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janineengberg – :
I tested the £145 for 50mls (urrghh my stomachh,,) bottle at Selfridges only yesterday expecting yet another 1 of those fads ‘retro masculine scents with that 2018 edge’ waiting for me to to wail and hate on. Like – another green-herbal zombie with that arbitrary lick of cognac, oud or rum a-la Penthaligons the deer-man, the dog-head, the stallion-head, the bear-head, etc etc bottles.
Yet on 1st spray; something so different yet familiar, and most important of all, pretty safe and, good-smelling!!
The fragcomm always stuns me; we have the ghastly Musc ‘Cat-pee’ ravaging ravageur kicking up an awful pong of a rabid animal fur-flexing breakdance – yet the community go gagagooo and melt all over it.
Then we have this: a scent a million miles more polite, chic, modern and downright sexy spiced-vanilla oriental.
It is a bit feminine yes, and quite a few will get ‘powder’. But honestly, I get more (and a more offputting one) in DG The One ‘Baby Lotion’ (the cheapy-blue coloured one)
This exudes that post-modern class and hip yet borders on classy, incensy and powdery hits of yesteryear – there’s a very carefree yet feel-good factor about this gem. It’s like Guerlain taking Dior and Chanel to the cleaners saying; this is how you really do it, not some bland aldehyde / powder bombe with a dash of pine cones and rum on top.
So; I did not see the notes then but cloves makes a lot of sense, but they are mellow; I get more a light vanillic-inscene at the start; already imo better than Dior’s Bois d’Argent.
This goes down sweet, cheerful, a touch mysterious oriental (some benzoin resin definitely at the start too for me)
Bois d’argent is annoying airy-piney honey; something puts me off with that one, even nauseates me. This has no honey; it’s more oriental for sure with the benzoin.
It’s nice. I’ll give a generous score, ignoring the price (which I really really shouldn’t becasue we don’t live in a world where CO2 can be converted into banknotes for free yet sadly) – so definitely in the real world, knock 1 or even 2 points off becasue £145 full retail for this is still the stuff of circus acts
A fair warning though; this very unusually has been designed to be a bit top-heavy – the scent does dry down to become a bit too much with the powder, but even here it’s definitely higher-end stuff
I so wish they added their famous Tobacco/hookah note from SDV and more woods in the base; definitely would have scored this 9 if so.
My rating: 8/10
oceasyorern – :
The more I wear this one the more I’m able to appreciate it for what it is. I compare it to attending a play. You take your seat and look at the stage and see the set before any of the actors have come out. There is a bustle in the crowd and a general good feeling and excitement for the show that will begin any moment now. A thick fog slowly rolls in almost unnoticed until it has covered the entire area with the power to hold back time. That is Lui to my nose. The set and atmosphere, not the story, captured. A moment in time that has been paused so that it can be enjoyed for an extended period. A moment extended, wow is there anything sexier than the ability to have that effect inside your own personal scent bubble?
Алексей69 – :
pierreelkhoury, I agree 100%. I blind-bought this and ended up returning it (lesson learned). I got a lot of feminine powder. Not my cup of tea.
YannieLee73 – :
Powder resine and cloves, i find it linear and feminine , the bottle must not be black it has to be pink or pearl white, and the name is a confusion i think they named it lui to balance the feminine juice.
assinstuh – :
This is a very unusual scent. I get mostly clove and benzoin, plus a bit of smoke. The pear listed I cannot detect, but its probably there as a part of the whole. I did not like it in the beginning, but after some wearings I started to like it more and more. With these artistic scents, I need some time to adjust.
Finally, I hope Guerlain read this; how can one of the best parfume houses with such a heritage put such a cheap lightweigt cap on one of their most expencive fragrances? And why? Many cheap designers has better quality caps than this. So everytime Guerlains customers pick up the bottle to apply their high end juice, they need to pick up the cap which has the quality of a cheap chinese plastic toy. Destroying the overall experience for the customers to save a dollar? The bottle is very nice, the sprayer is ok (not good), but because of cap there is no luxury experience of using the fragrance (for comparison like you get from xerjoff). And its not only a story of the cap, it may also be interpreted as a story of their relationship to customers, the way the house is going (as they previous are known for excellent presentations) and greedy economical thinking. Its a shame. And btw the caps on l art et la matiere series has the same, cheap plastic feeling. Have no experience with the other series.
I just dont understand why they do it. In the long run, I think this is just a loosing strategy for all parts and it certainly hurts my image of Guerlain as a brand. The presentation is a part of the overall experience and its particularly important at this price point.
