Description
“Please welcome ROZY—the new fragrance of Vero Profumo—a scent like a rosy tattoo and a tribute to Anna Magnani! ” announced Vero Kern, the owner and perfumer of the house of Vero Profumo on her website and FB page! The fifth and latest fragrance of the collection has been announced as wonderful, velvety, a scent of unusual beauty. Its essence is erotic, glamorous, at the same time faithful and wild, and the very fragrance works under the skin and on the skin as a tattoo.
The composition of the announced fragrance Rozy is composed of carefully selected ingredients: oriental rose, tuberose, currant buds and leaves, honey, spices, sandalwood and labdanum which will be available in Rozy Extrait and Rozy Voile d’Extrait, while the composition of Rozy Eau de Parfum is created of oriental rose sweetened with peach zest and passion fruit, rounded up with lilac flowers. Rozy Eau de Parfum version is also enriched with honey and warm and creamy sandalwood.
New compositions by Vero Kern are inspired by “pure love of Anna Magnani, from the movie Rose Tattoo.” Rozy Voile d’Extrait was launched in 2014.
Andru23 – :
I really appreciate this perfumer. The compositions take risks and always tell a story.
Rozy is a sunset fragrance that is reckless in direction. I feel like it was made for people who have suffered great disappointments in life and have developed an attitude of “$*(# it”.
The white note here is so loud, so sure of itself. Yet so lonely. Far in the distance is a dry, reedy vibe. At the end of a deep inhale I can sense its tenacity, and this I fully appreciate.
this is a complex scent that I recommend sampling
lexa40 – :
This is one of the least Floral floral scents I have ever smelled, although it is the complete opposite of the dry non floral floral Le Labo Rose 24! Hey maybe it’s just moi, but I get neither Rose nor Tuberose nor “white floral” which are in the notes pyramid up there! I do smell purple, green, gold and silver, none of the Floral variety. The opening sharp fruit blast is one of my favorite parts, and lets you know that this is not going to be a conventional perfume tumble — if you couldn’t tell by the bottle and the name — and it’s a wild and wonderful ride!
It’s like a perfect dish by a brilliant chef. It has wonderfully balanced elements of acid, spice, sweetness, texture, color and flavor, perfectly seasoned, and you have never really tasted anything like it before. Very entertaining!
On the other hand it is easy to have an intense chemical reaction that makes it impossible to appreciate any of the Vero fragrances, which I happen to have with Onda, the scent everyone adored when her line launched, so samples are a must!
PS I just wore this on a rainy cold day in Paris and although I found the sharp fruity aspect as pleasurable as always, more of the floral quality was present for me than ever before (and I am almost finished with my bottle!) maybe a body chem thing or else an exhausted nose, go figure!
papaseaman – :
now the best revelation with Vero.Kerns ‘Rozy’ came a couple of days ago while I have quite the collection here as off 2014 I guess starting with Rubj extrait and going all the way to Naja. I love rose perfumes and Rozy is a kind of ‘abstract rose perfume’ yet it isn’t so conceptual as ‘to make the rose perfume without a veritable presence of rose de mai in it or rose taif or bulgarian rose. well a couple of days ago (Rozy stood in waiting for some years) I came from work and when spritzing on two spritzes of Rozy I immediately was transponded to perfume heaven not in the least due to the sheer force of the enveloping, well it was rather a blast, of this perfum-ey perfume in my nostrils with this heady thick wall of honey, rose and tuberose. after work this was pure delight and…happiness. it is a formidable perfume with a force 9 on the Richter’s scale. but it is also, not so much of a conceptual (although the ‘tattoo narrative and reverence to Anna Magnani’ are touching and strong) but here the aromatherapeutic blending genius of Vero Kern come to full fruition. it is Rozy Extrait de Parfum I am talking about and what hangs in the air, continuously with [Gouldian] ‘variations on a theme’, is this hypercloud of olphactory sensations with everchangeing character out of which a spicey, honeyed rose-tuberose emerge. the spices are very insistent and ‘complexisizing’ which enriches the perfume only incessantly and ballistically. nutmeg, coriander, black berry leaf notes (amiably piss-like), labdanum and styrax all come to the fore making this an extraordinary complex yet soothing and (luckily) at times haunting perfume. this blast I got ‘postWork’ got also rid of all little sorrows I was still carrying along. the perfume makes you want to search for the rose which interferes with all notes and forms a diva bedecked with jewels, gems, couture. the Vero.Kern DNA is clearly recognizable and it is a true pleasure to define a day with one of her perfumes but hey, I have Pissara Umavijani here also to reckon with and several Oudh-Roses, Montale, Ex Idolo’s Thirty Three et cetera. like Dusita Vero.Kern suits as well in nichiste levels as in the tradition of the old european perfume makers (with Asian references for Dusita and Swiss ‘edelweisschian’ exceptionalities/tonalities for Vero.Kern) . what pleasure it is to have these ladies enrich the reigning perfume establishment.
zve011speagoessenda – :
Now this is not different from the others but quite captivating although i didn’t like the top note or in other words never thought that it would transform into something quite charming! as the very first spray was kind of chaos and confusing with that harsh roses soaked in sticky honey with some flavors of white floral and some fruitti notes. The roses remains conquering the whole scene with it’s harshness and unique essence for several minutes.
