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gfj015speagoessenda – :
I was expecting this to be one of the simplest perfumes from Paul collection, but i was wrong. This is another of his creations rich on its three dimensions, complex as a fragrance of the past and capable, as it was for me, to create illusion of notes that aren’t even on its composition. There is, definitely besides its complexity from the past, something retro on its aura, from a time where mainstream perfumes where luxury was also in the composition. I could see something like this being launched by brands like Jean Patou or Rochas.At first i pictured Ginger Zest as a creation on the middle road between an Eau de Rochas and a Madame Rochas, but then i saw that it would fit perfectly the cocktail line launched by Jean Patou during the 30’s, specially by capturing, like the Patou, the contradction of a the bitter/tanic side and the refreshing nuance of some citrus fruits/essences. Ginger Zest opens with this bitter refreshing citrusy, which is already followed by a green floral aroma. The perfume will developt itself on this axis, but always keeping a fresh and minty spicy aroma, of a ginger that for me ends acting like a consolidator essence among the several floral and herbal elements.The curry touch of the spices here is interesting, it produces a sensation of dry hay and also sometines give you an impression of sugar being burnt. Ginger zest base was a surprise for me, because the combination of notes produces a smell that i would attribute to a chypre base calibered for a creation rich and citruses and florals. I ended asking Paul if there really wasn’t any oakmoss, such my certainty that it was there. It seems that is presence is produced and suggested by the balance of other essences that goes on chypre bases, like patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood and musks, which combined produce a woody,earthy and dry sensation. This was a nice surprise, a luxury cocktail that i appreciated a lot while i tried to dechiper its secrets.
MiptBespentee – :
While this fragrance is absolutely not my style, it’s a beautiful, interesting take on citrus-and-spice that deserves a look.
Straight off the bat, Fragrantica doesn’t list most of the notes individually, which is a pet peeve of mine. Kiler’s website lists the specific notes as follows:
“Ginger and zesty citruses ( Kumquat, Kaffir Lime, Bergamot Mint, Orange, Lemon Eucalyptus, ) with some spices including a very light dose of curry spices. Mimosa Absolute, Ginger Lily, Gardenia, Freesia, several Jasmines, Orange Blossom, Clary Sage, Patchouli and Spikenard in the Middle. Sandalwood, Vetiver, Leather, and Musks in the base.”
Note that Fragrantica doesn’t list any of the florals. That’s a major problem, in my opinion, because they’re definitely noticeable for most of this fume’s lifespan. Ginger Zest de Citron is immediately soapy, almost unpleasantly so. After a few seconds, though, you can smell sandalwood and a tinge of leather in the base, surrounded by a cloud of orange blossom, gardenia, and lime. There are hints of lemon, jasmine, and even mint at the very beginning, giving the fragrance a cool, fresh feeling.
After 2 hours, most of the sharper citrus notes have faded and the florals have softened; the fruity note that tends to linger is the orange. The citruses in this fragrance tend to be tart and only slightly sweet, so there’s nothing particularly cloying about it. Also, the ginger and spices are much more prominent at this stage. By the end of Ginger Zest de Citron’s lifespan–around the 6 hour mark–I get a very soft blend of ginger, sandalwood, and musk, with vague floral notes; there’s no citrus at that stage.
My main impression of this fragrance? It’s how people smell straight out of the shower: fresh and crisp, vaguely soapy. It’s not a scent that suits me–I avoid just about anything that makes me think of soap–but it’s still a really a beautiful blend.
Sillage is soft to moderate and the longevity is around 7-8 hours for me–soft and short, compared to most Kiler perfumes. I think this smell is suited to “skin scent” territory, though, because of the clean, soapy quality.
WillowSexy – :
Before describing the fragrance, I need to explain to my Brazilian readers the meaning of the word zest. Many people don’t know that the word refers to grated rinds, usually from citrus fruits, and are much used in perfumery.
On the top of this creation, we can find Ginger and zesty citruses (Kumquat, orange and Kaffir Lime – cited in the review of Zaffran, which is a citrus with origin in Galician lemon), Bergamot Mint, Lemon Eucalyptus and also some spices including a very light dose of curry. In the heart, Mimosa Absolute, Ginger Lily (Hedychium family), Gardenia, Freesia, several Jasmines, Orange Blossom, Clary Sage, Patchouli and Spikenard. At the base, sandalwood, vetiver, musks and leather.
The output is divine! If you think you will find a citrus fragrance of Italian style, you’re wrong. It’s like a drink made with juices of citrus fruits and semi-sparkling type of drink. The eucalyptus and the Mint mix, with a lot of harmony, with the citrus nuances. But it’s the curry that gives the special touch, no doubt. Shortly thereafter, the mimosa Absolute is, like the name says, absolute. I love this smell! And even though there are various types of jasmine in the composition, they didn’t bother me. On the contrary, they were very soft on my skin. In this part of evolution, the mimosa and the orange flower stood out. After about 2 hours, the fragrance loses the citric acidity and becomes fruity, with a soft base of sandalwood and a note of leather, which is only noticed if subjected to heat.
But in order to avoid being accused of only compliment the creations of the House, I do a critique: the projection is very weak. This type of scent, so well made and easy to please, deserved a stronger projection, which is common in other creations of Paul Kiler. Putting this part aside, the lasting passes 8 hours, although close to the skin.
For fans of the aroma and the taste of citrus drinks, here’s the drink that your skin needs.