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Inhergy – :
What. Is. This. Witchcraft?
I smelled this blind, knowing nothing more about it than the name and the house. It is utterly bizarre – and completely compelling. So strange and so constantly-mutating it kept and keeps me guessing because my nose and brain can’t figure out what on earth is going on. A riot of conflicting and sometimes not even pleasant impressions – but the kind of thing that keeps you sniffing and sniffing and sniffing – and which takes some astonishing turns through different territories.
Like other Apotekers it’s just so weird and yet so rooted in nature. The notes I jotted down about it read like a surrealist improv session: ” wet clay … gum … glue … Copydex? … more gum … eucalyptus? camphor? but there’s resin … is it tolu balsam? plasticine? then deep wood then… tuberose? WTF? who put those flowers in there? but so beautiful…”
So obviously my nose wasn’t having a good day, but that’s the way this blend tormented and toyed with me, continuing on its merry way, riding a rollercoaster of scent impressions, morphing from one scent to a completely other one every 20 minutes or so, growing more beautiful as it went, becoming sweeter and weirder and still more fascinating until I could barely deal with it any more.
The note pyramid here makes it all make a little more sense, but not much. There’s still strange magic in the mix. This is a mind-bender, in the best possible way. My jotting notes end: “Total Enigma – My God WHAT A HOUSE…” and I’ll stand by it. For me this is so far from simple it’s not even funny. One to try to open your horizons out for sure.
gdh636Negeltzex – :
@raw umber hit the nail on the head nicely, I would just add that while the opening of this is blissfully skanky and delish, the 1 hour mark shows it to have a cheaper vetiver heavy base which it ultimately burns down to and there’s no hint of the opening left 🙁 If it stayed where it was at the opening, it would’ve had a good shot at my top 5 list! (9/17)
zla302elipseskism – :
Barnyard lipstick creamy rooty waxy bliss.
I first sampled The Peradam in 2015 and haven’t been able to get it out of my mind since. The Peradam opens with a very challenging natural orris bomb. If you don’t truly love orris you will hate this perfume. The opening is raunchy. The heart has a salty, close to skin, animalic quality probably also from the orris.
The jasmine comes in very strong towards the middle and end stages, smelling cloudy, astringent/green and blunt, not like the sparkling and indolic aroma of the flower, but like the tea, or the essential oil, albeit a very fine essential oil.
Sandalwood and lily are way in the background here. This perfume is an homage to orris and jasmine. If you don’t love each of those in their purest and rawest forms, this won’t be for you. If you’re not sure, testing the Peradam is a great way to find out.
In the dry down, I do get a whiff of straight sandalwood here and there with the shadow of orris sticking around. This perfume is like my spirit animal. The first time the word “bewitching” has actually applied to a scent for me. Takes some time to get to know and even then, you can be surprised to find yourself in its grip.
Update:
I ultimately decided not to purchase this because even though the quality and the scent was very impressive, it never became more than the sum of its parts. It smelled like high quality orris mixed with jasmine and sandalwood essential oils. I wanted a harmony that I never found. The elements stayed separate. Maybe some will love it for that very thing. I went with New Sibet instead.
KAN-Alex – :
When I read that The Peradam contained real orris butter, Mysore sandalwood (sustainably harvested) and a rare extraction of Jasmine grandiflorum, I could not wait to get my paws on it.
When it hits my skin, it smells like a glob of wet, starchy, gray chalk. The jasmine is equally intense, luminous, almost too sharp. These two ingredients blended together create an odd juxtaposition of dark and bright. I have never experienced them together so prominently, so at first it feels confusing and unfamiliar, which is fascinating because it’s certainly not a fragrance I can say that I have smelled somewhere else before. It doesn’t remind me of any other perfume.
Soon I begin to smell something faintly woody and smoky, like the scent of burnt wood that lingers in the air from a wood-burning stove. The perfume behaves like smoke too. It clings to things. For days after I sprayed the perfume on my wrists, I could smell that smoky note each time I walked past the spot in my room on which I was standing when I sprayed. It only smelled smoky, not like jasmine or orris, so it took a while to realize it was The Peradam. The smokiness is one of my favorite features of the perfume….after the orris butter.