And as it calms down i can sense Knize 10 with more of a rosy notes, something like dry rice from sackcloth bag, slightly animalic with a twist to alter the rosy dominant note and goes quite dry. this is unisex and never feminine only.
astederios – :
Rozy is indeed a scent that might arouse a thinking mind-
The smell conjures vero’s own -Onda-laying at the top-
A kinda deep nutmeg cloak with mild spice
as deeper breaths take you into the labdanum, which (though i find generally comforting) can puff baby powder vibes-But here it wears its harness-
and does not stray from within the entire composition
Rich and Dry
Two sides touch side by side
The tuberose shows its rubbery, chewy facets and peek a boo rose lie between them as if they are held together by honey atop charred leaves and woods
the ‘honey’ is like a concept- putting its arms around it all to act like a thread that connects elements to unity – Its not particularly the sugary facets of honey that come into play- its as if honey were a skin, warm, smooth and ever changing as a dense, thick liquid that bends and mingles with what is around it -the infinity symbol is the visual im getting
NapeAcenniani – :
rozy
Perfumery gets away with a lot. It can tell you quite a bit if you’re listening, but because it can’t be pinned down to any literal meaning, it appears entirely subjective. It’s the ongoing problem of scent and language. Because we can’t express clearly to others what we smell, we confuse the personal for the subjective. Scent doesn’t convey a repeatable, specific meaning in the way a visual image does. Show 10 people a photo of a cat, ask, “What is this?” and they’ll all answer either a cat or an image of a cat. Representation is easy with the visual. It gets harder with the olfactory. Wave a fragrant rose under 10 noses and ask the same question and you might get a majority of “Rose” answers. Try the same with perfume and who knows what the responses will be.
Vero Kern creates the tools to look a little closer. The three versions of her fragrances–extrait, voile d’extrait, eau de parfum–are not just different concentrations. They are different points of view. Kern states that the purpose of the voile d’extrait is to combine the potency and shape of the extrait with the lift and expansiveness of the edp. In investigating an idea over the course of three versions of the perfume, Kern does in one shot what Edmond Roudnitska did over his career with Eau Sauvage, Diorella and Parfum de Thérèse. Both perfumers explore an idea or set of principals over the course of a number of perfumes.
Branding is apparently a necessary evil, and Kern’s approach is both old-school and effective. Not the the marketing blunderbuss of Chanel or the LVMH subsidiaries. Not the dancing-as-fast-as-I-can dissembling of Creed PR. Not the bell-curve mediocrity you get when design and marketing are so close as to be indistinguishable (Maison Francis Kurkdjian). Vero Profumo’s strategy appears to be this: make a concise and well-edited line of exceptional products, package them beautifully, let the artist speak.
The three versions of her perfumes aren’t an attempt to gain a larger demographic foothold and they aren’t the product of focus group tinkering. They are the expression of fully explored creative concepts. Each model stands on its own, but smelling the different versions feels like an exploration. Perfumery tends to have a very limited view of the relationship of perfumes in a line. A line is formed by throwing everything against the wall and seeing what sticks ( ie., serial releases) and then copying what does stick ( ie., flankers) Kern’s approach borrows from other art forms and, while each of her perfumes is a complete work, it can also be understood as an episode, a movement, an act, a part of a series or triptych.
.rozy highlights perfume’s capacity to explore aesthetics. Despite marketing that tells you that a perfume is ‘about’ yachting, privilege, hipness or cupcakes, or that a perfume will make you sexier, what perfume in fact offers is the chance to explore the world from a particular sensory angle. Kern’s work shines when it’s viewed conceptually. For all its complexity and density, .rozy has clarity and it wins me over for its beauty and its integrity. Kern doesn’t try to convince you, she offers you excellent perfume and asks you to consider it. No bullshit. No yachting, no promise of heightening my allure.
