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Sesh – :
This show opens vibrant and zingy. Bergamot and cardamom come out dancing, with a toned down cinnamon also involved, tempering the humid tropical atmosphere with a little spicy warmth. Tangerine and lime are not listed in the official notes, but are definitely discernible to my nose, with the tangerine making a particularly good partner for the cinnamon. It’s a lush and steamy opening for the first 30 minutes that rolls out as quite the rowdy summer carnival.
With the sun going down, lime and tangerine quickly leave the party. Bergamot and cardamom will stick around some more but it looks like their energies are waning. Rose arrives dressed almost perfectly for what is turning out to be a later session than we initially thought. She’s delicate, unobtrusive, and dances crisp and confidently, neithier too sweet nor too brash. It’s an aquatic kind of petal that she has. Even better, patchouli quietly enters the fray and something deeper begins to creep. It’s deliciously earthy, but a reward you get only if you go looking. Amber begins to lend a slightly more ‘classic’ vibe to the composition, which until now has been super contemporary. At this point, the whole is pretty lovely it must be said. The sweet and sour dynamic is fading along with the bergamot, and it’s getting deeper and dryer. Excellent. Is that beautiful thing myrrh? I can’t quite tell because I’m distracted by the Cardamom which is proving to have more stamina than expected, and this isn’t great, because by now it’s losing precision. It takes on a mildly ‘cokey’ vibe and it jars with the deeper more serious mood that’s building. It takes only one fool to ruin a dancefloor. I try to focus on that wonderful rose, hoping someone will tell the raggedy cardamom to go home.
After some time it appears my luck is in, because the myrrh begins to amp-up and its proving too much for the cardamom. After all that tropical heat this is so refreshingly dry. I never thought I’d describe myrrh as refreshing, but it’s exactly that. Amber is there just when you need it keeping the standards high, not missing the beat, and I think it must be geranium (unexpectedly at this stage) that works with the amber to give a lovely serious touch reminiscent of some fine Piguet’s. The volume levels have decreased quite a lot now. Oud is a latecomer but it’s got very good manners and fits in perfectly. It offers texture to the wide and smooth myrrh and doesn’t give the impression it will ever get bossy or out of control.
Rose-cardamom take turns with amber-myrrh-oud for an enjoyable mid section. It’s pretty good. But for me the dryness doesn’t quite get to the level I would have loved. It never really loses its sweetness (which some will enjoy), and by the time sandalwood and labdanum get in on things its feeling sweeter again. Where’s that earthy patchouli gone? It barely got going.
The depth and lingering darkness of the exciting mid section eases out rater quickly to a straight up rose-oud reminiscent of Penhaligon’s Oud de Nil, though set apart by that touch of sweetness that persists. Its a feminine finish.
Final remarks: This is a rather dynamic one that displays two very different characters. Lively, zingy opening, followed by a deeper and smoother mid phase. Surprisingly, it’s cardamom that offers the seamless thread between the two, and impacts on the whole with greatest consistency. It leans feminine (with its sweetness and that lovely rose) but some guys could wear this no problem. Those who want a toned down oud fragrance that is more exciting than much of the current expressions on the market might do well with this.