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Vitaliy435 – :
I’m a newcomer to HOM, and the house often has an apothecary aspect to many of its perfumes. The notes never seem to indicate the full “herbal essences” that have to be part of the compositions. Aside from the hype, they do smell of the occult or at least a bit medicinal. (I recently “armored” myself with one of the scents, The Longing). I ordered this on a special with other “gourmand” scents–thank goodness they’re not. Coco Blanc comes the closest, but this! This is not gourmand, not to me.
It is chocolate, but not a candy bar, not something edible.
It is a hyper-distilled chocolate, the essence of chocolate. The way that Serge Lutens took tuberose and mentholated it by focusing on a single molecule reminds me of the chocolate here. It’s treated as organic matter, something like wood, so that it really is not a “tasty” treat–but–bitter.
I suspect this also has heaping doses of patchouli which can really amp up chocolate notes, and it’s reminiscent a bit of SL Borneo 1834 which if you sniff long enough smells of chocolate patchouli. It also reminds me (again) of some of Tom Fords’ noirs and darker wood scents (pour femme). But this house always has (variously) a bitter accord or herbal quality that is striking and different from mainstream houses and sets it apart.
I ordered a larger bottle of Alpha (which I adore–and I’m a woman and all the reviews talk about how it’s the ulta-man scent…ha!), but this bottle of BSS is a travel-sized 15 ml that I know I’m going to have to go big FB. The woods and what little “oud” may be in it accentuate the bitter chocolate aspect; eventually the dry down is both warm and amber while still retaining bitter-chocolate wood.
I was pleasantly surprised too at the longevity and silage. Many natural perfumes just don’t make it to the five-hour mark. This one does, and keeps amplifying and changing subtly. Whereas the lovely Coco Blanc is fantastic for a few utterly sublime minutes with its salted butter, it only lasts two-three hours as a skin scent (I want to eat my arm the entire time, but it projects so low).
Bittersweet Symphony does project with a few good squirts and then just keeps coming back off the skin. I highly recommend. I’m not sure if I think it’s ground-breaking, but I think it’s different enough to warrant trying. The price on these is prohibitive for many, and it’s best to get on sale and sample. The samples are more generously sized than most. I’m slowing falling for this house which has an aesthetic that I admire, and so far they keep getting better. I’m growing addicted (I wonder what else she puts in there…hmmm).
Edit: 15 ml was not enough; FB on its way!
Edit again: FB arrived, wore it–got a ton of compliments!
svggodoffire – :
HOUSE OF MATRIARCH
Bittersweet Symphony (Liquid Music Series)
2015, Christi Meshell
Notes (per HoM website): henna, dong quai, spikenard, bittersweet Dutch process cocoa accord, alluring spices, bourbonesque charred woods, hints of warm amber and a touch of OUD *sighs*
I have been wearing this non-stop for the last three days!!! Love LOVE LOOOOOVE This! (5-7 June 2016)
Without any of the usual suspects (citrus, springy flowers, ozonic or aquatic notes etc) Christi Meshell has wrought a simply magnificent perfume, that becomes neither cloying nor too heavy in these early June days with temperatures ranging from 55 to 80 Fahrenheit; yet warms you up on chill evenings and comforts one softly on rainy days (my first full wearing was on a damp rainy afternoon). Though originally orchestrated for a bespoke customer, this is so lovely HoM has decided to share it with the world…and I am sooooo glad!
This is a dark (almost somber initially) fragrance that has a bevy of exotic herbs and spicy dry floral notes woven into a sturdy base of rich woods and resins with a contrasting (and utterly delightful) dulcet cocoa accord twisting throughout it. I heard The eponymous Verve song on the radio on Thursday and said “DAMN SEASONAL GUIDELINES” as Beauty knows no season sex or age.
Less oppressive than your typical woody oriental, this “gourmand” fragrance takes a few hours to unfold before reaching a drydown that lasts all day (or overnight). It’s projection is just right: people notice it yet it is nowhere near overpowering…despite the heavy hitter list of notes. What it leaves behind on the skin are traces of oud, amber and 100% natural cruelty-free musk-in just the right quantities that none overpower the others. They work together creating an opulent yet dignified oriental foundation that sustains and incorporates the herbal/floral top notes and maximizes the spiced yummy floral heart.
Sillage: moderate, then slightly softer
Longevity: very good (long lasting)
Overall: 4/5
Though NOT the biggest gourmand guy, I am an oriental and woody fanatic! This is woody and oriental; but so much more than that. It isn’t exactly “gourmand” either-though many ingredients are edible and potable-and I like that about Bittersweet Symphony (and that the scent is the perfumer’s hypothetical “outcome” of The Verve’s music video of the same name). Thinking outside the box is something this House does well, and I can’t wait to see what is next…
alish_03 – :
It’s a rich dark cocoa chocolate with strong dark woods, and soft spices.. quite aromatic and dark, reminds me of Praline chocolates in the opening, toning more down into a dark cocoa and woods / oud in the mid and base.
An evening scent, dark and mysterious… slightly bitter, never too sweet, and perfectly balanced!
ehm090bedyWelty – :
A sweet yet bitter chocolatey masterpiece, bottle and all. Love it.
TROND – :
Very deep and dark – it has a noticeable resemblance to desert morocain – not as dry and has more depth. A very pleasing smell. night time scent.
edit – I think the note lineup above is very misleading. this is not a fresh scent, nor does it come across as “green” – It’s very full, deep and dark.