Description
The house of Dior has rightfully held one of the first places in the world of perfumes for years. Dior’s collection Les Creations de Monsieur Dior introduced in 2009 represents a review of vintage editions. The collection includes 5 perfumes – 5 classic fragrances favorized by many women worldwide.
Diorella, Dioressence, Diorissimo, Eau Fraiche Forever and Ever make the five fragrances of the Les Creations de Monsieur Dior collection, presented as timeless opus of Dior which resists time and new trends.
Dioressence is a classic, sharp chypre from 1979 composed of aldehydes, fruit, bergamot, orange, patchouli and green notes in the beginning. Its development brings a floral heart of violet, tuberose, jasmine, carnation, rose, geranium, lily of the valley and ylang ylang, with a hint of cinnamon and powdery iris root. A base continues with patchouli combined with vanilla, galbanum, musk, moss, styrax and vetiver.
The new edition Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Dioressence EDT is concentrated on geranium from Egypt, cinnamon from Ceylon and patchouli from Indonesia as carriers of the composition. Available as 50 and 100ml edt.
deniux1230 – :
Dior’s official site calls this an oriental, but it is identified as a chypre floral in Fragrantica. Whatever the classification, I am very impressed. The modern Dioressence is spicy, green and powdery. Hard to believe that only three notes create such a wonder. It reminds me very much of Chanel’s No.19 Poudre, which I prefer, but if you enjoy 19, I can recommend Dioressence to you.
PS: This might be a modern interpretation, but when I wear it I feel as though I could time travel to Paris in the 1940’s, don a fabulous, heavy silk dress in the New Look style, and no one would ever know I was an imposter.
skorp82 – :
I got an amazing deal on this version! I don’t have any experience with the original, but I LOVE vintage scents/chypres! (Vintage smelling, or reformulated even) So I blind bought this. My bottle has a 2011 batch code.
This is MASCULINE. But… for someone who loves Miss Dior EDT, Bandit, and Intimate by Revlon- I still see how this is old fashioned femininity. However, in today’s age/market/times– this is def masculine. But I still love it.
Spicy earth. Some greens/moss. Then powder. All put together flawlessly and SMOOTHLY. Ahhhhh. I can detect the cinnamon, even more-so the next morning. This has excellent SOFT Sillage- but I was very heavy handed with my sprays. Also soft lasting power until the next day on clothing. You will be able to smell yourself, but it’s not cloying or overpowering. The patchouli blends flawlessly and isn’t detectable except in the form of earthy-spice. It IS A chypre, but I wouldn’t call this sharp. There is “bite” to it at first, but it’s really smooth and well blended. After 1-2 hours of the spicy dirt, there is something a TINY bit sweet within the powder. That bit of powder/sweetness (now I’m saying this is 2% sweet. This is not a SWEET scent) makes this not completely masculine. Very 1960’s/70s female.
There is nothing like this IMO. Love this. It’s dry, yet warm.
I’m familiar with Dior reforms and how they compare to originals (sucky). I have original Hypnotic Poison and the remake. So I can only imagine what the real Dioressense was like. But I won’t seek it out. This satisfies. However, the potency is kinda tragic when you compare to Dior’s HEAVY hitters like Poison (I have the current Poison EDT and that is still super strong/killer) and original HP. I used about 4 sprays of Dioressence on my skin/chest, and 4 more on my shirt. If I did that with Poison I’d pass out. If I did that with original HP… I’d be happy but no one would want to be around me. *wink*
But that isn’t to say Dioressence isn’t quality. You can be heavy handed and be in a wonderful cloud of soft soothing scent for 12+ hours. I also have the 2014 (recent) Dior Addict and that is still my MOST Potent scent. So Dior– you can still do massive potency in your reforms! The reform of DA also has “three” notes, but you can tell Addict is much more. I certainly don’t think only 3 notes went into Dioressence.
I kinda agree with “Eos” review, except her review to ME is a GOOD THING. Haha. Dirty earth moss with floral powder and cinnamon. And it’s good. I adore this punch to the face. 😉
I wore Dioressence on a “balmy” Spring Michigan day. Meaning, it was about 30-40 degrees F. Haha. I think this would be divine in summer because of the dry spice. We’ll see!! Summer should be here…. in about 3 months. Haha.
masterboy – :
dioressence green juice
thoughts:
perfumy of an older generation – nothing like the sweet or florals of ‘today’
fruity woody powdery
fresh powdery with a sherbet edge
spicey soft but fresh spicey
not light
soap clean fruity
i would have to try this on the skin, years ago i would have been very caughtious about spraying this on. Now i would give it a go
lakeev_a – :
I bought my full bottle after trying it several times in several shops. I have also original Dioressence and I can notice a difference between them. First I must say I like both of them. Les Creations is more modern and more appropriate to wear into an office, some way more easy-going. But the older version is gorgeous it is much fuller, deeper, and stronger. I wear it when I want to be visible among a lot of people and I don´t care what they think. But I wouldn´t wear it to work where I am in an office with another 5 people. For this purpose I bought a new version which is more modest and appropriate. This way I can enjoy both versions.
acermegg – :
Oh dear. I paid a lot of money to buy this new because this was the perfume I always saved my babysitting money for in the 80’s. I remember taking my hard earned money into Buffums and buying a bottle every so often.
