Violet flower adds further powdery qualities, aiding to create an overall airy quality. A variety of unspecified musks complete the fragrance.
Read my complete review at my personal fragrance blog
Fragranceemergency.blogspot.com
jekeag – :
This wasn’t an instant love. It was slow burning. To be honest, my initial reaction was of mild disappointment. I was smelling a luxurious ointment or moisturiser, not a high end perfume. Remaining curious, I’ve exhausted my sample and I’ve moved beyond my early reservations, beyond simple appreciation for this wonderfully restrained elixir and now firmly embrace my love for this scent of ethereal beauty. The soft suede, insinuatingl, warm musk and puffs of floral powder aren’t going to appeal to the huge sillage boasting attention seekers out there. This is a scent for you and anyone lucky enough to be within close quarters.
oleg1966800 – :
I feel like Cuir D’Ange is quoting other feminine and masculine leather perfumes, almost doing a demonstration of them? It smells like the lower register of Cuir de Russie dialled down by like 1000x, then sweetened, softened, and powdery violet cosmetic notes added. If you love leathers but find most too strong, this would be good for you. Unclear whether the leather is isoquinolines/birch tar/whatever, but it’s more the smell of the inside of a pink suede purse perhaps?
arshavin1995 – :
Chandler Burr can talk me into anything, especially if Ellena makes it. Burr refers to this perfume often as a masterpiece, which is why I blind bought it.
This makes me think of riding around in the back of a rich lady’s car. At first she seems a rather stuffy older lady, but after about 20 minutes she throws off her head scarf and you realize she’s rather chic and modern. Unfortunately the car ride left me a little travel sick and nauseated. Literally.
This is the airiest leather perfume I’ve ever smelt. It’s just not for me.
(I have a 15ml bottle if anyone wants to trade.)
rus-antonenko – :
definitely leather and some florals. but over rated, longevity is about as weak as a eau de cologne. not worth it.
YAMAHA – :
too expensive and not very intersting for the price!
kolbin – :
2014 marks Jean-Claude Ellena’s 10th year as in-house perfumer at Hermès as well as his departure from the house. His final perfume for Hermès is Cuir d’Ange, released as a part of the Hermessence line that he created soon after his arrival to Hermès. Hermès was one of the first French luxury house to create a luxe-plus, high-cost line. Dior launched their Collection Privé the same year. Chanel followed with Les Exclusifs in 2007. Cartier released Les Heures in 2009.
The luxury on steroids bandwagon was the result of a number of tendencies in the perfume market but had one common goal: profit. The trends driving the escalation included the perfumer-as-artiste movement, a desire to reclaim the distinction that niche brands had stolen and demands for market growth. Each house sold the premise differently. Chanel touted its heritage. Guerlain used misdirection, rereleasing poorly selling perfumes in new bottles at high mark-up in line after line, from l’Art et la Matière and les Parisiènnes to Les Elixirs Charnels and the City Lines. The ongoing question is, how are the perfumes in the exclusive lines any more valuable than their less expensive counterparts? Luxury houses have long espoused convoluted and esoteric equations of worth to sell us their wares. The bottom line was: they created and maintained markets for ever more costly perfumes.
Rather than commissioning hired guns to produce a perfume at a time, Hermès had a more ambitious plan and brought in Ellena to reinvent Hermès’s perfumery starting with the creation of the Jardins series and the Hermessence line. It is valid to be skeptical of the charm of a contemporary luxury goods producer. The avarice of multinational corporations filtered through the haughtiness of top-tier tastemakers calls for suspicion at a minumum. Still, Hermès’s renovation was well considered and transparent, something refreshing in Fashion.
Ellena was the ideal choice. He had a proven track record of success with designer houses (Van Cleef and Arpels, Bvlgari and Cartier) and played a large part in defining niche perfumery with his work for l’Artisan Parfumeur, The Different Company, Amouage and Frédéric Malle. He had an enviable lineage, apprenticing in Grasse, studying at the new perfume school at Givaudan in the 1970s, following in the lineage of Edmond Roudnitska and being a founding member of l’Osmothèque. He brought expertise, talent, a proven track record and, importantly for a house whose currency is status and standing, prestige. The position offered Ellena the possibility to play a critical part in shaping the state of the art of contemporary perfumery and pursuing a vision. It was a rare opportunity for a perfumer. It was a match made in heaven.
