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lordalmur – :
Ame Sombre is an absolutely amazing fragrance centered around the use of a rich, heady frankincense, a voluptuous, ripe and juicy (but simultaneously hidden and mysterious) rose, a thick, chewy hyrax, a sweeter, less peppery cumin than I’m used to, benzoin-honeyed, raw pipe-tobacco, earthy, creamy saffron tinged patchouli, and a majestically ambered, leathery labdanum.
The composition is heady, thick, chewy, musky as hell, smoky, and yet, juicy, rich, slightly sweet, almost edible at points and reveals the amazing care Sultan Pasha takes when tending to the fragrances of his that have a strong dichotomy at their core – for Ame Sombre is one of those fragrances that doesn’t allow muddied or drowned qualities to overtake the nuanced play at work between the total form of the composition – It’s absolutely a dense affair, don’t get me wrong, but it’s the difference between the solid and calcified remains of lava, and the molten flames themselves – neither completely consuming the other, and with a clear referential link guiding one from the lava to the solid form it later becomes.
A lot of the notes here almost turn this dark, spicy, balsamic affair towards something edible at the edges – for it has a lot of qualities which sing to the financially exotic affairs of the rich and the famous. What’s more, the ambergris is absolutely present here, and undulates betwixt adding a salty touch to the spiced, and smoky tones carrying a majority of the fragrance, and other times still adding to the warm, sweet and ambered qualities that seem to bellow underneath the waves of dense, dark smoke, musk, spices and woods that run overtop each other, as if waves of syrupy resin cascading atop each other, one after another.
There is in fact a quiet jasmine note that begins to appear as the fragrance itself dries down, which joins with the patchouli to accentuate the leathery qualities which seem to be coming from the labdanum, as well as the tobacco which emerges through the thicker animallic qualities and more prominently atop a bed of resins. While the musk seems to persist here, it’s more at the background of the composition than directly at the forefront. Absolutely one of the very best “dark scents” of all time, and one which, to me, is the true elixir that houses like Amouage boast as being contained within their line, but whose works fall short when stood next to Ame Sombre.
Holy shit.
10/10
YT: Jess AndWesH
Андрей 13 – :
This was my first attar of Sultan Pasha, (with the amazing Ensar Rose), love at first sniff, I couldn’t avoid buying it !
On me Ame Sombre oud infusion is a refined smoky scent with rose and tabac, I can see the patchouli at the beginning and delicious saffran and honey, hours later I’m wrapped with a resinous woody incens. It last hours and hours and I can even smell it the next day in a very subtle way.
I like it in cold winter and whenever I need to feel calm.