This new version has lost the “umph!” that made it smell so delicious and dangerous in the 80’s! Now it is just way too sweet without the mesmerizing spiciness it needs. Why do they have to change such a good thing, sigh….
witec – :
The description above says this is a chypre, but it is surely an oriental with some green notes. The oriental side of this perfume is dry – dry as in sec or brut, not the opposite of wet. There isn’t an atom of sweetness in this scent, which means it stands out among the masses of variations on caramel and other sweet notes that are so popular at the moment. Pairing dry spiciness with green notes is sheer genius. The green notes lift the whole composition. To me, the impact is almost androgynous. It is distinctive, quite lovely, sophisticated and very, very chic.
Many of us who contribute to this site have read Perfumes by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, and they don’t rate the modern formulation of Dioressence. I will take their word on the wondrousness of vintage Dioressence, but the current version still smells pretty good to me!
Deapapaby – :
Oh wow, a stunner and a keeper. Definitely on my list for next buys.
Even though it’s quite pungent I think it is so herbal that it could be worn in the summer.
Feels like there are more notes than the three listed. I sense oakmoss. It develops fast in an earthy, spicy, herbal patchouli of which I’m very fond of. Cinammon seems to be a nice pair for patchouli, maybe because the spicyness?; in fact cinammon only enhances the patch. I can’t speak for geranium, for I’m not acquainted yet with its special floral aroma, so I cannot tell how heavy on the geranium it really is.
But for patch lovers this is amazing! Beautiful alone and layered with other scents. Projects very well and lasts quite enough for an EDT. Well done Dior!
A yes from me
asdfgfggrgkuymhkj – :
THIS is what I have been searching for. All the years I have been looking for a scent that enters the room before I do, without being cloying. It’s unique, clean, fresh, spicy, carnation and cinnamon. It’s delicious. Yes, there will always be a place for the generic perfume – light and floral, inoffensive and instantly palatable. But, for those who dare; for those who want to be more than just generic – there is Dioressence. I love this. I love the sandalwood, the soapiness, the spice, the sexiness. This is my new secret.
Kostop – :
I have both the vintage Edt and this one. I realize the difference, but you know what? It’s still gorgeous! Slightly more modern and has a creamy soap element. less fizzy than the original. Still very much in line with that dioressence feel. This one also reminds me a lot of Miss Dior Original. The first few minutes aren’t as enjoyable as the original Dioressence, but the middle notes are heavenly. Don’t let the bad reviews deter you. Give it a try! You might find this one to be just as lovely and maybe even easier to wear in this modern world of sweet patchoulis and floral woody musks! I seriously can’t get enough of this scent.
gidravlik200 – :
I thought I had reviewed this but I guess not. I understand what madonnatella’s saying about this beauty. I’ve had both versions, this one did not disappoint. In my mind I call it Dior-elegant, as it comes off as classy to the first degree. The geranium is refined with a subtle undertone of cinnamon. On me, it’s gives a soft red aura, meant for a black tie affair, jeans and pristine white tee, or that perfect lbd. It’s sumptuous for fall or cold winter days, or spring or summer for the special occasion, with nice longevity. The heavy gorgeous bottle is almost as impressive as the juice. To me, this one is hoard-worthy.
iljich – :
today i am “wearing” the new reformulated “dioressence” and it is smashing. it develops as the time walks further,further and further. there are a myriad of notes detectable despite the simplified “perfume-pyramid” as shown above. i am old enough to have smelled the old “dioressence” and i find as little of a difference as i neither usually find with all the other reformulated perfumes. perhaps with the exception of guerlains mitsouko. persons never mention WHY these perfumes had to be reformulated but it has to do with the regulations of the IFRA to diminish: painful extraction methods of raw material from animals already on the brink of extinction (civet,musk,beaverexcretion); the vanishings of costly but also biologically and ecologically important vegetal matter and so on. i DO NOT have however the slightest understanding of humane allergologic factors also taken in as indication why certain ingredients have to be banned. (Go stand overthere,then.) but the zoological and botanical desiderata i understand and if you’re human you can only affirm this. i am a great perfume lover since,say,1974,so i did smell all the old versions of a heap of classics. and they were fabulous. but for the n.th time: there is nothing wrong with THIS NEW CREATION (nor several other reformulations) it is as complex and sophisticated as any other high-end,even nichiste,perfume.
