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konon – :
Xerjoff Pikovaya Dama
With Pikovaya Dama there is more than a homage to a classic work of Russian literature and opera, there is a tribute to the very history of the perfumery itself. Written by Pushkin and transformed into an opera by the Tchaikovsky brothers, The Lady of Spades debuted in 1890, in what may be considered the beginning of the transition to modern perfumery, which would be based on the composition of natural and synthetic and would expand the palette of the perfumer to levels never seen before.
In addition to his contributions to literature and opera Russia played an important role in the contribution of modern perfumery as well. Ernest Beaux, a perfumer who created the foundations of Chanel’s olfactory identity, was Russian and was responsible for the creation of the famous Rallet No 1 in 1913, designed to celebrate the tricentenary of the Romanov dynasty. What few know but what laboratory analyzes reveal is that Rallet No 1 is very similar to one of the greatest classics of Western perfumery, Chanel No 5, which probably indicates that Beaux reused his classic and sophisticated structure and added a dose of modernity with the saturation (intentional or not) of the aldehydes.
Pikovaya Dama joins these two references in celebrating the classical times of Opera and Imperial Russia with the birth of modern perfumery and for that reason its dynamics refers to the classic Chanel No 5, going through a dynamic that balances classic aldehydes, floral and citric notes, a powdery iris touch and a creamy, woody base. However, Xerjoff has found a way to modernize the fragrance by adding a gourmand touch that does not compromise the structure.
I always wondered how Chanel No 5 would work if the brand had the boldness to add a sugary gourmand aspect and in Píkovaya Dama this is answered and is very interesting. By choosing a vanilla gourmand aura with a discreet sugar touch Pikovaya Lady wears the classic aldehyde floral with a velvet gourmand glove. Past the bright aspect of the aldehydes this discreet gourmand touch reveals itself, adding a creaminess that balances the powdery side and which nicely complements the scent of sandalwood from the base after the citrus floral bouquet develops. Pikovaya Dama is a rare case of modern perfume that unifies history and execution without leaving aside the taste of the contemporary consumer. Very interesting!
fil – :
Pure elegance in a bottle. Perfect for any occasion. Smells so fresh yet complex. A lot of $$ but I believe in this case you get what you pay for.
ALI333 – :
I only tested Pikovaya briefly after a long line of paper strips. My poor nose had all but given in, until it smelled this beauty. A scintillating blend of citrus, powder, spice and clean musk. The aldehydes positively sing off the skin with a fizzy, mineralic quality. It smells like the most expensive bar of soap ever. Very delicately blended, you can smell each layer in fine slivers, most notably the sandal and neroli.
If I had money to burn, of course I’d buy this, but alas €600 for a bottle of perfume is an indulgence I cannot entertain.