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Alexander88 – :
Fragrance Review For Que Sais Je?
Patou
Notes
Peach Hazelnut Honey
Eau de Toilette Splash (Black Box)
Nose
Henri Almeras
Released in 1925, coincidentally on the same day as Guerlain Shalimar in the same event in Paris, the Exposition of Decorative Arts (Art Deco) Que Sais-Je? along with the aforementioned Shalimar and F. Millot Crepe de Chine, was a modern innovation in perfumery. While Shalimar needs no further discussion, and Crepe de Chine was a modern aldehyde formulated in a lab with specific lighting and temperature, Que Sais Je (What do I know?) is a gourmand! Yes quite possibly the first gourmand fragrance consisting of such tasty notes as peach hazelnut and honey.
The notes are edible things and it was rare to find a fragrance that had hazelnut and honey prominent in the formula, much less a big peach juice. My black box from the good people at eBay appears to be a reformulation and doesn’t strike me as being authentically vintage from 1925 but it would seem the formula/scent is the same as the original. The box is in the Art Deco motif style which was quite popular in the 1920s. It has been said that this fragrance, which is indeed period-authentic, was made for fashionable brunettes, such as Louise Brooks, and perhaps even Mary Pickford who would have been unable to resist the temptation of sweet honey and peach.
Opens with a sweet peach, or rather a boozy alcoholic peach (peach juice and aldehyde) which bares some resemblance to Femme Rochas long before Femme was ever formulated. But this introductory note is not remarkably similar, though it has that same kind of fruity vibe. The fruit might also consist of other fruit notes which are not as prominent such as a light lemon, swimming within those aldehydes, which are not quite heavy. The peach is so delectable like a nectar, ambrosia, a drink of rejuvenation. Perhaps I’m reading too much into it but I’m so excited about this scent. It’s such a thrill to wear something this old and to imagine what it would have smelled like on other women. This is a toilet water (eau de toilette) so the concentration is not too powerful. It’s like a light fruity hairspray. A hazelnut or almond type of scent emerges and it begins to smell like a good fruitcake topping.
Eventually the fruit (peach apricot nectar) turns into something floral, possibly a white flower of jasmine and or a white rose, but as a floral middle stage the scent is quite soft and subtle, flower petals not entire blossoms. This part of the performance is in the middle after the fruit has settled down. By this point it reminds me of soap. Beautiful sweet soap with the fruit still lingering faintly. This smells like catching whiffs of a peach cobbler or dessert at a restaurant as you pass by other tables. It seems to want to transport you back in time to a fancy turn of the century (1900) restaurant in Paris like the Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon train station. White flowers are on the tables and people are having sweet drinks and desserts. It’s a romantic setting and you begin to fall in love with your date. It’s noon time the middle of the day and this fragrance is perfect for wearing in the day time during spring and summer.
Finally there’s a dry down of beeswax and honey plus musk, possibly a bit of amber. Smells mainly of honey which supports the flowers, and the amber note, with a warm cozy musk that turns into a good clean skin scent. All in all this is a gorgeous gourmand scent. I can just see those 1920’s ladies in the perfume department stores now, enjoying the fruity hairspray scent even before applying hairspray was the ‘thing’ to do. This is a sweet summer time fruit and honey, with delicious aromas of all things that are sweet to eat: hazelnut, honey, peach, fruitcake and flowers.
Que Sais Je toilet water was probably worn with sundresses or longer summer dresses made of soft material like tulle or silk, not the short skirts worn by liberated flappers. Que Sais Je is also quite youthful, girlie for the period that is. A scent for a young rich ingénue or debutante. Think Daisy from The Great Gatsby. It’s been said that Henri Almeras the nose behind this perfume, was creating fragrances for women of particular hair colors. Whether this is true or not I’ll never know. Que Sais Je was made for brunettes though if I had to describe the kind of brown hair color this aroma is suited for I would say that it’s for hazelnut or light brown, sandy, a lighter brown almost blonde hair, not a dark brown or black hair color. Personally I think this perfume might work on any hair color or any skin color. It’s an amazing vintage gourmand. By today’s standards on account of the white florals and musk plus it’s age a very sophisticated and mature fragrance. But I don’t care about such things. This is MY perfume.
I happen to be a natural brunette and so I find this fragrance to be absolutely perfect for me. It’s also reminding me slightly of Lanvin’s Arpege or rather the peach in Arpege which is also a 1920’s day wear perfume for young girls. Arpege is my signature scent so to discover a fragrance from the same era with peach is a treat. I don’t think it would smell any good layered with Arpege because Arpege is a floral aldehyde and this is most definitely a gourmand and the two frags are not at all similar though both were made for young stylish socialite women of the 20’s. Ah what a treasure! Loving it. I’m so happy! Some people with $$ can’t stop buying cars and collect cars for me it’s perfume, including vintage fragrances which are the only way to travel back in time. Going to wear this baby tomorrow during my outing with my niece and sister’s family in the warmth of the early summer.
Woompiseesmap – :
Jean Patou QUE SAIS-JE? [1925; nose: Henri Almeras]. Aldehydic/Fruity/Woody Type.
This classic beauty was released by the house of Patou in 1925, the year of the Arts Decoratifs Exposition in Paris… the arts convention that officially launched the “Art Deco” style (even though Europeans have always called it “Le Style Moderne”, not Art Deco).
QUE SAIS-JE?, which means literally “What do *I* know?”, refers to the dizzy beginning of a romance, when one is not thinking wisely or prudently, but rather with emotional ardor. The scent was originally released as part of a trilogy, each suggested for a different wearer’s haircolor. 🙂 QSJ was recommended for brunettes; AMOUR AMOUR for blondes, and ADIEU SAGESSE for redheads.
