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ste70 – :
I wonder if anyone will ever read this review.
Bouquet D’Amour Mysterieuse is not a fragrance to have ever received attention here on Fragrantica, so it may continue under the radar. I’m not sure it should have more play, it’s not for everyone. It is, however, definitely for me. No surprise there. Mariella Burani is one of my kryptonite fragrance houses. I am vulnerable to any and ALL creations from MB. I know this to be true, but am too weak to do anything about it. I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I must simply pay and spray 🙂
As my younger, hipper friends would say, Mariella Burani fragrances make me ‘feel some kinda way’ 🙂 So true. This one, Bouquet D’Amour Mysterieuse is a creamy, rounded, amber and incense infused floral. The incense is not as smokey as it could be, I think I have the vanilla to thank for that. The amber is perfectly presented. Surprisingly this D’Amour Mysterieuse is both dated and understated. That’s not a combination I typically find. Part of what gives fragrances a more dated feel is the loudness. This one is on mute. The big floral bombast has been edited out. Again, the vanilla may be responsible, maybe the sandalwood lent a hand.
Noteworthy Notes
–incense, amber, vanilla, lily, heliotrope, sandalwood
–a subtle sweetness
Notably Absent
–rose
–longevity
*sigh*
Just pay and spray, pay and spray, pay and spray….I know my weakness 🙂
Lexer55 – :
Fragrance Review For Bouquet D’Amour Mysterieuse
Mariella Burani
Top Notes
Bergamot Violet Leaf Lily Cassis
Middle Notes
Jasmine Hawthorn Heliotrope Rose Peach Magnolia
Base Notes
Musk Sandalwood Amber Incense Vanilla
Pleasantly surprised by this fragrance, which, sadly, has suffered the curse of being discontinued. There are a few websites that appear to sell this perfume like Amazon.com & eBay. I purchased mine from a warehouse in Brooklyn that sells chiefly discontinued classics, cheapie drugstore & old vintages. This is a sweet but spicy Oriental floral which sort of reminds me of a more Oriental version of Paris by Yves Saint Laurent. First of all I’d like to say that purple, especially deep royal purple, is my favorite color and when I saw the purple packaging/bottle, I was seduced. I hoped it would smell of purple flowers like lavender, iris, heliotrope (my favorite) or violets.
Well it does smell of violet but not a bouquet of violets nor a big powdery violet like Paris YSL. It’s a soft violet, almost like a shampoo for your hair with violet. In addition, it’s got heliotrope another lovely purple flower. This is a rather alcoholic opening with violet & violet leaves, which smell very different from the powdery violet’s blossom. This opens with bergamot orange & cassia or cassis, which remind me of purple grapes or purple grape juice. The purple color theme is indeed there from the start: purple violet, purple grapes, purple grape juice. Thank God it didn’t turn into purple Kool Aid. However it does have a fruity opening which is very nice, sweet and pretty.
The opening’s just a little harsh & old fashioned but it didn’t take too long before it softened and later deepened into a gorgeous floral Oriental. So much to love about this flowery perfume. It’s rich & fragrant, but nocturnal, like flowers smelled at a distance in a moonlight garden. I think the name – Bouquet of Mysterious Love, is evocative of a secret admirer’s bouquet given to a beautiful woman, the object of his affection, in secret. It’s sort of like receiving anonymous love letters and flowers from a romantic kind of stalker as in The Phantom of the Opera. The floral notes are waxy, like fake flowers rather than real ones, the kind my mother likes to keep at home after all these years even though she/I no longer live in the inner city. This is a gorgeous floral artifice, of deep violet & heliotrope; not too sweet, even with a peach, but still feminine & pleasant.
Other floral notes include lily, jasmine and magnolia. These are typical white floral scents but I like them. A jasmine stands out more than anything else. I can’t detect magnolia but it is there along with the faint lily, giving it a kind of white soapy middle/heart. It does smell of pretty good luxury soap for a while, before the flowery scents dissipate and you get a darker more nocturnal Oriental vibe. Finally it reveals herself as a Queen of the Night, robed in velvet musk, a pillar of smoky incense behind her. She is a mysterious beauty seen under moonlight, a vision, a sylph, that vanishes into thin air in a puff of smoke. Almost witchy had it not been for the sweet florals & minimal Oriental notes.
The musk is detectable & it provides this scent with warm tones. A heady sandalwood & amber are also clearly there, the staple of Oriental perfumery. I love the sandalwood & amber here, and it’s bigger than the musk; which is not as musky as it could have been. At this stage, considering the floral notes of heliotrope, jasmine, and the base notes of sandalwood and incense, the fragrance begins to smell a bit like Psssion by Elizabeth Taylor. It’s not 100 percent like Passion nor a dupe by any means, but some of the notes are there & they sort of smell like they borrowed from it. I smell the aldehyde, the violet, the heliotrope, the musk, the sandalwood and the incense. The incense here is a slow and steady soft stream of incense, a veil, and it’s both strong & soft, like a woman’s gleaming grin of malice or inside knowledge. A beautiful classic Oriental but not heavy nor complex. In fact it makes for a lovely introduction to Oriental floral perfumes.
Where to wear this? One can wear this as a formal wear fragrance to match your black evening gowns, black dresses, mini dresses, cocktail dresses, for dinner dates & romantic dates, the theater, Broadway, the symphony, ballet or opera, any cultural event; perhaps even a wedding reception. This is a luxurious smelling scent and can’t be worn with T shirt and shorts. It has a formality but it’s sweetly fruited (cassis and peach) sweetly soapy floral (lily jasmine and magnolia) so it does smell of a casual relaxed woman who doesn’t take herself too seriously. At the same time it’s got a maturity and intellectual nature. This perfume is so descriptive of me and the way I like to wear my perfumes at night. I am so happy I found it. Check her out if you can get your hands on her. The page lists Amazon.com as a source to buy it!
COTLAS – :
It’s a gorgeous bottle, and a gorgeous sweet spicy floral. I love it!
bugimot – :
This is really hard to find now, but I lucked out on my bottle and I really enjoy it. It is intensely sweet, more so than I normally like, but something about it is very appealing, probably because the floral notes are all things I like and the incense in the base keeps things interesting. (Angel fans might find it worth seeking out, but it’s not nearly as strong.) The cassis is quite pronounced on me and it could be considered either a fruity floral or a floral Oriental depending on which notes are most prominent on your own skin. I hope to try the others in this series at some point, but they are very scarce.