But was it also a deal with the devil?
Ellena’s body of work for Hermès defines the states of art and elegance. But it could be argued that Hermès’s explicit focus on finery, exclusivity and branding were a set of golden handcuffs for Ellena. Ellena’s minimalism and Hermès’s refinement might seem like a perfect match at a glance, but the incongruity is implicit. The company’s pristine objets are impeccable, but conceptually fussy. They stem from the decorative arts, but serve as dull finery and symbols of bourgeois prestige. Ellena’s minimalism is deliberate and rigorous, not a superficial style. His work is the result of years of contemplation and effort on the nature of perfumery. In a line of work where chasing the next brief defines long-term planning, Ellena’s body of work demonstrates a coherent vocabulary and philosophy.
So is Ellena’s work for Hermès restrained or constrained? The brand’s sheer, radiant perfumes with their controlled range of dynamics are thoughtful successors to perfumes like Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (1992) and Osmanthus (2001) for the Different Company. But this is also the perfumer who made highly orchestrated perfumes such as Van Cleef and Arpels First (1976), l’Artisan Parfumeur l’Eau du Navigateur (1982), Rumba (1988) for Balenciaga and Amouage Dia (2002). Was this side of his work set aside during his tenure at Hermès? Will Jean-Claude Ellena step out of his rue du Faubourg St. Honore closet and live large starting in 2015?
Only the future will tell, but Cuir d’Ange provides an enticing hint.
Cuir d’Ange takes a full step away from the tone of Ellena’s prior work for Hermès. It is as composed and edited as the others in the Hermessense line, but it is far more lyrical. Where the majority of the Hermessence line are defined by a dispassionate understatement, Cuir d’Ange has an expansiveness, a brio that is almost startling. Ellena is known for having fine-tuned the narrowly evolving, quietly radiant perfume while at Hermès. He made perfumes that were not static but were largely linear. Cuir d’Ange has sweeping topnotes and a range of dynamics that are akin to those in Calèche, a perfume made by Guy Robert for Hermès in 1961. Cuir d’Ange simultaneously fits the brand’s legacy and Ellena’s oeuvre like no other perfume he’s made for the marque. It has a foot in the past and reaches into the future without sentimentality or contrivance.
(The relation of Cuir d’Ange and Caleche is conjecture, but it isn’t without precedent. Ellena’s Dia for Amouage was a response to Robert’s Amouage Gold [1983], the perfume that launched the Amouage line.)
Cuir d’Ange is a floral-leather, a category that existed before Hermès produced its first perfume. The nod to historical genre tells me that Ellena intends to work with, if not within, tradition. The specific floral quality of the perfume is unexpected. It is bitter and dusty with an herbal, soapy quality reminiscent of Ivoire de Balmain. The scent is strong and specific yet detached. Cuir d’Ange smells more specifically like suede than most leather perfumes, but suggests that the scent comes from objects in a nearby room. Despite the olfactory realism the perfume is abstract and it defeats the expectation of how a leather perfume should play out. It’s neither smokey nor woody and it never warms or sweetens. It becomes hushed over time, but stays soapy and cool, hovering just off the skin without ever becoming a ‘skin scent’ as most leather perfumes do.
Ellena’s work is both literate and legible. He uses a systematic and ordered approach to make expressive if subtle perfumes. His perfumes reveal a coherent aesthetic that can be read. He has both a sense of history and an intimate knowledge of the most recent innovations in perfumery. He is poised to leave Hermès into a wide open future and I’m keen to see what he’ll choose to do next.
from scenthurdle.com
viktor1 – :
Another beauty from Jean Claude Ellena in the Hermessence line. Unquestionably modern, yet keeping a firm grip on the past. Not at all a beastly full throttle leather in the vain of Knize Ten, nor another version of Tuscan Leather and it’s abundance of clones. This is the “watercolour” aesthetic famously employed by Ellena in this line, and never was that concept more evident than here in Cuir d’Ange.
The soft, supple presence of calf leather is softened further with a delicate floral accord (heliotrope shining through) and an ethereal musk, all combining to create an aerial, almost powdery, soft leather scent that is undeniably beautiful. The leather is never in your face, nor do the florals ever become too saccharine, the sum of which is an entirely genderless, wearable and unobtrusive scent. Elegant, classy, modern and for a leather, quite versatile. Lasts well and projects discreetly. A triumph in a genre which was beginning to feel tapped out.