.rozy is thick with ideas. Large dynamic qualities sit next to subtleties. Acute angles and body-shaped curves intersect. While there are references (Knize Ten and Jean Desprez’s Bal à Versailles, Anna Magnani’s performance in The Rose Tatoo) they aren’t overstated. They are enhancements to your experience. The punctuation and spelling of the name tell you that rose is involved, but that it is a qualified rose, ‘not your mother’s’ rose. Rose is nested so far into leather notes that I only notice it out of the corner of my eye. Even the leather is a moving target, ranging from rubber to dust to honey. .rozy isn’t the expected woody, balsamic, syrupy or ambered rose. It’s hardly a rose perfume at all. It’s more of an Easter-egg hunt for the rose that you’re told is hidden somewhere. Expectation of a rose might take you into this perfume, but the leathery tar is what sticks to you. .rozy has a long arc over the course of a day, though. Where you first feel caught in a tar pit, by the end of the day you find yourself lounging in a honey pot. Were you captured? Did you choose to stay? Did you submit?
Were you seduced? I was.
.rozy is a serious perfume and requires backbone to wear. Wearing .rozy is like going to the ballet or the opera. Anyone can buy a ticket, but the audience who are taught the language and history of the form appreciates it differently. The same goes for .rozy. Anyone could wear it, but perfumists will just squeal over it.
from scenthurdle.com
Olleg78 – :
This is a complex and long-lasting fragrance. I have tried the EdP, but felt that the fruity rose in that one was not meant for me.
The Voile d’Extrait on the other hand suits me much better. It is most of all a tuberose fragrance, as others have pointed out. Starting a bit crisp and fruity on my skin, and soon develops into a full tuberose scent. But not pure tuberose; there is certainly a strong element of Knize Ten as alfarom mentioned, a kind of floral-leather-petroleum scent, which is also somewhat powdery. On my skin Knize Ten is more petroleum than leather and it feels the same here with Rozy. There is also a bit of honey, but it is not very prominent on my skin.
All in all it feels like a classical, perhaps a bit old-fashioned ‘real’ perfume. Unisex and long lasting and with a good projection. The quality of the materials seem very good, but I can’t really sense any rose.
rustalive – :
EN. “Rozy” has 2 editions, but I liked the Voile d’Extrait one. It so great tuberose, I ever tried. Then, some honey, coriander and rose, but I feel that is’s still the unisex perfume, magical and highly concentrated.
IT. “Rozy” ha 2 edizioni, ma mi è piaciuto solo quella di Voile d’Extrait. E’ così perfetta la sua tuberosa, una come questa io abbia mai sentito prima. E poi un po’ di miele, coriandolo e la rosa… Nonostante gli ingredienti “femminili” è un profumo unisex, magico e concentratissimo.
evgenix2011 – :
I have sampled or have in my collection many types of perfumes. I can love and appreciate them all, but I have discovered that my chemistry has to have the old fashioned rose jasmine accord. I bought a sample of this from Lucky Scent because the review said that it was like a contemporary version of Nahema or Shocking, my two most favorite fragrances of all time! Obviously, I had to try it! The first sniff was wow, this is how perfumes used to be made! The three notes that I get in spades are tuberose,honey and benzoin. There may be rose somewhere in there, but I can’t distinguish it at all. The drydown is really lovely, a little smoky and full of honey and very much resembles the reformulated Shocking and something in the drydown hints of the the original Shocking. I do not tolerate tuberose very well, but the first shot of it doesn’t last too long before the honey takes over. This fragrance is very beautiful and gives me hope that old time perfumery is not dead yet! Thank you Vero!
DRAIV – :
“Everyone praises the endurance of the ascetic, but no one appreciates the stamina of the hedonist. To laugh until the throat burns and smoke a cigar to soothe it, to black out but not pass out, to love without climax, to be immortal in the moment – what stoic has such fortitude?”
– Bauvard, The Darkness of Nature
Rozy is an immolation of a perfume. Don’t expect a stoic rose soliflore, or even for Rozy to be Rubj for roses. It’s neither. It’s more Knize Ten than Une Rose: a bombastic dinosaur of ’80s floriental cut at odd angles with niche oddity. Boucheron in a burlesque retrospective.
The rose itself in Rozy is more hinted at than present, lost and buried somewhere in between honey and blackcurrant, realized more as a whiff of Caronade in the manner of Or et Noir than as a living blossom. Tuberose has got your back on this caper, and your front, middle, and sides, in case you might miss my meaning, buoyed up on a plush duvet of orange blossom, opopanax, and benzoin.
While this ( the Voile d’Extrait I’m reviewing, that is ) doesn’t reference other fragrances of Vero’s, it shares their common thread of smelling simultaneously like a vintage perfume, and also one of the stranger creatures in niche. I’d recommend it to fans of Knize Ten ( uncannily in the top notes ), Miel de Bois ( in the heart ), and among newer releases, Calice Becker’s Sweet Redemption ( the fuzzed-out orange blossom palpable throughout ). Fans of the Caron urn scents and larger ’80s feminines should also find something to love in here.
