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Aerohopleneririh – :
Odd Rush is a 2014 release by a new house out of London called Signature Fragrances. Their aim is the pursuit of uniqueness and garnering confidence through the use of an iconic accessory – and what better accessory is there other than perfume?
The notes in Odd Rush (which, for whatever reason, I keep wanting to call “Oud Rush,” even though it smells nothing of oud) are: peach, apricot, black currant, raspberry, mango, coconut and bergamot. Middle notes have mandarin orange, carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, geranium, and lily-of-the-valley. Base notes are vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean, amber, musk and patchouli.
Before I get into the body of the review, let me first emphasize how *pungent* this perfume is – how pungent the entire line of Signature Fragrances is, actually. My mother wore this to work one day – this is a woman who notoriously hates everything other than Lauren by Ralph Lauren, which she has been wearing since she graduated high school forty years ago. This made her swoon. She applied it at 7 in the morning before going to work, and twelve hours later, I could still smell it on her three or four feet away. It has longevity and projection that will tame anything else in your collection. I’m not privy to the information about the essential oil concentration, but if forced under duress to guess, I would say it’s at least a parfum extrait, if not even stronger. It is truly an experience to wear.
What do I get when I smell it? The website describes it as a “spicy, fresh, warm, pungent, complex” scent. I disagree with fresh and spicy, but the other adjectives are a good fit. To me, more than anything else, this is an animalic, musky white floral. The fruity top notes are very ephemeral, so I can’t call this fruity per se (at least not on my skin). The carnation, geranium, and lily-of-the-valley all come together to create an intoxicating white floral accord. It’s all bolstered by a musk-dominant heart and base. The dry down becomes slightly soapy and less pungent, but even here the animalic notes and the musk are still going as strong as ever. I think the pungency and the animalic drive behind the smell might be due to the cassis (black currant), which is notoriously responsible for a faintly urinous note.
While I usually shy away from gender assignations for scent, this is a markedly feminine scent. I say this not to insinuate that men can’t wear it – of course they can and should – but I would certainly say it “leans femme.”
Considering how much you need to apply (i.e., almost none) and the quality of the perfume, the price is very fair. 0.4 oz (12 ml) costs 92.50 English pounds (or around $132 USD). This is fragrance that you should apply with an extremely light touch, almost like an Arabic-style oil. I have a 1-ml sample that I have worn half a dozen times, and I still have 90% of my sample left. If you do the math, that’s 720 applications you can get from a small bottle – a two years’ supply assuming you wear it every single day. A worthy investment indeed.
I get the impression that the perfumer was flirting with perfumes made a century ago – when the art of perfumery was not as moribund as it can sometimes seem today. It’s reminiscent of the great and outrageous Guerlains – Nehema, Vol de Nuit, L’Heure Bleue. This is not to say that Odd Rush smells like an of these. I’m hinting more at a time in perfumery when the scent you wore told a story about you, as opposed to the anonymous, watery eaus scent wearers are seemingly obsessed with today. In fact, there used to be an old saying about Shalimar: “There are three things a lady doesn’t do –smoke, dance the tango, or wear Shalimar.” Odd Rush is that kind of scent when you want to throw caution to the wind and shamelessly assert your love of life and perfume. It’s not for shrinking violets. It’s a shame that this house, so radical in its approach to perfumery, has been overlooked in the American market. I can’t wait to try more.
FriendSierra – :
Appealing fresh, clean floral. Got the sample because it looked like it would be nice for spring, and I wanted to try out this perfume company. They are proud of “ethical sourcing” of their perfumes, something that is becoming more important to me. Read their mission statement on their website – it is very impressive!
The notes did not at all prepare me for the fragrance, because the accord has created something with that uppercrust British elegance. It oddly reminds me of a heavy expensive soap scent, similar in feel to some other British perfumes like Penthaligon’s, but this one seems nicer.
It is as if you just opened a box of upscale detergent and put your nose inside to smell. It’s strong, and smells neat as a pin! The opening has a bit more citrus, and the dry down is the cleanest floral detergent aroma. I am not comparing it to detergent to denigrate it, but to express how amazingly fresh it is on my skin. After a few hours, the sandalwood and spices get stronger as they are heated by skin – a great unisex perfume. I can picture top execs wearing this to keep their immaculate image in hot tailored suits. This is a quality perfume, and you can tell it’s top shelf all the way.
This would be excellent on a hot day in summer to keep you smelling just out of the shower, crisp, and laundered. Wonderful sillage, and longevity is over 8 hours. This is one that gets better and better the longer you wear it!