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kuz-koc – :
Starts off powdery, then fades into a slight spice. But there’s something off about it.
1101994 – :
Habit Rouge
Guerlain
Nose
Jean Paul Guerlain
Year
1965
My graduation cologne! I first wore it back in the private school for young ladies my mother sent me to back in 1969 before I went off to University.
For me this was a gorgeous 1960’s Oriental chypre. The bottle looks like a deodorant for men and some of it is indeed quite masculine but it’s unisex by today’s standards. I don’t care for marketing fragrances as male or female. I wear whatever I like. I like the scent and that’s all that counts. To this day I enjoy wearing Habit Rouge. In French this means “Red Hood” or “Red Cape”. It makes me think of a red cap and gown graduation robe. It’s elegant, polished, and dignified. It’s also very classical in formula: citrus top notes, a heart consisting of a few florals, woods, patchouli and base notes of sandalwood oak moss and amber. There is an innovative touch of dark “Shalimar” vanilla and leather notes as well. It’s not 100 percent like Shalimar but it has a similar air which is alright with me.
The citrus notes are made up of bergamot orange, lemon and tangerine. That tangerine is very prominent and the lemon-lime zest. Very aromatic and both citrusy and green. There’s a basil note in it which is detectable and other greens are coming through early on: patchouli, oak moss. The jasmine and rose scent are not as floral or as feminine as in Coty’s Emeraude, but I do get that jasmine plus an additional note of red carnation. Beautiful carnation. The basil note spices it up plus there’s cinnamon and the florals are subdued by these spices. It’s definitely more spicy than floral.
The mood I get wearing this fragrance is: romantic, classic, stylish, like a kind of tuxedo. It’s “red” theme comes from the red note of carnation and rose but neither flower is too dominant. Habit Rouge develops into a leathery, mossy, woodsy and amber dry down. It smells like a good old fashioned bar of soap for men and like a barber shop with after shave and citrus shaving foam. There’s an absence of iris and orris so it never gets powdery. The musk via the leather is amazing. I would not call this sporty or casual and it asks you to wear her at a formal evening affair, black tie affair, dinner, graduation, wedding, or gala. It’s an expensive, expensive luxurious classic cologne. I enjoy wearing this out in the evenings in the winter time. The musk and spices are absolutely gorgeous and smell best in the cold weather months.
Whether you’re a guy or a girl this cologne is a superb Guerlain fragrance on it’s own so you have to be an experienced Guerlain fragrance collector. And if you really like Shalimar you’ll love Habit Rouge.
bandwaggoner – :
This is the only man’s cologne I wear.
In today’s fragrance world, however, the old vintage perfumes I wear and have worn for decades can be classified as unisex or as being “men’s colognes” because of the strong notes. It is a known fact that women’s fragrances of the Golden Age of Perfume (1900s 20s 30s 40s 50s 60s) were strong scents with projection and duration. There was a time when perfume was perfume. Guerlain’s Habit Rouge comes from that era.
This is a citrusy and aromatic floral woodsy scent of such refined elegance and sophistication as to belong in the wardrobe of Prime Ministers and Princes. The cologne is citrusy from the start. This was not unusual for a perfume to open with citrus. But here it’s quite sharp and strong with that bergamot, that orange and that lemon. But before one chokes on the citrus they settle down and turn glossy and golden like gold colored furniture polish. Then I smelled only the faintest floral notes of jasmine and rose.
There’s a patchouli here that really matches up with the rose so it’s on the dark black rose kind of side. It’s a patch-rose combination. It has a green aromatic herbal scent. There might also be rosemary. There’s a sandalwood and woodsy note arrangement that really gets to me. Smells wonderfully woodsy. The scent is also a bit like a good soap for a man. It’s leathery woodsy and citrusy. A classic barbershop scent. But it means business and it has a formal and sober life. It’s meant to be worn with a suit. If you’re a CEO or business man in suits try this on!
For women, this would wear like Shalimar. It’s a proud and loud scent of citrus, florals and patchouli/woods. This does remind em of Shalimar only far more aromatic. I wore this when I was a professor of music in the 70’s. It was always a man’s cologne so anyone who smelled it on me wondered why I would wear a cologne that smelled like their father’s cologne. I didn’t mind that they wondered and I could see that they were curious but they never asked me about my cologne.
The notes of vanilla and patchouli not to mention the benzoin/incense are so Shalimar so if you like Shalimar you’ll love this too.
