Description
Ummagumma is a dark, rich, mysterious, intoxicating amber fragrance, loaded with real tonka bean absolute and notes of chocolate, tobacco and woody notes. “Ummagumma refers to an infamously heady and weird Pink Floyd album from 1969. Chocolate and tonka bean create a euphoric gourmand opening melded with the richness of tobacco that gradually gives way to ambery labdanum, cedar and incense all warmed by soft musks. Perfect for a night out…Or a night in. Ummagumma is accompanied by a hand-printed, Hand-printed, limited edition serigraph. Signed and numbered. Only 50 made! The print is an original serigraph hand-printed in a signed and numbered edition of only 50 copies.The drawing and design are by Bruno Fazzolari, the red “chop” in the lower right corner certifies it as authentic.The edition was printed by master printer, Conor Ottenweller in Oakland, CA.” – a note from the brand.
Ummagumma was launched in 2017.
эд – :
Long-lasting tobacco oriental with a beautiful top note of spicy carnation with chocolate. It goes through a dry tobacco and saffron phase made more appealing by incense and then dries down completely to your standard amber/vanilla base (which I can still smell 12 hours later). If you like Ambre Fetiche or Anubis or anything that combines sweet amber notes with dry smokey notes, this is worth trying. The opening was the most original, noteworthy part for me.
Kayamntagwarm – :
I got a sample of Ummagumma in the portfolio set that Bruno Fazzolari sells. I highly recommend getting it so you can try all of his fragrances. It is one of my favorites. It includes scents of sweet tobacco, with hints of chocolate, and wood. When you smell it, there is almost a warmth behind it. I like to wear it during the Winter or Fall. I enjoy smelling my wrists when I wear it. I got caught at work once smelling myself. It was awkward, but I don’t care it smells that good. After I ran out of the sample I purchased a full bottle and I can’t wait until Fall arrives to wear it again.
Cetcoowlvet – :
Based on the notes, I thought that I was going to love this, but it was unfortunately not to be. The resins here are gorgeous, but I feel that there is an imbalance between the rich sweetness of the cocoa note and the dryness of the frankincense that throws off the entire composition. This is an interesting attempt to blend the gourmand and liturgical genres, but it just didn’t work on my skin. If the frankincense were subtracted out, this would be a dupe for Ore or Jeke by Slumberhouse – the comparisons made below are spot-on, although Ummagumma doesn’t seem to be trying to pull off the heft or decadence that make Slumberhouse so intriguing to wear.
andrei29 – :
I generally only review perfumes I actually like, but I just had to say my piece on Ummagumma.
First of all: It’s intensly syrupy. I love gourmand perfumes, but it does indeed seem like Ummagumma found my limit.
On paper these notes look like they would create some serious perfume magic, but my friend and I both smell sour leather, orthodox churches and tooth-aching sweetness. My nose sort of… stings when smelling it.
I can appreciate the craft behind the composition, the excellent sillage and lasting power, but the abrasiveness of Ummagumma is simply too much for me.
Judging by the reactions from people around me, this is NOT a crowd pleaser.
gsiyfzktyf – :
Smells just like an Eastern Orthodox church. Dusty pew books, beeswax candles, lacquered icons, stained glass, worn velvet kneeling cushions, and of course… Incense.
On me, this is pure frankincense. There is a boozy chocolate opening that quickly leaves, which is a shame because it really complimented the olibanum well. I do not like labdanum and am glad it is being overpowered by other things. Mainly resiny wood and leather. The tobacco is syrupy, but also ashy. The sandalwood is mysterious. I don’t get carnation or saffron. The vanilla and tonka are buried, so they do not lend more than an abstract sweetness.
It’s strange that the brand is trying to sell Ummagumma as some trippy, Pink Floyd inspired scent. It has a distinct old-world mustiness that remains throughout. It smells ancient. I don’t get a ’69 vibe at all. Even though it’s cliche, patchouli would probably better suited for that. Seek counterculture weirdness elsewhere. This one is all tradition.
линкольн – :
Leather and chocolate are the notes that stand out for me. Open up your leather bag and you’ve got one cigarette left in a pack plus a chocolate bar in there — personal stash!
walgor – :
As a 25 year old man this is not for me or pleasing on women for me.
I get very heady floral fighting a realistic chocolate note.
The quality is respectable, but the middle notes seem to be missing. After the opening you get a realistic woods or mellow plastic note comes through. The woods and that odd note are consumed even in the base making the fragrance fairly linear.
This is a brash loud monster only suitable for the winter or maybe fall nights on eccentric individuals.
Not for me, but we all have our preferences.
erurlertyp – :
As someone has mentioned before. This fragrance has an air of familiarity. For me it reminds me of dame perfumery chocolate man. It does however take a more smokey and secluded path into a gourmand realm.