Word to the wise: Rozy is a tank. The Voile d’Extrait is the dilute variant of the ( presumably Brobdingnagian ) Parfum Extrait, but even given that, one spray makes its presence felt far beyond arm’s-length. Tread cautiously.
mr.Dude – :
I had very high hopes for this one, but thankfully only bought a decant because after applying, on my skin at least, it smells exactly like Tabu. Now Tabu does seem like something Anna Magnani would have worn but would pay a LOT less for it than Rozy Voile.
Yes, it is a high quality fragrance, much higher than Dana’s Tabu, but it is still Tabu.
Lelik_mich – :
i received my sample from bloom perfumery, london.
ohhhh no no no no no! why me? something in this, once applied to the skin, instantly turns into a sneezefest. the honey (i think) literally explodes on me in vulgar, powdery, bug-spray-like horridness and remains so for a good hour. sheer and absolute devastation.
i persevered however, and the honey, the culprit i feel, finally settled and began to recede. from beneath the sticky, powdered sludge, a woody rose slowly begins to unfurl its petals, and slower still, a tuberose. still soaked in sweet honey, but much less of a headache. in these moments, it really was quite an extraordinarily beautiful fragrance. it’s not to be though. approximately two to three hours on, it’s all sunken beneath the waves once again, and all there is is honey and vanilla. sillage and longevity on me thus far have both been impressive, it’s just all honey and vanilla. disappointed thoroughly, although i guess that’s skin chemistry…
EDIT: further on, there is definitely something in this that does not agree with my skin. a hideously synthetic-smelling wood, once more drenched in honey, has emerged. i finally have to scrub, 5 hours after spraying. damn it all!
Orefeania – :
Gorgeous and I am not crazy about rose scents!
zoxan1111 – :
Stunning stuff. There are no words for this fragrance. It was an emotional experience for me on first sniff. A darker take on rose, and more animalic by far, than the edp, which is fruity and jammy and reminds me of Pierre Cardin’s discontinued Rose. Is it earthy? Check. Floral? Somewhat, though the rose here is cloaked in mosses and woods and leather, bringing you back down to earthy. In the far dry down (which lasts for days, and I do mean days as in 24 hour blocks of time) it spins along on the axis near other favorite roses like Knowing, La Perla, and Coriandre, but it gets there via its own unbeaten path, and I imagine that, like Onda, it’s that rare fragrance that truly should be tested first. If you like this kind of thing, Rozy Voile is this kind of thing like no other.
nod – :
Now, we’re talking! This completely moves in masterpieces territories in my book. The funny aspect is that I’m generally neither a fan of rose nor of honey (which both play quite a relevant role here) but, again, Vero’s take on the main theme is indeed one of a kind. She takes a very classic theme and completely turns it into her very own take giving birth to one of those fragrances that will surely live a trace in modern perfumery. Seriously.
Inspiration here is Anna Magnani, her imperfections, her disarming charme, her fragility, her strength, her peculiar features that made of her one of the most loved and talented actress ever. In order to fully appreciate Rozy Voile D’Extrait, you have to be fine with beauty achieved through imperfections as opposed to pretty (and boring) features. With daring choices, with unconventional solutions. Don’t get me wrong, Rozy VdE is NOT a difficult fragrance but, given its depth and complexity, it surely can be appreciated on several levels.
The opening is one of the best things happened to perfumery in a while. Cassis and an almost camphorous tuberose. Seriously, WOW! The fragrance starts evolving by introducing a mix of spices and rose while a dry sandalwood note starts lurking in the back together with honey. In this phase, I get distant echoes of other perfumery pillars (at one point I thought I was catching a kinship with Knize Ten but I’m pretty sure it will probably be just me). With that said, the fragrance still feels incredibly unique and cultured as opposed to safe and stereotypical. In this context, it doesn’t smell french, it doesn’t smell middle-eastern…it simply smell like something only Vero Kern could deliver.
Honey takes over together with other moderately sweet elements (vanilla? sandalwood?) while a subtle dose of styrax provides smoky facets. The drydown is basically endless with continuous kaleidoscopic effects involving all the ingredients into play. It goes from dry and smoky, to sweetish and velvety via woody and obviously…Rozy.
Rozy is an act of love, a tribute and a gift from one of the most passionate and talented perfumers around. In 2014, I hardly can see fragrance going any better than Rozy and, believe me, either you will agree or not, I’m being 100% sincere here. Now, I’m seriously wondering how long it will still take to officially declare Vero Kern as probably the most valid *tout-court* artist in modern perfumery.
All of my love and support.
Rating: 9/10