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AlekBK – :
I first put my mitts on a bottle of Cabochard EDT more than 2-1/2 years ago and immediately loved, loved, loved it…so much that I added the EDP and vintage bottles of the EDT and Parfum to my infamous Scent Armory. Anyway, I would just like to duplicate my review of Cabochard EDT (below) but add that if Carbochard Parfum were a woman, I’d marry this strong, sexy seductress. And I would gladly permit her to spend my money, walk all over me in her sexy six-inch black stiletto heels, and grope me longer and harder than Al Franken and Roy Moore at USO Show at a Mall filled with teenage girls and radio anchors. She is that fine of a fragrance.
*****
I received my bottle of Gres Cabochard last week and quickly opened it and applied it to each wrist. I find this fragrance to be a really nice throwback mossy scent that is ballsy, timeless (not dated) and simply a terrific olfactory experience. Oakmoss, leather, tobacco, woods, spices and some floral notes and other things supporting this composition and giving it structure. What’s not to love?
Gres Cabochard performs well on my skin; it lasts a solid 8-hours and projects above-average. While this fragrance may not be a universal people-pleaser, per se, it is smooth, bold, sophisticated and a bit ballsy. When I’m wearing Cabochard it’s like wearing my soulmate…someone who will have my back when I need ’em, and will give me a good spanking when I need that too. Besides…this fragrance pleases me, which is far more important than it pleasing anyone else.
Testosterone-laden dudes should not fear this one – it’s awesome! Conversely, girls and pathetically weak-woman should scent themselves with a dryer sheet and don’t dare reach for this gem. Godking is happy!
Antohaha29 – :
Not for the lovers of sugar laced scents…this is an explosive, smouldering peppery fragrance that almost assaults the senses. Wear it if you dare, it’s leathery, smokey and as some of the other reviewers have pointed out – there’s a distinct bitterness.
I think you can moderate this if you have to, by layering with a floral body oil. Longevity is ridiculous – a good 14 hours.
fkt967intitytek – :
Just straight up mature, sexy, smouldering, bold fragrance. Smokey, musky,mossy,floral chypre. I love it! If there ever was a fragrance that could capture the novel 50 Shades of Grey, this is it!. All black leather, black lace, stiletto heels and red lipstick. This is definitely the defiant bad girl’s got to have fragrance. This fragrance reminds me of a wicked version of Pierre Balmain – Jolie Madame. The more evil, elegant sister.
rirmHeexeve – :
This is a review for Cabochard Parfum, vintage.
This is a rather unisex scent. At first very strong, dry and bitter – an almost brooding scent. As it begins to dry, there is a whiff of cigarette smoke and musk, but not in an unpleasant way at all! After it settles, the almost overpowering opening notes have disappeared, leaving behind just the wood and leather, which is subtle and very, very elegant.
Cabochard reminds me of Philip Marlowe, the private investigator created by Raymond Chandler. I can picture the dames he meets – or even himself – caught in a mist of Cabochard. It is a close-to-the-skin sexy, a mature scent of a time when seduction was more than lip-locking some stranger in a bar and stumbling into an anonymous one night stand. There was a mystery to it, an art, and Cabochard retains this mystery, and it works for both the gentlemen and the dames.
I think this is a perfume that can be worn at many occasions, including at the office, because it has a quiet dry down. Quiet, not invisible. It is not the perfume that will make people turn their heads when you arrive, but it is a scent that might confound people who get close enough to you. For me, Cabochard is the scent of someone with a secret.
I cannot speak for the newest version, but the vintage miniature I own has a decent longevity and sillage. Nothing spectacular, just good enough. I like Cabochard very much, for me it is a grown-up scent and one of the epitomes of elegance.
13JOHN – :
I have a few vintage bottles of the parfum, they have all aged a bit differently. I definitely remember this scent from my childhood. I don’t think it is anything like bandit. It’s airy while still being smoky and dry whereas Bandit is dark, heavy and wet. On me Cabochard takes on a papery quality, like old paper that has been stored for a while in a leather box. I don’t get any florals at all and even this perfume version doesn;t last long on my skin. I find it quite an ethereal scent. Like a thin plume of smoke rather than a smoldering fire.
ILLGuard – :
Ce sublime parfum fait partie de mon top ten à vie. Un tournant dans mon histoire parfumée. C’est par lui que j’ai découvert la merveille sous familles des chyprés cuirés et que j’ai délaissé les parfums de jeunes filles pour des parfums de femme. Un parfum à la fois androgyne mais tellement sexy. Abstrait, chic et toujours aussi moderne de nos jours.
Romul13 – :
Cabochard is one of my most loved vintage perfumes. I have always been drawn to bitter leather chypres. This preference goes back to my youth, when I have a distinct memory of sampling Aramis and thinking it smelled amazing. I was certainly not daring enough to lope around my high school wearing Aramis, but when I began to investigate vintage perfumes, Aramis led me directly to Cabochard. Aramis was designed by Bernard Chant in 1966, five years after he created Cabochard (1959) and three years before he designed Azuree (1969).
Cabochard was the first perfume launched by the house of Madame Gres, or Germaine Émilie Krebs (1903–1993), who was trained as a sculptor and became an uncompromising and fiercely independent designer.
Cabochard was immediately very popular, so I can’t really fault Chant for recycling his great composition into Aramis and then into Azuree. Cabochard’s leather effect relies on a big hit of isobutyl quinoline, a bitter, green, leathery note that can be too strong for many noses, but IBQ might be my favorite aromachemical of all. Cabochard’s strong IBQ note connects it to Cellier’s Bandit (1944). The newer Piguet Bandit is greener (much more galbanum), much more floral and sweeter in the drydown than either vintage or new Cabochard, but vintage Bandit perfume and vintage Cabochard are quite close in feeling. Cabochard has a tangy herbal dimension, with sage and plenty of patchouli, and Azuree shares this quality.
In the end, Bandit, Cabochard, Azuree are similar. If you like one, you will probably like them all. If you are like me, you will want to have all three, and you’ll add Miss Balmain too (equally smoky and leathery, but less green and more animalic, with more castoreum), Needless to say, lovers of sweet, fruity, gourmand scents will want to stay far away from these bitter, dark green, leathery fumes.