Lucy_fromAD – :
The package is really great, but the scent is not equally mindblowing if you have had a bottle of Cartier La Treizieme Heure XIII.
The opening reminds me of Chanel Sycomore EDP / Lalique Encre Noire a L’Extreme, a dull woody note with annoying Iso E Super nuance. Soon it gets to a unusual stage a la Cartier XIII that mimics the smell of raw Pu’er tea. Think about a more rounded iteration of the Cartier by introducing a stingy touch of benzoin (or even not necessary). That’s it.
Rating: 7.5/10
markiz – :
As a guy that usually prefers floral and/or citrus-centric scents and avoids notes like leather, tobacco and cocoa (Pure Havane is my nemesis), I found this surprisingly enjoyable… almost bottle-worthy, were it not for the outlandish price. I almost scrubbed this after a couple minutes, but I’m glad I didn’t because after the sweeter top notes burn off, you’re left with something that smells like how a watered down fountain Coke tastes (like when there’s a little too much soda water). This is a great transition into the more masculine-leaning oriental/gourmand type of fragrances for somebody like me who usually stays away. The masculine side is presented with great restraint, which I appreciate, since I actively avoid appearing like I’m overcompensating for a lack of manliness. Maybe in a couple years the price will come down and I’ll consider a bottle, but for now, the cost alone is the hold-up on pulling the trigger.
btk656Bessinepome – :
very sweet in the top, powdery, almost aquatic, some sweet floral then in the middle there is a myrrh cola note; in the base it is lots of leather and gets drier with a definite animalic musk and a hint of the Guerlinade vanilla; unusual and unique, not full bottle worthy in the top but the base is much nicer
abrikos – :
Finally got 2 in houses samples of Lui today and it was nothing like I expected. I’d swear it was an Amouage fragrance on first testing. Very unusual, beautifully crafted but not sure how many women will connect with it.
lika121 – :
Now this is funny: after having read some positive reviews about this new creation I bought a sample which I received today.
What a surprise when I opened it and smelled “Voile d’Eté” from 1999.
No wonder people write about this scent having some kind of vintagey feeling. Might have something to do with it having been created by Jean-Paul Guerlain and Mathilde Laurent.
Oh dear, Guerlain never fails to disappoint nowadays.
SaxSlaliAnott – :
One word: eugenol.
And it goes on and on and on… eventually this dominant clove-carnation darkens to a solid and linear benzoin-vanilla as a somehow more manageable camouflage, still… eugenol it is, peeking through this resinous veil. At some point the pear appeared as well, adding more sweetness.
Thank God I was reasonable enough to test it first! And thank God I live in the Middle of Nowhere – not being able to see this gorgeous flacon/presentation in person for I would surely give in and impulsively buy it!
Although I don’t like it enough to buy it, I still think it’s a fine fragrance that will appeal to many Guerlain fans. Also, it has this wonderful presence in a form of finest aura that wafts comfortably around the wearer as a form of lightweight, pure olfactive luxury.
felixio – :
Well godking I’ve a better one for you. Instead of calling others out for asking “silly” questions, how about actually sniffing it out yourself and give an input based on YOUR findings. Cheers
BeRKyT1972 – :
Well godking Lui is French for him and Diego makes a GREAT point. I would review it, but I have not smelled it………..
insider1 – :
I finally got my hands on this and here we go:
To begin with, I will state that this is my first full wearing, and I may feel the need to come back and update.
The first time I sprayed the fragrance was in the store while making the purchase, and the sales associate had just got in the shipment with only one box of LUI. Along with the SA, and a customer at the Guerlain counter(Neiman Marcus, Denver) we were all eager to smell it.
Now don’t get me wrong it smells great, however, I will second the notion that a spray on paper, or a judgement of the top notes does not due this gem any favors.
I will spoil a bit early that I love the fragrance, but did not get the wow first impression I was hoping for from the listed notes, I needed a bit of time with it to understand her(though it is “unisex” and I am a man.)
Please, please everyone, wait for the dry-down. This is where, IMO, the fragrance really expresses itself.
All of the remaining comments are to be read understanding that the entire scent lives relatively within an elbows length to the skin, but ebbs and flows constantly. I am writing this after almost 8 hours of spraying
Breakdown:
In the opening I am enveloped in an almost powder like feeling, which I come to realize is actually more of a fine ashen dust than it is powder like you would get from iris. It most certainly is not that. It is an ashen dusty spice that is giving you textures through your nose. I see here that pear is listed in the top notes, and we’ll get to that, but to start with I feel I am experiencing the mealiness of it as a texture in the ash.