here are two pretentious premisses playing:
niche perfumery is da real one;
the old perfumes are destroyed by reformulations.
no.
all the parfumistas have become anosmic snobs.
this dioressence is as complex,evolving,rich,more than a mere “canelle” note,flowery (after a while i can detect rose,jasmine,geranium,ylang ylang,iris),an aldehyde mossy perfume and i am enjoying every SECOND of it.
fenixra – :
I do not regard compliments as a “guide” for an evaluation of the perfume quality or consider them important for the appreciation of it of course, but 4 impressive compliments and it wasn’t even noon yet, made me think that there is a slight chance (and possibly hope) that people got finally bored by the candy-pastry perfume gendre (which I do not like at all) that is present in public these days and started to estimate a classic chypre instead…just an idea…that actually brought a big smile on my face.
It really was a Dioressence morning today. A cloudy and grey-ish with the scent of the upcoming rain mixed with the flowery spring air…a perfect set since I think Les Creations in fact develops best in autumn as it settles to a very comforting scent due to a woody undertone. It opens as a fresh, spicy and aromatic bloom but it is not a complex perfume. Just a beautiful, sophisticated scent with a very good sillage when you feel like in a mood for a change. I was drinking my morning coffee and a waitress asked me if I could write down for her the name of the perfume I was wearing since she liked it very much. So it would be very nice to come up with different names for completely different reformulations and reviews of vintage editions because it would save me the trouble of explaining all this mess and that would, as the matter of fact, give a fresh start for a completely different perfume instead of the continuous comparisons between two different scents as well. I recall vaguely a vintage Dioressence since my mother’s friend wore it, but this certainly refers to plenty of the original/reformulated versions. Don’t you think?
shikimiri – :
Alors c’est très simple :
au début c’est de la cannelle
au milieu c’est de la cannelle
à la fin c’est de la cannelle…..
De la cannelle ! De la canelle ! Rien que de la cannelle !!!
Si ils avaient voulu faire une tarte à la cannelle ils ne s’y seraient pas pris autrement !!!
Du parfum ambré “barbare” en 1979 on en est venu à une tarte à la cannelle !!!
Rien d’oriental !! Mais alors rien !!
Ils ont totalement détruit un parfum mythique de la fin des années 70 chez LVMH !!
Par souci marketing de vouloir ratisser large ils ont ruiné le Dioressence de mon enfance dont je me faisais un bonheur de le sentir sur ma tante passionnée des parfums Dior !
Ils ont appauvrit la pyramide olfactive en la simplifiant ! Ils ont pris des matières “cheap” ! Et pour couronner le tout ils vendent cela une fortune (+ de 90 € le flacon 100 ml). Je suis furieuse !!!
DEN5785 – :
I just got the vintage miniature. I felt a bit, it was king of interesting and soapy. I wont try it, because I want the ful bottle. But i keep staring at the pyramid of the vintage and at the THREE things in the content now! How can Dior change such a complicated and probably sophisticated parfume in such a simple one? c´mon three things? I dont need to be a perfumista for that. well i need to hurry up and try the new version, so i can tell the difference.
oleg1978 – :
This re-invented version of Dioressence is a linear, uncomplicated pseudo-chypre. It has a hefty dose of patchouli and a dense cloud of synthetic moss that clashes with a brash spice note. The effect is green and heavy, about as subtle as a punch to the face. The longevity and projection is better than average. Seek out the vintage esprit d’parfum for a true Dioressence experience.
zebroid – :
The les creations version really smells quite a bit like Givenchy III – more than it does Dioressence. Bizarre, but not bad. Honestly, I enjoy all the “Les Creations” fragrances except for Diorissimo. Diorella isn’t as good as it used to be, but it’s still a brilliant fragrance to have around today.
Rust2002 – :
Love your review originaldeftom!! I’m thinking about getting some of this. You compared it to two of my favorite fragrances, Cristalle and Chanel #19. I think this one may be for me!!
lexx1231 – :
This latest version reminds me of Habit Rouge. As plusher, lusher, feminine version of reformulated late 2000s Habit Rouge.
I’m quite disgusted at what has happened to Dior. I know Dior cannot buy back their old formulations from their current owners, and have to approximate… But bottle changes, name changes, formulation changes… Same has happened with Eau Sauvage which I cannot wear anymore–or justify the exorbitant cost for something that last 10 minutes with a bang that used to linger for 10 hours with wafts and whispers.
Dior: settle on this bottle design, improve your formulations. Hell, move all your fragrances to this bottle (much more practical than the Poisons bottles), up the concentration (WTF, 3 hrs out of a fragrance that use to pulse for 10 and linger much longer) and you’ll get your loyal, profitable customer base back.