Mysterious, dark, Oriental at the dry down and citrusy and bright at the beginning. A beautiful and long lasting scent with elaborate notes and gorgeous sillage and full bodied fragrance!
burlix – :
For Vintage Eau de Cologne Habit Rouge –
Of ALL the various bottlings and concentrations of Habit Rouge, I decided that Vintage Eau de Cologne would be the most proper way to approach reviewing Habit Rouge. When acquiring or discovering the olfactory pleasure of a timeless classic, it is best to be introduced as it was initially. After all, I am a purist. I have a Vintage spray EdC (110ml) – red plastic on the top and bottom with glass and information in the middle of the flacon as it is stands (for those you who know). “Copyright 1976” is on the bottom of the old Guerlain flacon bought from an amazing seller, as it has been kept pristine in its original box all these years.
I have, of course, smelled it over the years (in virtually all the various formulations and concentrations) but never bought a bottle of any until somewhat recently! It was about understanding time & place – I nearly bought a bottle after my return from Paris that celebrated my 1st wedding anniversary 2000, but didn’t. More recently (a few years ago), I did though. I have always been enamored by the sophistication and beauty of this true Guerlinade – but it was a matter of feeling it was just right on me. The association to maturity felt that, “I needed to be of the right age & perspective to truly feel it properly expressed the olfactory extension of self”. I ended up with an Original Vintage (black & white/zig-zag box) After Shave of all things first, which is an absolutely brilliant After Shave/more of an incredible ‘tonic & elixir’ on my skin). But, onto the Vintage Eau de Cologne. So, the Vintage After Shave is on the back of my left hand right now while the Vintage EdC is on my right inner wrist. Incredible!!
The opening of bright citrus (lemon, bergamot, orange and a hint of lime) is prominent from the EdC – and so much the ‘signature’ of Habit Rouge, as well, there is a nice burst of crisp citrus in the After Shave that is pure invigoration. The EdC then evolves beautifully into a nice, slightly-powdery floral heart of rose, jasmine & carnation-clove (but dusted with warm, sophisticated and gentlemanly classic vanilla), blended with leather, actually smoothing out after 30 minutes (no longer powdery – but warm and inviting). The patchouli is working here, giving a nice accord of freshness and liveliness, but also a herbaceous vibe that counters the balsamic oriental notes with the wood, olibanum and leather. The balance, as stated by reviewers whom I admire is simply, harmonious. Perfection. I don’t think any one note is dominant and the composition is clearly exceptional – a landmark in fragrance that smells so fresh. Definitely something I would prefer wearing with a nice button shirt and dress attire. This is class & sophistication poured into a bottle.
The After Shave actually has a bit more light, fresh leather than expected – along with the powdery vanilla, airy florals, some benzoin and the touch of patchouli is there as well. So, the EdC and After Shave, after going back and forth a dozen times now, compliment each other almost perfectly. The EdC is definitely stronger (this is when Eau de Cologne was rich – 85% volume is stated on box and bottle!), but the After Shave is a great skin scent with just a few dabs and actually accentuates the entire olfactory experience brilliantly. After doing research, I found that Vintage Eau de Cologne actually had more essential oils and aromachemicals in it than current formulation EdT. To smell them side-by-side, this is rather noticeable.
When reading more about this timeless classic, I saw a story of an individual that wore Vintage Habit Rouge – but only as a nice splashed on After Shave, of which he kept in a nice little refrigerator! It would stay for hours and he never wanted the power of the fragrance bottlings. That is a testament to how good that juice is. Personally, I like more power and refinement…so, I would want to layer in some EdC or EdT (and even blend EdP to complete a rich wearing). However, the After Shave is truly fantastic and offers a lot more than just a light scent. One of the absolute best After Shaves I have ever used on my skin…simply fantastic after a fresh, wet shave.
The EdC has been on my skin for well over an hour and is actually so smooth and putting out more power than before. It is breathing – I am certain. This has been in a bottle for over 30 years and is ready to come to life in full form! Sure, the initial burst of citrus is bright and sharp – but this is a wonderful skin scent. I don’t think I would apply more than a couple of shots to clothing when wearing this. It wears so well on one’s skin. Spray to neck, wrists and chest – and you are engulfed in its beauty with a bit of the After Shave splashed on or perhaps decanted and sprayed lightly and blended with a nice neutral balm to create a gorgeous base layer.