What is beautiful, is that the fragrance keeps hinting that it’s not done yet revealing itself, and this seems to come on quickly so you don’t lose patience.
Next you will get the most beautiful carnation, and for those of you that really like benzoin, I will tell you that the way these two elements play off of each other, is a hint of the magic you will get through the life of the fragrance. It is absolutely gorgeous! That same base, for me, is what revealed the leather, just when I was falling into the softness of the carnation-resin treat…
All of the rest of the notes start pouring in, but in traditional Guerlain fashion, they are all blended so smoothly. A soft leather and deep woods, incense, more ash, now the freshness from the pear, clean musk, back to the spice, and then some vanilla. This scent is awesome!
As I said this was now 8 hours ago, and while it is now a skin scent, when I started writing this, I was reminded to leave the review by the wafts I was still getting of the leathery-carnation-benzoin-incense that was still floating around when walked back in from the cold.
I hope you all like it as much as I do.
topconik – :
This is the kind that wears well on the skin….
paper strips don’t get you the smooth exerience of wearing Lui and how cool the fragrance smells in the air….It just wears sooo well for me…
To each their own but this one is special IMO….man or woman.
FAB9k – :
Why it called L U I if it s UNISEX ???
artem13011998mail.ru – :
I smell pepper and cloves into resins, mostly benzoin. If you could slot the peppery bubblegum of Vitriol d’Oeillet on to a lighter version of Bois d’Armenie – or even Prada Candy – you’d have Lui.
It’s neither too heavy, nor too sweet, but it lasts well, if softly.
It’s one of Guerlain’s better releases this decade, but with the caveat that I find most post-millennium Guerlain both too sweet and often lacking in substance. Lui feels a bit empty and cipher-like, like a beautiful concert hall lacking music. I could wear this every day and not mind it, but I can’t see myself craving this fragrance. If they make a flanker with a bit more going on inside, I’d be just the audience for that.
VIDOK_666 – :
Unisex fragrances have been around since fragrances first appeared, this is Guerlain’s way to cash-in into the “no gender” business going around with the people who say you choose your gender. Very smart marketing by Guerlain but a bit dishonest.
It’s a very average fragrance that doesn’t smell of much and it is sold at an incredibly high price. Avoid.
marsel.74 – :
This is more feminin than masculin scent, light smooth powdery, and ………. nothing exceptional.
Don’t get impressed by the dark color of the bottle, I can see it in white easily.
Doesn’t worth it’s price (160 euros for 50 ml, it’s a joke).
Agent005 – :
The first few minutes are very interesting, but the dry down leaves you with a weaker version of Tabac Rouge.
notis82 – :
A real example of emperor’s new clothes. This just has no guts, no staying power, no projection – if it is a scent that borders between masculine and feminine then wishy-washy should be the byline. Tested for the umpteenth time today at Selfridges and despite two healthy squirts from the assistant and a desperation on my part to detect anything and to try to like it there was barely a note discernible. A bit of weak watery carnation I suppose, something vanilla-ish, benzoin? Two hours later there a very weak skin scent left. For the price that is being charged it is quite ridiculous. I am not asnosmic for any scent or musk that I am aware of and I’ve always been able to discern notes well, much better in fact than a couple of female friends who are also into fragrances. I’m also a hugle Guerlain fan, wearing Habit Rouge, Derby, Arsene Lupin Dandy, Mouchoir de Monsieur, Vetiver, Chamade, Mitsouko, Apres L’Ondée, Eau de Coq and others on a regular basis. I just don’t get this one.
eDgewsgab – :
One of the best scents Ive ever smelled. It is pretty delicate and this burnt pear with clove reminds me Fruit Flambé. I have no words it just reminds me my grandma cooking a cake while we were drinking tea in the wintertime.
maukl – :
If anybody is familiar with the smell of sour plums then this smells exactly just like it, not that it’s bad in anyway but generally that’s the first thing that comes to my mind when i tested this today. I got mostly the cloves and benzoin combo with the vanilla sitting quietly in the background. A unisex scent definitely as it’s neither masculine Nor feminine (why named it LUI then). It’s a good one for me along with santal royal that i bought along with this. Looking forward to getting Arsene lupin voyou next as it smelled nice on paper which the SA let me try.