CruittePaurge – :
This is like the essential oil I have been looking for years. The oil is from Bath and Body works, called sandalwood rose essential oil. The dry down notes of Dioressence just smell like that. Woody aromatic, heavenly.
dolar1979 – :
I believe, even some Dior employees must have lost trace of all the perfumes, reformulations, changes of names and bottles that the house’s perfumes have suffered during the last years.
Sad, and it shows a certain lack of good taste to put it elegantly. 🙂
I didn’t have the privilege to smell the original version or any other afterwards, but this one is delightful, memorable, charismatic!
It is a fine perfume to wear all day. Everywhere!
Do try it, there is some “old fashion” vibe about it that makes it more interesting than “passe'” and I like so much!
One of the best Diors ever, well done monsieur Robert!
An advice: much like Estee Lauder’s “Private Collection”, this is a perfume today’s men can safely wear!
Lolimena – :
One of my all time favourites. This does a lot for me. When I first tried it at the department store, it put me in a good mood all day. I thought – I have to have this! This is a refreshing, summer fragrance with a real pick me up feel that is both comforting and stylish at the same time. It’s great for a rainy day too. It’s just so versatile. It is a sophisticated scent and is unisex in nature. The oriental chypre is a nice blend for when the occasion is daytime or evening when you don’t want a blast of an overpowering cloy. On my skin, the dry down leans towards mossy and patchouli and it’s heady and heavenly to the senses. It’s classic, sophisticated, alluring and sensual all at the same time. I imagine it being best suited to a woman in her 30’s who is sensual but ladylike, sophisticated and in charge of herself.
sergeikirichok – :
tried this scent today (05.16.12) at Saks and it is very, very nice. It is a wonderful, sophisticated fragrance. I love it, but it reminds me in the dry down of Tom Ford’s Arabian Wood. Although I love Dioressence, I have to say I prefer Arabian Wood.
I still may purchase this fragrance. I wonder if this is what inspired Tom Ford..ha…I must be dreaming because Tom Ford does not need inspiration, right? Mr. Ford would not admit to that.
I think it did heeheehee.
FriendGavin – :
Originally bought it for my mom (she is a 72 y.o. opera diva) but she has mellowed out so much that she no longer wants to wear BIIIG perfumes.
I think DIORESSENCE is an all-time classic and is so unique and stylish. Very hard to compare to anything else. Simply outstanding and unparalleled.
There are only 2 fragrances that I would position somewhat related: CHANEL “Cristalle” although much lighter, cooler and fresher, it also has this incredibly green, ‘broken stems’ quality. The other one is CHANEL “19” Coco’s last creation before she passed in 1971, a very poudery, soapy, aldehydic green floral.
“Dioressence” is all that and more: deeper, more sophisticated, more profound, richer, warmer, a really weird, yet interesting mix of instantly pleasant floral notes, juxtaposed in between animalic musc, synthetic aldehydes, pungent peppery green notes, it is just so intriguing and different from that commercial stuff you get out there these days. I also find a rich and earthy quality to this: is that the chypre element? That green, mossy, earthy, wet feel?
I often compare perfumes with music. Majority of today’s music productions are auto-tuned, quick studio productions with massive marketing effort to sell a weak, short-lived product with zero longevity.
Most fragrances today are similar in nature as they are churned out too quickly, often endorsed by a celebrity or fashion brand.
This is different: if this was a piece of music, it would be a big opera or a live concert of some massive vocal talent: Adele might smell like this!!
Think YSL’s “Opium” but not that oriental, but a “shouting green” that turns into a “cooing, oozing, purring vanilla, creamy, spicy, woody, cashmere sweater by the fireplace”.
I think the best season to wear this is autumn or any cooler part of year, when you need comfort and reassurance and demand respect from your environment.
This is a very grown-up concotion, only suitable for a sophisticated and self-confident person: MALE or FEMALE. This is UNISEX.
tixexcept – :
Every time I use this perfume I like it more, it’s grassy & warm, a bit spicy. it’s enveloping and cosy. perfect for a dull day in London.
I’m sure it has more notes that the three listed, it’s like the perfumerers these days like to keep them under wraps…
kit0133 – :
I regret I can’t compare this to the original, haven’t tried it yet.
Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Dioressence is a simple chypre. Direct, assertive, ruling. So charismatic!
I like it, but I’m afraid chypre lovers may be disappointed with its simplicity and its being so linear.
Doesn’t change in time, big sillage and amazing staying power.
Барсик 1201 – :
I have seen this today in two different shops at Brent Cross shopping centre, north London (july 2011). I think it smells fabulous & intend to pop back soon to get some!
tritochki_3 – :
Was this already sold out? I couldn’t find it anywhere, and I tried many shops, which did have the other Creations de monsieur Dior (Eau fraiche and Forever and ever), but not this.