Sometime in the drydown, the orris butter blooms. No longer is it the chalky, gray, arguably oppressive scent of which it started out. It softens, sweetens, and literally melts into an oily, creamy scent that resembles salted sweet cream butter. I updated this review to add that I never noticed before that there is an intense animalic note in the base. Kind of barnyard stanky, reminds me a lot of Guerlain perfumes. I remember the first time I smelled Shalimar Initial, I thought it smelled like bad breath. I get that same funkiness with The Peradam.
As the jasmine relaxes and mellows, the three key ingredients combine to create something cohesive and familiar. The drydown smells like something I would describe as femme fatale, oozing with allure, stylish, modern-vintage and a little bit shabby-chic. The scent is a soft, plush, cozy, rounded, rich floral with a delicate sweetness that reminds me of powdery violets. Very beautiful and addictive.
The Paradam is a gorgeous perfume, not to be missed. This is one of those perfumes, like Tauer’s masterpiece L’Air Du Desert Marocain, that every niche newbie or seasoned niche aficionado should at least sample, even if sheerly to experience the qualilty of the raw materials.
yuretc007 – :
Beautiful orris butter opens this up for me then a hint of lily, Jasmine is lightly blended in too and settles to a sandlewood but never loses its buttery orris. This has obviously been created using high quality ingredients and this lady has a fantastic nose for scents. It’s simple yet not simply blended if you understand what I mean, I love orris in scents but never smelt one quite like this. It’s linear and its spillage isn’t huge but longevity is very good, it’s a masterpiece in my eyes.
sauleid – :
This was one of the easiest and quickest buys I’ve ever made. A quick sample spritz, a sniff or two, and I found myself bringing the box up to the counter with my credit card in hand.
The slightly waxy richness of the high quality orris immediately steps forward. Soon the waxy edge dissipates, and opens to the simple yet clever florals woven in.
And the sandalwood! OH, the sandalwood! Far from being the rockstar of this composition, it stands quietly holding it all together, keeping the florals from yelling too loud. An adept conductor at the helm of these flowery musicians. It also doesn’t lean into the rubbery dry down which my skin seems to be prone to evoking from sandalwood.
Naomi Goodsir also released the glorious Iris Cendre in 2015, and it reached a fair bit of (well-deserved) acclaim. I feel The Peradam was rudely overlooked, and both deserve to stand as noteworthy executions of iris/orris.
A bit of the oldschool, a bit of sexy sophistication, and a whole lot of compositional genius are all represented here.
tsaritsa – :
This fragrance is a work of art. Rich buttery orris of the highest quality with delicate white starry jasmine blossoms scattered throughout. A single perfect lily as the centerpiece and rooted in sublime sandalwood. It is like spring immortalized in a bottle.
simka – :
That orris is like something fried! like a french fries being fried in an old used oil, or a frying old pan on duty. I sense also a seashell essence with some jasmine and sandalwood.
I guess im not accepting the essence of orris.
Edit (9th Aug 2017) Oh how my nose developed! Now this orris does smell like fried french fries, but it’s more rooty and got enchanting overtime. The musk is adding that plant animalic roots to it and makes it quite raw and enchanting. A bless to be specific.
Edit (27th Aug 2017) Oh now i got it, it’s the oily effect that is slathered all over the place! it does smell rooty orris, jasmines, and sandalwood but in a very oily blend, it even got close to fried steak with that weird oil! it is quite weird!
mamuka – :
Genius construction. An indolic rare extract of jasmine grandiflorum and Madonna lily, with their sweetness tempered by orris butter and Mysore sandalwood. Natural and earthy, the notes blend into an accord that is fascinating. Quite unique – haven’t smelled anything like this. I kept smelling my arm for hours to take in the wonderful fragrance. To me, it is the smell of The Shire in LOTR. Bucolic, innocent, but with a shadow. Soft sillage, longevity about 5 hrs. on me.
ruslan745 – :
‘The Peradam’ was my (early) Christmas present to myself this year, and I have been enjoying it very much. It is a quiet, calm, and earthy fragrance.
This perfume opens on my skin as ORRIS with lily flickering in and out. Despite the lily, I would not describe this fragrance as any sort of floral perfume. After the orris burns down a little bit, the sandalwood emerges. By this time the perfume has become a skin scent, and I have to hold my wrist to my nose to smell it. The quality of ingredients in this perfume is second to none.
I feel that the concept of this perfume has been translated well with its materials. As the apotheosis of a holy journey (as manifested in the other perfumes of this series), ‘the peradam’ is the objective of this quest. The lily and sandalwood hint at the spiritual, while the orris root and sandalwood represent the precious. Simple, but well done.