tomenas – :
read some raving reviews here but then there and then at the perfume counter…I wasn’t impressed… may test again for the love I have for other Guerlain creations but rather hesitantly…
Asdfgh99 – :
This is mostly benzoin and it is not an easy fragrance to instantly take to. It takes a bit of patience and an open mind to appreciate it. The benzoin is of the plastic band aid variety and it is a little off putting at first. Its smoky and sweet but I kept getting the band aid rubbery vibe from it. At the same time, there is nothing like this anywhere and you will def a stand out with this on. Its 100% masculine in my book and not unisex in the least. While it’s really interesting, after a good test run (4 sprays), I think I had my fun with it. Not one of those scents where I have to get a bottle or can see myself wearing all the time. But with the endless flankers and run of the mill scents in an over crowded market, this one stands apart. And for that, I give it a mild thumbs up.
kAmpot – :
A great smoky, woody spicy fragrance. Glad Guerlain is offering options such as this on the market.
oceasyorern – :
I tried this fragrance at the local department store a few weeks. It’s a very comforting scent, and I get notes of vanilla, benzoin, musk and leather.
The vanilla I get in LUI is not the overly-sweet type. It’s the Guerlinade-esque type that is synonymous with many of the house’s fragrance, one that is borderline gourmand and will appeal to every wearer. I also get a hint of benzoin that gives a slight rough edge to the fragrance, as well as a tinge of smoke and cloves to give a spicy twist. After some time, the white leather note comes out, which is reminiscent of that found in Guerlain Habit Rouge.
It’s a very versatile fragrance that I imagine can be worn daily, and is a perfect selection for the office. It doesn’t try to stand out and be unique; instead, it’s one that is comfortable within its own skin, and aptly makes the wearer feel the same too on any day.
vipamir – :
Parte strano in un primo momento,un po’ balsamico,piccante,con chiodi di garofano in primis mescolato con la pera fresca ma cosmetica per nulla naturale o gourmant.
Il territorio è piu maschile che femminile e l’aggiunta di muschio lo trasporta in toelette limpide e pulite e colletti di camicie costose e ben inamidate con ferri da stiro bollenti.
Lo trovo piu adatta di giorno con il bel tempo.
Il sillage sembra deciso ma’ vicino e sulla mia pelle e’ durato a lungo.
Non possiedo nulla di simile,tuttavia rimane un profumo gradevole,di un eleganza semplice,brillante,luminosa e mai offensivo che apprezzo inspirare pero’ ad una certa distanza dal mio naso.
Direi…un moderno deciso in un classico del pulito.
ahime’… non e’ scattata la scintilla.
Bikci2011 – :
I never expected that this one is good. It’s a resurrection of classic Guerlain with modern touch. It has a nuance of Guerlain’s heritage but it does not feel old. Still oriental and spicy but moderate.
Kolu4ka – :
If this is meant as a unisex fragrance, why name it “Him”? Perhaps Ellui would have been a more fitting name.
v.kom – :
A classy l’homme ideal edp? This is a very refined version of L’Homme Ideal EDP. It is very nice. Spicy and balsamic. It is very Guerlain.
Asurasp – :
OOOOOO MMMMMMMM GGGGGGG!
Thierry Wasser & Delphine Jelk are REALLY on a roll right now and easily for me THE power-duo of the fragrance world!!
CHANEL has just launched THE BIGGEST disaster in the history of perfume, so it is with greatest pleasure for me to announce that GUERLAIN is standing proud and loud and going from strength to strength and I AM LOVING IT! (Disclaimer: I am not working for either, nor in this industry)
Beautiful art deco black weirdly shaped bottle that is neither feminine nor masculine (that was obviously the idea).
But gorgeously unusual and daring.
Same goes for the scent that reminds me a bit of warm vanilla rubber a la BVLGARI ‘Black’ which is sadly discontinued.
This one here is the former plus a licorice, musky, peppery twist (the former did not have) and it just feels and smells modern, directional, forward, yet not too alienating and welcomingly warm.
I am totally sold and WANT IT SO SO BAD!
That Coca-Cola note from Roja Dove’s “Enigma” is also a somewhat there, but not too literal, yet more in an abstract French ‘je ne sais quoi’ kind of way.
Verdict: (almost) MODERN MASTERPIECE! 9/10
Wished it had more development and was a bit louder (stronger) but then again, I am a stifler!
LOVE LOVE LOVE GUERLAIN! (hate, hate, hate CHANEL)
harlei – :
Lovely. This feels familiar but oh so special. Warm with the peppery carnation note, lovely vanilla/Tonka vibe, smoky with a birch tar note. This is new to my collection and I’m in love. This is not the generic fruity/floral/oud fodder that is like a tsunami of fragrance. This is a delectable treat, a combination of sexy, familiar, delicate and demure. Divine. ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Настя Примова – :
I just had a chance to try this at the Guerlain Champs Elysees boutique in Paris.