Predominantly it is a chocolate heavy fragrance. For me i get chocolate,leather,tobacco some vanilla and a touch of creamy sandalwood. The blend is pleasant yet linear. For me it started off with those notes and ended with those same notes.
Not a bad fragrance at all. And would be a wonderful delight to wear during the colder months.
If you are searching for a chocolate scent that has more smokey aspects this may fit your needs quite well.
It last all day smells delightful and isn’t something you will find everyone wearing.
As usual this is my take on a perfume and it is subjective. Always sample and try for yourself.
knifinni – :
The test of a feel-good perfume is versatility. Wear a light dose or douse yourself. Keep it at wrist distance or huff it like poppers. Warm weather, cold weather. Dress it up or go casual. The better feel-good fragrances hover closer to the center of a set of olfactory dynamics rather than at the extremes. It’s what makes them versatile and appealing over time. The question is how to make the middle ground interesting.
Amber perfumes have a pitfall: the resinous materials they’re built from smell really good. Labdanum, olibanum, tonka, vanilla and sandalwood are considered stand-alone perfumes. The risk, the trap really, is highlighting materials at the expense of composition. Old-school oriental perfumes avoided the hazard by making complex, larger than life scents. Unfortunately, their lavish style makes them a bit rococo for modern use and their orientalist origins weigh them down even more than their dense base notes do. The costume, play-acting cheesiness of orientalism can seem both mannered and childish to the contemporary sensibility. Modern indie amber perfumes have the opposite challenge. They run the same risk as the stoner amber oils of the hippy era from which they derive: oversimplification.
Fazzolari finds a balance point somewhere between the two positions and Ummagumma avoids chinoiserie at one end and oversimplification at the other. While it’s clear he looks closely at his materials—his palette—it seems that the materials don’t so much drive the composition as provide the medium for Fazzolari to illustrate an idea, in this case how to integrate the classic oriental and the indie amber.
Two examples: First, the way that the creamy, vanillic tones are nested deep in resins is old-school, but by avoiding the rest of the classic oriental’s luggage—the aromatic topnotes, the warm floral bouquet, the heavily accessorized style—Ummagumma taps into the richness of vintage orientals while easily side-stepping the melodrama. Second, the perfume’s chocolate is unmistakably gourmand and the note is a nod to the contemporary style of gourmand ambers, but there’s a twist. Many modern amber perfumes have discovered the easy link between dessert notes and resinous materials but relying on lazy combinations gives the perfumes a passive quality. The accords might be pleasant but they just lay there. Ummagumma builds a chain of associations and makes the chocolate more than a candy treat at the center of the perfume. Chocolate suggests cocoa, which in turn hints at powder. The bitter powder fuses with the sweet resins and an unexpected dry carnation note to give a hint of animalism that that makes it seem neither traditional nor trendy.
Ummagumma is new territory for Fazzolari. (sort of *) It’s a gourmand amber and it’s unlike anything else in his line. Most of Fazzolari’s perfumes play with their genres, often using volatile and aromatic topnotes to situate themselves in their genres and then fucking with your expectations once you start to get settled. Fazzolari is able to hold seeming contradictions in place without easy resolutions. He takes advantage of the vibrancy that come from contrasting dynamics, but leaves the debate open, giving the perfumes a touch of friction that makes them so interesting over time. Ummagumma stands between the classic oriental and the indie amber without conceding to either. It’s the sort of nuance that distinguishes Fazzolari’s work from many of his indie contemporaries and keeps me coming back to his perfumes.
* Ummagumma has definite ties to Cadavre Exquis, a perfume created by Fazzolari and Antonio Gardoni. They used gourmand and resinous accords to create jarring effects. In tone, Cadavre Exquis is miles from the mellow Ummagumma. Comparing the two brings up a question for another day: What happens when you use a similar set of notes to express completely different ideas?
(from scenthurdle.com)
stas1ss5 – :
I bought a bottle because samples were sold out everywhere and the notes/descriptions were amazing. I like it, but I feel like I could have accomplished the same effect by layering Serge Lutens Chergui and Slumberhouse Baque, which I already own. I would miss the dark chocolate notes, but not enough to justify the price tag. I think I was expecting more of a deep chocolatey tobacco and less of the dry spice found in Chergui. I don’t mind it in my collection, but the projection feels smaller than it should be and I wouldn’t have bought a bottle if I had sampled it first.
lobimator21 – :
Ummagumma is surely Bruno Fazzolari’s most delicious composition yet, a mostly-gourmand blend of cacao, labdanum, vanilla, tobacco, and woods.
It’s sweet, creamy, resinous, and woody. Quite likable for lovers of sweet and gourmand fragrances, similar but not as a sweet as Kyse Perfumes as Ummagumma lacks the graham cracker vibe, it’s also a bit like Slumberhouse Ore but without Ore’s signature pepper strength. Tobacco gives Ummagumma some character, as well, rounding out the sweet/woody pairing with a slight edginess. Carnation and leather are listed notes, as well, but I don’t really detect either. Perhaps the leather just mixes well with the tobacco, though.