This is, simply wonderful…totally and incredibly brilliant. It is invigorating. A legend and classic scent and forever, timeless. Rating not appropriate – just pure admiration.
Habit Rouge is beyond scent, it is the essence of one’s, “dressage classique”.
pakim – :
HABIT ROUGE
GUERLAIN
GROUP ORIENTAL
NOTES CITRUSES ORANGE BERGAMOT BASIL PALISANDER ROSEWOOD LEMON LIME TANGERINE CARNATION SANDALWOOD PATCHOULI CINNAMON JASMINE CEDAR ROSE LABDANUM AMBER BENZOIN LEATHER OAK MOSS VANILLA
SILLAGE MODERATE RADIATES WITHIN ARM’S LENGTH
LONGEVITY VERY LONG LASTING 7 TO 12 HOURS
REMINDS ME OF: SHALIMAR GUERLAIN
The eau de cologne spray is a beautiful vintage classic from the house of Guerlain, inevitably likened to the opening of Shalimar with sharp and strong citrus notes, spices, florals, woods and leather. But it has more to offer than even Shalimar and it wears like a more modern updated Shalimar, for the 60’s that is. This fragrance was launched in 1965 and classified as an Oriental woodsy fragrance. I have the Eau De Cologne Vaporisateur which was actually my father’s and which I fell heir to. The scent has since been reformulated and like Shalimar comes in various incarnations: original parfum, reformulated parfum, original toilette and reformulated toilette. Each fragrance has their own merit but it’s this cologne that I’m most fond of.
The bottle is very retro and looks good inside the cabinet behind my bathroom mirror. I will admit that there are slight resemblances here and there to Shalimar but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Shalimar was sold as a woman’s Oriental perfume. This could have been the masculine equivalent of Shalimar. At the beginning of the performance of Habit Rouge, we get a distinct citrus scent of lemon, a strong lemon and essence of orange courtesy of the bergamot. It’s a gorgeous bergamot which has by now earned the title of the most commonly used note in fragrances. This bergamot is heavy, and often it feels like you’re swimming in orange and tangerine. In order to avoid a headache, I spray lightly and with a delicate touch. It smells luxurious and clean, so this is more of a clean citrus that could easily pass for an orange blossom. Something in it was like an olive as well. The citrusy smells linger for a while and begin to soften and the scent reveals it’s heart.
The heart is composed of spices. A dash of cinnamon and some basil. It’s spicy and gets there quick, but it is also beautifully paired with a few flowers, the same flowers we enjoyed in Shalimar, namely the jasmine. In place of the rose, we are treated to a big carnation. The carnation here is green and white, with a heady but not cloying scent. Before you call this a floral, the patchouli leaves appear. Patchouli without a doubt. This patchouli is herbal and then turns mossy with oak moss. The woodsy notes are equally strong and my nose detected the scent of rosewood and cedar. There is a strange outdoors-in-nature kind of vibe when the fragrance develops into the middle stage/heart. It smells like passing through the woods. This makes me think of the moniker Habit Rouge which I mistook for “Red Hood” and I immediately thought of Little Red Riding Hood who wears a red cape and hood and goes into the forest to get to Grandma’s house. This scent has no feminine touches to my nose except for perhaps the jasmine and carnation, not to mention the vanilla, but this could be worn by a mature woman who enjoys strong Orientals. This is no Little Red Riding Hood however and smells like it could be worn by the Wolf!
The scent dries down to even more woods, a light musk, amber and vanilla. The vanilla here is delectable, slightly powdery. In the end I get the feeling this was a bath product but with a luxurious and high end connection. It smells like a simple man’s cologne to wear to any occasion but has a definite formality. I can’t help but remember my father when I smell this cologne. This was his signature scent although he wore other very popular and well known vintages like Canoe by Dana, Revlon’s That Man and Old Spice. This scent has more in common with Shalimar than with any of the men’s colognes selling in the 60’s. This was possibly the most beloved of 60’s men’s colognes. It has everything that we think of in a man’s cologne: citrusy aftershave, spices, woods and even leather/musk.
Frankly, there is no fragrance out there that holds a a candle to this aromatic Oriental masterpiece. It exudes confidence and masculinity in a casual way. This was a fragrance for men when they were still men. I smell this on Frank Sinatra, Clint Eastwood, George Peppard, Paul Newman, Marlon Brando, Lee Marvin, Clint Walker and Richard Egan. A classic fatherly masculine cologne to wear with pride. Look for the rare discontinued cologne spray on ebay!