Overall it does remind me strongly of Bois d’Armenie, since both are based on benzoin as a main topic, but Lui feels less “finished” than BDA. Of these two, BDA is for me certainly way more appealing.
Lui is definitely meant to be a skin scent, as confirmed by the sales assistant. And indeed it is. It does not create a cloud of noisy fragrance around the wearer, however it is quite long lasting. I could still clearly smell it around my wrist about 7 hours after the application, which is pretty good if you happen to love the fragrance. If it’s not the case, it has the potential to be annoying, so test well before you buy.
Considering all of the above, the obvious puzzling question arises: why make a poorer version of an existing fragrance that has already justified its existence on the market for many years?
As a Guerlain fan, I can only thank God that the house has so much more to offer, than this strange concoction.
Edit 2/13/18:
Ok, now I get it! This works perfectly for me now in cold/frosty weather. The warm smokiness works its charm, supported by the spicy carnation/clove and everything suddenly makes sense! When I first tried it last August it was on a hot and humid day, and it simply didn’t reach me. But now I ended up buying a bottle…. Go figure!
людмила= – :
LUI smells exactly like papier d’arménie (benzoin) mixed with a creamy carnation note. Very nice, but there is something missing there: on my skin the perfume is close to the skin, too fleeting and somehow the formula seems unfinished. Considering its faults, it is ridiculously expensive. If Guerlain adds a little bit more intensity to the composition, I think it could be a very interesting mainstream release.
darknightes – :
Lui sits very close to my skin, not projecting a whole lot. I detect mainly the carnation, subtle leather, a little smoke, and some vanilla/almondy Guerlinade. I almost feel as though this could be a flanker for L’Hommme Idéal, but there are no cherry notes. Surprisingly, I get a waft of it from time to time and it’s really quite pleasant; kind of like wearing Escentric Molecules 01. It’s there, and then it’s not there. Then it’s back again. Nope, gone again. Wait, there’s more…
I’m still debating how badly I need this. But that bottle…
Okay update: 11/12/2017
I don’t know what was so sheer about my decanted sample, but I splurged on the full bottle and, while it’s not a loud fragrance, it’s certainly distinctive and expressive and I’m seeing less and less in common now with L’Homme Idéal. I still stand by my previous description of a smokey, cherry-almond accord, and you can definitely tell this is in a similar vein of L’Homme Idéal, but it’s a more distant cousin that I originally had imagined, and the development and dry down take different paths. I would say the main distinction is that Lui is a tad spicier and more refined.
Makovei – :
This is interesting, which is a good thing! I like the bottle, like the unisex marketing and the notes are unusual. The deliberate mix of traditional masculine and feminine notes is a great idea. (Slightly odd name for a unisex scent, though…)
On the masculine side there is smoke but it is a smooth, resinous smoke. Far less aggressive than Shalimar, say, which packs a bit of a punch with vanilla, leather and smoke. Lui is softer. And yes, there is carnation but it adds a peppery, slightly soapy note without ever becoming too babershop.
On the feminine side there is pear, and I do smell this but it is not like the synthetic shampoo overdose that has been used in other feminine fragrances recently (I shan’t name anyone – you know who I mean) but it sits with the carnation and clove to give a slightly spiced stewed fruit edge. And the vanilla takes the edge off that smoke.
The overall feel of this is smooth – absolutely wearable by just about anyone but interesting enough to be recognisable. It has moderate sillage and escellent longevity.
I think this is a great mainstream release by Guerlain (something I wondered whether I would ever say again).
slavaskrasino – :
Can’t wait to try this
ELComandante – :
Just test it today at Maison Guerlain Champs-Elysées
What a pure beauty ! Smocky, warm, with a touch of rich and dark vanilla from the Guerlinade…
Absolutely unusual. No age, no gender, timeless… Definitely a masterpiece !
Rka39 – :
@ZoopyGoggins
Sure there are a lot of i…s like this,but at the same time there are people in the company …add friends and family too, beta testers,reviewers,bloggers and so on…If you think of it there are A LOT of guys that are able to get fragrances WAY earlier than every average Joe.From a friend like this i was able to get both Vert des Bois and Vert d’Encens by Tom Ford like 4-4.5 MONTHS before the official release.
briedsAdheste – :
Bashing reviews in 3, 2, 1…
vokin – :
This sounds amazing!