Performance is very good, strong in both projection and longevity. Based on the performance, the $125 for 30ml price is more warranted for Ummagumma than perhaps for any other of the house’s offerings.
This very well might be my favorite release from the house to date, along with Five. Very impressive, a gourmand creation that is nonetheless sophisticated and even restrained in certain ways but certainly amounts to an amalgam of interesting notes, expertly blended. Bravo to Bruno!
8 out of 10
СПетрович – :
I get burnt wood, frankincense, and sweet creamy Easter bunny chocolate. Ummagumma is a very high end s’more with crispy burnt edges, a creamy molten center and something deeper underneath it all but I’m not under its spell. I’ve tried other riffs on this theme which I strongly prefer. Regardless, a competent and delicious perfume.
Elena_sk – :
Deja Vu. That’s my first impression. I feel I’ve smelled this before, but I can’t remember the name. It is somehow reminiscent of a lot of incense-themed scents (Heeley, Tauer, Mandy Aftel, Sonoma Scent Studio) thrown in with some chocolate Bond-T, and a resinous Serge Lutens. The familiarity however, does not breed contempt.
This is luscious.
While it is not exactly like any of the above, I’m trying to recall where I smelled something similar.
But what do I smell? Chocolate (Boom!) followed by pipe tobacco and flanked with a delicious Vanilla Tonka (not gourmand somehow). This is the 90% chocolate, dark, rich, lush, barely edible chocolate. Within 10 minutes, those three predominant notes comingle beautifully with woods and incense, almost smokey, but not like cade, more beautifully sweet and fragrant smoke. This is a well-balanced, deep dark fragrance that after the first hour lightens into a more amber-incense themed scent, a bit sexy but also comforting. The silage is moderate, not particularly great after that 10 minute opening, but the longevity is moderate to long. This is a hit! I wasn’t keen on the name though I love Pink Floyd, but the scent is quite good. Thumbs up here.
OLEG7373 – :
Very interesting scent, it reminds me of Caftan by YSL, with the shared notes Olibanum and Labdanum. The Geranium in Umagumma brings a spicy edge, similar to the Pink Peppercorn note in Caftan. The geranium pairs well with chocolate giving a spicy chocolate feel which plays nicely with the Olibanum.
Ruseindi – :
Labdanum, olibanum, tobacco, & chocolate.
This is most likely a chocolate incense with geranium, leather, and cedar beside the saffron. It’s quite woody as well.
A very interesting blend of smoke and chocolate. I need to test it more.
Edit (7th June 2018) It reminds me of “Ore” by Slumberhouse with that burnt chocolate & woods but without coconut.
StaruiMariman999 – :
Bruno Fazzolari continues to push boundaries in modern perfumery with this new eclectic resinous gourmand offering which goes into the Slumberhouse territory but just stops short of going all the way there. The central note like Ore is the delicious chocolate, but in this case it is just a small part of the overall lighter confection. It is layered with tobacco, musk, tonka bean, labdanum, cedar and a slight hint of incense. Resinous, warm, bright, a bit feminine leaning, this one has enormous sillage and projection. This is not going to please everyone because it is a strange dark sweetness. But if you like Slumberhouse offerings (such as Ore or Jeke) or Bruno’s own limited edition “Cadavre Exquis” you must get this one. Really comforting and warm and perfect for winter weather, I continue to be a fan of this very promising new perfumer and this is my 5th full bottle purchase from this house.
Zvukavik – :
It’s not nearly as gourmandy and chocolatey as they’d like you to believe; instead it’s exquisitely resinous—lots of labdanum, olibanum, and dry tobacco. This smells very mature (spiritually), warm & dry at the same time, and yes, reminds me of one of the Devs, just unsure if it’s #2.
Spasateli – :
WOW! I got a sample of this a few days ago and I am completely enamored. The cacao top note reminds me a lot of Cadavre Exquis, it’s rich and rummy, and fades into a gorgeous amber with whispers of myhrr. Today I applied ONE SPRAY at work, and a few minutes later, a co-worker separated by a hallway and two closed doors asked if I’d put something on, because something “woody and green” was drifting into her office,(and she didn’t mind a bit) 🙂 meaning the sillage is at least eight feet, but somehow it’s not overpowering, even up close.
PYK – :
Just got a sample of this with an order. So far, delicious boozy chocolate with burnished wood, dark tobacco, and amber. Sweet, but not cloying. Very cozy and perfect for cold weather. I think if you like Slumberhouse Ore or Parfums d’Empire Ambre Russe and the like, you’ll love this.
Update: I still have the same impression but have decided it is too sweet and syrupy for me in the end. If it got airier and drier as it dried down, I’d like it more.