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alexi312 – :
Graal was released in 2015 and already has a reformulated version. That’s because the perfumer Sanderson Santana identified that his creations could be improved, not for technical reasons, but for pure personal and professional perfectionism.
According to official information, Graal features notes of Calabrian bergamot, rosemary, lavender, carnation leaves, nutmeg and bay rum essential oil on the top of the composition. Then, notes of jasmine, muguet, Palo Santo and wild honey, in the heart of the fragrance. All of this rests over a base of oud, leather, tobacco, vanilla, patchouli from Singapore, myrrh from Siam, sandalwood, amber and beeswax.
And just as I did in the analysis of Vanille Noir, I will draw a brief comparative between both versions. But before, it is worth explaining to anyone who does not know, what is this pepper Bay (bay rum). The bay rum is known for presenting a typical smell of brandy and cloves, quite strong.
With regard to the fragrances, both versions are delicious. They show greater similarity as they evolve, but still manage to maintain unique characteristics. To be honest, I do not know what has changed, since such information does not appear on Sapientiae’s website.
In terms of aroma, the old version seems to me a little more balsamic, with a fougère content, in which I also feel more aromatic nuances. In the current version, which is available for sale, the output is almost almond-shaped, with a fairly controlled Bay Rum, which is not easy to be done. Over time, Graal brings the floral-green side of the lily of the valley (muguet) and jasmine, which is not usually explored in this manner, as jasmine is always used in white, milky and indolic florals. Then we have the base of the fragrance, of which I perceive a lot of myrrh, amber and beeswax. I have already commented about this ingredient in other reviews, but it is always good to reinforce that it does not smell like honey. I also feel the presence of the tobacco used, as well as a slight touch of leather, but I was not surprised by the vanilla or the oud, which is usually very noticeable.
Graal is a perfume with a lot of presence and that conveys elegance to me. It has a proposal that reminded me of Santos, de Cartier (I said proposal, not smell). However, although it is made for both genres, I do not know how it will react on female skin, considering that I think it is a perfume more aimed at the male audience, unlike Vanille Noir, who is clearly unisex. Worth (a lot) experiencing.