Lovely.
yfyasterryysq – :
Sometimes I’m sad for no good reason. Doctors call it “depression.” Meh. That’s just a name. A good joke makes me smile. Cuir d`Ange too. It’s that good. Like a hug. From that person. Yeah. That person. Try it.
Sergey_Pruchay – :
Pretty and minimalist. I liked this, but i don’t love it enough to rush out and purchase a bottle.
On my skin, Cuir D’Ange is a very soft suede that smells quite light and supple. Small nuances of powder or musk emerge during the dry-down. It’s not as floral as Kelly Caleche, as it seemed as though the delicate florals were mainly there to support the suede, which does make sense as the fragrance is unisex. However, the perfume didn’t project much and there was only a very soft sillage; longevity was for about 3-4 hours. I am learning that leather loves me in the colder months, but suede, not so much.
lampersov – :
This could be an Iris scent too. Its soft leather accord might recall the one in Penhaligon`s Iris Prima. Not sweet like the salty vanilla in IP but it bares the prickling of sugary notes. Not creamy but it hints at the corpulence of sheer powder and clean floral musk. In comparison Cuir d’Ange is the cooler, simpler (less complex and more reduced) composition, baring no other intended literal analogy besides to leather, but acting similarly winsome.
In the beginning leather is paired with the flavor of brand new impregnation, waxy and petroleum/plastic-like. During wear it seems to stay at times closer to the skin than its underlying structure. A structure reminiscent of Bois Farine (Jean Claude Ellena, 2003), the smell of flour and raw cooky dow. Though the hierarchy is clearly defined – here cooky dow works as the foundation, while leather is the theme and floral notes behave as subtle radiance in a sheer and vaguely pulsating (Iso E Super) composition.
As most or eventually all of the Hermessences, Cuir d’Ange is a skin scent with a current, simultaneously timeless feel, homely, dapper, deeply bourgeois, for mainly middle-aged to aged buyers. But it can do more. Through its equivalently fragmented construction it might appear open to wearers of any age, gender or other less explicit social affiliation.
nikolaev75 – :
PERFECT WORK,I HAVE NEVER TRIED LEATHER LIKE THAT.
sara911 – :
I did not expect to like Cuir d’Ange so much. To me, this is the most surprising scent from Ellena in a long time.
I love the creamy heliotrope note, which here is not foody/vanillic at all, and is perfectly balanced with the other notes. My only prior experience with heliotrope was from my parents garden, and I would never have imagined it could be blended in such a way that it could feel masculine.
Soft and clean leather, unsweetened, unsmokened, uncomplicated. The work of an artist (as if there were any doubts).
9/10
pesha – :
I guess that i will never know if i really love or get indiferent towards Jean Claude Ellena current work because when i think he has become repetitious here comes one of his creations like Cuir d’Anges that touchs me on my emotional in a way that my past critiques seems useless.Like all of his creations, there is a recurrent vibe that if you look on for some time you will be able to identify the similarty with one or more of his previous works. However, in this one there is still something new and i think it’s quite interesting the effect he has achieved here for me: the framing of a classic aroma into a modern, minimalist, but not dull shape. Cuir d’Ange reminds me of the classic Cuir de Russie aroma and i suspect that there is some birch or some material here with a birch like aroma causing this impression. It’s the first thing that i notice, the lustrous, waxy leather, of polished new boots, an aroma that for some reason reminds me so much of the tailoring workplace of my paternal grandfather. It’s so interesting to me that Ellena puts its idea inside of his mineral and vegetal aroma, used mainly on Voyage d’Hermes and on his The Different Company Bois d’Iris. It’s like this base is playing the light and brigh side of the Cuir de RUssie aroma that would be made mainly of classic citrus note. Cuir d’Ange also has that oily, gasoline-like aroma that you get in classic Fahrenheit formulations, but at the same time he has that chic floral leather aroma of Kelly Caleche, that here shows itself in its iris, leather and narcisse nuances without the fruity and rose nuances. Altough being minimalist, Cuir d’Ange seems to me complex, harmonic and thick and it’s one of the best Ellena works that i have smelled on this last years. This i would gave 5 stars of five, it’s flawless and b