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skydead – :
NOT AN AMBER. The birch is predominant and makes this a primarily leather scent. Unfortunately, we’re not talking lipstick and leather suede, but rather sweaty saddles and male armpit. I sprayed on my male guinea partner, and it was “somewhat” better. I do not recommend this for amber lovers. Alternatively, if you are a leather lover, this is the most intense leather I have smelled. Knize10 is nothing leather like this, but where the former is smooth elegance, this reminds me of a harsh cured leather, a pommel on a saddle with a dead rabbit hanging off it. Also, if you like the smoky tar aspect to Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories or Lonesome rider, except that those are smoother, this may work for you. This is the rider melded with horse, sweat, smoke, leather and some wild dead game. As a woman, though I like masculine scents, this is too too. And it does not work on my guinea male partner either. Happy sniffing.
Edit: Happy accident – This just got so bad, and I discovered I accidentally ordered TWO LARGE samples. Well. In a pique, I doused myself in it, waited about two minutes, and then doused myself in a “Sephora Sample of Something.” Then…a few minutes later, after a sudden turn of lovely wafting scents near my nose, realized it was “Something Wild” by Derek Lam perfume (a vanilla cedar). Heaven. I kid you not. All of a sudden I was/am wearing a luxe leather, soft suede amber, strong, lasting, amazing. I kept turning my head “Whoa, that’s me.” It is fantastic. Did it again, same thing. Did it again–yes this works! I tried the “Something Wild” on its own, and it’s not bad–not a great vanilla/cedar–but not bad, but it definitely a “Vanilla.” I have not tried this with my Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, but I suspect it would perform similarly. The vanilla “ambers up” the perfume, without making it turn “foodie” or “sugary-sweet” or “custardy”–it morphs into a real amber-leather (the best, actually, if you like your leathers ambered–leaving behind the vanilla!). This isn’t my preferred way of wearing perfume, but if you buy this, and/or you have a large quantity of it and just want to change it up, layer it! It brings out the best in both perfumes. I layered directly on, over-sprayed as it were. Clothes smelled divine the next day, and NOT like vanilla.
FibheecicsBah – :
very close to antonio gardoni’s famous top note, very sharp and harsh
v1402926 – :
Just when you think you have tested all sorts of amber perfumes, a small miracle like SMNA comes along.
The sweetness of amber and benzoin is held in place by a strict yet light-hearted combination of birch, bitter orange, neroli and sandalwood, supported in the background by bergamot and amalfi lemon. The lavender to me seems like a brilliant final touch.
This is a delightful amber concoction, lifting my spirits from spray one!
Downside: Longevity and sillage are rather minimal
414 – :
Another nightmare from this House. Another cologne inspired by an ancient remedy for gout, cholera, calluses, rotten teeth, bad breath (and to the rest see my review of Vetiver of this Maison) A camphoraceous smell, where you can find amber miserably covered of superbalsamic and naphthalenic leather notes that.. really, I understand tradition, but Houses discontinue marvellous perfume for less. Keep it into a museum. Who can wear this unbalanced mess? Well .. your business actually.
butKneeft – :
This review is based on a decant. It opens up with eucalyptus-like herbaceous accord with birch tar in the background. The birch tar starts to come forward after 10 mins and slowly dominates the scent as time passes. Amber only reveals itself towards the dry down. Projection is moderate (arm’s length), which is pretty good for an EdC. Longevity is moderate on my skin.
The herbaceous accord is very reminiscent to amber colored Refreshing Rainbath by Neutrogena and Frankincense & Myrrh room/body mist by Zum Mist, which I own and enjoy using.
Some say it reminds them of Lonestar Memories by Tauer Perfumes, which I have a FB of but I see very little resemblance except for the prominent birch tar note.
If you like birch tar and Rainbath shower gel, you will definitely like this.