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kaka5kaka5 – :
If Farah was a hit then Subversif is a knockout!! God Bless the perfumer. There’s a lot going on here. Plenty of notes are detectable. The patchouli is very distinguished and smells nice and Bohemian to the core(more about the patchouli later). There’s a dash of bergamot used here to tenderize the woody quality the same way you would tenderize a steak. The cinnamon has an inconsistent presence until the fig shows up. What was believed to be a wanderer of a note is actually committed to the warm milky fig. A Mexican horchata is seemingly born.
You will quickly learn of the Janus-faced nature of this fragrance.
This is a spooky perfume. It has that malevolent green grave robber feel to it. The leather adds to the threatening nature. To make matters weirder, the cowhide note actually smells like the rubber sole of a shoe. That aroma lives as the base for some of the middle part. The heliotrope, cassis and tobacco are used like botox fillers ridding the composition of the blemishes. The patchouli note wears many hats while never fumbling: Lead Performer, Host and Closer. The bushy herb arrives with the “Hey look at me character” then it sorta plays the background but later resurfaces to let you know that it’s the King Joffe Joffer of Subversif. Welp…there you have it! Another fragrance that you can officially add to your want list. No doubt you will smile from mandible to mandible.
BLIND BUY WORTHY
Anton66 – :
On first spray, Subversif reminds me of Thierry Mugler Angel — strong patchouli with some rich green notes, lots and lots of texture (I was never a fan).
What I like so much better in this fragrance is that it is so much cleaner, better structured without the need for overly sweet crowd pleasing chewiness. There is room to breathe while still commanding respect with its strong character.
Subversif is raw yet refined, bitter in its greenness with bright bergamot at the top. The green bergamot note knits seamlessly with the cassis / blackcurrant leaf, transitioning from luminous citrus to deep verdance, carrying the patchouli all the way.
Vetiver is present but not dominant, rooty and earthy and giving body to the dry cinnamon. Tobacco is an accent that offers richness and depth without smoke; just a lovely, sensual smoulder.
Fig and ambergris are coupled together in this composition, very smooth, a little animalic and weaving all the well-chosen notes together without adding too much weight, only more depth and a little natural sweetness, occasionally sauntering into a live coconut grove.
Heliotrope lends opulence without being deliberately floral, just an opalescent sparkle now and then which compliments the subtle smooth fresh leather texture.
Subversif is so multifaceted, very unique, and holds my interest all the way through its evolution and for the duration that this remains on my skin, which by the way bears great longevity and sillage.
I would say this leans slightly toward the masculine side of unisex with its bitter, dark green heart, but is also one that I can easily wear for its beautiful, subversive rebellion. Subversif is a big love for me and goes to the top of my want list.