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bololos – :
I had had my eye on this for years and had never encountered it on retail shelves here in the USA. Pierre Cardin was everywhere in the 1980s from high end department stores to drug store discounters. I adore this bottle.
22 years after its release, I have this enigmatic and elusive bottle of Ophelie in my hands. Its a lavish dry floral that defies categorizing. I guess its a “floral aldehyde” that had fully evolved in the last decade of the 20th century. Its very French and radiates elegance, romance and style.
It opens with medium aldehydes. Then a tactile, boozy bouquet comes forward almost immediately. The jasmine is big and commanding. Its a little indolic. Osmanthus and ylang ylang are next and they introduce the rose that seems fresh picked. Its PINK, theatrical and harmonizes with the dry rosewood and sandalwood. I pick up a little orange blossom and lily of the valley. They are gently wrapped in oakmoss and vetiver.
Unlike its older sister Rose Cardin, it has no note it spotlights. Its not unlike other 1990s florals that grabs your attention like Organza et al. Its standout is the quality of ingredients. As the notes develop, you feel that you have a “live bouquet” near you. This is truly a perfume masterpiece that is lost in fragrance history.
donhalcedon – :
I agree that it has a rose jam quality to begin with, and that persists a long time. Also what you get at first is a “hairspray rosewood” accord, as I think of it (featuring more than a small amount of aldehydes!). Over time that dissipates a bit, leading to a somewhat woody/powdery quality. It’s rather simple, but lasts well with good projection (“sillage”), and it doesn’t have any “synthetic” or “chemical” quality, other than the aldehydes. In fact, the wood notes here are very good, relative to what one encounters in recent designer scents.
Serga-Romanov – :
Ophelie is a stunning bouquet of rose-jam+rose-marmelade sweetness. Full of Morrocan flowers in full bloom and rosewood. Ylang from the Comores, and sweetest red roses from Morroco, and the only genuine jasmine from Egypt. Northern Africa in a bottle. Makes me think of my vacations to Tunisia, as the jasmine, rose, ylang, really smells like it only does in the north of africa. With a touch of the dry dunes of dessert Sahara. Sun, sand and secret garden from the past, in late full bloom – hidden in the middle of the sands of Sahara, like a mirage. Yes! This Smells like something by Andy Tauer (think “Le Maroc Pour Elle” etc.). And, yes very much like Tauer is what this is indeed. Wow, the bottle itself is a work of art. A true gem, and must-have in any good parfumista-collection. For me – as i’m sensitive to the potent north african kind of jasmin – if you have been there, and like me, experienced the scent of it IRL, you’ll know this jasmine, is the most potent jasmine there is. As much as i love it, it’s just too potent of a jasmine for me. It does really smell like the real (african) deal. But still, i have to give this scent 4stars for capturing the real jasmine-flowers!!