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the_unforgiven – :
I was keeping an eye on this one for a couple months after it became harder to find.
I have tried the other two fragrances from this designed and I blind bought this one thinking it may be good, but I prefer the other two. I need to give it more tries, to see if it evolves differently. So far is ok, but just ok.
It does smells like tea right at the opening, like a rich cup of black tea…
Eureka, I am the only one wearing it in the whole fragrantica community today.. 🙂
nik100 – :
In a nutshell, the easiest way to describe this is that it is essentially a smoky Millesime Imperial.
Another (slightly less accurate) way to view it is that it is a merger between Bulgari Homme Soir and Bulgari Black, absent the creamier vanilla elements and including a fruity mix (I get melon, predominately).
Being an avid Oolong drinker, Id like to note that the tea note is much closer to that of lapsang souchong; there is a distinct smoky note, compared to the lighter “toasted / roasted” flavor of Oolong.
A juicy/wet fougere, the dichotomy here is between the smoky elements and the wet, fragrant juiciness of tea, orange blossom, and melon (accomplished here more skillfully than in Aventus). It is an interesting balance. The initial blast of smoke settles fairly quickly, and the rest of the fragrance is linear; the smoke slowly giving way to the herbal and floral elements over the life of the fragrance. I think the screechy-ness here is the sharpness of the smoke as it settles. To those unaccustomed to the note, it can be sharp and piercing.
The fragrance is tightly blended; the jasmine, orange blossom, tea, and violet all come together like a bushel of herbs after a misting of rain. The melon note keeps things “round” and “moist”, and takes the edge off the smokiness so that it doesnt fall into “barbecue” territory like some smoky fragrances do.
Performance is solid, 8-9 hours, and this would be a good choice for a man looking for a unique twist on a modern, wet fougere. The addition of tea, smoke, and fruits introduce new facets you dont get in your standard green brew; Aventus tries to achieve this kind of complexity but fails. As always, I am happy to provide samples / decants of any of my fragrances.
FOISON – :
Once more I must pay tribute to Luca Turin by disagreeing with him.
I think The Brun is wonderful.
The powerful but supple smokey green tea gives way to early evening in Provence when the Orangetrees are in bloom and someone has lit a woodfire in the distance..its a long lasting delight that is polite and never shouts.
callofduty1990 – :
Aromatic spicy fern with tea accord.
A lovely, classy, discreet and masculine fragrance. I can definitely smell the tea and musk as well as the orange blossom, but I didn’t know it had bergamot, pineapple, melon, and all those other ‘masculine florals’ of lavender, jasmine, lily of the valley, and violet as well as cinnamon and cardamom. In effect, it smells a lot like wearing a sophisticated, spicy, musky, Earl Grey Tea.
The base of this fragrance is cumin, smoky Chinese lapsang souchong tea, amber, vanilla and musk.
Recommended for warmer weather, balmy evenings and definitely for the office and boardroom, a suit, job interview and perhaps even a long flight somewhere! Definitely not a casual scent for the boys, partying nor hiking, etc ….
The drydown is sexy, sensual and close to the skin. I kept sniffing myself after wearing it!
It’s nice to be near a man wearing this ultra-sophisticated and classic fragrance!