QSJ is a sweet, fruity, nutty, woody fragrance. It opens with sweet aldehydes, and a peach/pear fruitiness that smells like a peach brandy or hard pear cider. The floralcy is sweet, yet subdued, somewhat “anonymous”: rose, jasmin and ylang-ylang form a soft, muted cushion designed to spotlight the fruit characteristics. In the heart, the fruit takes on a juicy pear-like deliciousness, slathered in a drippy, indolic honey. Hazelnut confers a nutty warmth, and a delicate herbal accord of French thyme, tarragon, menthol and clove spice up the fruit. The base is a woody accord of cedar, sandalwood, benzoin, a vanilla in its floral guise, musks, and au fond, an unusual, improbable stony/dusty note of myrrh, which anchors and counterbalances the perfume’s essential sweetness.
QSJ? is now long-discontinued and rather difficult to find, though it occasionally crops up on eBay. One must be sure to look for the 1980’s “Ma Collection” re-issue, and take great pains to avoid the monstrous, incorrect bastardization it received upon re-launch in 2014.
Highly recommended. Respected Swiss perfumer Andy Tauer considers QUE SAIS-JE? to be a classic masterpiece that every perfumer must experience at least once in his/her nose training.
jane.k – :
Que Sais Je? has been on my want list for a long time. After reading about the release of the new version (the reformulation of the reformulation???), I felt that I should find a bottle of the version pictured above (which I am guessing is the recreation from the 1980s), because the description of the new (2014) Que Sais Je? seems to be completely different. I digress. This is the second day that I have been wearing this version (1980s), and I don’t regret my actions at all. To me, it seems that there are many other notes in this fragrance, besides honey, peach and hazelnut. Yesterday, when I first applied this (it’s in edt splash form) I got the realest, most juiciest peach I’ve ever encountered! This peach note was so vivid, I felt like it was going to make my teeth rattle! I wanted to bite my arm, seriously. The honey note gives the peach a lift, but if the hazelnut was there, I didn’t specifically “smell” it, but I suppose a more refined sniffeuse could tell me where it is. I also get the most beautiful, delicate sandalwood incense and smoky leather from this. I had read one of the blog reviews on this version (I will need to find it and post the blog name in a PS) suggesting that there is oakmoss in it, which then made me think “aha! I recognize this effect!” You will think I’m strange, but the heart of this reminds me a bit of Caron’s Nuit de Noel. Que Sais Je? floated around me for about 4-5 hours, and then dried down to a skin scent that smelled very much like the delicate sandalwood incense I remember from the 1960s and 1970s. That drydown will stay on your skin for the rest of the day. I’m thinking that if people want to smell you during this drydown phase, they won’t want to let go of you. It is hard to describe, but the “frequency” of the notes in this fragrance just seem so authentic, and I certainly don’t smell such refined beauty in contemporary perfumes. And that peach! Wow! Que Sais Je also seems (to me) to be one of those essences that has what I like to call a “personality”, in that it shape-shifts. One day certain notes will be featured more than others, the next day, the others will take prominence. Today I am getting the peach-smoky-sandalwood incense, more than that brilliant juicy peach (but I know it will be back, I am not worried). This is marvelous, in whatever mood it is in. This is definitely a piece of perfume history, as well as art. I’m really glad that I took a leap of faith and brought this into my life!
PS: The article on Que Sais Je? that I read is from the blog “Yesterday’s Perfume”, dated October 26,2010. This article is what helped me decide to get this beauty.
PPSS: The more I smell this, the more I think that men could wear this, too. Very nicely, in fact.
miniopcom – :
I bought this at Colonial Drug in Harvard Square 20 years ago and just recently repurchased a sample. Such a vintage smelling perfume, very powdery. I love this!
stif-bord – :
Que Sais Je? At last! I finally found this fragrance that I have been anxious to try. And, yes, I experienced a eureka moment! Purchased a mini bottle at a street fair just outside my apartment in NYC from an elegant Russian woman who possesses a font of knowledge (7 decades to be exact) of perfume wearing history, I was enlightened. Que Sais Je? is one scent of a trilogy with a theme of a love affair and/or it is also believed that the three scents were designed to be worn for: blondes (Que Sais Je?), brunettes (Amour Amour) and redheads (Adieu Sagesse). Some say Que Sais Je? is for blondes others say its for brunettes, nevertheless I chose this one as most believe this is for blondes. Now to the scent.
Que Sais Je?, an elegant and sophisticated 1920’s classic scent with notes of peach, hazelnut and honey. There are flower notes in here but it’s difficult to detect which ones as they are fused together meticulously, a secret blend no doubt. The hazelnut in the heart contributes a nutty flavor and it comes and goes throughout the wear. The peach with it’s creamy consistency is the main focus. The gentleness of honey adds an accent of sweetness but then melts into oblivion as the peach once again resurfaces and then becomes a peachy-nutty powdery dry-down. This is a romantic perfume that’s (quoting Rod Stewart) “a little old fashioned but that’ all right”! As far as a perfume that is similar, I can’t think of one at the moment, however, it does remind me of a favorite Italian wine, Terrazze della Luna, a Pinot Grigio that has a sweet, peachy nutty flavor. A little wine, a great perfume, it’s all good. Longevity on this is longish at a 6-8 hour wear. Mini bottles at a great price are available at out of the way places and on line.
This perfume is just too special to limit just to the blondes of the world as it would wear equally well on beautiful brunettes and ravishing redheads. Who needs typecasting anyway. With that said I’ll go with the other story behind Patou’s creative mind on this collection, a love affair in three parts: Amour Amour (The Beginning) Que Sais Je? (What Do I Know?) and Adieu Sagesse (Good-Bye).
In A Nutshell: Participate in Patou’s innovative program from the past and enjoy the ride!